At 5.30am on Sunday the 30th of November a ragged bag of misfits; Jake "the snake" Bresnehan, Kim "office boy" Robinson, Doug "the bold and the beautiful" McConnell and Deano "rodriguez" Rollins, left Hobart for a day trip to Cape Raoul.

All of us had done Pole Dancer before, so the plan for the day was just to try and head out to the end of the Cape and have a little bo-peak at some rocks, and then maybe climb some of them. We were particularly interested in checking out the pillar at the end of the cape, and seeing if there was a route to do up there.

A bit of background info:

In the CCT Circulars there are a lot of old trip reports to Cape Raoul. On one such trip, the team went out along the ridge, right out to the base of the Last Pillar (it is about 15m high and starts from a wide ledge about 50m up). They realised that to get to the top, they would have to drill a bolt ladder (like they had previously done for one of the other pillars), and so did not do it. They thought that they weren't good enough to do it without bolts - and so they walked away.

So i suppose that they had hoped that any future parties would give the same consideration to that particular piece of rock (no bolt ladder just for the sake of aiding to the top). And ever since reading that, i too had always hoped that if someone went out to try it, that they too didn't put any bolts in it (not that there's anything wrong with bolts in general, especially at Cape Raoul) - just to respect the decision and efforts of the previous party.

That pillar has been just sitting there for sooooooo long.
Obviously, the best way to make sure no one goes out there and bolt it is to go out there and do it without bolts first!

The perfect day:

We made it to the far side of the Wedding Cake without any issues and were then about to head along and back up to the ridge to continue the involved scramble out to the end. But a spur of the moment decision saw us rapping off the western side of the ridge to the shore platform below. Within 10 minutes we were all standing in the sun at the base of the cliffs at the very end of the cape on an unusually calm day. After saying hi to a couple of seals we turned our attention to climbing rocks.

We ended up climbing from seal level at the end of the cape to the very top of the very last pillar - three pitches (18, 22, 24) and zero bolts. A bit of everything... squeeze chimneying, hand jamming, finger locking, and a bit of face and arête climbing to top it all off. There is even a cool gap to jump across on the scramble out as well.

Doug took the honours (first class!) up the final pillar - a mighty fine lead. In the end, all four of us were up there on top at the same time, each of us in shock at what had just happened...

Another line bites the dust!

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19 Comments

  1. You forgot to say that I found a GOLD PITON!

    1. Looks like one of dad's old pin's... where was it?

      1. Under the rainbow!!

        From the end. After a counter balance rap off the last pillar, a jump (like the tomb jump on mt welligton) a 5 meter rap. It was just sitting there looking at me saying "Pick me up, and take me straight to your pool room!!".

  2. Ur a bit slow, i did that back in the nineties...just kidding, sensational work guys i love it! I'd also say u have ticked off one of the holy grails of tasmanian climbing... and in inspirational style. I've got a feeling u'll be heading back out that way soon. I can't wait to see some pictures etc.
    dj

    1. *********************************

      Love ur ATTITUDE , boys !!!

      (smile)

      Here's ALL the pillars , in 1898 , before the Navy let rip with the ' target practice ' big guns ...

      http://images.statelibrary.tas.gov.au/tasimg/nov1999/normal/AUTAS001126076322.jpg

      ***********************************

      1. Here's ur next project 4 the summer ...

        http://www.david-noble.net/Tasmania/POW81/PrinceOfWalesMenu.html

        The 1st ascent of The Mighty South Pillar of Diamond Peak

        Leave the drill kit at home and Aunty Sally will be stoked off her t#ts !!!

        (big grin)

      2. The Royal Navy, that was. Probably McKenny's relations, putting in a few extra cracks for him. The date of this vandalism (WW1 I think) ties in with this theory.

      3. I think artists are prone to exaggeration when it comes to cliffs... just like the old drawings and paintings of Hobart with the Organ Pipes in the background.

      4. In fact i don't recall seeing any sign of the fresh dollerite look you'd expect from pillars broken in the last 100 years. Where does this theory come from?

        1. There's a reference here (top of p 168):

          http://books.google.com.au/books?id=4uCGSfPEB2oC&pg=PA168&lpg=PA168&dq=%22cape+raoul%22+navy&source=web&ots=HJNiXMTKG1&sig=MXiSH7giG5vUqqbpTIG8uKg0FhA&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=1&ct=result#PPA168,M1

          Mind you, the author is quoting Kiernan, who probably first heard/read the story about the same time I did, but I can't remember where it comes from. I'll ask Kevin next time I see him.

  3. Does anyone know what happened to the cigarette commercial (featuring Lyle "topping out") that was filmed there in the early seventies?

  4. so what happened to the video deano? was looking forward to it

    1. dean rollins AUTHOR

      sorry jon, been pretty busy lately. hopefully ill get around to it eventually tho.

  5. Great article on this in the latest Rock. Some other tassie content too with news articles on Jake in Patagonia, Totem pole free aid route, and a short interview with Sam Edwards

  6. Hey John. Great site and great article in rock guys. Keep up the good work. Just one more article with tassie content. The Obituary to John Pawson who was one of the pioneers of Flinders Island climbing in the early 80s. They might have been vics/kiwis but hey flinders is still part of this mighty state (smile) Just thought id give it a mention.

    Anyway once again top site.

    Jono
    (ex but still partially attached Flinders Islander)

    1. not possible to completely detach from Flinders Island i say.
      I might be going back to Goose island Jono!
      dj

  7. Ben Walter is researching the reports of the Navy shelling Cape Rauol and is after any info about evidence any one has seen of shell damage etc out there. He says: "If any climbers are interested, you can assure them that it almost definitely happened - there is reference to it in an 1882 Mercury, concerned that a naval ship visiting the port would continue what had been a practice in the past."

    Anyone able to add information on evidence of damage etc?