Cataract Gorge - Sunny Side
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Acknowledgement | by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets | ||||||
Introduction | Climbing in Launceston used to happen mainly in the Gorge area which is 10 minutes walk from the centre of town however it now also includes the whole of the South Esk. As with most of Tassie, a lot of the climbing is on dolerite crags, in cracks and corners, occasionally branching out on to the faces and aretes. This section of the guide has only been possible thanks to the input of the local climbing community. That being said it is everyone’s responsibility to ensure editors are supplied accurate and up to date information. If you spot inaccuracies, let us know and we’ll fix them, if you’re not prepared to do this don’t complain about the product! As such this is a ragtag collection of gossip and innuendo and should be treated as such. A lot of these routes haven’t been done by yours truly so I can’t vouch for their grades, quality or even give them a character reference. A lot of the routes are not even known by names except as “that 19 left of...”. In these cases I made up names for them because I got sick of writing “left of the 19...”. Such climbs are marked with a #. Climbers have worked closely with the Launceston City Council who are concerned about safety for climbers and walkers. To ensure continued access to the cliffs climbers have negotiated a Code of Conduct with the council. See http://www.launceston.tas.gov.au/upload/3819/conduct.pdf for a copy. A basic summary of this appears below and it will improve our chances of continuing to climb in the Gorge if you can follow them…. Don’t act like a dickhead! Be nice to the trees, animals, tourists and plants. If you have to scrub a new route for hours before it’s climbable then don’t bother as it will probably be covered in lichen again after the winter. Routes directly above the “Tourist Track” must be adequately protected to ensure the safety of the non-climbing public. Let people know what you are doing (nobody wants a climber plummeting onto them out of the blue!). Fixed anchors should be current best practice with the use of corrosive metals and “carrots” considered sub-standard. All routes (including gear routes) above Tourist Tracks must have double lower off bolts (this protects vegetation and eliminates the risk of dislodging stones while scrambling down off climbs). For current information contact Ian Ferrier at Mountain Designs in York St, Launceston. There is no intention to deter bold climbing or tell people when and where to bolt, but all climbers should understand that this is an access issue and that there is much rock away from tourist areas. The Gorge is the most popular climbing area in Launceston, it is broken into two areas. The Shady Side and the Sunny Side. Simple hey! Obviously climb on the Shady Side on hot sunny days and on the Sunny Side any other time. Be Safe. Be Good and ... use ‘adequate protection’. | ||||||
Access | All the climbs on the (south) Sunny Side of the Gorge can be accessed from the Zig-Zag track, which starts at the soute side of Kings Bridge. Park in the Penny Royal car-park, just before the bridge. See the sketch map for an idea of how to get to the buttresses. |
Access- see map. The first major (8m) pinnacle that you come to on the uphill side of the zig-zag track. Beware the large flake on the right has been known to move. DBB on top.
Miff-Take 8m 19 Up the face on the front of the pinnacle to the horizontal break and then left to the crack. Thomas, McMahon, Ling, 1980.
Arête Direct 8m 20 Start in yellow open book corner, up to horizontal break and then up arête. Parsons (solo), 1982.
Seif 8m 17 From back right-hand edge of pinnacle traverse left to hand crack and up. McMahon, McHugh, 1972.
Various combinations of these have been done including a traverse around the whole pinnacle at the level of the horizontal break (about 22).
Various combinations of these have been done including a traverse around the whole pinnacle at the level of the horizontal break (about 22).
Access- see map. The largest piece of climbable rock right beside the track. The first ascentionists are long forgotten but it still makes an excellent place to start climbing with a lot of the routes off the vertical. Bolt belays on top.
Access- scramble up from the downstream end of Track Side Buttress. The climbs start around the corner on the downstream side and are 6-8m high.
Blue No More 15m 22 On the left hand end off the cliff 6m from Pelvic Thrust is a flaring corner. Up this to thin seam which widens to a hand crack. McMahon, Smith, 1981.
Pelvic Thrust 18m 21 Thin crack to FH and small roof and then out left to final crack. Fantini, McMahon, 1981.
Free Passage 18m 23 Start 4m right of Pelvic Thrust and climb the face/crack to a ledge. Step left to the hand/finger crack. Fantini, Smith, 1981.
Offal Diagonal 18m 22 Start up Offal and then at the ledge go out the right diagonal crack. Parsons, 1982.
Blockbuster Traverse 25m 23 Start from the ledge on Blue No More across Pelvic Thrust and Free Passage then finishing up Offal Diagonal. Initially climbed with a piton knocked in with a blockbuster. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1985.
Knacker 16m 13 The chimney around the corner formed by the back of the Pelvic Thrust block. McMahon (solo), 1972.
Saved 14m 23 Thin face climbing with very little gear. Next to the descent track 5m uphill from Morte D'Arthur. Narkowicz, Focken, 1985.
Below Offal Buttress there is a series of small faces with potential for some new (but "diminutive") routes.
Access- see map. Just upstream and downhill from Trackside. Easy to get to by abseiling from the eye-bolts.
Access- scramble downhill and upstream from Shimmy Sheister buttress or go uphill and downstream from the top of the Mick Loves Anne face. All roads lead to Rome.
Rising Gorge 13m 27 4Þ Another excellent job of undergrading by John who initially gave it 24. Line of 4 eye-bolts. DBB. Fisher, 1996.
Nighthawks 10m 18 Jamming up hand and fist crack on the front of the buttress. For the aficionados of the jam. Thomas, McMahon, 1980
The face to the right of Trench-Foot has been top-roped at somewhere between 17 and 19 depending what hold has most recently broken off.
A Man's Drink 8m 15 The crack behind the tree on the pillar 10m downhill from Trench-Foot. Smith (solo), 1981.
A Man's Second Drink 8m 17 5m around the corner from A Man's Drink is a line of thin flakes leading up to a hand crack. Smith, 1981.
Access- From half-way down the descent track on the upstream side of Offal buttress walk upstream for 50m to a small clump of she-oaks. Abseil from the DBB behind these to the base of the cliff, approximately 12m, which is recognisable by the painted pierced heart. Alternatively scramble upstream 50m from the base of Offal. Multiple bolt belays on top.
Choking the Chicken 10m 22 3Þ Or 24 for the vertically challenged. The arete with 3 eye-bolts. Fisher, Fox, 1995.
Pickpocket 10m 20 Corner and thin crack 2m right of Choking The Chicken. Ellenburger, K.Smith, 1975. Fantini, Smith, McMahon, 1981.
Crab Spread 10m 20 Up face to eye-bolt and rusty old piton then to crack above. Fife, Narkowicz, 1982.
Fruit of the Spirit 12m 22 The crack 3m left of Dead Zone up to a hollow block then 2 eye-bolts on the face above. Narkowicz, 1982.
Zoo's Face 10m 18 The face 2m right of Stopping On The Red. No gear worth stopping for. Thomas (solo), 1981.
Cue Ball Head 10m 14 The broken crack line 4m upstream of Stopping On The Red. McMahon, Thomas,1980.
The face right of Cue Ball Head is another top rope route at about 17.
The face right of Cue Ball Head is another top rope route at about 17.
Fly By Night 8m 17 The last climb before the off-width corner. Up corner to block at the top. Harder than it looks. Thomas, Keenan, McMahon, 1981.
Access- Walk 30m up the ramp from Deadzone on the Mickey Loves Anne face. It's most use is for finding the access to Riverside Buttress
Access- Abseil in from the trees 10m below the Foam Pinnacle or scramble down the upstream side of Foam Pinnacle, best done at low tide.
Access- From Foam Pinnacle walk upstream and uphill for 40m or alternatively drop down from the upstream end of Saturday Night Buttress. The climbs on Pygmy Possum Buttress are almost 30m long and are some of the longest climbs in the Gorge.
Thylacine 27m 16 Left hand off-width to hand crack then on to the face of the top pillar. McMahon, Mohler, 1981.
Pygmy Possum 25m 18 A difficult start up thin crack and corner before easing to hand jams. Continue up crack above. McHugh, McMahon, 1972.
Schmidt Variant 25m 16 Starts up Thylacine and then traverses on to Pygmy Possum after the off-width. Schmidt.
French Ethics 10m 18 Scramble up the gully on the right of the Pygmy Possum Buttress to where it is possible to climb the arete/pillar with 3 eye-bolts and some natural gear (oh no) to a DBB. Fox, Bissett, French, 1997.
Access- Directly above Pygmy Possum Buttress on the uphill side of the track to Saturday Night Buttress.
Game of Chance 12m 19 Start in cleft on the far left up to overlap and crack above. McMahon, Mohler, 1981.
Sunflower 12m 22 3Þ Climb the arête 1m left of Aqua-Slick with 3 U-bolts. Good climbing though the crux is avoiding stepping into Aqua-Slick. DBB. Ng, McOwan, 1990.
Access- see map. One of the most popular buttresses in the Gorge because of it's easy access and great variety of climbs.
Crossing Siva 15m 24 Climb to the 2nd bolt of The Night Dweller and traverse right at that level crossing Third Rising at the 2nd bolt and then across to Feltham. Easier for the tall and easier going right to left. Fox, DeCesare, 2002.
Out of Date Route 14m 19 The face left of Westham with 2 carrots. Starts 2m left of Westham. A variant start on the block another 2m left goes at 17. Parsons (solo), 1982.
Westham 14m 14 The classic corner/crack system. McMahon, Brooks High School, 1972 (Must have been crowded - Ed).
Third Rising 12m 24 The orange face with 2 bolts and then exiting up the finger crack on the right. Ng, 1990.
Feinian 12m 22 Climb the arête right of Third Rising using the same bolts and finish as for that climb, but somehow avoiding Lingham all the way. Ng, 1989.
Venom 14m 24 Wide arête 2m right of Lingham, this time avoiding going into either Lingham or Feltham! McMahon, 1988.
Feltham 14m 16 Up right trending ramp to block then back left to hand crack. McMahon, Schmidt, 1972.
Cunningham 10m 15 3m right of Pork Hunt go up crack through small roof. McMahon, Brooks High School, 1972.
Jelly Boy 12m 18 Climb face to single U-bolt, then up to flake and on to top. First bolt can be easily clipped from right before starting to avoid awkward fall. Kearnes, Fox, Decesare, 1998.
Cunningham 10m 13 5m right of Jelly boy. Climb up to overlap and up crack on the right. McMahon and Brooks High, 1972.
Hamurabi 8m 16 The third of 3 cracks around the corner from Cunningham. Needs a clean. McMahon, I.Thomas, 1981.
Access- The pinnacle at the base of Feltham. Abseil in from Feltham or scramble down on the downstream side.
The Wrong Man 10m 18 The first hand crack of the downstream end of the buttress. An excellent jamming excursion. Smith, Ling, McMahon, 1980.
Roxanne 10m 24 The face 1m right of the Wrong Man, up to an eye-bolt and then the thin crack. Ng, 90's.
Up the Wall 9m 25 Thin face with 2 eye-bolts then exit up crack on left. Can be done starting up the chimney on the right and then moving left but take off two grades. Fisher, 1996.
Cold Chat 9m 20 The next crack starting as a finger crack then opening up to a hand crack. Fantini, Smith, 1981.
Left Hand Man 10m 19 Starts up corner with thin crack to ledge and then easier crack. I.Thomas, McMahon, 1980.
Godfather 11m 23 Arête with 2 carrot bolts. Most people start from the Hot Gossip ledge. Add a grade for the direct. Ng, 1990.
Bohnanza 10m 21 5Þ This climb is on a new cliff just past Right Man buttress on the way to Fat Man buttress. Left leaning line/crack with 5 bolts to rap point. Stick clip the first bolt. N Selby 9/8/2003.
Access- Go down from the upstream end of Right Man Buttress and abseil in, or scramble across from Porker Pinnacle.
Getting Dark, Too Dark to See 8m 20 The finger crack on the left hand end of the buttress which opens to a small corner and hand jamming. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
By the Light of Karabiners 9m 19 Corner and crack 3m right of Getting Dark... Narkowicz, McMahon, Nougher, 1982.
Dog Leg 10m 15 Same start as Straight Arm then move right at 1/3 height to the next crack. McMahon, Smith, 1981.
Diagonal 11m 18 Go up the overhanging flake to right diagonal crack and along it to the twin cracks. Smith, McMahon, 1981.
Access- Upstream and downhill from Right Man. The first 3 "climbs" are barely 5m long however the rest can aspire to be grown up climbs.
Scottish Fire 7m 24 Step right from ledge onto arete and fixed hanger then head up. Originally done direct but a crucial hold has broken off and still waits for an ascent this way. Ng, McOwen 1990.
Lady Midnight 10m 17 10m right of Fingal Fling. Up short corner and flake to move left to hand crack. Parsons, Woodruff, 1977.
Joan of Arc 10m 21 The crack you just abseiled past. Climb thin crack to gain left hand edge of cave then move back left to hand crack. Thomas, Smith, McMahon, 1980.
Arc of Joan 10m 23 Climb the face right of Joan of Arc past a FH up to the cave and then up finger crack. McOwan, Wells, 1989.
Once Again 10m 18 Traverse to the second corner upstream of Arc of Joan, preferably when the tide is out, then climb the hand crack. Smith, McMahon, 1980.
Italian Club 10m 17 Abseil from 10m upstream of Lady Midnight to the water for a hanging belay. Climb the crack. Mohler, McMahon, 1982.
Italian Way 10m 17 About 10m upstream of Italian Club. Climb up and left to the overhang and then up crack. McMahon, Mohler, 1982.
Whore of Babylon 10m 17 Best approached from the upstream side or even The Gully. Start at the water level go up the slab to the small roof and jam crack. McMahon, Thomas, 1980.
To the Elbow 10m 16 Climb the off-width behind the pillar of Thin Fiend on the downstream side. McMahon, Smith 1972.
Fatman 10m 10 The chimney behind the isolated Fatman Pinnacle 5m upstream from the Thin Friend pillar. McMahon, McHugh, 1972.
Crucifix 10m 19 3Þ Up the face of the Fatman Pinnacle past 3 carrots and friend placements in the horizontal breaks. DBB. Ng, 1991.
The bolts are the result of an Ng project which was to go on the right but is too contrived to bother with.
Skinny Girl 10m 18 Up through bulge and hand crack to the split between the pillar and the buttress proper. Smith, McMahon.
Acoustics and Meat 8m 18 The off-width through the small roof 10m uphill and right of Skinny Girl. Narkowicz, McMahon.
Getting On With the Neighbours 8m 13 The corner 3m up hill from Acoustics & Meat. Mohler, Madden, 1981.
When the Fat Lady Sings 10m 25 3Þ The arête/pillar with 3 eye-bolts. DBB. Fox, Munro, Kearnes, 1996.
Purveyor of Flesh 9m 14 Second last corner of the buttress 10m uphill from When the Fat Lady Sings. McMahon, Smith, 1981.
Start Running 7m 23 2Þ The 2 carrots 3m left of You're Fat! Starting at the same level step left on to arete. Originally conceived with a direct independent start but still waiting. Ng, 1991.
Gerry's River Traverse 20 Starts somewhere down river of Fatman Buttress and goes for about 100m. "The landing is soft and rarely more than 1m away" to quote someone. Narkowicz (solo), 1982.
Fear and Frothing 12m 21 Þ The thin cracks past an eye-bolt to the steel spike then traverse left to the arête and another eye-bolt. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Urbino 10m 17 Uphill and upstream of the last climb is a separate pillar split by a crack. McMahon, Fantini, 1980.
This buttress is upstream and on the same level as the top of the Fatman Buttress, directly above The Gully.
Polyphiloprogenitive 9m 16 Corner right of Sapient Sutler to join it at the off-width. Smith, McMahon, 1981.
Fish Fingered Choir Girl 12m 19 4Þ A couple of metres left of Noodle Armed Choir Boy. Climb the face, 4 fixed hangers, take a wire for the top moves if you want extra pro. DBB at the top. Dennis Kearnes, Michael Fox, 3/11/07.
Noodle Armed Choir Boy 12m 18 On face that faces upstream overlooking The Gully. Walk downhill and then upstream from You're Fat and abseil to large ledge from DBB on LPFY! Climb face corner past two U-bolts, then natural gear. Bissett, 1998.
Lesbo Pussy Feast, Yehah!! 12m 25 Þ The line 4m right of NACB. Climb past two U-bolts (double ropes may be better, but clips are good) into corner, place a cam and go up. Bissett, 1998
Access- requires a 30m abseil from the double bolt belay, next to small tree below the Wonders of the Flesh Buttress.
Lutzen 25m 21 Start on the downstream side of the gully.
1) Climb up the thin line to the black face, then continue to a grassy ledge. 2) Climb up the obvious left crack. Fantini, McMahon, 1981.
1) Climb up the thin line to the black face, then continue to a grassy ledge. 2) Climb up the obvious left crack. Fantini, McMahon, 1981.
Bautlen 20m 19 On the upstream side of the gully. Up blank corner past piton, through small roof and up crack. McMahon, Ling, 1982.
Almost Mars 12m 22 Thin crack and face climbing 1m left of Mars deviating right at the top. Apparently a direct finish has been done at 24. Smart, McMahon, 1982.
Serenity Now!! 16m 21 6Þ In the gully right of Mars Wall is a line of 6 U-bolts. This is it. DBB. Bissett, 1998.
Access- above and to the right of Mars Wall is a gully, on the left is a very small buttress with the following routes. It can also be accessed from Gabriel.
Fuseli 8m 23 The blank corner to the crack and then exit left. Originally used a piton runner. McMahon, Ling, 1982.
Access- either by hopping across the rocks when (the tide is out) opposite the table and chairs on the Shady Side, or follow the map. The first 3 routes are on the left uphill section of the cliff. Bolt belays on top of main cliff.
Bolingbroke 20m 22 The thin corner to horizontal break/roof. You can escape here by stepping across left to ledge or go left and continue up chimney for pitch 2. McMahon, Ling, 1982.
Body Extraction 20m 22 A better version of the above climb. Instead of escaping at break/roof, keep going up past a U-bolt, then some gear and ledges to more bolts. Fox, Bissett, 1997.
Bonking in Kombis 10m 23 Arête and shallow corner on the downstream end. 2 eye-bolts and small cams. DBB. Fox, Munro, Povey, 1995.
Gabriel 12m 17 Twin crack/corner on the bottom left of the Gabriel Buttress. McMahon, Burnett, Mallinson, 1973.
Don't Look at the Mantelpiece When You Poke the Fire 12m 19 Face and crack system right of Third Uncle. Deka, Ling, McMahon, Smith, 1980.
Cashel 12m 15 Climb up 3m and traverse upstream 10m from the DBB above Third Uncle. Climb the off-width crack with a FH on the right and a loose chockstone which faces downstream. McMahon, Talbot, 1975.
Lost in Space 14m 21 10m upstream from the DBB and 3m right of Cashel is a small roof. Climb up this to a thin crack/corner system leading to an overlap and finger crack beyond. Parsons, Deka, 1981.
Ornithologist 26m 15 Crack behind tree to ledge then up the next tier on the right to the chimney/off-width crack. Hamilton, Smith, 1981.
Loose Money, Juice Money 20m 17 Up main crack in the centre of the buttress to the top. Smith, McMahon, Cover, 1980. It is possible to traverse left at the start of the off-width into another crack at about 18
Son of Man 12m 20 Up left trending flake to arete, sparse protection but excellent climbing. Narkowicz, Kearnes, Ng, 1985
Hand in Glove 10m 21 Climb the large pillar 4m right of Son of Man, one carrot only and a cosmetic wire. Ng, 1990.
Chicken Shit Variant 13m 19 Climb Cowardice to the crack below the roof. Step left onto the face and crank the spaced face holds up and left past one fixed hanger to the #1 cam crack. De Cesare, Jones Oct/2003.
Spiritual Warfare 15m 26 5Þ The arête right of Cacodaemon. Climb Mendelt's Route to the first bolt and then move left to the arête past 4 more bolts to DBB. Difficult to avoid stepping onto MR at times but worthwhile if you can. Narkowicz 2001.
Prince Hamlet 10m 23 Thin crack 1m right of Mendelt's Route. Originally done with a piton. McMahon, Smith, 1982.
Expiation 9m 21 Up crack to flake clearing vegetation and dirt as you go. McMahon, Martin, Mohler, 1982.
About half way down to Gabriel Buttress from the top (or halfway to the zig-zag track from the bottom) is a Pinnacle with a few bolted lines on it. This is it. DBB on top.
Hot For Teacher 10m 14 On the down stream side of the pinnacle is an easy line to the top. Its really only worthwhile as a means to get to the top if you want to top-rope the other lines. Bissett, French, 1997
The Delightful Giggle of Schoolgirls 10m 22 Þ On the downhill face of the pinnacle. Follow the bolts. DBB. Bissett, 1997.
Schoolgirl's Secret Pleasure Spot 10m 26 4Þ The upstream line of 4 bolts. Start from the right then go straight up. DBB. Fox, 1997.
Uphill and slightly right of the above routes is a slabby looking piece of rock. This is Six-pack Slab and the following two climbs are there.
Six-Pack 10m 22 3Þ "'Cos it ain't no fuckin' slab", said the delusional first ascensionist. The right line of 3 bolts. DBB. Nichols, Fox, 1997.
About 50m upstream from Gabriel Buttress or where you cross the river when the tide is out are two separate pillars of rock. The downstream one being the taller and pointier of the two.
Hot Tips From Bisso 8m 24 The downstream pinnacle up past 2 bolts to the crack above and a DBB. Fox and Bissett, 2001.
The Dum Arm 9m 24 3Þ Down and right 10m from HTFB is a line of 3 bolts that go to a DBB. Fox and Bissett 2001.
Access- About 100m upstream from Gabriel Buttress, almost where you cross the river when the tide is in, is a small pinnacle almost hidden by the trees.
Vision of Hope 8m 23 Through the overhang right of Tithog past 2 bolts and a 1.5 cam to a DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.
Ling's Slant 10m 19 Start up the crack facing the river then go right around the arête and into the slant. Ling, Lamb, McMahon, 1982.
Another 50m upstream from Ling's Slant is the last passable piece of rock before the river bends around to the Tea Room Cliffs.