Lowdina
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Acknowledgement | by Evan Peacock, originally published in Craglets | ||||||
Introduction | An attractive crag for a winter visitation. Lowdina's appeal lies in its sheltered and comparatively warm aspect and often it is dry here when elsewhere it is wet. With 150 routes of varied grades there is a swag of climbing to be done. Although this cliff makes little impression on the ardent sport enthusiast when viewed from the carpark at the bottom of the hill, there exists here a range of interesting, demanding and worthwhile problems each with their own unique flavour. | ||||||
History | Between the late eighties and early nineties activity at Lowdina was intense. Most of the harder routes were done then; a lot of them by Evan Peacock, Garn Cooper and Al Adams. Martin Stone wrote the original guide in the mid-eighties but it soon became outdated and Evan published an update which forms the basis of this guide. We've also kept Evan's annotation of routes with a symbol (§) to indicate the need for small wires. Don't bother climbing at this cliff if you can't beg, borrow or at least steal some RP's! | ||||||
Access | In the mid nineties access to the cliff was thought to be closed off, however the situation at that time is the same that is currently in existence. From Richmond drive through Campania towards Colebrook. About 4.2km from the Campania Pub and just before the turnoff to Lowdina Rd, check into "Westfield" on the LHS and see the Bevens (62 604286 or 0418 604286) who are the landowners. They are happy for climbers to use their land as long as you sign their indemnity form. You can also download a copy from thesarvo.com and drop it in at Westfield. Turn back onto the main road and then left again into Lowdina Road. Follow the gravel road, parking at the railway line. Cross the train tracks and head up the hill. If you can spot the white-streaked rock then head for this - it's Bismark Buttress and a good landmark from which to get your bearings. Attached at the bottom of the online guide is a copy of indemnity form to be used for Lowdina. |
Scharnhorst Buttress is at the far LH end of the crag immediately before the the hillside turns to the south and into a gully. Beyond the gully the cliff-line peters out.
Scharnhorst 15m 12 About 80m left of a narrow talus slope is the last major buttress. Scharnhorst climbs a groove, that continues up a contoured crack through a small roof. Roughly finishes up the nose of the buttress. Avoid the loose slabs on the left near the top. Karl Prinz, Feb 1975.
Blackheads and Beauty Spots 15m 16 § Start in the alcove 6m right of Scharnhorst, off the top of the pillar. Step across and up to the ledge below the flake. Go up the righthand crack, then move left and up past the righthand edge of the flake, finishing up the crack. Al Adams, Aug 1988.
Drugs on Sunday 12m 16 § Start 8m right of Scharnhorst on the ledge below the brushed slab. Step up for the slope above, continue up to the next sloping ledge, then up the flake to the top. Al Adams, Aug 1988.
Better Get A Bucket 18m 24 § Bold face climbing with a technical finish. Start immediately left of The Spastic Acrobat on the lefthand side of the arête. Climb to the horizontal at 3m (and place gear!) then launch for the bolt (hoping your belayer jumps downhill if you fall off clipping). Finish through the small roof on the left. Evan Peacock, Nov 1991.
The Spastic Acrobat 15m 20 § About 20m right of Scharnhorst is an impressive face split by a horizontal break near the top. Start just right of the obvious crack, and go straight up the face to a small ledge. Continue up on small holds and layaways to the horizontal, then crank through to the finger crack and the top. Al Adams, Aug 1988.
Seagull 15m 10 An isolated pinnacle lies between Vulpecula and Scharnhorst buttresses. Climb the crack that forms a sweeping s-curve up the righthand side of the buttress. Mary McWhirther, Feb 1975.
Vulpecula 30m 11 About 20m left the narrow talus slope and protruding down the hill is the Vulpecula buttress. From the base of the buttress climb the nose past loose flakes to a broad ledge. Scramble on up the blocky ledges then finish up the obvious slab on the lefthand side. Kevin Kiernan, Feb 1975.
Punks and Lepers 22m 22 § About 10m right and uphill of Vulpecula is a face with a horizontal break at 4m. Climb to the break, then up the face to a flared crack (RP's) then up the crack to the top. Al Adams, Nov 1988.
Torque Arm 15m 16 Found on the Anzac Day buttress this route climbs the wall which forms the LHS of the Ape chimney. Gain the corner/groove just off the ground and climb it, passing right of the small roof. Cross left into the groove and climb this until able to move right into the crack and the top. Dave Humphries, Jul 1984.
Ape 20m 10 About 7m left of Anzac Day is a small buttress topped by a prominent 4m flake. Climb the narrow flaring chimney immediately to its left. Chris Viney, Apr 1972.
Anzac Day 20m 18 Not a route for old diggers. Anzac Day is 25m R of the talus slope on a line of buttresses that extend downhill (50m up left of Finn). Start at the base of the LHS of the lowest buttress, climb the slabby face for 5m, and then up the 1m roof via a short crack. Move out R around the roof and up the wall above to the top. Dave Humphries, Jul 1984.
Lejand 12m 15 Start on the LH arête below the roof 2m right of Anzac Day. Climb the arête and crack above, trending to a large ledge. Move left to regain the arête, then up the righthand side of the wall to the top. Jeremy Rackham, Apr 1992.
Mick Goes to Moonah 15m 18 § Thought provoking and delicate. Just left of the amphitheatre between Finn and Anzac Day buttresses is a groove up the nose of a buttress. Follow it to the horizontal break, then continue more easily to the top. Dave Humphries, Jul 1984.
Chook Fever 15m 17 Fist jammers apply within! 2m R of Mick Goes to Moonah is a clean crackline up yellowish rock on the RH side of the buttress. Jam through the bulge and up for 3m, move out right and up the fist crack for 3m, then finish up the corner. Dave Humphries, Jul 1984.
Miss Right Body 20m 16 Worth a sneak look. Start about 3m R of Chook Fever and climb the face, finishing up the first crack. Al Adams, May 1986.
Boys in Bikinis 15m 18 § Probably not a good look! Start 8m right of Chook Fever beneath a roof at 2m. Pull the roof on the lefthand side, then up layaways and back right to a fixed pin above the roof. Finish up the wee bulges above. Al Adams, Jun 1988.
What Bunny Likes Best 15m 22 § The face between Boys in Bikinis and Jot Jot Splat, past a BR and several wires. Contrived in staying out of the aforementioned. Evan Peacock, May 1992.
Jot Jot Splat 15m 15 Start in the recess just R of Boys in Bikinis and bridge? the hand/fist crack that opens up towards the top. Evan Peacock, May 1990.
Finn 25m 8 From Bumble traverse downhill to the base of the next major buttress which forms a series of blocky towers. Start off the block and follow the weakness straight up the nose which steepens at the top. Robert McMahon, 1969.
Bumble 25m 10 From Cromlech go left around the base of the buttress and uphill to where an obvious ledge leads back right towards the nose. Follow the ledge then climb the crack to the ledge above Cromlech. Finish up the broken crack above, or via the nose on the left. Peter Jackson, May 1971.
Tim's Excuses 25m 19 Start just left of Cromlech. Climb the crack with lots of runners, finishing through the small roof (crux). Evan Peacock, Sep 1991.
Cromlech 18m 13 Start a few metres to the left of Tormentil. Climb the chimney which is loose at first and awkward in spots. Robert McMahon, 1969.
Tormentil 15m 9 Traverse left and down from Oisin for 60m to the next buttress system which protrudes down the hill. Right of the base of the buttress is a smooth curving corner crack facing right. Climb it. Peter Jackson, 1969.
Hummer 15m 15 § The face climb 1m right of Tormentil. The runner placement requires some thought but is bomber. Evan Peacock, Sep 1991.
Garage Sale 12m 17 Start about 15m right of Hummer on a slab, just past a roof-capped mini-buttress. Climb the lefthand of the two lines, finishing up the hand crack. Evan Peacock, Sep 1991.
Little Black Balls 12m 11 The line just right of Garage Sale and a good beginners route. Colin Reed, Sep 1991.
Maggot On A Brick 8m 22 The short sheltered face about 30m left of Daytime Delinquents just above The Naughty Bottom Burp. The climb has 2 bolts and three cruxes that get progressively easier. Garn Cooper, May 1991.
The Naughty Bottom Burp 12m 20 § Start about 20m left of Rogering the Rock on a small separate buttress with a clean face line and chockstone filled chimney on the right, and at a sag bush. Climb up to the ledge on the lefthand side and a #2RP, then continue back right to the horizontal break. Climb up the sloping ledge and a knifeblade runner, then up to the top and loose blocks. Evan Peacock, Jun 1990.
Rogering the Rock 20m 20 The result of some rather rigorous cleaning techniques... Start immediately left of Daytime Delinquents on a wide angles orange corner below a roof. Climb the corner past a BR on the right, then trend left to a large ledge, before finishing up the arête. Roger Parkyn, Jun 1990.
Daytime Delinquents 14m 17 § Desperately in need of a brush. About 40m left of Oisin is a separate buttress with a conspicuous roof at 5m. Follow the crack to the roof, through it tentatively and then up the lichenous RH line above. Al Adams, Dec 1984.
Little Squeaky Feet 22m 22 § Proves camalots are better than friends! Start about 15m uphill from Something Scurrilous is a leftward trending RP crackline. Follow this up the overhanging wall, with the infamous camalot placement. Looks and is excellent. Evan Peacock, Dec 1991.
Something Scurrilous 25m 19 § A colourful and action-packed experience. Start 25m left of Oisin and 20m right of Daytime Delinquents, at a prominent buttress with a she-oak at its base. Climb the left side of the face behind the tree to a ledge at 4m. Continue up the central crack and bulge to a stance and BR. Climb the shallow groove to the handcrack (crux) to gain a ledge. Hand traverse under the large block out right then mantle awkwardly to gain it's top. Finish up the thin crack to the top of the pinnacle. Al Adams, Jun 1990.
Mega Smegma 25m 16 Start at the weakness 3m right of Something Scurrilous. Climb the line to the bulge and pull through it on layaways. Continue up the tight handcrack to where it veers right. Continue up using a layaway edge and move left out into the chimney. Continue up the easy chimney and clamber across the void. Al Adams, Jun 1990.
Genetic Junk Yard 25m 16 § Start on the downhill prow of the Catoblepas buttress, on a brushed slab. Climb easily up the slab to the roof, through this (RP runner) and continue easily. Al Adams, Dec 1991.
Catoblepas 20m 14 About 10m left of Oisin is another large buttress. The line starts in a widish crack on the righthand side of the buttress, then trends left onto the eastward facing side. Continue straight up with the crux at the top. Garn Cooper, Oct 1988.
Oisin 20m 11 The flakes on the right should be treated with care, as should the possum. Contour left from Bismark to the third buttress line which protrudes downhill to that level. The buttress rises from an elevated flat platform and has a narrow chimney on its right. From the platform, climb the obvious straight crack to the top. Robert McMahon, 1969.
Mulliners Code 20m 16 A major disappointment once you have done the flake. Climb the crack up the LHS of a flake 3m right of Oisin (of dubious attachment). Either continue up the dirty gully above, or move left and climb the righthand edge of the delicately stacked flakes just right of Oison. Peter Jackson, Jan 1981.
Maelstrom 20m 18 The slightly overhanging problem just right of Mulliner's Code. Climb up into the small sentry box until the line joins the aforementioned then continue up that line. Evan Peacock, Aug 1988.
Ploughman's Launch 20m 18 The line just left of the Alekhine's Defence buttress. Climb the arete on large holds to the horizontal break at 4m and runners. Continue up Mulliner's Code. Evan Peacock, Sep/89.
Gecko 12m 19 § The less ugly variant of the two. The direct start and finish of Alekhine's Defence. Adrian Herington, 1985.
Alekhines Defence 12m 19 § Has sent a few people away empty-handed over the years. The face 5m right of Mulliner's Code. Climb the face trending diagonally left from the bottom righthand corner. Garn Cooper, Oct 1984.
Electric Exercise Bike 15m 18 Beats any workout available at the gym! About 5m left of The Ants Pants is a narrow chimney. Follow the groove up the face 2m right of this. Face climb to the sentry box at half height, then follow the crack to the top. Al Adams, Oct 1984.
Liars and Losers 15m 20 § A quality route, starting at the base of the arête. The LH arête of the Bicycles Don't Fly buttress. Climb to the small roof, reach over for a RP runner before continuing and more RP's. Mantle to a BR, then continue up the arête, before a final step left to a friend pocket and the tree belay. Al Adams, May 1990.
Bicycles Dont Fly 15m 17 § Want a bet? Starts just left of The Ants Pants taking the line through the overlap up the middle of the face. Despite looks, there is good natural protection. Al Adams, Aug 1985.
The Ants Pants 15m 13 The crack up the face of the buttress 5m left of Ferio. Jam the crack to the overhang, then directly to the top. Bob Bull, Apr 1971.
Dont Jolt That Bolt 22m 18 Can be trickier for the not-so-tall. Right of the Ants Pants is a face route equipped with a bolt and monster hanger. Start out right then move to an undercut left, then straight through past the bolt on some choice moves. Al Adams, Sep 1985.
Ferio 12m 17 About 20m uphill to the right of Oisin on the northern corner of the buttress is a clean corner. Layback to a resting spot on the left wall below where the crack narrows. Step right to place pro, then layback until a long reach brings a jug over the back. Finish directly up the steep corner. Peter Jackson, Jan 1971.
Tall Dudes 12m 21 § A mongrel of a start now that a key hold has been pulled off. Takes the line up the right wall of Ferio. Starts in a shallow groove and gains a small ledge. Continue up the lefthand side of the arête to the top. Al Adams, Jun 1988.
Picnic in the Front Room 15m 22 § Follows the incipient crack 3m right and around the corner from Tall Dudes. Follow the fused crack until it ends - the crux in protected with a #0 friend. Step left and finish up Tall Dudes. Evan Peacock, Jan 1990.
Directissimo Man 8m 12 Climbs the nose of the second buttress line which protrudes downhill left of Bismark and about 40m right of Oisin. From the base of the flat rock platform, climb the obvious crack and face holds to the top. Al Adams, Jul 1984.
Fadel V? The boulder problem immediately left of Cryptic Clue (past the chimney). Colleen McCullough, Jun 1990.
Cryptic Clue 10m 22 Another utterly contrived test piece. Uphill in the gully left of Mr Queasy is a blank looking wall broken by a horizontal at about 7m. Climb the face on the lefthand side of the wall using a bolt and a pin for protection - but the lefthand arête is out of bounds! There are two loose blocks at the top, though they are keyed in. Al Adams, Oct 1988.
Anagram 10m 21 The face to the right of Cryptic Clue. Start of the righthand edge, on face moves. Mantle up onto some slopes, stand, place RP's, then follow the incipient crack to the horizontal break. Finish straight up on good face holds. Evan Peacock, Oct 1988.
Ode to a Robotic Arm 15m 19 M1 § Across the small gully right of Anagram is a brushed face with a thin crackline starting at half height. Climb the easy crack to a ledge and a #2RP aid move (or if you have a robotic arm climb it free via a desperately wide pinching layaway - awaiting a FFA). Clip the BR from a small edge, then continue up to a horizontal break and easy ground once the crack is attained. Evan Peacock, Jun 1990.
Toes and Thumbs 12m 13 Start down the notch from Konked Out. Follow the corner/crack system to the ledge and tree. Greg Aimer, 1991.
Mr Queasy 12m 18 Go down the notch mentioned in Konked Out for 5m and on the left is a short handcrack. Belay at the eucalypt and climb the crack to the horizontal break. Surmount the bulge above for a slightly queasy experience, then reach through to a large ledge. Al Adams, Sep 1988.
Konked Out 12m 16 About 5m downhill and left of Zundapp is a notch with a prominent slab on the uphill side. Climb the slab to the ledge, then up the groove and through the bulge on the right. Al Adams, Jul 1988.
Zundapp 20m 18 § About 11m left and downhill of Paunch is an alcove with a dirty chimney up the lefthand side. Start 1m right, and continue up the brushed face with incipient cracks. Continue through the bulge and slab above, to finish up the right side of a small roof which leads to a short corner. Evan Peacock, Jul 1988.
Paunch 10m 12 About 25m left of Stung and across a grass gully is a high buttress with a tree at its base and rounded orange "paunch" at half-height. Climb the crack through the bulges up the righthand side of the buttress. Peter Jackson, Feb 1971.
No Corruption 12m 12 Below Fat and Married lies an isolated buttress. The route takes the obvious crack up the centre. Russ Hinze, 1975-88.
Fat and Married 15m 18 § Lug your lard up this baby! Start at the big ledge that overlooks a grassy gully at the extreme LH end of the Time Warp/Jesus Trousers/Stung buttress. Climb the arête using layaways on the RHS then cross left and continue up the face to the top. Evan Peacock, Aug 1988.
Get Out Oscar 12m 17 § Starts about 4m right of Fat and Married and just right of a chimney. A couple of unprotected but easy moves lead to a crack and bomber RP protection. Continue straight up. Evan Peacock, Oct 1990.
Stung 15m 10 About 5m left of Jesus Trousers is a chimney. Between them is a crack which begins at a flake at half height and finishes at a tree. Climb the right wall to the flake, then finish up the crack. Chris Dawson, Sep 1974.
Jesus Trousers 12m 15 The dead tree obstructing the final move needs to be turfed off! From Wetcheck move uphill to the left and across the gully for 100m to a short face looking directly downhill with a dead She-oak atop. Handjam and bridge up the obvious corner-groove. Phil Steane, Oct 1982.
Time Warp 12m 18 § Quintessential Lowdina face climbing. The thin crack up the face just right of Jesus Trousers. Don't forget to take a selection of small wires (RP's). Step onto the face from the right and up the crack trending left using layaways, face holds and wishful thinking. Pete Steane, Oct 1982. A short variant starts from the base of the buttress, trends right slightly and rejoins the original route. Nat Duhig, Nov 1986.
Perchance to Dream 20m 18 § A highly entertaining move onto the perched block! Located beyond Spazattack buttress about 40m left of Bismark up the hill on the same side. Starts up an unlikely looking face and poised above is a block attached to a gently overhanging arete. Garn Cooper, Dec 1984.
Spazattack 18m 18 § Climbs the big buttress 10m left of Wetcheck, passing the prominent roofs on the left. Just left of a thin right trending crack in the middle of the buttress (Spazattack Direct) is a groove line. Climb this to the horizontal break, then up the grooves above to the top. Garn Cooper, Oct 1984.
Spazattack Direct 18m 23 § Takes the right trending crack in the middle of the Spazattack buttress, then straight up Spazattack. Evan Peacock, Jun 1990.
Drury Line 25m 20 § Once tried many years ago by blockhead, but he gave up after breaking a drill, Tackles the roof right of Spazattack. The route is marked by guano courtesy of the local falcon. Climb the obvious easy face (no pro) to the horizontal break, then up to the first roof and a BR. Trend left to a groove and then straight up. Evan Peacock, Feb 1992.
Being A Pirate 20m 26 The overhanging arête 3m right of Drury Line. A desperate techno-slab, followed by a strenuous journey up the arête around the roof. 4BR's. Evan Peacock, Sep 1992.
Hooter 20m 17 A Jackson classic! From the foot of Wetcheck move left onto the face of the buttress and follow the rising traverse across a thin flake to the horizontal crack and a piton runner. Continue straight up the vertical crackline (crux) to an easy mantle and pleasant crack to the top. Take a brush. Peter Jackson, 1984.
Grasshopper Island 20m 15 § The companion to Hooter. Easier but perhaps more bold, and a typically good Lowdina face route. Takes the righthand line, bristling with runners (except for a 4m runout in the middle section). Evan Peacock, 1992.
Wetcheck 20m 13 About 10m left and uphill from Bismark is a small bay with a couple of chimneys. Left of the chimneys and facing out is a straight crack. Climb it. John Moore, Aug 1970.
Mrs Malaprop 15m 17 § The slab/face in the alcove just right of Wetcheck. Nice moves, but the runners are dubious (all wires). Evan Peacock, Aug 1992.
V8 Donk 25m 18 § Start immediately left of Hood on a ledge about 10m up. Gain the left from the left and climb to the horizontal break. Crux to the small ledge, then follow the #1 RP crack, before a mantle to easier ground. Evan Peacock, Feb 1992.
Hood 30m 16 The original route at Lowdina. Start as for Bismark for 2m, then hand jam left onto the nose. Continue to the base of the wide crack, which is followed for 6m until able to step left onto the face. From the good foothold gain the wide crack above, and continue to the chimney and mantelshelf finish. Michael McHugh, 1968.
Subvert the Dominant Paradigm 25m 15 Follows the crackline 1m left of Bismark. Finish right at the roof (second climbed through at grade 18). Garn Cooper, 1986.
Bismark 25m 15 The landmark for finding everything else here. Look for the conspicuous white bird-poo stain on the large orange coloured buttress in the centre of the crag. The initial 10m of easy rock can be avoided. Up the crack in the prow to the bulge and around it using small holds on the nose. Continue past the small rooves and bridge the chimney to the top. Michael McHugh, 1968.
Doug's Rat Roxanne 15m 22 § Climb the overhanging orange face right and round the arête from Bismark, past 2 BR's. Evan Peacock, Jun/91.
Felix 15m 18 § Steep but on big holds, up the arête between Doug's Rat Roxanne and Motorcycle Mama, past 2 BR's. Evan Peacock, Aug/92.
Motorcycle Mama 15m 11 A typical example of the Lowdina scene. Start of the lefthand wall of a wide gully just left of Illegal Move. Follow the well protected crack (careful of loose rock at the top). Evan Peacock, May/90.
Illegal Move 12m 19 Start immediately right of the Bismark ledge. A bouldery start leads to the crux at 7m (bolt protected). Continue up the finger crack, to finish with a haul over the chockstone. Garn Cooper, Sep/85.
Otto Sausages 12m 18 § A nice climb on RP's just right of Illegal Move. Climb the thin crack to a horizontal break - careful of the hanging block on the left. Evan Peacock, Aug/92.
Bonsai 7m 23/25 § Start up the gully and right of Illegal Move, where a steep orange/gray face stands at the head of the gully, with a native cherry on its right. From the bottom left of the face, climb the obvious line past a #3 RP where the line crosses right and up to a bolt. A small side-pull and long dyno leads to the ledge (or do it statically on the arête at grade 23), then finish easily. Marcel Jackson, Apr/90.
Squark 23m 17 § Named for the falcons who nested near here in the late 80's. Start immediately left around the corner from Ungar. Follow the thin fused crack through the series of ledges - face climb, mantle, face climb, mantle ... finishing up the wide crack. Evan Peacock, Oct/88.
Ungar 25m 17 Refresh your crack technique! About 30m uphill and right of Bismark is a buttress with three distinctive cracklines. Virag is the LH line. Up the wide crack, through the overhang, then continue easily then strenuously through an orange bulge to a foothold. Gain the ledge on the left via a hidden sidepull, then move right onto the nose and on to the top. John Moore, Sep/70.
Plastacine Thylacine 25m 22 § Must be the best looking line at the cliff. Start on the platform 3m left and downhill from Virag, at the base of the bulging face near two trees. Climb the crack in the bulge (couple of #3 RP's which turned like a key), tackle the bulge proper (crux) to a BR, then some slab moves bring the horizontal at the base of the headwall. Straight up this on small wires to another BR, before exiting right to a wide crack which is followed into Virag. Evan Peacock, May/90.
Virag 25m 17 The impressive crack right of Ungar. Climb the initial corner and bridge out onto the jammed block. Up into the wide crack to reach the salvation of a face hold on the LH edge (crux). Follow the shallow corner to the roof, swing left and up to finish. Michael McHugh, Jan/71.
Wolfetone 25m 18 The thin layback corner right of Virag has been known to spit people out indiscriminately. Climb the awkward corner/crack to a difficult exit onto the right wall. Lay off tight fingers and smear gingerly upward to the security of a small stance (crux). Power up the crack and chimney above. Robert McMahon, Nov/69.
A Salted Battery 10m 25 The very steep face route on the back of Wolfetone. Start left of Baby Animals and climb up past 2 BR's (stick clip the first). Good fun! Evan Peacock, Sep/92.
Baby Animals 8m 16 § From Fruitless contour around left for about 20m to some largish boulders and a small face cleaned by rockfall. Climb the crack (small wires), with an interesting crux for short runts. Lucas Bottomley, Apr/91.
Mr Whimpy 14m 16 § From Wolfe Tone move along to the second small buttress just right. Climb straight up the front of the buttress on flakes to the ledge on the right edge. Clip the fixed peg, then move back left onto the face of the summit block and up to finish. Noel Ward, Jul/84.
Fruitless 12m 18 § From Mr Whimpy move right and up the gully for 20m to a roundish buttress opposite Sweetie, with a small yellow roof halfway up. Climb the face of the buttress for 6m to the ledge below the roof, move left round it, then back right to the crack and the top. Garn Cooper, Sep/84.
Old Man's Hands 8m 9 The small handcrack past a bulge about 15m right and up a gully from Fruitless. Start on the lefthand side of the gully just before a huge boulder. Stuart Scott, 1981.
Good O's From Heaven 10m 25 The face immediately left and around the corner from Surprise Surprise and protected with a bolt. Evan Peacock, Mar/90.
Surprise, Surprise 12m 22 Harder than it looks. Uphill and left of Sweetie and behind that buttress is a brushed slab protected by two bolts. The climb is directly opposite Old Mans Hands, across the gully. Climb easily to the first bolt, then move up right to a small scoop. After the second bolt move up to another bolt then the top. Evan Peacock, Nov/89.
Acerb 20m 22 § Move to the lefthand end of the next set of buttresses, right and up of Wolfe Tone, in the middle of the face 2m left of Sweetie. Traverse left to the arête past a BR. Up this to a shallow groove and another BR and the base of a sloping roof. Traverse out right (airy) on underclings to finish up Sweetie. Evan Peacock, Nov/89.
Onklunk 20m 26 § The direct finish to Sweetie, and great climbing in a super location. Start as for Acerb but go right. Clip the first BR of the lip of the roof, then launch out right (technical) to a stance and the second BR. Trend back left and climb up on sidepulls and a tiny foothold (crux) to jugs, to finish up Sweetie. Evan Peacock, May/90.
Sweetie 20m 12 Climbs the wide crack on the right of the buttress whose upper half is split by a thin crack. At the ledge, hand traverse out left along the thin crack to the vertical crack, then follow this. Just below the top, finish up the rib to the right. Peter Jackson, Mar/91.
Nappy Rush V? A hard little boulder problem (top-rope recommended) with a poor landing. Start on the overhanging mini-buttress just left of Yoda. Evan Peacock, May/90.
Yoda 25m 19 § Climbs the obvious thin line up the face just left of Chocolate. Start up this, then move left on the undercling. A thin layaway and mantel lead to the small ledge, then the jug and upper face, finishing up the crack on the left. Peter Jackson, Dec/80.
Yoda Direct Start 25m 21 A technical little start - unprotected, but not such a bad landing. Follow the slab 2m left of the Yoda and Chocolate until it joins the layaway above the undercling (and runners!). Evan Peacock, May/90.
Chocolate 25m 16 About 6m right of Sweetie is an obvious crack with a bulge halfway up and a chimney on its right. Climb the twin-thin cracks, then follow the main crack through the bulge and the ledge. Finish up the side crack. Peter Jackson, Dec/80.
Brittle Little Mothers 16m 20 § Takes the line through the roof to the right of Chocolate. Climb the face under the roof, traverse to the lefthand end and reach up for the BR before the mount. Continue to the horizontal, then up the groove to a bomber RP, finishing on the ledge. Evan Peacock, Dec/89.
Ulysses 25m 16 A few metres left of Chocolate is a small recess with a deep chimney to the right. Climb the wide crack in the left corner, to a grassy exit. Continue up the corner on finger jams, then finish up the awkward bottomless chimney. Mendelt Tilema, Mar/71.
Albatross 30m 23 The obvious overhanging slanting corner-line to the right of the Ulysses gully. Start 6m right of that line, with a layback around the block. Swing around the corner, then mantle and move up to the ledge, past the spike and up to the bottomless crack, which is followed to the top. Ian Lewis, May/75.
A Ginger Cat Ate Rebecca 20m 16 § Start about 15m up the gully right of the Albatross buttress. Climb up to the horizontal break below the roof, then launch up the face (small RP's). Evan Peacock, Aug/92.
Yeti Flakes 25m 17 § Start two sub-buttress right of Albatross on the same contour. Face climb up the thin flake on the lefthand side of the buttress. Gerry Narkowicz, 1981.
Unfinished Symphony 8m 11 Start on the front of the next buttress right of Yeti Flakes, a few metres right of a large recess. Climb up the crack to the ledge. Follow any of the variety of lines up (bounded on the right by a small square-cut pillar). Chris Dawson, Sep/74.
Fingers and Thumbs 15m 13 Finger lock or cedar box! Start at the thin crack splitting the front of the next small buttress right of Unfinished Symphony. Climb the crack on finger jams past the undercut flake, then mantle for the ledge. Traverse right, then finish up the wide crack. Phil Robinson, Jul/76.
Team Pursuit 15m 16 Short and sweet. Starts immediately right of Fingers and Thumbs. Traverse in from the right on thin moves, then up the face for a couple of hard moves that soon relent. Doug Bruce, 1985.
If This Pavement Should Stray Or Rome, Smack It In The Bum, I Love Debra V? The boulder problem up the detached pinnacle on the righthand side of the gully right of Fingers and Thumbs. Garn Cooper, 1986.
Hooning the Block 15m 13 Climbs the arête 10m left of Greenknowe. Start up the face right of the arête, then move onto the arête at the horizontal, finishing straight up. Garn Cooper, 1985.
Sheening With the Dovens 25m 18 § The arête a few metres left of Greenknowe. Poorly protected, improved by using the tree at its base. Garn Cooper, Sep/84.
Greenknowe 15m 12 From Fingers and Thumbs go downhill to a prominent buttress/pillar lower than the rest. A few metres right of its base is a smooth chimney, blocked, and followed by two overhangs. Climb the chimney moving right up the rib to the small corner and top roof. Step left to the nose and around the overhang and the top. Peter Jackson, Nov/69.
Queasonaire 15m 18 § Climb the face 1m right of Greenknowe, with protection at 4m (and after the crux!), to join the aforementioned at its roof. Evan Peacock, Mar/89.
Caged 18m 21 § Start on the Shirvan buttress below the obvious scoop and bulge on the left. Climb to the scoop, step left to the ledge, then hit the bulge directly. Continue up (keeping left of Shirvan) - a fixed pin protects the crux, with pre-placed 20cm sling recommended. Marcel Jackson, Oct/89.
Shirvan 16m 14 § From the middle of the buttress just right of Greenknowe move up on big holds to the ledge on the righthand edge. Step left for protection behind a suspect flake, then finish directly up the middle. Peter Jackson, 1984.
Joyride 10m 15 At the top of Greenknowe is a leaning gum tree. Start behind this and surmount the small bulge, then continue up the face to the top. Al Adams, Nov/87.
Bulging Biceps 12m 18 § Better than a playstation for entertainment! Start 2m across the gully from Rocket Fuel off a chockstone in the gully. Climb up past the BR then up the arête. Al Adams, Nov/87.
Rocket Fuel 15m 15 About 5m left and around the corner from Snoober is a leftward facing flake. Climb it to the ledge with a large block on it, then follow the crack system above to the top. Al Adams, Jul/84.
Snoober 17m 17 § Another Lowdina classic face route! Climb the thin cracks up the face just right of Papillion (protection from small wires which are hard to place). Peter Jackson, Jan/81.
Papillion 15m 11 Further up the hill and right of Greenknowe is an obvious jam crack opposite a flat lunch site. Climb it, through the bulge using cracks on the left. Peter Jackson, May/71.
Middled Aged Crisis 8m 16 The short crack on the small buttress at the top of Papillion. Follow the finger crack, which grows up to offwidth. Dave Drake, 1979.
Canary 20m 15 The line 2m right of Papillion. Climb up to the ledge on the right, then finish up the face above. Lyle Closs, Jul/72.
Bird on a Wire 12m 18 § Start just right of Canary as the buttress turns uphill. Follow the system of thin cracks straight up to the previous climbs overhang. Steve Hamilton, Sep/91.
Sein Zum Tode 12m 20 Climbs the enticing face right of Bird on a Wire. The crux is the first moves although the upper section is a little balancy. The main piece of protection is to be found at the first horizontal. Marcel Jackson (with TR inspection) and Rob Williams 1994?.
Fist 12m 13 Originally the jam crack around the back of the Canary column - now somewhat changed by rockfall. Lyle Close, Jul/72.
Heidelberg Direct 20m 17 Immediately uphill from Fist is a clean corner leading to an offwidth. Climb it, avoiding the worst of the tragedy by traversing from the top of the shaky block around the nose and up on small holds. Continue straight up. Difficult protection. Peter Steane (TR), Feb/84.
Expiry 20m 13 Start about 20m right of Heidelberg Direct on the lefthand side of the second of the two prominent recesses, and opposite Rudge. Climb up the crack for 4m, then traverse left around the awkward bulge and up to the ledge. Surmount the offwidth and chockstone, then climb the large curving flake at the top - careful of rockfall. Aashal Bush, Jun/75.
Lumbar Cruncher 23m 23 Start in the gully immediately left of Rudge at the steep orange wall. Climb the wall (crux), then continue up the thin crack to the overhang. Move left, pull through onto the arête on the jugs. Don't escape left, but traverse back right to finish up the overhanging crack. Note that two small knife blades were used to protect the crux (placed on abseil). A steep, technical and varied route. Marcel Jackson, Mar/90.
Rudge 20m 16 The obvious line on the righthand side of the recess opposite Expiry, with an overhanging jammed block at its base. Climb from the left onto the block, then ascend the wide crack. Move right for a bit, back left for a bit, and finally even up for a bit. Lyle Closs, Oct/73.
The Danger Hog Shuffle 25m 17 There's a trick to it. Climbs the wall immediately right of Rudge. Bridge the shallow corner and clip the bolt. Move leftwards to gain the crack and up this. Martin Walch, Jun86.
Quine 18m 18 A few metres right and uphill from Wee Ratty is a small flat buttress. Climb up easily to the base of the thin crack on the left arête. Follow this up, finishing to the right of the main face. Marcel Jaskson, Oct/89.
Beyond this, low and broken crags continue down and around the hill for 70m or so. After this, the hillside changes direction to face north (from northeast), with a final 30m of cliff.
Beyond this, low and broken crags continue down and around the hill for 70m or so. After this, the hillside changes direction to face north (from northeast), with a final 30m of cliff.
Gilmigrim 10m 13 About 50m right of Wee Ratty is a higher and more prominent buttress, with a tiny square roof at its top. From the front of the buttress, climb the wide crack to the ledge. Continue up the face to the small ledge, then either pull through the roof or step back right and up. Beware of loose blocks. Garn Cooper, Aug/84.
Small Acoustic Dog 8m 21 § Start on the small buttress just left of No Hi Jinx. Climb straight through the roof, with RP's and friends. Colin Reed, Nov/90.
No Hi Jinx 12m 17 § From the base of the corner immediately left of Wailing Wall, climb up to the small ledge to gain the arête, then up this to the top. Al Adams, Aug/84.
Wailing Wall 12m 26 Climbs the "distinctive, large, blank, orange wall" on the last major buttress. Superb and sustained face climbing passing 3 BR's with hangers, and a #3 friend in the final and easy finishing crack. Marcel Jackson, Jan/92.
Argonautica 15m 16 Start just right of Wailing Wall and climb the obvious crack/chimney. Chris Dawson, Oct/74.
Velveteen 7m 6 Climbs the short arête and wall of perfect dolerite about 4m right of Argonautica. A knife blade was placed at the horizontal. Rob Williams and Marcel Jackson, 1994.
| Name | Size | Creator (Last Modifier) | Creation Date | Last Mod Date | Comment | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
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 lowdina sketch map.png |
75 kB | Jon Nermut | Dec 23, 2007 | Dec 23, 2007 | ||
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 LowdinaIndemnityForm.pdf |
96 kB | Jon Nermut | Dec 20, 2007 | Dec 20, 2007 | Lowdina Indemnity Form | |
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lowdina sketch map.pdf |
369 kB | Jon Nermut | Dec 23, 2007 | Dec 23, 2007 |
