Oatlands bouldering

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Oatlands

Oatlands has been in development since 2001 and is now the best bouldering area in Tasmania. The climbing is on both roofs and faces and is of very high quality. The sandstone is generally quite solid, which is fairly unique for Tasmania. As well as Tasmania's hardest bouldering, Oatlands also has an increasing number of quality moderates.
Oatlands can be found about 1 hours drive north of Hobart up the Midlands Highway, or a bit longer than 1 hour south of Launceston.
Park at the picnic area near Milk Point and walk across the Top Dam to get to the areas.
The Devils Kitchen is the obvious, enormous roof and is clearly visible from the parking area.
To get to the southern areas such as the Yellow Cave and Funky Town it is quicker to park near the bottom dam and walk across it.

Dead Sheep

This is the small cave and wall to the left of the Rumble Cave. It is the furthest left of the caves in the line of cliffs that face the top dam. It has the skeleton of a dead sheep in the right side of the cave. All these problems are sandy and need more cleaning.
1. Fencepost Left     V5  (SDS)
Start at underclings 1m left of the green fence post. Up to crimps and slopey topout.
2. Fencepost Right     V3  (SDS)
Start at big jug 1m right of fence post and dyno up to lip and desperate slopey mantle.
4. The Tomb of the Dead Sheep     V3  (SDS)
Start in the right hand side of the cave just to the left of the dead sheep. Climb out through loose and dirty jugs. Needs more cleaning.
5. Lamb Chops     V2  (SDS)
Start at a jug in the middle of the little arch. Up and left to slopey top out.
6. Mutton Dressed as Lamb     V2  (SDS)
Start as for previous, go right to finish as for Mutton.
6.1.      V3/4  (SDS)
Start as for previous problem, crank straight up to the lip (rather than move right) and do the slopey top out.
7. Mutton     V1  (Stand)
Up face to slopey topout.
8.      V1  (Stand)
Up face to slopey topout

Rumble Cave

This is the first sizable cave that you come to when walking from the top dam. It faces north and is warmer than the other areas.
1. Fire in the Hole     V7  (SDS)
Sitstart on pedestal on left edge of cave and head out right to top out
2. Jake's Problem     V8  (Stand)
Start on the black rock a few metres in from the lip on the left side of the cave, at a bit of a ridge 2m for the very back. Climb out and into Fire in the Hole.
Project -start from right at the back
3.      V?  (SDS)
Project - Start as for no. 1, but continue traversing the lip of the cave rightwards to finish up Flounder.
4. Thriller in Manilla     V6  (SDS)
Left hand start to Rumble in the Jungle. Start off opposing edges in roof.
5. Rumble in the Jungle     V5  (Stand)
Start off flat hold in back of cave, out through jugs to lip and top out
6.      V5  (Stand)
Finish Rumble in the Jungle to the right
1. Bongo in the Congo     V4  (SDS)
Crawl into the back of the cave to the right of the start of Rumble in the Jungle. Climb out through sandy holds in the roof to finish on the starting hold of Rumble in the Jungle. The Rumble linkup goes at V7.
1. Flat Head     V5  (SDS)
Start as for the Flounder sitstart, and traverse the lip leftwards to finish as for Rumble in the Jungle
2. Flounder     V6  (SDS)
Sitstart under lip and climb up on slopers 1m left of corner. The stand start off the big sloper is V3.
3. Yoga     V3  (SDS)
Sitstart up short hanging corner
4.      V5  (SDS)
Start as for yoga, move right on slopers to finish as for Congaline.
5. Congaline of Suckholes     V3  (SDS)
Sitstart about 2m right of corner on crumbly edges
   The Constant Gardener     V2  (SDS)
A few metres right of the previous problem there is a bit of a cave, with a flat hold at the lip. Straight out through the cave to the flat hold, then up the slab.
        V4  (SDS)
Climb the line of holds on the right hand side of the cave, 1m right of the previous problem.
        V6  (SDS)
Project - climb the groove on slopers 1m right of the previous problem
        V0  (SDS)
4m right of previous

Blackberry Jam Wall

This short vertical wall is about 50m to the left of the Devil's Kitchenette and has some OK easy problems.
1. Blackberry Jam     V2  (Stand)
Traverse the featured wall from left to right, without using the top
2.      V0  (SDS)
There are 3 or 4 easy upward problems you can do on this wall

The Devil's Kitchenette

This smaller cave is about 100m to the left of the Devil's Kitchen
     V2  (SDS)
Start about 1.5m left of the fallen block on the far left of the Devil's Kitchenette at a finger slot in under the roof. Move left to lip and up over bulge
     V3  (SDS)
Start as for previous problem but go right to lip, then up and right on jugs
1.      V3  (SDS)
Start about 2m left of The Cheeky Little Devil. Straight up then top out as for Cheeky Little Devil so as to avoid the hollow block
2. The Cheeky Little Devil     V5  (SDS)
Sitstart from low flake, up and right, then back left and topout
3. Kitchen Bitch     V6  (SDS)
From low sitstart climb straight out the largest bit of the roof to a hard mantle top out.
4. 1844     V4  (SDS)
Traverse right to left, keep going around left as far as the rock is dry
5.      V5  (SDS)
Do the 1844 traverse then finish up The Cheeky Little Devil
1. Gremlin     V6  (SDS)

2.      V1  (SDS)
Optional top out to the left
3.      V0  (SDS)

The Devil's Kitchen

This is the huge cave visible from the parking area.

Left Side

The left edge of the cave has some easier warm up problems.
1. Sorted     V2  (SDS)
Traverse juggy rail left to right then top out up right hand groove
2.      V0  (SDS)
Start as for Sorted but straight up. There are a couple of variations on this
3.      V0  (SDS)
Go upward from part way along the rail
4.      V2  (SDS)
Start about 4m right of Sorted at good hold in roof. Campus up to rail and finish straight up left hand groove.
5.      V2  (Stand)
Start on the huge flat hold of the start of Antichrist. Go left to more jugs and finish as for Sorted

The Antichrist Area

1.      V7  (Stand)
Start as for The Antichrist, but go straight out through the roof
2. The Antichrist     V10  (Stand)
Start on the large flat jug and traverse right for about 7m and then out to the lip. FA Sam Edwards
2a.      V?  (SDS)
Project - traverse right to left using the footholds of the Antichrist.
2b. Anti-Problems     V7/9  (Stand)
The Antichrist can be split into two easier problems, split by the large jug in the centre of the traverse. The first half climbs at about V7, and can also be done at a slightly harder grade in reverse. The second half can be done at about V8/9
3. The Gambler     V11/12  (SDS)
Start as for Trident, and instead of throwing to the large slope slap to the crimp 1 foot left instead. Finish out left on lip, FA Kim Robinson
4. Trident     V10  (SDS)
Start in the slot at the back of the cave, climb out to the large slope and jump out right to the lip, FA Kim Robinson
5. Scab Robinson     V9  (Stand)
Big jump out to lip from two crimps, FA Sam Edwards
5a.      V3  (Stand)
Top out from the left hand end of the big ledge. Provides a finish for Trident or Scab Robinson.
6. The Devil's Tongue     V8/9  (Stand)
Hikers problem. Start from crimps and jump out to lip, feet stand on the sandy stuff. FA Kim Robinson
7. The Punisher     V7  (SDS)
Start on the back wall below the finish of Antichrist. Climb into Antichrist, do the dyno to the ledge, then top out up the water streak on the right side of the ledge.

Vanishing Point Area

This is the next section of the cave to the right.
1.      V?  (SDS)
Mega hard project
2.      V6  (SDS)
FA Campbell Godfrey
3.      V3  (Stand)
Jump up to lip and top out up water groove.
4.      V?  (SDS)
Kim's project
5. The Vanishing Point     V13  (Stand)
Start on the flake at the back of the roof, 1m behind the large jug. Out to lip. Originally given V14 but downgraded after a quick repeat. FA Tyson Atwell

Darkside Area

This is the wall above the lip of the cave to the left of the fallen block, and to the right of the finish of Vanishing Point.
1.      V?  (Stand)
Up face from jugs at lip
2.      V1  (Stand)
Up face from jugs at lip
3.      V1  (Stand)
Up face from jugs at lip
4. Marathon     V7  (Hang)
Start as for 2 then traverse the lip to the right, then head up and right ending to the right of the tree.
The following problems are in under the roof on the right hand side of the cave.
1. Healing Hands     V13  (Stand)
FA Sam Edwards
2.      V1  (Stand)
Traverse right to left along rail
3. Darkside     V11  (Stand)
Start at back of cave, jump out to big slope and traverse left, FA Sam Edwards
4. Darkside Remix     V?  (Stand)
Kim's Project - Start about 3m right of Darkside. Move into the crux of Darkside, then keep traversing out left to the lip of the cave and finish up the wall.

Right Side

This is the far right hand side of the cave.
        V2  (Stand)
Start a few metres left of the campus problem, and follow the diagonal line right.
1.      V3  (Stand)
Up from good hold at lip
2.      V?  (Stand)
Project - Up from lip
3.      V?  (SDS)
Sam's project - through roof
4.      V9  (SDS)

5.      V7?  (SDS)
Through far right side of roof

The Fallen Block

This is the large freestanding block that sits in front of the right hand side of the Devil's Kitchen. It is often overgrown with blackberries, you might need to do some gardening to get to the problems.
1. Flat Out     V5  (SDS)
Very low sit start, then up on slopey pockets
1.      V2/3  (SDS)
Start underneath overhang and pull up and over
2.      V0  (Stand)
Slab just right of overhang
3.      VE  (Stand)
Slab
4.      VE  (Stand)
Slab
5.      VE  (Stand)
Slab
6.      V2  (SDS)
Awkward sit start 2m left of Cripple
7. Short and Sweet     V2  (SDS)
Start on the two pockets of Cripple, but pull up and left to the big jug and the top
8. Cripple     V4  (SDS)
Sit start at two pockets on the left edge of the roof. Head out right to the arete and then finish up to the right.
1.      V6/7?  (SDS)
Hard pull off ground from under lip about half way between Cripple and Fallen Angel, then up on slopes.
2. Fallen Angel     V3  (SDS)
Pull up from sloper on lip 2m left of Lucifer
3. Lucifer     V3  (SDS)
Pull up from pocket, starting off block
4.      V3  (SDS)

Highball Wall

This is the high orange vertical wall, which is the next bit of rock to the south of the cave.
1.      V2  (Highball, Stand)
Up the highest part of the wall, watch out for dicey holds, FA Vincent Day, Kim Robinson
4.      V1  (SDS)
Sit start around to the left, under the chossy cave, and traverse leftwards on quite nice rock, to finish up in the corner.

Warm Up Blocks

These angled yellow free standing blocks are about 80m south of the Devil's Kitchen, on the next bit of rock that you come to.
1.      V0-  (Stand)
Easy slabs. There are 3 different slab lines on the left end of the boulder
2.      V3  (SDS)
Sitstart from flake
3. Wedgie     V3  (SDS)
Sit start about 3m left of arete on horizontal break
4.      V4  (SDS)
Start left of arete under roof. Up on good holds about 1m left of arete without using arete after start
5. Getting Warmer     V2  (SDS)
Left to arete then up it
6. Snappy Direct     V3  (SDS)
Start as for Getting Warmer and go up the face to the R of the arete and top out
7. Snappy     V2  (SDS)
Start as for Getting Warmer, go up and right to finish as for Comedy Value
8. Comedy Value     V2  (SDS)
Up thin wall to slopey topout
9.      V?  (Stand)
Project - traverse slopey lip to top
10. Dull Blade     V6  (SDS)
Up thin holds to slopers. Don't use any handholds on Warm Me Up
11. Warm Me Up     V1  (SDS)
Up jugs on right side of block

Backdoor Block

Head up the corridor to the left of the Warm Up Blocks to find this boulder with a distinctive overhanging prow.
1.      V0  (SDS)
Up to the left of the overhang
2. Aphex Twin     V5  (Highball, Stand)
Traverse the thin line rightwards and finish up no 4.
3. Kiche the Curry Dog     V4  (SDS)
Out through roof and top out
4. Backdoor     V3  (Highball, SDS)
Up arete and out through overhanging prow on jugs
5.      V2  (SDS)
Start as for no 4. but go up and right and do the slopey topout
The next boulder problem is on the short arete just opposite Backdoor, on the same chunk of rock as Wedgie (Warm Up Blocks).
6. Spearhead     V3  (SDS)
Start using RH crimp and left arete. A couple of moves gets you to the top jugs. Avoid tree on topout.

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