The Gorge bouldering

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The Gorge

There are quite a few good problems in the Gorge at Launceston. Gerry Narkowicz recently identified around sixty problems that start straight off the tourist track on the shady side of the Gorge. The problems described here are based on the list in the back of the Cataract guide. On the other side of the river less than a minute along the zig zag track on the sunny side of the gorge there is a semi circular group of boulders. There are around half a dozen vertical and traverse problems here.

The Sunny Side

From Kings Bridge walk up the start of the zig zag track for 1 minute to a semi circular group of boulders.
1.      V0  (Stand)
Far left arete
2.      V0  (Stand)
Corner between aretes
3.      V0  (Stand)
Arete
4.      V5?  (Stand)
Traverse right around the group of boulders, from left to right
5.      V?  (Stand)
Up face
6.      V?  (Stand)
Face left of gap
7.      V4  (SDS)
Face right of gap - don't use crack
8.      V?  (Stand)
Face
9.      V?  (SDS)
Face right of conifer
10.      V?  (Stand)
Right arete

The Shady Side

From Kings Bridge walk along the tourist track. The areas are grouped by the light posts they are near. Each light post is marked with a number such as "LP 5". Problems are described right to left as you come to them.

LP 5

1.      V2  
Wall right of LP5
2.      V2  
From holds left of LP5 go up and left to flat hold.
3.      V1  (SDS)
Arete to stand on head high hold
4.      V2  (SDS)
Sitstart on underclings and traverse left to wide crack
5.      V3  (Stand)
Continue traversing across thin wall to next crack
6.      V3  (Stand)
From the next arete to the left traverse leftwards to ledge

Heckle Area

About 30m down the track is a little roof with an offwidth to the right. This is the Heckle area.
1.      V4  
From offwidth traverse rightwards across face to corner.
2.      V3  
Pull up on jug on arete to stand on jug, don't use crack
3. Heckle Traverse     V5  
Start 4m left of the arete on good edges. Traverse rightwards around the arete to the crack and finish as for number 1.
4.      V3  
From holds 2m left of the arete climb up seam to high jug
5.      V3  
From the holds at the start of the Heckle Traverse, go left past corner to another blank corner

LP 9

1.      V4  
From ledge left of arete traverse rightwards to arete and across face
1.      V3  
Up face to sloper
2.      V?  
Up arete without using crack
3.      V2/3  
Traverse leftward from one arete to the next
4.      V5  
Blank corner to the left, near LP 10. Climb until "you get too scared".

LP 12

1.      V2  
Rising hand traverse near LP 12
2.      V1  
Arete near LP 12 without using crack
3.      V4  
Up overhanging face without using big holds to the left

LP 14

1.      V4/5  
Sloping traverse from right arete to corner near LP14
2.      V2  
Traverse rightwards from LP15 to corner
     V4  
Climb around detached boulder near LP16

LP 17

1.      V1  
Short arete to the left of LP17
2.      V2  
5m to the left, climb face off park bench
3.      V3  
Right hand start to arete
4. Henry Barber's Arete     V3/4  (Highball)
Only use the arete
5.      V3  
Layback up left side of arete

LP 23

1.      V2  
Face and mantle right of LP23
2.      V3  
Traverse rightward along slopes

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