The bouldering at Elderslie is on sandstone boulders and is quite good. It was originally discovered by Mike Berry and developed by Stu Bowling & friends in early 2001 and after many trips now has about 50 problems, and more waiting to be done.
To get there drive up the Midlands Highway from Hobart towards Brighton. Take the left hand road just before Brighton (Elderslie Road). Follow this road for 15 minutes or so before reaching Elderslie (not much more than a few farms and a golf club). Take a right a few kilometres out of Elderslie (Clifton Vale Road) and follow this dirt road for about 5 kilometres before reaching a Y intersection; take the right road (to Dysart), you will go up a rise and then the road will go down again, at the bottom of this hill on the left is the fire trail about 1 kilometre from the intersection. (Note: This first area is now mostly inaccessible, unless you can convince the new landowners otherwise!). You walk up here for 100m or so and then to your left is Slug Rock (amongst the trees) and the Ant Rocks are about 100m uphill from here. Drive on another 200m or so and on the right is the pullover next to the creek, opposite the obvious Roadside boulders. Park here to access the Block (access at your own risk!) and Forbidden Forest areas.
There are 4 or so obvious freestanding boulders right by the parking area. To my knowledge for some reason these have never been developed. There are probably about 10 problems to be done here, but they need some cleaning. They are literally 10m from the road, and there is no fence, so access should not be an issue.
Park at the pullover on the right side of the road just before the roadside boulders and walk along the road for about 50m, there is a bit of a track up to the left. Walk to the top of this first small hill to reach the Block via other boulders including the Voltage boulder. Many new problems still await ascents in this area though rock quality might not be as good as some of the more established problems. These boulders are presumably on the same land as the Ant and Slug boulders, and so have the same access problems, but they are a bit further away from the house.
11. Voltage V8+ Up slightly overhanging face on very thin holds. Distinctive triangular face on the way to the Block.
Park at the bottom of the fire trail on the left. Walk up the fire trail for about 200m before shooting off to the left for about 80m, if you get to the top of the hill you've gone to far. Access is now an issue to this area as a house has been built just down hill from Slug Rock. Confirm accessibility with land owners before climbing.
The ant boulder is just up the hill from Slug Rock and Boulder 2 is just around the hill from Slug Rock
4. Goldfinger V4+ (SDS) Sit start under small roof. Move through reasonable edges, dyno to lip, mantle top out.
3. Watch Me V5 Stand start at good holds at half height. Straight up through reasonable holds to crux slopey top out. Good spotting required.
Park as for the block area and walk across the paddock, obviously not in the poppy season. Cross the creek (sometimes dry) and turn left up towards the fence line, follow this (and the overhead power lines) until you get to a gate on the left. Go through this and continue along the fence / power line and the 4WD track for another 100m or so. The boulders are up to the left amongst the trees, the first to come into sight is the overhang with problem 1. on it.
As with all the climbing at Elderslie, the Forbidden Forest is on private land. To gain permission call into the white house marked on the map.
As with all the climbing at Elderslie, the Forbidden Forest is on private land. To gain permission call into the white house marked on the map.
1. Red Dragon V8 (SDS) The first problem to come into view when walking along the 4WD track, climbs out through the roof, trending left via sloper at the top.
5. Sams Arete V9 (SDS) Sit start on edges to slopey lay back, dyno to jug. Powerful and hard as is to be expected.
17. Elmos world V4 (SDS) Sit start left of arete on good holds. Move straight up (no arete) on good holds to lip.
The Gully is a new area that is under development. Unlike most of Elderslie, the boulders are on Crown land, so access shouldn't be as much of an issue. There is a large amount of wildlife in the gully, including snakes and wallabies, so dogs probably aren't a good idea.
To get there, continue on the road past the Roadside boulder for another couple of hundred metres, around the corner. Park at a large pull-out on the left. Go through the gate on the opposite side of the road, and cross the river at the ford (usually OK except after rain). Head across the paddock to the entrance to the valley. Once through the gate, head left up the hill to where it flattens out. Follow the fairly flat and clear area up the valley, until you find the first boulder (Crystal Boulder). Total walking time about 10 minutes.
To get there, continue on the road past the Roadside boulder for another couple of hundred metres, around the corner. Park at a large pull-out on the left. Go through the gate on the opposite side of the road, and cross the river at the ford (usually OK except after rain). Head across the paddock to the entrance to the valley. Once through the gate, head left up the hill to where it flattens out. Follow the fairly flat and clear area up the valley, until you find the first boulder (Crystal Boulder). Total walking time about 10 minutes.
5. Paydirt V3 (Hang) Right arete of steep face. Hang start and up arete. The full sit start needs to be done.
