Monkey's Bum
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Acknowledgement | by Matt Perchard, originally published in Craglets. | ||||||
Introduction | There are only a few routes on this crag but they are real honeys. It is definitely worth at least one visit - the main buttress (composed of orange sandstone) overhangs on every side! A degree of uncertainty exists as to the historical accuracy of the route names and first ascentionists that are quoted here. Several routes from the sixties by the likes of Terry Costigan and John Moore have been omitted due to lack of knowledge. I’m sure this won’t detract from your climbing pleasure - hopefully the best of the routes here have been adequately described. | ||||||
Access | Access to the crag is from the East Derwent Highway. About 5km north from the Bowen Bridge the road crosses a creek just before it sweeps around to the left. Park on the right in the area provided. Go up the valley for about half a kilometre. After a sub-valley is passed on the right, the valley opens to a large, grassy basin. The cliffs are visible from here. |
The Snatch 15m 17 Climb the nose of the main buttress moving slightly left near the top. This is an excellent route to top rope but is not recommended as a lead. Doug Fife, Oct/80.
Poha 15m 20 Start on the right side of the nose of the buttress and climb to the thread on the arête. The climbing steepens from here. Near the top move to the face on the right then finish straight up. Gear exists for leading this route but it looks a tad bold to me. Peter Jackson, May/80.
Gasher 10m 22 The two metre roof. A small wire can supposedly be placed just under the roof. Probably another bold route if leading but definitely good fun on a top rope. Gerry Narkowicz, Jun/82.
The B Got Another One 7m 17 Climb straight up until below the bulge on the left of the face. Clip the bolt, then ascend the arête. Matt Perchard, Aug/91.
