Bluff River

The Bluff River Gorge, north of Buckland, has a bunch of OK sandstone boulders. The area has potential for at least 50 problems, but a fair bit of cleaning is required. Unfortunately the lichen is already starting to come back on some of the boulders - the area needs much more traffic.

From Hobart drive to Sorell and then take the East Coast Highway towards Orford. At Buckland turn left and drive 12.8km. Turn right on the first road after the road becomes gravel. Drive 1.2km down this road to where a sandy track goes right. Head down the sandy track for 1.4km. Ignore the first scrappy bits of rock on the left, and go another 100-200m to where you can see some decent sized boulders down to the left, which should be the Trench area. You can park right above the climbing, after about an hours driving from Hobart.

The Trench Area

The Trench can be found just below where you park.
GPS : 0554996mE 5292872mN (GDA 94)

Trench Top Wall

1. V0 (Stand)

2. V0 (Stand)

Slab left of flake

3. V0 (Stand)

4. V0 (Stand)

Featured slab

To the right is a steeper, higher slab.

1. V4 (Stand)

Further right is another clean slab.

1. VE (Stand)

Slab just right of tree

2. Red Raw V2 (Stand)

Start as for no 4 and traverse leftwards across the slab to finish up no 1.

3. Pinch Me V3 (Stand)

Up face left of tree to top out on bizarre pinches

4. VE (Stand)

Slab right of tree on knobs

Radiator Boulder

This small free standing boulder is down the hill and across from the previous problems. Needs some more cleaning.

1. V0 (Stand)

Slab left of arete

2. The Radiator V1 (SDS)

Up through bulge

Smelly Shoe Boulder

The squat boulder 100 metres past the Radiator boulder.

1. V3 (SDS)

Start on flats. Up on ears.

The Wasp Boulder

The Wasp Boulder is the large free standing boulder that forms the bottom wall of the Trench. The first problems are in the Trench.

1. V0 (Stand)

2. Stench Trench V2 (Stand)

This face is to the right and through the gap.

1. V3/4 (Stand)

Just right of arete on small holds, up to break and top out.

2. V? (Stand)

Project - very thin slab

V5 (Stand)

Face directly opposite no 1. on small holds without using the left arete. Move right slightly to top out next to the tree.

This face is the bottom side of the Wasp Boulder.

1. Hornet's Nest V4 (Stand)

Project - Start at the big knob 2m left of the arete and traverse the boulder rightwards to finish up no. 5, quite sustained.

2. V? (Stand)

Project - Knobs 1m left of the arete.

3. V? (Stand)

Project - Follow the knobs to the top 1m right of arete.

4. V1 (Stand)

Go up. Top could be cleaner.

5. V2 (Stand)

Up on knobs.

Fly Boulder

This is the long low boulder to the right of the Wasp Boulder.

1. V2 (Stand)

2. V3 (SDS)

3. V3 (SDS)

Bushfire Boulder Area

From the Trench Area head south across the hill for 100-150 metres to find a group of about 6 free standing boulders.
GPS : 0555105mE 5292830mN (GDA 94)