Little Bluestone Bay
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Introduction | This section covers the climbs that are accessed by the Little Bluestone Bay track. This area offers some superb routes in a beautiful location. | ||||||
Access | From the Whitewater Wall campsite, walk south for 10 minutes down the rough 4WD track to Little Bluestone Bay. From here follow a rough track south around the coastline, slightly inland. Drop down to your buttress of choice. |
This is the southernmost developed cliff in the area. From the end of the road to Little Bluestone Bay, head uphill to the R (inland), then L to cross a creek bed above First Ramp. From here move southwards towards the coast, walk past Alchemy Wall and Rubik's Cube to the gully leading down to the sea. A prominent buttress lies just north of this gully. It is also possible to get to this area by following an old 4WD track down to the coast from the Cape Tourville Rd, about 100m past the turn off to Bluestone Bay.
King Constipator 40m 24 Start at the hanging arête below the u-bolts on the right of the main butress. The crux is past the final overhang at the end of pitch 1. If you're a bit on the short side these few moves may be a fair bit harder than 24 and hard to aid. Thankfully the first ascentionist has provided ring bolts, so you can either lower-off or, more preferably, belay there then traverse right and ascend the pinnacle from behind, allowing the completion of the worthwhile 2nd pitch. 1) 24. Up the arête past several cams and bolts to a ledge, continue up the slab past another bolt to another ledge. Clip another bolt and climb the overhanging flake to gain yet another ledge and a well-needed break before tackling the final overhang. Belay on top of the pinnacle at the bolt. You'll need cams from 1-4 if you don't want to get too scared. 2) 21. Step across the void to gain the main part of the cliff and continue up the funky corner past 2 bolts. N.Hancock, A.Bissett (alt), Aug 2001.
Lego 25m 21 Full name: Where's My Mum, Where's My Dad, Where's My Lunch, Where's My Doll, Where's My Fucking Lego. Climb discontinuous cracks up the front of the buttress, passing several horizontal breaks with a tricky mantel. Crosses King Constipator and is probably superseded by it. N.Deka, Apr 1988.
I See You Baby (Shakin' that Ass) 20m 15 The easy slab and continuation groove about 50m left of Lego Buttress. J. Holland, M. Hynes, Sep 2001.
The so-called Rubik's Cube is the small series of cliffs that form vague cube like shapes, east of Tetragamatron. It is best to get a line on this when first walking down to Little Bluestone Bay. Access is best facilitated by scrambling down on the seaward side (SE).
1. Analysis, Statistics 15m 18 Start as for Interval but step left after 3m and climb hand-crack. Step left again at ledge and up incipient cracks to top. A fine climb to the end. N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989.
3. The Horror 8m 20 Far left hand side of the face. Up steep wall and crack to top with awkward finish. J.Pinkard, B. Baxter, Mar 1989.
4. Blinking Idiot 8m 24 The crack line right of The Horror. Adequately protected by wires and a 1 friend near the top. Move left to the frail looking jug just before the top. R. Parkyn, S. Edwards, Mar 1996.
5. Snakes, Ladders 8m 24 Steep, flared crack with layaways on both faces. Difficult to protect. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989.
7. a+b 8m 15 A fun climb. The corner crack which is both varied and well protected. D.Bruce, Mar 1989.
9. Digit 7m 20 Start 3m left of Spirit of Place. Up crack and layaway, surprisingly to right, otherwise you'll end up on the other climb. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989.
10. Spirit of Place 6m 21 Ascent of left trending diagonal confronted by thin balancy moves. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989.
11. Soft Grit 6m 21 The arête immediately right of Spirit of Place. Up into undercling and continue to thin crack (good wires here). Continue straight up the arête or dyno right to good holds and the top. N. Selby, Apr 2001.
12. Tangent 6m 16 Glorified boulder problem up crack, out under roof and bridge to finish. N. Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989.
13. Fractional 12m 21 Corner on extreme left of Black face. Bridge up blind corner to ledge. Up handcrack above. D.Stephenson, N.Deka, D.Batten, Mar 1989.
16. Rhomboid 10m 17 The arête immediately left of the overhang. Pleasant climbing up hand cracks. D.Stephenson, N.Deka, Mar 1989.
19. Geometry 10m 17 About 4m left of the arête, with a bouldery start. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989.
22. Roxanne's Corner 12m 8 The easy corner where the Red face meets the overhanging Blue face. Roxanne Wells, Mar 1989.
23. D Squared + r 12m 15 Just right of the centre of the face. A good route with RP protection. D.Bruce, D.Batten, R.Wells, Mar 1989.
Low-Flyer Wall: The steep wall that faces the the track where it meets Bluestone Bay, with two bolted routes.
A large white piece of rock with some yellow stains on it. The cliff is located between Rubiks Cube and Alchemy Wall. It is hidden behind Alchemy Wall when viewed from Little Bluestone Bay. The best option is to rap in, but access is possible down the gully on the Rubiks Cube side of the cliff. To use this access head down to just above Rubiks Cube and work around to Tetragammatron. It's possible to take the gully direct, but it's very loose and dangerous.
1. The Drivel Dies 35m 20 To the left of the gully that splits the face. The collection of finger and layback cracks left of the large chimney, climb these and when they run out step right into the chimney and onto the top. D. Gardner, T. Meldrum, T. McKenny, J. McKenny, Jan 1994.
2. The Devil Drives 40m 21 To the right of the gully that splits the face, on the left side of the wall. This route wonders up the wall to the right of the gully, but left of the difficult looking face to the ledge. Finish up pitch 2 of The Boy who Cried Wolf. E.Lees, N.Smith, 1982.
3. The Boy Who Cried Wolf 40m 20 This whole route is slightly overhung. Right of the above, below an obvious v-squeeze chimney at about 20m. 1) 25m. The curving cracks with hard mantelshelf and difficult off-width. Up the steep difficult crack for 10m to a difficult step right and mantelshelf which leads to an awkward exit up a flared squeeze chimney. 2) 15m. Continue straight up offwidth. J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.
4. The Little Red Hen 40m 22 The crack right of the above. Quite hard. Second pitch as above. J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.
5. Chicken Surprise 12m 22 A second pitch to Little Red Hen. The terrace half way up Tetragamatron Buttress is at two levels, the left being 1.5m lower than the right half. The line starts at the step between the two. At the top traverse right past a small tree, then up. Pete Steane, Adrian Herrington, 1996.
6. Tetragrammaton 40m 21 A good hard climb. Locate the most obvious finish on the right of the face and follow this in a straight line to the bottom. Start here. 1) 25m. Straight forward jamming with a couple of awkward moves around the bulge. 2) 15m. Start with difficult thin crack, then follow overhanging jam crack to top. J.Fantini, N.Smith, N.Deka, Nov 1981.
7. No More Mr Nice Guy 25m 19 A great route, one of the best at the grade. The climbing is varied and the protection very good. At the lowest point of the arete right of Tetragamatron. 1) 25m. follow cracks to half height then hand traverse left onto the ledge of Tetragamatron. 2) 15m. Either continue as for Tetragamatron pitch 2 (21), or more easily scamble left along ledge and up. J. Fisher, B. Chilvers, Feb 1994.
8. Exocet 48m 26 A total classic. 1) 18m 17. Climb up No More Mr Nice Guy to the traverse line and then continue up corner to DBB. 2) 18m 26. The pumpy thin crack up the overhanging arete and around the corner passing a bolt (crux) to another DBB. 3) 10m 17. The nice hand and offwidth to the top. G. Phillips and S.Young 2007.
9. Edge of the World 40m 19 This route is on the south facing wall of the zawn just north of Tetragamatron Buttress, visible from the top of this buttress. Descent is by abseil. The line on the left of the wall, sustained and a little loose. R.McMahon, J.Fisher, B.Chilvers, Apr 1994.
The compact wall visible from across Little Bluestone Bay. A distinct right leaning crack can be seen on the wall's left hand end (Hermes Trismegistus). To get there head up and right from the road end at Little Bluestone Bay. Follow and faint pad and the cliff tops around towards the cliff. Go through a dry creek bed looking gully and continue for a few hundred meters. Alchemy Wall is marked by a cairn. The approach takes around 10 minutes. Abseil or a scramble down at the northern end.
1. Monte Carlo 17m 18 Left of the main Alchemy Face, on the left end of the seaward facing wall about 10m left of Coolibah Crack. The off-width corner. A bit of a struggle, with the hard part of the off-width avoided by moving into crack at right near the top. J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.
2. Evelyn's Climb 15m 20 The route left of Coolibah Crack, just right of Monte Carlo. Starts as a tight overhanging hand crack to good hands and easier climbing. Evelyn Lees, N.Smith, B.Maddison, P.Cullen, Jan 1982.
3. Coolibah Crack 20m 19 The climb is located round left on Alchemy Face and is a sharp, arching crack up face with an orange hue. Awkward balance moves up initial flaring groove coming out onto leftward leaning crack up steep face. J. Fantini, R. McMahon, Oct 1981.
4. Immaculate Misconception 20m 26 The arête right of Coolibah Crack provides excellent climbing. The protection is good, comprising wires and bolts. Follow the arête to the overlap, turn this and head up the right side of the arête to the top. N. Hancock, A. Bissett, Aug 2001.
5. Hermes Playmate 20m 22 Start up Hermes Trismegistus. Climb the cracks for 7m then left onto the face and directly up to some obvious underclings below the bulge. Move left few metres then up for 4m. Finish up the seam. Simon Carter, Roxanne Wells, Feb 95.
6. Hermes Trismegistus 27m 21 The diagonal crack on the left of the seaward face provides steep and sustained climbing for its length. Take care with friends in the inward flaring crack, hexes are very useful if you still own any. John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.
7. Captivating Passions 20m 25 Right of Hermes Trismegistus is a discontinuous line leading up to two u-bolts. Climb this past the bolts to the top (no lower-offs so back-jump or rap of a tree). Grant Rowbottom, 1999.
8. Walking the Plank Direct Finish 18m 22 Climb Walking the Plank, but rather than stepping right into BEB head left past 1 bolt runner and up to lay back off width to finish. Take a #4 friend for the top. G. Phillips & J. Bresnehan Sep 2007.
9. Walking the Plank 25m 19 The crack system right of Captivating Passions. The cracks run out on the upper face, forcing a rightwards traverse into Blue-eyed Blonde. Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 1981.
10. Blue-eyed Blonde 25m 19 Follow cracks to bulge, just right of Walking the Plank. Over bulge to top. Good pro. Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 81.
11. Alchemy 25m 21 The next crack system right. Thin moves at start easing off to good flake edge, then a reach for a ledge. Mantel crux followed by finger/hand crack. John Fantini, Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Nov 81.
Fools Gold 10m 15 A nice little corner on the left end of the tier above Alchemy Face. Awkward moves to gain ledge on arête. Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 81.
Silver and Gold 14m 16 About 10 metres to the right of Exquisite Tenderness is a steep arête. Start about 2 metres further right of this underneath some large undercling flakes. Up the wall to the flakes and traverse
leftwards around them to the arête. Up the arête and blocks above to the top. J.Nermut, J.Anderson & E.Bradley Jan 2001.
leftwards around them to the arête. Up the arête and blocks above to the top. J.Nermut, J.Anderson & E.Bradley Jan 2001.
Haliaeetus Leucogaster 12m 17 Start a metre or two further right than Silver and Gold and climb the thin broken crack and the blocks above to the top. J.Nermut, J.Anderson & E.Bradley Jan 2001.
As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a small, dry creek bed shortly after you turn south (5 minutes after leaving the road end). This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the top of the second ramp.
Struck Off 10m 24 On small pinnacle at left end of crag, climb open groove on north side to roof and bolt. Hard moves to BB on top. Nick Hancock & Norm Selby Mar 03.
Dodgy Ringpulls 12m 18 Start at a small downward pointing flake left of Double Deka. Climb the initial overhang then continue up the lower angled rock to the top. Kim Robinson, Aug 1997.
Double Deka 15m 12 About 2m left of Firewalker. Crux is laybacking down low, finishing up same slab as Firewalker. Nick Deka solo.
Firewalker 16m 15 The short corner at the left end of the short steep face which turns into a slab at 4 - 5m. Awkward moves in initial corner. Finish up easy slab. Neale Smith (solo), Oct 81.
Ogma Sun Face 15m 19 The next line downhill and 3m right. Mainly finger crack with a long reach out right to gain the easy slab. John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.
Steel Springs 15m 17 Next line right. A graceful corner finishing up slab. Bridging moves with tricky protection. Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 81.
Curious Fanatic 15m 22 On the face 6m up left of the easy corner. A difficult boulder problem start gives way to flaring, slippery locks. John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.
First in First Served 10m 21 About 3m left of Easy Corner, is a short overhanging face right of Curious Fanatic. Dynamic bouldery start, easy to top. Robert McMahon, Mar 89.
Easy Corner 10m 10 The obvious rightmost corner about 20m left of the sea. Neale Smith (solo), Oct 81.
Mathonwy 15m 12 A white wall down the Second Ramp. The line goes up the left of the face just right of the corner. Good holds - steep start and easy later. Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.
Doesn't Matter 15m 12 Further right, up the centre of the face. Same as above. Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.
As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a tiny creek shortly after you turn south. This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the left end of the First Ramp.
Bearded Clam Corner 10m 18 The first corner on the small black face. Crux move of thin bridging about a body length off the ground. Straight forward and pleasant bridging all the way with good protection. Neale Smith, 1981.
Fine Wine, Women and Precious Things 10m 22 The finely detailed black stained face just right of Bearded Clam Corner. Sustained, and has poor RP protection. R.McMahon, R.Wells, 1989.
Triptolemus 10m 17 Further down the ramp are several lines on a steep face. The first is a black corner and the second is this corner. Quite technical and steep face climbing. N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 81.
Velchanos (Demon) 22m 17 Just left of the main buttress. The route takes a direct line up through the overhanging bulge. Strenuous but not sustained. N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 81.
Whinging Poms 22m 17 The open book corner to the right of Velchanos. Up that (too easy), pull through overhang (too hard) and up crack above (too loose). D.Gardner, A.Holden, Jul 90.
Feed the Man Meat 23m 17 The high large block with a crusty orange face. Through roof onto steep face. Poor protection. Marc Tierney, Micheal Fox, Andrew Brooks, Mar 89.
Taliesin 22m 16 On the first major buttress you come to is a diagonal line starting lower left on the main buttress passing through roof near the top (crux) followed by good but easy corner to finish. Robert McMahon, Neale Smith, Oct 81.
Ygdrassill 15m 17 On the right on this face. Very balancey, committing moves rounding rooves, move leftwards to gain jams. Easy to top. Robert McMahon, John Fantini, Oct 81.
Furless 15m 17 To the right (north) of First Ramp is a striking block with an overhanging base. Follow the crack up the seaward face. Kim Robinson, Aug 97.
The first sizable piece of rock north of Little Bluestone Bay. To get there head down the track to Little Bluestone Bay and turn left at the end and walk 50m. Easily approached from above or below. You'll be able to recoginise it by the shiny new bolts Norm has placed.
Red Line 8m 27 Start as for Tribute then swing left and follow bolts up the face. G Phillips, Feb 03.
Ekeko 14m 21 5Þ Start just right, stick clip first bolt and up steep face, 5 U bolts. N.Selby, 25/08/2002
The Path of the Enigma 12m 23 4Þ Start 2m to the right, stick clip the first bolt and go up the arête past 4 U bolts. N.Selby, 12/10/2002
Natural Athlete in a Barrel 15m 23 4Þ The blunt arête 50 m right of Travel Land. Fridge lifting past 4 bolts to a DBB. Nick Hancock, Duncan Shepherd, Kelly-Ann Schilke & Duncan MacGregor Dec 08.
From the end of the track at White Stack, the Sentry Box is easily seen about 200m south. It is the big square block with the orange white face. The upper half of Sentry Box takes the crack which splits this face. It can either be approached from White Stack, or northwards around the coast from Little Bluestone, past Travel Land.
Sentry Box 15m 19 On the left hand arête at the base of the buttress. Up slightly left of the arête with some awkward balance moves to gain a shallow corner to get under the block. Traverse right to gain the crack and straight up, first on fingerlocks and then good jams. F.Moon, W.Moon, 1980.
Fridge Magnet 10m 26 4Þ Powerful side-pulling up the double-edged arête starting about 5 m left of Rainbow Groove via 4 bolts to a single bolt lower-off. Nick Hancock Nov 04.
