I am not here for war.

This is a serious question.

I am looking at a Frenchmans area trip early next year. The Frenchmans region has seen the use of pins previously. I am aware of the Cap as being seen as a no drill space. What are local opinions of the use of other hammer in gear in the area on new routes.

Also I would be interested if no drill but hammered courage in the backpack gear (pins, heads) are viewed a suitable as emergency/survival opions ie. emergency and or planned rap anchors; gear for progess, going up, or seen as totally unsuitable in a modern context.

I am a believer of when in Rome.....(apart from days I feel like Hannibal).

Thanks Dave

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2 Comments

  1. Jon Nermut

    Hmmm, seems everybody here is a bit reluctant to start another flame war on fixed gear.

    My opinion is that pitons are ok to use on Frenchmans if there is nothing else, but should be avoided where possible, especially on established routes.

    I reckon if you are interested in putting up new aid routes, the potential for hard hooking and other clean aid would be enormous.

    1. David Filan AUTHOR

      Thanks Jon. I appreciate your answer, its close to my feelings but without starting a "flame war" I am very interested in others opinions. Frenchmans is a great chunk of rock with massive climbing potential especially when all the stone in the imediate vicinity is considered. It is also located in an amazing area worthy of protection from all sorts of things. For me it was love at first sight.

      Anyone hammered in the area? Comments?