Sheffield bouldering

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Sheffield

The Badgers Ranges (Far South)

The Badgers Ranges is about a 20 minute drive south from Devonport and 2 to 3 minutes north from Sheffield itself. If you are coming from Launceston it is quicker to turn off the highway at Elizabeth town and drive to Sheffield that way. When you arrive at Sheffield turn north into High Street and onto Nook Rd, continue north for about 3 km and then right onto a gravel Rd. After about 250 metres you will arrive at a parking area on the right. Walk up hill following obvious vehicle track through disused gravel pits for about 200 metres. Look out for orange tape on your right which signals the start of the old Kimberly's lookout track, follow track uphill until pink tape and cairn are reached on your right and simply follow the pink tags. The first boulder you will arrive at is Slab Boulder. The area was developed by the author of this guide Gary Burgess. It should take about 15 minutes to walk from the car park to the boulders (you can see the area from the vehicle track).
The boulders are conglomerate and the holds can be quite sharp and loose. The problems have not received a lot of traffic. It has quite a few easy to moderate problems and some harder ones. Generally the landings are ok but there are some with very bad landings. Also some problems are quite high. If you are visiting this area in warmer weather be aware of snakes as they are surprisingly plentiful in the area. The author/developer of these problems has limited experience with the 'V' grading system so treat them as a rough guide only. No stars are given to avoid controversy. Bouldering/climbing is an inherently dangerous activity. The author of this guide accepts no liability whatsoever including negligence, for any injury or damage caused to climbers/boulderers, third parties or property arising from the use of this guide. The author does not accept responsibility for any errors, inaccuracies, omissions or incorrect information.

Slab Boulder

1. Central     VE  (SDS)
Not a brilliant problem but treat it with respect as it is higher than it looks.

Face Boulder West

Located directly above Slab Boulder.
1. Crutch Rot     V1  (SDS)
Overhanging start to big holds then onto slab.
2. Bitter Sweet      V2  (SDS)
Slightly harder start.
3. Boober      V0  (SDS)
Ok, easy.

Face Boulder South

1. Eye Ball      VE  (SDS)
Easy.
2. Sloper     V1  (SDS)
Interesting sloping holds in top half, nice warm up. No cheating on the start.

Flip Boulder

Directly above and to the right of Face Boulder.
1. Edge      V1  (SDS)
Lay off outside edge.
2. Flip      V1  (SDS)
Watch the top
2a. Flipper      V1  (SDS)
Up Flip then traverse out along crack. Slightly easier than Flip.
On the South side of Face Boulder.

Orange Face

Overhanging boulder left and up hill from Flip boulder.
1. Loot      V0  (Stand)
Up left side.
2. Scoot      V4  (Stand)
Will make you think, bit sharp.
3. Hoot      V4  (Stand)
Bit more straight forward than previous problem.
4. Boot     V2  (Stand)
5. Wet Glass      V0  (Stand)
Straight forward enough.
6. Swing      V1  (SDS)
Straight forward traverse?

Trash Heap

Slightly up hill and right of Orange Face.
1. Trash      VE  (Stand)
Straight forward easy problem on good big holds.

The Cube Lower Tier

Just south of Flip boulder.
1. Demon      V3  (SDS)
Difficult.
1a. Rise      V3  (SDS)
Up Demon then traverse right using obvious crack for hands.
2. Hades      V2  (Stand)
Possible sit start also.

The Cube Upper Tier

Directly above Cube lower on prominent ledge.
1.      V?  (Stand)
Project

The Cube Right Side

All these problems are quite high.
1. Defying Gravity      V4  (Highball, Stand)
Start in gap between large flat block on ground and the main wall. Easy to mantle at ledge at half height. Then quite sketchy to the top. Watch out for loose holds. Highball.
2.      V?  (Highball, Stand)
Project - Highball
3.      V?  (Highball, Stand)
Project - Up the outside edge. Highball

The Twin Boulder Left Side

Just to the right of the Cube Right Side.
1. Valour      V3/4  (Stand)
Up onto main face and into fused crack where difficulty begins. Highball and crap landing.

The Twin Boulder Right Side

Large boulder with overhanging base. Directly to the right of above.
1. Thorn in My Side      V5/6  (Stand)
Hard, thin and sharp. Up to good hold then trend right and up best you can. Possible sit down start.
2.      V5  (Stand)
Hard, overhanging and thin, slightly more to the right than the line suggests. V3 if you cheat by using the prominent block of rock at base!

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