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It is now about 3 years since we published the Guide and it is probably a good time to undertake a brief review. If you have any corrections, comments on grades or stars or updated route info, please post them on the Forum or let me, Jon Nermut, Al Adams, Phil Robinson or Dave Humphries know the next time you catch up with one of us. Many thanks.

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12 Comments

  1. In the interests of armchair climbers everywhere heres the current debate:

    Name

    1964

    1981

    1992

    2007

    2010 ?

    Comments

    Sideshow

     

     

    19

    19

    18

    Over graded -- 17? 
    (No, P.R.19)
    (DH thought this was harder than All Systems Go).

    Lone Stranger,

     

    19

    19

    20

    19

    Over graded at 20
    ( 20 P.R.)
    (AA Is it the same grade as Res shuffle? Yes probably)
    (DH I like the traditional 19, stops you getting too cocky)

    Tartarus

     

    21

    20

    21

    20

    Over graded at 21
    (No, P.R.21)
    (AA  2nd pitch is 21)

    Resurrection Shuffle

     

    20

    20

    21

    20

    Over graded at 20
    (P.R.21)
    (AA 20)

    The Cordoban

    Hard Severe (same as the Shield,  now 20)

    15

    15

    18

    18?

    Originally under graded
    (P.R. 17 with sandbag, not 18 with sandbag!)
    (Is the off-width 18? Some avoid it and do a 19 variant)

    Xenophenese

     

    16

    16

    17

    16?

    Now very protectable
    (grade16/17?)
    (AA 17)

    Pooh Corner

    Severe/Hard Severe

    14

    16

    17

    ?

    Originally under graded
    (17 P.R.)

    Firebrand

     

    17 Originally aided

    17

    20

    19?

    Anyone repeated it recently? 
    (Hard! P.R.)

    Icarus

    Mild VS, with aid

    19

    19

    20

    20

    One or two dissenting opinions that it should be 19
    (AA the chimney gives it the 20)

    Reluctance

     

     

    20

    19

    20?

    (P.R. 20

    Shelter from the Storm

     

    17

    17

    18

    17?

    (P.R. 17)

    Rheumatism

     

     

    18

    18

    19

    (Definitely 19 P.R.)

    Opthalmia

     

    18

    18

    19

    18?

    (P.R. 18)
    AA it’s more a 19 than Third Bird)

    Space Cowboy

     

     

    20

    19

    20?

    (P.R. 20)
    (AA Easier than the first pitch of Battle Cruiser 19)

    Lost Arrow

     

     

    16

    16

    ?

    Likely harder

      

    Stars

    Name

    1981

    1992

    2007

    Suggested for 2010?

    Comments

    Johnson’s Knob

    2

    2

    1

    0

    Climbing not that brilliant

    Suzerain

     

    1

    1

    2

    Sustained climbing, good rock, technically interesting (2 star)

    Built like a Donkey

     

    0

    0

    1

    Quality good climbing
    (Debatable P.R.)
    (AA Test piece 10cm crack give it 1)

    Shelter from the Storm

     

    0

    0

    1

    Quality climbing
    (1 star P.R.)

    All those Madmen

     

    2

    2

    1

    Okay but not brilliant
    (not sure  P.R.)

    Good Behaviour

     

    2

    2

    1

    Good but not brilliant
    (AA It IS awkward but it dishes up humility pie)

    Gear Freak

     

    0

    2

    1

    Over rated?
    (AA Stars CAN be accrued for spankability)(DH thought this was worth 2 stars when I did it.)

    We can Jam Too

     

     

    1

    0

    Over rated?

    Serendipity

     

     

    2

    ?

    Anyone repeated it yet? 
    (2stars P.R.)

    Best Route in the Gorge

     

     

    1

    ? …

    Rumour has it, not so good. Anyone repeated it recently?

    Catacomb

     

    1

    1

    0

    Anyone repeated it yet.

    Centre Stage

     

     

    2 (originally 3)

    ?

    Anyone repeated it yet?
    (probably 3 stars, P.R.)

    Centre Stage

     

     

    2

    ?

    Anyone repeated it yet?

    Line Tamer

     

     

    2

    ?

    Anyone repeated it yet? 
    (2 P.R.)

    Telopea

     

     

    2

    ?

    Anyone repeated it yet?
     (2 P.R.)

    Cheers to Dave

     

     

    2 (originally 3)

    ?

    Anyone repeated it yet? 
     (3? P.R.)

    Legionary

     

     

    2

    ?

    Anyone repeated it yet? 
     ( 2 P.R.)

    Slow Combustion

    2

    1

    2

    1

    Not that good !
    ( 1 P.R.) avoid last pitch

    Static Journey

     

     

    2

    ?

    Anyone repeated it yet? 
    (2 P.R.)

    Dynamic Journey

     

     

    2

    ?

    Anyone repeated it yet?
     (2 P.R.)

    Zoloft

     

     

    2

    ?

    Anyone repeated it yet?
     (2 P.R.)

    Ano’s Sojurn

    1

    1

    1

    2

    A test piece?
    (1 or 2?  P.R.)

    Dag on a Crag

     

     

    1

    ?

    Anyone repeated it yet?

    Colour of Magic

     

     

    3

    ?

    Anyone repeated it yet?

    Wootang

     

     

    3

    ?

    Anyone repeated it yet?

    Five Nil

     

     

    2

    ?

    Anyone repeated it yet?

    Breaker Spur

    1

    1

    1

    0

    Anyone repeated it recently?
     (was definitely 2 but not done for a long while) P.R. now ?

    Celecia

     

    1

    1

    0

    Marginal and loose…
    (Wasn’t on 1st ascent)

    Face it

    1

    2

    2

    1?

    One star?
    Definitely 2 stars!!! P.R.

    Mind's Eye

     

     

    2

    ?

    Anyone repeated it recently?

    Mildly Amused

     

     

    3

    ?

    Anyone repeated it recently?

    Completion Backward Principle

     

     

    3

    ?

    Anyone repeated it recently?

    Once in a Lifetime

     

     

    2

    ?

    Anyone repeated it recently?

    Early Bird

     

     

    2

    ?

    Anyone repeated it recently?

    The Fifth Elephant

     

     

    3

    ?

    Anyone repeated it recently?

    Cheshire Cat

     

     

    3

    ?

    Anyone repeated it recently?

    Brown Madonna

     

    2

    3

    2?

    2, Definitely not 3, who climbs it? Al and Garn, but who else? (P.R.)
    (AA Oh Phil have you climbed it? there’s a fan club out there clamouring to climb it – people queue for it!)
    (DH have done it a couple of times and enjoyed I’d vote for 3)

    Punk

     

    2

    3

    2?

    2 (not that good! P.R. )
    (AAPunk is test city 3 of the best I reckon)
    (DH Enjoyed this every time I have done this 3)

    Moments of Inerta

     

     

    1

    0/1?

    Unpleasant pitch1Pitch2 worth 1 star

    Tartarus

    3

    3

    2

    3?

    Definitely 3stars(P.R.)
    (AA 3 is probably the go)

    Pooh Corner

     

    0

    1

    ?

    0/1? P.R. Avoid last pitch

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  2. Just one little thing...at the top of Raspberry Jam and Crackers on Northern Buttress, the old tat that is being used as an abseil anchor has been replaced with a purple sling with a malion attached(3/12/09. Oh and also as an aside, the Gear Freak's stars - I have only seconded it, and got spanked, but a dirty moss-filled crack - is it worth 2 stars when compared to the likes of Second Coming? Just my two cents! Cheers!

  3. "Lone Stranger" yes 19
    "Alex's Thing" not 23, I thought 21 maybe 22 at most
    "Great Bitch" 18 in the topo 19 in the description?
    "Battle Cruiser" 18 in the topo 19 in the description?
    Is there any more topo/description misprints? Worth checking before reprint.
    I know Parkyn has replaced or added some rap stations up there, maybe talk to him get an update on that.
    John repeated Wootang last week wouldn't stop raving about it (smile) Sounded like he thought it was 3 stars
    Thats all i can think of for now.
    Oh yeah and flip the whole book around so you don't have to read it backwards, it's really confusing the way it's done right to left rather that left to right like everywhere else!

  4. Anyone planning a relaxing afternoon on these two 18s is in for a surprise!
    Rick the Redneck 25m 18
    Tired Clichés 20m 18
    They're great climbs, I'd propose 19 for Rick (don't forget your tape gloves unless your skins tougher than mine!) and 19/20 plus 2 stars for Cliches.

  5. Did 'Once in a lifetime' last summer, thought it was 3 stars (great position, sustained and nice long pitch.)
    Adam

    Also, it would be awesome if the climbs read L to R like every other guide in the world. What was the thinking here in doing it as it currently is?

  6. Met a couple of climbers who'd just done Brown Madonna on Sunday, their comments were;

    "I didn't really enjoy that climb, the chimney at the start was fun but there is no way a climb should get three stars if your pulling off loose flake whilst climbing it..."

    We climbed "Holy Road" it was brilliant definately worth encouraging the hoards to hop on it - 2 or 3 stars for sure, my vote would be 3 stars.

    1. My question is how can a dirty big chimney get 3 stars full stop?

      1. The "brown lady" is the subject of this wee missive. There have been many of you who mock and belittle the qualities of our brown girl. This lady is for the discerning connoisseur who is seeking out an eleganct route with all the qualities of consistency, length of pitch and fantastic pro.

        I'll admit she is daunting.... but when did looks count? Only when one's bum is wedged tightly between her cheeks working one's way skyward, do you get a sense of the real lady.... Personally, I don't reckon three stars are enough!

        1. I am with Al on this one!

          Brown Madonna has to be one of my fav's up on the pipes for the grade.
          daunting, but oh so so good.
          if you haven't done it, go and show her some love!

          In my guide book she has 15 stars.

          Brown Lady will you marry me?

          As for Holy Road. 3 Stars, but not is the same class and Brown Madonna.....

  7. Grades and stars are a hot topic, but pretty subjective... How about making the guide more user friendly? eh eh? For instance...

    Organizing the index, so you can tell what is on the pipes, lost world, fern tree, etc. ?

    What route is a sport climb, trad etc.?

    Put in how many bolts sports climbs have??

    Better descriptions for the aproaches?

    How bout it? Or is it more important if a climb is 17 or 18?

    MIKE

  8. Tony McKenny AUTHOR

    Great ideas, Mike, just what we are after.
    If you have time to do the re-writes e.g. improved descriptions of the approaches, numbers of bolts ( some climbs have them already noted, including nos. of quick draws needed) etc., can you send them into Jon? Thanks, Mike.
    Any other things you want to do to improve the usage?
    (BTW, Sports Climbs are marked as such in the main text already, but not in the index - a possible change there as well. Maybe Jon would have the time to re-do that as well or maybe someone else could also volunteer to help?).