It is now about 3 years since we published the Guide and it is probably a good time to undertake a brief review. If you have any corrections, comments on grades or stars or updated route info, please post them on the Forum or let me, Jon Nermut, Al Adams, Phil Robinson or Dave Humphries know the next time you catch up with one of us. Many thanks.
Mt Wellington Guide Book Update
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January 2010 |
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F.S. As new Scarpa slippers
Mt. Wellington Guide Book Found + Toothcare at Cape Raul
Comments (12)
Jan 22
Jon Nermut says:
In the interests of armchair climbers everywhere heres the current debate: ...In the interests of armchair climbers everywhere heres the current debate:
(No, P.R.19)
(DH thought this was harder than All Systems Go).
( 20 P.R.)
(AA Is it the same grade as Res shuffle? Yes probably)
(DH I like the traditional 19, stops you getting too cocky)
(No, P.R.21)
(AA 2nd pitch is 21)
(P.R.21)
(AA 20)
(P.R. 17 with sandbag, not 18 with sandbag!)
(Is the off-width 18? Some avoid it and do a 19 variant)
(grade16/17?)
(AA 17)
(17 P.R.)
(Hard! P.R.)
(AA the chimney gives it the 20)
AA it’s more a 19 than Third Bird)
(AA Easier than the first pitch of Battle Cruiser 19)
Stars
(Debatable P.R.)
(AA Test piece 10cm crack give it 1)
(1 star P.R.)
(not sure P.R.)
(AA It IS awkward but it dishes up humility pie)
(AA Stars CAN be accrued for spankability)(DH thought this was worth 2 stars when I did it.)
(2stars P.R.)
(probably 3 stars, P.R.)
(2 P.R.)
(2 P.R.)
(3? P.R.)
( 2 P.R.)
( 1 P.R.) avoid last pitch
(2 P.R.)
(2 P.R.)
(2 P.R.)
(1 or 2? P.R.)
(was definitely 2 but not done for a long while) P.R. now ?
(Wasn’t on 1st ascent)
Definitely 2 stars!!! P.R.
(AA Oh Phil have you climbed it? there’s a fan club out there clamouring to climb it – people queue for it!)
(DH have done it a couple of times and enjoyed I’d vote for 3)
(AAPunk is test city 3 of the best I reckon)
(DH Enjoyed this every time I have done this 3)
(AA 3 is probably the go)
Jan 22
Will Bartlett says:
Just one little thing...at the top of Raspberry Jam and Crackers on Northern But...Just one little thing...at the top of Raspberry Jam and Crackers on Northern Buttress, the old tat that is being used as an abseil anchor has been replaced with a purple sling with a malion attached(3/12/09. Oh and also as an aside, the Gear Freak's stars - I have only seconded it, and got spanked, but a dirty moss-filled crack - is it worth 2 stars when compared to the likes of Second Coming? Just my two cents! Cheers!
Jan 25
Jed Parkes says:
"Lone Stranger" yes 19 "Alex's Thing" not 23, I thought 21 maybe 22 at most "Gre..."Lone Stranger" yes 19
Sounded like he thought it was 3 stars
"Alex's Thing" not 23, I thought 21 maybe 22 at most
"Great Bitch" 18 in the topo 19 in the description?
"Battle Cruiser" 18 in the topo 19 in the description?
Is there any more topo/description misprints? Worth checking before reprint.
I know Parkyn has replaced or added some rap stations up there, maybe talk to him get an update on that.
John repeated Wootang last week wouldn't stop raving about it
Thats all i can think of for now.
Oh yeah and flip the whole book around so you don't have to read it backwards, it's really confusing the way it's done right to left rather that left to right like everywhere else!
Jan 25
Kim Robinson says:
Anyone planning a relaxing afternoon on these two 18s is in for a surprise! ...Anyone planning a relaxing afternoon on these two 18s is in for a surprise!
Rick the Redneck 25m 18
Tired Clichés 20m 18
They're great climbs, I'd propose 19 for Rick (don't forget your tape gloves unless your skins tougher than mine!) and 19/20 plus 2 stars for Cliches.
Jan 26
Adam Donoghue says:
Did 'Once in a lifetime' last summer, thought it was 3 stars (great position, su...Did 'Once in a lifetime' last summer, thought it was 3 stars (great position, sustained and nice long pitch.)
Adam
Also, it would be awesome if the climbs read L to R like every other guide in the world. What was the thinking here in doing it as it currently is?
Jan 27
Kim Robinson says:
Met a couple of climbers who'd just done Brown Madonna on Sunday, their comments...Met a couple of climbers who'd just done Brown Madonna on Sunday, their comments were;
"I didn't really enjoy that climb, the chimney at the start was fun but there is no way a climb should get three stars if your pulling off loose flake whilst climbing it..."
We climbed "Holy Road" it was brilliant definately worth encouraging the hoards to hop on it - 2 or 3 stars for sure, my vote would be 3 stars.
Jan 27
Jon Nermut says:
My question is how can a dirty big chimney get 3 stars full stop?My question is how can a dirty big chimney get 3 stars full stop?
Jan 29
Al Adams says:
The "brown lady" is the subject of this wee missive. There have been many of y...The "brown lady" is the subject of this wee missive. There have been many of you who mock and belittle the qualities of our brown girl. This lady is for the discerning connoisseur who is seeking out an eleganct route with all the qualities of consistency, length of pitch and fantastic pro.
I'll admit she is daunting.... but when did looks count? Only when one's bum is wedged tightly between her cheeks working one's way skyward, do you get a sense of the real lady.... Personally, I don't reckon three stars are enough!
Jan 29
Jake Bresnehan says:
I am with Al on this one! Brown Madonna has to be one of my fav's up on the pip...I am with Al on this one!
Brown Madonna has to be one of my fav's up on the pipes for the grade.
daunting, but oh so so good.
if you haven't done it, go and show her some love!
In my guide book she has 15 stars.
Brown Lady will you marry me?
As for Holy Road. 3 Stars, but not is the same class and Brown Madonna.....
Jan 28
Mike Hitchcock says:
text deleted.text deleted.
Jan 28
Mike Hitchcock says:
Grades and stars are a hot topic, but pretty subjective... How about making the ...Grades and stars are a hot topic, but pretty subjective... How about making the guide more user friendly? eh eh? For instance...
Organizing the index, so you can tell what is on the pipes, lost world, fern tree, etc. ?
What route is a sport climb, trad etc.?
Put in how many bolts sports climbs have??
Better descriptions for the aproaches?
How bout it? Or is it more important if a climb is 17 or 18?
MIKE
Jan 28
Tony McKenny says:
Great ideas, Mike, just what we are after. If you have time to do the re-writes...Great ideas, Mike, just what we are after.
If you have time to do the re-writes e.g. improved descriptions of the approaches, numbers of bolts ( some climbs have them already noted, including nos. of quick draws needed) etc., can you send them into Jon? Thanks, Mike.
Any other things you want to do to improve the usage?
(BTW, Sports Climbs are marked as such in the main text already, but not in the index - a possible change there as well. Maybe Jon would have the time to re-do that as well or maybe someone else could also volunteer to help?).