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There's a new anchor on the right hand end. Placed yesterday so glue will be dry by now, go nuts on it. Should ease the congestion up that end.

Simon (smile)

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6 Comments

  1. What would peoples think of another bolt (and anchor?) being added to Anaphylaxis? It seems that the majority of people top rope this route, if it had another bolt to remove the run out then it would be a lot safer!  But then I know I am a bit of a wuss...

  2. Hi Ben

    This route is fine, its been lead by hundreds of people.  Its perfect as it is.  As for the anchors its easy to top rope them from the ones above Suck Ethics like it has been done for 15 years

    happy climbing

    garry

    1. Adding a bolt to this would be be lowering the climb to your standard, which is not the best way to overcome the problem. Anaphylaxis is a classic and should remain Anaphylaxis. (Not just another over bolted route).

      On a side note: 

      Just because the "Drill" seems to be in fashion is the last few weeks doesn't mean we should be going crazy with it. Drills/bolts have a powerful impact on our sport and need to be used with caution.....

      If in doubt run it out!

      Jake

  3. Falling isn't unsafe. I've taken that fall on Anaphylaxis and it's fine. Neither Anaphylaxis or Suck Ethics need another bolt in my optionion.

  4. Cool beans, I'll toughen up :)

  5. Simon Young AUTHOR

    But let's also remember how the routes were first climbed before we get too upset about the whole bolts lowering standards rabble rabble rabble....

    I can see what you mean Ben, that if/when one of those jugs at the top breaks, pray your belayers switched on!! But Im more than happy to trust my judgment up there! And a new anchor isn't really neccessary IMO!! (smile)

    I think it's more a case of "quality" being in fashion hehe (wink)