Meehan Range
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Acknowledgement | By Dave Barnes | ||||||
Introduction | I would say that a fair few climbers have eyed off this chunck of Hobart stone over the years. It sits on the crest of a ridge in the Meehan range obvious ahead as you drive east out of town. I would suppose this area has been looked at before but access and the moss-encrusted rock must have turned away earlier parties. There has been no evidence of routes found at the cliff other then these new ones. It is also a hangout for the occasional lost boys, as indicated by some of the rock art.
After extensive cleaning some interesting rock has been brought to life and revealed some great routes. The Hill is a bit like Rocky Tom but much taller. There are enough routes to make a good day out, with a variety to choose from. The Hill has a variety of middle grade, well protected routes - bumbly nirvana, a bit like a sport resort for working climbers. Bolts have been used at the crag and the routes are made to be safe and enjoyable. However, where good protection is available we have utilised those placements. The majority of bolts are rings or fixed brackets but a few bolt brackets will come in handy. All bolts are stainless and are 10mm. Standard bolt brackets fit on those that need them. There is also good opportunity for more routes particularly in the harder range. The crag was hit by the bushfires of 2006, but apparently the bolts survived ok. Some routes may need cleaning however. The crag has some minor walls on each side of the main area. There are also cracks and corners for those among us who do those things. The view of Hobart and surrounds are exceptional adding to your visit. Best time to get the sun is in the mid to late afternoon. Routes are described from L to R of each section. | ||||||
Access | This crag is situated near Mornington. From Hobart heading towards the airport, take the Mornington Exit. Turn R at the intersection, Flagstaff Gully Road, as if heading to Rocky Tom. Just after you come through rock cutting park on R at a fire trail gate. The cliff is the obvious rock on the ridge directly in front of you. Look at the Hill and at the cliff, follow your nose. Through gate up dirt road to second blocked off road to R. Up this to base of hill and beside creek. Walk directly up the steep and loose hill, 20 minutes. You should see some yellow tape to help you find the way on route up the hill.
Alternatively from car and gate, follow the road heading up the hill on the right all the way up the ridge to the top of the range and work your way down from the cliff top. This is a pre-longed climb and takes about 30min. |
The obvious buttress in the centre of the cliffline, when I walk up there from road this is near where I come out.
Climbing With Ants 10m 15 The obvious corner finishing around R of small overhang. Jose Callisaya, David Barnes 5/2/04.
Bergisches Fruhstuck 10m 18 A neat little thing. FH and 1 RB. Tree Belay. Stefan Schorradt, David Barnes 22/08/04.
Faith and Politics 8m 12 The crack on the right hand side. Follow the meandering cracks up the block to the tree belay. David Barnes, 12/11/06.
A reasonable looking cave with big roof and steep wall above. It’s name becomes obvious. 60m R of Middle Earth. DBB. The gully to get to the top of the crag is just L of BDC.
Back on Track 10m 23 A steep thing breaking the roof on its R side. Start at the ‘back door’. The first moves are pumpy and the end is juggy pockets. Good fun. DBB. Jose Callisaya, David Barnes, TR, 5/9/04.
Vizcache 17m 13 The dirty gully come crack with a can embedded in it. Beware of loose rock. Jose Callisaya, David Barnes 5/2/04.
Joshua 15m 17 Named after my son. Start as for V but travel up the cracks on R, SLCD and wires. On approaching ledge sling tree on L then head up staying R into steep corner, BR. Head out R onto nose and follow it up passing two RB’s. You can escape out R but staying on the nose makes it quite good. Tree Belay. David Barnes, Stefan Schorradt, 22/08/04.
Diamond in the Rough 20 19m The shinning star of the crag. A must do. Start in crack. Up passing wire/friend placements to R side of ledge and a cave. Up the R of the cave and onto slab, FH, to guano stain and base of crack proper, 2.5
SLCD. Up crack passing two more FH’s. Tree belay. David Barnes, Jose Callisaya, 16/01/04.
SLCD. Up crack passing two more FH’s. Tree belay. David Barnes, Jose Callisaya, 16/01/04.
Jose’s Climb 20m 22 M0 The obvious open book corner on R of main wall. Layback the cool corner passing two RB’s. Traverse R a bit to rest. Up short steep wall, 3 RB’s to ledge. Avoid the big loose block above and up the crack and wall (gear) on its L side to top. DBB. Jose Callisaya, 12/2/04.
Smoozing 10m 22 A really good and entertaining climb. Stay on L of wall following the line of holds. Consistently tricky climbing. 5 FH’s. Chain. David Barnes, 12/1/07.
Ferral Flinn 16m 17 Start as for HM. Up HM till third RB then trend up steps L to shallow corner, RB. Cool balancey move then motor up passing three more RB’s to DR's. David Barnes, Jose Callisaya, 3/7/05.
Hobartian Martian 16m 16 The RH arete. A tricky start gets you onto the arête, RB. Pass another 2 RB’s and three BR’s. Don’t chicken off left at end, you can slot a medium wire in the bulge. DR's. David Barnes, Jose Callisaya Sam Hardaker, 3/7/05.
Charlotte’s Corner 7m 22 15m R of HM. Considerably harder than it appears. Follow the corner passing two FH’s. Some medium SLCD’s come in handy near end. DBB. It really needs a chain. David Barnes 12/1/07.
Larson’s Self Portrait 12m 15 Brushed line 25m R of CC. Follow the wall with natural placements all the way. Tree Belay. David Barnes, Theo Mapley, 11/06/06.
Gallery
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Meehan range crag.
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Meehan range crag.
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Meehan range crag.
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