Friendly Point
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Introduction | The Friendly Beaches are the surf beaches at the northern end of the park. The main cliff at Friendly Point consists of a very impressive south-facing wall with an unusual U shaped runnel forming its left end. This runnel also marks the point where the cliff becomes east facing and is a useful reference point. The routes here are only spoiled by the lack of lower-off anchors. | ||||||
Access | The Friendly Beaches are reached by turning off the main road 18km north of Coles Bay and walking to the southern end of the beaches, or by following the Coles Bay dam 4 wheel drive track to the southern end of Friendly Beaches. Access is made by scrambling south along the coastline from the southern end of the beach (about 20 minutes), until a large amphitheatre is reached. You can't see the cliffs from the beach because they are around the corner. They are pretty impressive though, and worth the walk. Routes are described left to right, although you'll encounter them right to left. |
This is the most isolated and least visited section of the coast, midway between Bluestone Bay and Friendly Beaches to the north of the White Water Wall Area. Access is by following the Coles Bay Dam Rd to the old mine site north of Bluestone Bay and about 1km inland. Head towards the coast south of Boot Rock. The most substantial crag is 500m south of the Boot, identified by a Rubik's Cube type wall on the left and a higher wall on the right. There is a large chimney corner at the right hand end of the wall.
The Choss Baggers Picnic 30m 16 Begin about 5m to the right of the large left facing corner chimney above a small pedestal. 1. 20m. Jam, bridge and chimney the line. Belay on ledge. 2. 10m. Steep cracks on the right wall of easy corner to the top. Richard Eccleston, Adam Potito, Jul 93.
This cliff is located one kilometre south of Friendly Point and is approached via the four wheel drive track leading out to Friendly Point from Coles Bay. Upon reaching Freshwater Lagoon turn right through the campground and follow the steep track at its end to the top of the hill. From the turnaround 50 metres back, head due east, following vague paths through some scrub, down towards a block, atop a cliff with a sea cave cutting through it.
Ship's Krill 20m 19 The steep arête on the south western tip. Approach via the gully leading south past the landward side of the sea cave. Nick Hancock, Toby Story, 01/12/02
Finger Wimp 15m 25 Þ On the seaward face is a grey slab facing north. Climb carefully past a 6 Rock to the first bolt, then traverse desperately left to the arête passing three more. Nick Hancock, Toby Story 01/12/02
Spam Fisted 15m 17 The stepped corner forming the right boundary of the grey slab. Toby Story, Nick Hancock 01/12/02
Blue Pfizer 20m 25 So named because it goes straight up at a ridiculous angle. Climb the very steep, but mostly juggy, groove; five metres right of Spam Fisted, via 7 bolts. Nick Hancock, Oct. 2006.
Whip Smart 20m 22 On the steep south facing wall, north of the through cave. Climb the right trending flake, step left and layback the flared cack to a good break, then the final thin seam. Nick Hancock, Toby Story 01/12/02
Groove Terminator 20m 23 Climb the open groove just right of the flake to a good ledge below the continuation of the flake. Easily up this. Marginal, hard to place protection. Doug McConnell, Toby Story, Nick Hancock 01/12/02
Greased Lightning 20m 25 4Þ The very thin wall to the right via four U-bolts. Doug McConnell, Nick Hancock 01/12/02.
Sam And Eloise's First New Route 25m 12 South of the main crag a slab is reached by going past a steep bulging wall and through a notch. This climb traverses out onto the slab and follows the line to the top. Sam Martin, Eloise Bradley, 199?
The following climbs are in the main ampitheatre. The east facing (seaward) wall of the Amphitheatre comprises two terraces. On the bottom terrace a stepped flake provides a point of reference.
Love Gets Dangerous 12m 19 The route follows twin cracks 7m left of the stepped flake. Start from a pedestal beneath the left crack, move to the right crack and then back left to finish. Tim Chappell, Adam Potito, I. McCulloch Sept 1992.
Cloaxial 15m 25 Right of Love Gets Dangerous and about 20 metres left of the runnel; Climb strenuous twin cracks to an obvious undercut flake. Well protected. Mark Bennis, Nick Hancock, Nov 01.
Hip Hip Foray 15m 18 On the top tier, on the access ramp above Cloaxial, climb a left facing corner crack in the centre of the cliff, to a juggy roof. Take care with the rock when pulling over. Matt Bennett, Allyson Eaton, Nov 01
Unoriginal Sin 15m 23 Þ The fully U-bolted arête just right of the runnel. Take gear for the belay or down-climb and lower off the top bolt. Nick Hancock, Mark Bennis, Matt Bennett, Nov 01.
Axial Of Evil 15m 25 Just L of the runnel climb the very thin twin cracks, trending slightly rightwards. Well protected. Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, February 2003.
She Cooked Me Breakfast 18m 16 The right trending chimney crack about 18 metres R of the runnel, starting off a hanging ledge. Nick Hancock, Alex Wilson, Jake Bresnehan.
Chaos Theory 20m 26/27 Climbs the left crack with a wicked leap for a fingerlock to start. Make a bold move to a rest at the horizontal, (1/2 friend), and then exhausting moves to gain the bottomless finishing crack. Nick Hancock, Nov 01
Fading Star 25m 24/25 Follow the right crack to a hard, strenuous move over the small roof. Well protected. Nick Hancock, Mark Bennis, Nov 01
Albatross 20m 21 The big corner rising above the seaward boulders. Lots of hand sized cams needed. Dennis Kearnes, John Fry, 1991
A Gut Full of Bourbon 18m 26 Þ Starts the same as HFOS but from the over-lap under-cling left and finish up the wall above. Awesome last move! Garry Phillips 2004.
