Sisters Beach
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Acknowledgement | by Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets 6. Updated by Tony McKenny, with acknowledgements to previous work by John Fisher. | ||||||
Introduction | The main cliffs at Sisters Beach at the east end of the Rocky Cape National Park are well worth visiting. The cliff area is small but the quality of the quartzite rock and routes is superb. There are two main cliffs, close together but quite different in character and in the style of climbing. The north facing Fly Buttress is short, solid and bristling with horizontal roofs, while the Corruption Wall on the other side of Breakneck Point is formed by steep or gently overhanging walls. The proximity to the sea does also mean that the smooth quartzite can get more than a little slippery, adding a further charge of excitement to the climbing. The nearby beach, however, is excellent - a good diversion from cranking when your tips are raw or your ego in danger of being compromised. | ||||||
History | Briefly, the history of climbing here began when locals Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams and Tony McKenny cleaned up most of the traditional lines, with Deka demonstrating the art of flying from Super Fly in particular. This route is possibly one of the biggest adrenalin charges for its grade in the state and is a must do for every visitor. Other contributors included Mick Ling, Robert (Bird) Hamilton, Hobartian Sam Edwards and interstate visitor Robert Staszewski. In the early nineties John Fisher scruffed the scene and produced a series of steep, hard and 'interestingly' named sports climbs on Corruption Wall. Unfortunately the anchors placed by John became badly corroded within a year of so of their placement and had to be replaced. Local Andrew Arnold has now fully rebolted the climbs in question; and all the climbs, on both cliffs, now have a DBB at the top. The trad routes are still there of course, although a couple have been retro-bolted (a trend that hopefully will not continue!). | ||||||
Access | From the Sisters Beach township drive eastwards along the dirt road that runs parallel to the beach. This ends after about 1.5 km at a parking area (GPS SIS000). Start by following the signposted track for about 100m, then bear off to the L where a rough track leads around towards the cliffs (about 500m). The first cliff, Fly Buttress, faces out to sea while Corruption Wall, out of sight on the other side of the spur is running down to Breakneck Point, is best reached via a small notch, the Keyhole, on the R about 50m before Fly Buttress. Scramble through (with difficulty!) and bear R and down to the end of the cliff.
There is no legal camping at Sisters Beach although several possible sites exist. The camp ground at Boat Harbour is quite good but is about 10 km away. |
GPS |
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Nose Route 15m 20 Line just L of the nose of the buttress. Strenuous. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 29/4/81.
The topo basically says it all. Pretty much all the routes were done by Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Tony McKenny and Nick Williams in the late seventies. The notable exceptions are Robert Staszewski's ascent of Sunshine (23) and Sam Edwards' Wuss 'n' Boots (22). All climbs now have a DBB at the top, and there is a somewhat dodgy looking (but now superfluous) abseil chain above Superfly as well.
5. Superfly (the Movie) 17 Up the groove/crack below the middle of the big roof, then follow R line through roof. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.
7. Sunshine 23 Through roofs to R. Originally led on gear, but now sporting a couple of bolts on the first roof. Robert Stazsewski, Tony McKenny.
8. Pigs Can Fly 19 Next crack, going L at top and finishing beside Sunshine. Nick Williams and Tony McKenny (originally with one point of aid), FFA: Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 1980.
To find The Keyhole … as you walk into the crag, Bass Strait is on your L (ie walking east). You can approach Corruption Wall (Dogs Coif etc) by following a path with the rock on your R (Sunshine etc) and the sea on your L and going "up and over" to get to the cave.
Alternatively, when you approach the main block you can veer R and walk up to what is called the Keyhole. It consists of a short ramp up to a large chock stone with a human-sized passage that lets you through to the east side of the crag. From there you take a L (keeping the rock face on your L) and a short walk back down to the overhanging midden cave (Dogs Coif again). There are two climbs on the R, just before you enter the Keyhole.
Alternatively, when you approach the main block you can veer R and walk up to what is called the Keyhole. It consists of a short ramp up to a large chock stone with a human-sized passage that lets you through to the east side of the crag. From there you take a L (keeping the rock face on your L) and a short walk back down to the overhanging midden cave (Dogs Coif again). There are two climbs on the R, just before you enter the Keyhole.
Battle on New Years Eve 10m 16 The climb takes the obvious overhanging arête (approx 10m high) on the block to your R as you walk up the ramp to the Keyhole. Natural gear (take a variety of cams - the pro is surprisingly bomber). Andrew Chang, Andrew Arnold
Gap Filler 10m 21 Þ Overhanging thin crack on RH wall of the gully, just before you scramble through the gap in the ridge to Corruption Wall. Subsequently retro-bolted by mistake by Andrew Chang and Andrew Arnold in 2005. Three bolts to DBB. Neale Smith, Mick Ling, Oct. 1982.
Bulging Balls 19 About 30m L of where you scramble through the gap in the ridge is a bulging roof with a triangular wall under it. Hand traverse along the triangular wall until able to pull over the bulge, then straight up the wall above. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 17/4/82.
The small buttress in front of Fly Buttress by the sea, split by a deep gully. The climbs are on the steep walls either side.
Staszewski's Crack 19 Crack splitting wall R of large gully and on the front of the buttress. Robert Staszewski, Tony McKenny 1981.
Easy Ramp Route 10 Easy ramp on RH side of buttress. Robert Hamilton, Nic Deka, Neale Smith 12/4/82.
This was briefly a centre for Tasmanian sport climbing (yeah, I know, doesn't say much does it?). The routes added by John Fisher are brilliant - and user friendly too. Fixed hangers are de rigueur and all routes have rap anchors at the top. You can also walk off down a steep gully to the R (N) of the cliff, by "A Butcher's Dog".
Carnal Knowledge 14 From an ascending grassy ramp, follow a clean cut lay-back crack. Bear R at the top. Robert Hamilton.
Roll on Responsibility 24 Sustained overhanging crack up wall to R of Fourplay. A local test piece. Nic Deka, Neale Smith 1987.
Sister Superior 20m 24 Þ Climb the steep wall just right of Roll on Responsibility, on good holds. 4 bolts to DBB.
Nick Hancock and Andrew Geeves. Nov, 2006.
Nick Hancock and Andrew Geeves. Nov, 2006.
The Purple Veined Junket Pumper 25 Þ Start near The Winking Sausage. The crux is between the second and third bolts but the pump continues all the way to the top. John Fisher, 1992.
1. The Winking Sausage 24 Þ Another pumper. Use a #2 friend on the way to the first bolt. Another #2 can be used after the third bolt. John Fisher, 1992.
2. Rhythm Rude Girl 22 Þ Yes this one is pumpy too. A cammer can be placed in a horizontal break before the first bolt. John Fisher, 1992.
4. Happy Hooker 15 Follow the thin crack in the wall right of The Rapist then traverse right to join the top crack of Nubile Nymph. Mick Ling.
5. Lazy Lob 19 Þ Steep and cranky. Four bolts plus a few cammers in horizontal breaks. John Fisher, 1992.
6. The Crimson Tipped Crumpet Plunger 25 Þ Tweekier than the other hard routes here but not as steep. Take a few small cammers for the easy ground at the top. John Fisher, 1992
10. The Slit 14 The right wall, with many horizontal joints, is split by a deep groove. Follow this to the tree. Neal Smith.
11. Condom Power 15 6Þ Great climbing on the wall L of the Dog Wall. Now an excellent beginners clip-up. Six bolts and DBB. Retro-bolted by John (Hilti-man) Fisher. Yes, I know, it was a very naughty thing to do. He deserves a jolly good spanking. Tony (condom power) McKenny.
2. Dog's Knob 26 Þ Way steep. A magnificent line. The climb was originally bolted by Simon Mentz who then didn't have time to work it. Use a nut below the first bolt. John Fisher, 1992.
3. The Butcher's Dog 25 Þ The RH line. Another steep test-piece from the dude with the Hilti. John Fisher, 1992.
Two lines have been added on the eastern cliffs, on the other side of the valley from Corruption Wall, and there is probably scope for more in the area if you are willing to walk.
Metamorphosis 15 Steep crack and small roof on the largest face of this cliff. Tony McKenny, Nick Williams.
From the west end of Sisters Beach, scramble north west from the boat ramp for ten minutes, passing some slabby smooth sections, to a squat semi-detached pinnacle about 20 metres high, with a very overhanging northwest face.
Cape Crusader 20m 23 Þ Climb steeply on great holds and solid rock to a rest beneath a horizontal roof. Swing out madly to a flared jam and up to a DBB on the very lip of the roof. 6 bolts. Nick Hancock and Andrew Geeves. Nov, 2006.
Take the track from the carpark at the west end of Sisters Beach, signposted to Lee-Archer Cave and Anniversary Bay
Necropolis 35m 17 Starting just to the R of the cave, climb to the bush at about 5m. Continue directly up the centre of the slightly overhung, diamond shaped face on okay pro in less than okay rock. A sloping ramp in an exposed position leads rather scarily to a bush at top. M. and H. Jackson, Dec. 1992.
