South Sister
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Acknowledgement | by Ashley Mason, originally published in Craglets. | ||||||
Introduction | Situated at the eastern end of the Nicholas Range, above St. Mary's lies South Sister, a beautiful rocky peak rising to 832m, with transmission masts and fire tower on top. Typical dolerite crags abound the mountain offering some excellent climbs, with a strong emphasis on cranking cracks, as well as some varied routes. The rock is generally sound, and existing routes are clean, but care should still be taken of loose rock. All routes are naturally protected, so a full rack including hexs and cams is necessary. As the crags face different directions the decision where to climb may depend on: weather conditions, time of year, and time of day. West facing crags are best in summer, especially afternoons, whereas the eastern facing crags are good any time, especially in winter, when the cold westerlies whistle over the top of the mountain and the rock is bathed in winter sun, it is generally dry, though not recommended during an easterly. The crags have a friendly atmosphere, are a great place to perfect your jamming skills and are a good training ground for longer routes, as many cracks are single pitch yet sustained. On a clear day, views of the east coast from Freycinet to Flinders Islands, The Fingal Valley and the mountains of the North East can be gained. The flora, fauna, geology, etc. are fascinating, but that's another story, enjoy this magical place and stay safe. | ||||||
History | To my knowledge, South Sister was first visited by climbers in 1984 when the party R McMahon, G Narkowicz, D Kearnes, & H Mohler etc. led some excellent lines on the largest east facing buttress; Canyon Buttress. The mountain may have received visits after this initial period, but its climbing potential was rediscovered in Autumn 1995 by myself, P Wines & P Witton, accessing new crags, cleaning cracks, and putting up new routes. Many undescribed lines and problems have been top-roped, due to lack of placements or too hard. | ||||||
Access | Access from St.Marys is via Gardiners Creek Rd (past the hospital), turn right at the crossroads (left is back to highway), up and along Top Marshes Rd for about 3km, and turn left up to South Sister lookout. All outcrops are described in an anticlockwise direction around the mountain, from the main track, and climbs from left to right. From the end of the road, follow the main track. The first outcrop up to the right is "Carpark Buttress", leave the track when level with it (cairn). For information and any new routes climbed, please contact me to keep up to date. A Mason, St Marys, Post Office. 7215. Ph. 63722334. (or, temporarily, on 63725440) (e-mail rambleon4me@yahoo.com.au) |
Fat Jam 10m 19 Climb thin corner and face to ledge, to gain offwidth arm jam (crux). TR A.Mason,1997.
Sheavinos 10m 16 Up steep face using twin cracks to gain ledge, lay back corner to top. P.Wines, Dec/96.
There are some good top rope problems on the rock below, inc. a small pinnicle. Up and around is another compact wall with several lines.
Problem One 9m 18 2m from corner, a small triangular ledgr in niche is gained delicately, contiue straight up. A.Mason (TR as no placements), Jul/96.
This area is best accessed from the last lefthand bend on the road. Follow a small track contouring north, passing some small outcrops, until you reach a larger crag about 5mins away. This is the beginning of Caramel Slice Buttress.
Stay Sharp 11m 15 Grunt up the offwidth using the sharp arête. No pro. TR Ash & Plonky, 1995.
5m down on a large ledge next to a big white gum is a clean face.
5m down on a large ledge next to a big white gum is a clean face.
Exit Stage Three 25m 17 Climb the face/thin crack on left hand side to under cling, to first stage, up middle of face, step left to gain offwidth crack on arete, a balancy move, but becomes easier towards the top. A beaut. Belay, same as Caramel Slice. P.Wines, Jul/95.
Caramel Slice 25m 16 Ascend face to undercling, layback and straight up to horizontal break. Step right, onto sharp edge, gain the wide crack with difficulty and continue to the top. A harder/bolder varient is to go left from the sharp edge, onto face and straight up. A Mason, May/95.
Ramble On 20m 18 Climb the blind crack on the right side of face to horizontal break. Move delicately up face on finger flakes, (2RPs) to top left corner. A.Mason, Mar/97.
10m further on is another clean face with a large flake going half way up. The left side has been top roped.
Turn the Page 18m 19 This is the first bolted climb at South Sister area. The line of bolts left of Science Circus and to the right of the big gully. 7 bolts up an arête to the rap point. N Selby, A Mason 13/7/2003.
Science Circus 22m 15 Layback the right-hand edge of the flake to the slabby face. Move up tending right to crack, then step right and up face to finish. Classic. A.Mason, Jul/96.
Gritstone Roots 22m 18 Start 1m to right of chimney using small square undercling, move delicately up face to spike runner, accend slab to 2nd spike runner and contiue easily to top. A bit run-out! A.Mason, Jul/97.
Judgment Over the Dead 24m 22 At the lowest point a steep, slightly overhanging face is broken by a thin crack, layback this on finger tips (crux), continue up crack and face to top. G.Narkowicz, 1984.
All Most 27 18m 20 First line of bolts right of J.O.T.D. 8 bolts to rap point. N Selby, A Mason 6/9/2003.
The Grand Final Addition 18m 22 Start as for All most 27 then head right up to the same rap point. N Selby, A Mason 27/9/2003.
Slice of Life 15m 26 At the right side of the cliff climb the sharp overhanging arête by ludicrous barn-door lay-backing to DBB. Nick Hancock Apr 04.
Walk in a northerly direction, gradually accending until large twin buttress. The first line is on the left of the southern buttress.
Wide Open 18m 21 A delicate face climb, finishing up the righthand crack. Sparse protection. R.McMahon, 1984.
Small Beers and Thin Books 22m 19 Bridge the twin finger cracks, contiue to top. Classic. G.Narkowicz, 1984.
The Way We Were 22m 17 Climb corner, then bridge between wide and thin cracks to top of piller, continue to top. R.McMahon, 1984.
Leather Joyboys 22m 23 Follow the thin crack on small holds and fingerlocks (awaits a 2nd accent). G.Narkowicz, 1984.
Knee Deep in Gore 22m 20 From the grassy ledge, follow the hand crack directly to top. G.Narkowicz, 1984.
Sizzling Snags 25m 18 Start at low point, climb arête tending rightwards and on to big ledge (belay). Step up and left (crux) on small holds, becoming easier towards top. R.McMahon, 1984.
Just Slipped In 22m 17 Bridge between crack and offwidth edge on face holds to horizontal break, Follow crack to top. A.Mason, Feb/01.
Emptiness, Eagles, & Snow 18m 20 Beaut layback/finger crack, becoming offwidth (crux). G.Narkowicz, 1984.
There is one more decent buttress on this side of the mountain. Walk in a westerly direction for about 10mins. This characteristic lump of dolerite offers some excellent fingerlicking cracks, all have been top roped, but only one has been led.
Absent Friends 16m 18 The furthest crack on the right. Climb to horizontal break on good holds, then hand jam to top. A.Mason, Oct/97.
From here you can walk up, tending rightwards to the ridge, to find Dogwood Buttress, or access it from the last building on the main ridge, heading west, but stay on the northern side, about 5mins to top from building. This is a small buttress facing south with two clean crack lines, both have been top roped and would go at about 21 and 22 respectively.
Archaeopteryx 20m 23 Start near the base of Aging Dinosaur but follow the bolts up into the headwall right of it. Ashley Mason Apr 2005.
Ice Age 20m 24 7Þ The beautiful bolted arête at the right end of this face. The top 5m is climbed to the left of the arête. Norm Selby 2005.
The Pinnacle is a large isolated buttress on the southern side of the mountain below Dinosaur Buttress. Access by scrambling down beside Dinosaur Buttress, or abseil from Dinosaur Buttress and scramble across 5m below the top of the pinnacle towards the RHS is a ledge from which to abseil. 25m directly below this ledge are twin jam cracks starting from a small ledge halfway up the cliff. All routes start from this ledge as the bottom half of the cliff is vegetated, but the top 25m are spearing crack-lines.
No Condemnation 25m 22 The thin jam crack on the L below the abseil line. Gerry Narkowicz and Ashley Mason. April 2004
Not So Squeaky 25m 22 The precise, strenuous thin handcrack on the R below the abseil line with a small roof at half height. Gerry Narkowicz, Ashley Mason, Andrew Martin. 9/12/04.
Squeak Is My Hero 25m 19 The next crack to the R, beginning as a finger crack leading to a neat hand-crack through a roof. Belay on ledge, and then lead short easy chimney to finish. Gerry Narkowicz, Ashley Mason. Andrew Martin. 9/12/04.
To access this cliff, walk up the main track to the last building on the ridge. Walk down left hand gully and bear left to walk out on top of buttress. Abseil, or walk down. From the lowest point, the left hand crack system is:
The Ho Chi Min Trail 45m 17 Start at left side, climb up to first ledge. Climb crack using pocket on left to gain next ledge, and continue up left crack to third ledge. Follow wide crack to top. P.Wines, Oct/96.
Tin Pan Alley 45m 18 A few meters right is a thin crack, step up 1m and layback to reach lip on left and mantelshelf, and up to ledge. Delicately climb slab and up grove becoming easier, to large ledge. Follow crack above to top. A.Mason, Oct/96.
This is an outcrop on the eastern end of the Nicholas Range. The main crags face north, about halfway along is:
