The bouldering here used to be quite good, but in winter 2006, the boulder collapsed. According to Mike Berry, "The entire boulder has dropped around 2-3 feet in the right hand corner. This means that all the routes on the vertical side are now less than vertical and a doddle. Gnarly Spider itself and all the ones on the front are completely different and your bum now drags on the ground. It happened (I think) during the really heavy rains earlier on this year. Anyway ... as a bouldering venue it is now worthless!"
This guide will stay here for historical purposes, but Gnarly Spider probably isn't worth visiting anymore.
This guide will stay here for historical purposes, but Gnarly Spider probably isn't worth visiting anymore.
Access to this boulder is the same as for Monkeys Bum Crag. From the East Derwent highway about 5km along from the Bowen Bridge the road crosses a creek just before it sweeps around to the left. Park on the right in the area provided. Go up the valley. The Gnarly Spider boulder is on the right side of a grassy flat a third of the way along the walk to Monkey's Bum (the climbing crag - see Craglets).
2. Gnarly Spider V4 (SDS) Start at jug right of crack. Crank left across the lip via good edges and slopers. Finish at left hand jug. V3 if done left to right.
4. Pof Bandit V8 (SDS) Sit start on hold under roof. Up to large sloping hold at lip, mantle and top out.
5. The Full Gnarly V6 (SDS) Continue problem 2 (Gnarly Spider) around the arete and across the entire face using small edges (manufactured!) to finish as for 10. V4/5 if done from the arete only (sit start). Many eliminates / variants also exist.
