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Hey Tas climbing folk - hope you're all doing well. Not quite sure how to get this directly onto the new route page as my Forum link doesn't work, so here it is. These are a few note worthy routes done whilst in Tas. I've finally managed to work out how to edit and have added these to the guide pages, but do not know how to update the photo/topos etc (see Tetragrammaton photo topo).


Tetragrammaton Buttress - Freycinet

Fodiator   43m  27    ***      (Andrew [Squib] Cubbon & Lizzy Oh, July 2017)

An excellent route. Quality climbing on impeccable rock, in one of the most exposed positions at Freycinet.

Start as for ‘Exocet’:

  1. 18m   18 - Climb up No More Mr Nice Guy to the left traverse line, but instead continue up and then build a gear belay at a comfortable stance in the corner.
  2. 25m   27 – Continue up the steep arête of Exocet until it reaches the roof. Instead of traversing right, place some bomber gear and blast straight up just right of the arête.

After some tricky moves, the difficulty eases and is protected by good RPs and wires. Move left and up the arête.

 

All gear was placed on lead after top rope/self-belay rehearsals (full rack from RPs & small cams to no. 3 Camelot). An old carrot bolt was removed prior to the ascent to provide a pure trad route on the second pitch. For a more pumpy excursion, but with bolts, climb Garry’s excellent route ‘Down Under’ (25), as an alternative first pitch.

 

 

 

Lego Buttress – Freycinet

 

Let Loose the Kraken   40m   23?   **         (Andrew [Squib] Cubbon & Toby ??????? Feb 2018)

 

A fantastic line of two varied, but equally difficult pitches (if you like that sort of thing!).

 

Start 10m right of ‘Lego’, in the obvious corner with left to right rising crack, capped by a large roof.

 

  1. 18m   23 – Climb the finger crack in the corner up to the 3m roof. Plug some gear and monkey around to the ledge on the left. Catch your breath and continue up the crack on the right to large ledge. Traverse left to belay on the spacious ledge below the ominous crack above.
  2. 22m   23 – Up the striking crack, which starts as hands and finishes as a squeeze chimney. A great fight!

All gear was placed on lead. Top pitch was rehearsed on top rope/self-belay. Gear required: from small cams to no.6 (thanks Andrew Geeves) and big bros (thanks Andrew Martin). More big stuff would have been good, but sane enough with 1 x no.6 and 2 x big bros.

(Climbing on the top pitch felt like grade 27 to me, but people who can actually climb off-width’s, like Toby, reckon more like 23! 2nd ascensionist can confirm grade….)

 

 

Hazards Main Wall

 

Full Sail Ahead   36m   22   *      (Andrew [Squib] Cubbon & Isaac Lethborg, Oct 2017)

 

A good line with good climbing on nice rock, but the second half is very poorly protected and higher up falling does not become an option, hence the lack of another star. Could be top-roped from the ‘Full Sail’ anchors.

 

Start as for ‘Full Sail’:

 

  1. 36m    22 – Climb the straight line of ‘Full Sail’ without moving left at any point. Difficult moves over the bulge with poor pro leads to a delicate, un-protectable corner. Tip toe your way up this with increasing trepidation until your first gear just below the anchors.

Ascent was done ground up, placing what little gear there was on lead. Slightly terrifying!

 

 

Carp Bay Point Pinnacle

Three routes were climbed on the obvious ‘pinnacle’ – a large boulder capped with another boulder on the ridge running down to Carp Bay Point, clearly visible from Sleepy Bay. A bit of a novelty and the summit was reached via the tree!

 

Amber Gambler   13m   24                   (Andrew [Squib] Cubbon, Dean Rollins, Lizzy Oh 2016?)

A fairly serious slabby pitch with delicate thin climbing up the obvious blunt arête. The only gear is found at around 7m (bomber cams up to no.2). Crux is above this, but below is probably 22ish.

Gear was placed on lead, after top rope rehersal.

 

Deano’s Red Line   10m  16        Up wide crack a few meters right of arete        (Dean Rollins, Lizzy Oh & Squib 2016?)

Lizzie’s Green a go go    12m  15       Up crack just right of arete. At horizontal, traverse left and off     (Lizzy Oh, Dean Rollins & Squib 2016?)

 

 

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9 Comments

  1. Thanks. I renamed this to be the 2019 new routes thread given it was the first one for the year.

    Here are about 8 more, at a new area at sand river: North Ridge

    And Mike Hitchcock has done the low traverse at Sphinx's Nose - Hushed By An Angel, giving it V6/7

    1. Ha, thanks Jon (smile) Refers to a myth surrounding the philtrum (small depression under the nose). Happy crimping!

       

       

  2. New route, Crystal Palace go up the gully left of Crystal Laces, climb up the left wall in the chimney then up through the roof and onto a ramp then up the headwall to the top. Trad gear to about half height. Two bolt brackets and top anchors.

    Pensioners Road 17 Dennis Kearnes Peter Webb  08/01/2019

  3. New route Crystal Palace. Go up the gully left of Crystal Laces. Climb up the blocky face to an overhang, clip the bolts and pull through the roof (crux)  onto a slabby finish. Natural gear, 4 fixed hangers and 2 bolt belays on top.

    Ready or Knot 21  Michael Fox, Dennis Kearnes, Peter Webb. 02/02/2019

     

     

  4. Just did a new route on the Columns. Originally found by Deano a few years ago. New hardest pure trad route on the mountain!

     

    Duckling       30m      26/27 R      **

    The line just left of Killer Canary. Up corner crack via. stems and laybacks to a flared crack on the face. Awesome but runout climbing past fiddly gear leads to a short flared crack before joining Killer Canary after it's traverse.

    Small offset Aliens pretty much essential to protect adequately.

    You can start from the grassy ledge at wide 16ish but it's not that great, a small ledge about 12m up is comfy and avoids it. Not sure on grade, I'll wait until someone else does it!

    FFA. Alex Hartshorne - Feb 19

    1. cool, nice one. 

      could you draw it over the top of the existing "Hakea Area" topo for me so I can put it in? And is the line of Killer Canary correct on that?

      What's peoples opinions on adding the R / X modifiers to routes? We don't really have them anywhere in the existing guides

  5. Hey Jon!

     

    Yeah, it's actually quite a good one. Refreshingly independant until it joins Killer Canary.

    I like the R & X ratings. It at a glance informs of the routes approximate severity. It's always nice to have a detailed description but what if any future climbers don't want so much beta? I don't really mind!

     

    With Killer Canary I'm a little unsure as I've only done it once with Deano. I guess Mr Parsons did it as described but I skipped the first 15m by starting on the big ledge, then climbed to the top. I see no reason to stop before the traverse as it would complicate gear, drag, downclimbing etc.