Blog from December, 2007

Rysavy Ridge

If you are looking to climb Rysavy Ridge over the next little while it would be highly advisable to arrive in a vehicle you feel comfortable driving up the road and across the paddock in. Currently thistles cover the paddock and are waist to head high. Additionally, the buzzies are in full spate. Even with gaiters on, the walk through the paddock would be an unpleasant beginning to an otherwise excellent day out.

I think the current topo from Craglets for the Prow is a bit wrong, I think "The Prow" is the arete with the undercut base to the right of the marked routes, so Quadrella, Crank and Quartet must be numbers 2, 3 & 4 in the topo? Can anybody shed any light on this, and exactly where Gangabang goes?

The image that I will redraw the topo on is below, if anybody wants to draw lines on it and send it back to me.

The current topo is:

The routes described are:

The Prow

These routes are described in relation to the Prow, the prominent orange buttress on the point about 100m north of the Light Fingered Maddison wall. It is clearly visible from the top of White Water Wall. Best approached by walking down a gully just north of the Prow and then walking back along the shelves.
On the buttress south of the Prow, overhanging at the base with a slab on the right wall are the following (accidentally not marked on topo ):

Quadrella 18m 15
The crack on the arete, gained by climbing into the overhanging slot left of the arete and then stepping right onto the nose and up the arete. D, L.Stephenson, J, Marg Otlowski, Dec 90.

Crank 18m 20
Just right of the arete. Bouldery start and up the right diagonal crack. Back left to the horizontal break and up the seam just right of the arete. It's a bit contrived avoiding the easy crack on the left, but fun off the ground. D.Stephenson, J.Otlowski, Dec 90.

Quartet 18m 17
The slab right of the arete. Pull up on to the slab, climb to the horizontal break and head right up the ramp. D, L.Stephenson, J, Marg Otlowski, Dec 90.

2. The Prow 22m 20
The prominent orange capped arete, overhanging at base. Climb up to the left side of the buttress, move right, up the steep flake, to a stance on the nose. Climb a few feet up the left hand seam, step right across the slab, and follow the thin crack on the arete to the top. D.Stephenson, J & M. Otlowski, Dec 90.

3. Gangabang 22m 16
The wall right of The Prow. Climb a pillar and cracks to finish up thin cracks just right of The Prow arete (NB climbs marked 4 and 5 on topo don't exist). D.Stephenson, J & M.Otlowski, Dec 90.

The image for the new topo:

Looking for a lift...


Hope everybody had an enjoyable Christmas. I'm flying down to Hobart with my girlfriend tomorrow, if anybody is heading up to the Organ Pipes from the 29th to the 31st and would like some beer for giving us a lift then could you please contact me on 0438 634 964.



The limited edition guidebook to the world class crack climbing venue of Ben Lomond is due out in 2008. This comprehensive guide will be professionally designed with many full colour photos, topos, entertaining history and descriptions of all 325 routes on the mountain. Authors Bob McMahon and Gerry Narkowicz have a proven track record of publishing quality guidebooks and Ben Lomond will exceed them all. The guide is essentially written, but unfortunately, the Division of Sport and Recreation has knocked back our grant application for the second time, setting us back in our finances. To supplement our fundraising and help with up front printing costs, you can pre-purchase your copy at the discount price of $35 (includes postage). The more copies pre-sold will hasten the release date of the book. So if you want to see this guidebook out soon, send cheques for $35 made out to Climb Tasmania and mail to Climb Tasmania, 150 Frankford Highway Exeter, 7275 Tas along with your contact details and mailing address. Alternatively, direct deposit to Climb Tasmania's bank account. Email with your order, and I will provide banking details.

Cluen Tier Report

Another trip report. Our trip was not as intense as Jake and Garry's attempt at Deeper Water, but it was still pretty fun! Me and Dean Rollins went up north Sun-Tue and had a blast at the Cluen Tiers. Gerry N. was at the crag and said we were probably the only Hobart climbers who bothered to visit so I thought I would try to inspire some more activity at the Cluen. Unlike some areas up North like parts of the Gorge and Hillwood, the stars given in Gerry's guide to the Cluen Tiers are actually quite accurate. That should be nuff said if you look at the guide located here:

Its definitely a summer crag so if anyone is planning on heading north soon its worth the stop over. Just don't fret too much on the naming conventions and get cranking!
After climbing Seize the Day at Duck Reach on Sunday, the climbs we did at the Cluen:
Nicks 26 traverse- more like 25 with a techy/crimpy traverse and fun moves through roof.
The multipitch 21,23 on the left- Cool 21 chimney pitch to reachy 23 problems.
The long 22 to the right of this- good exposure on arete.
The 3 star 23 face climb on the main cliff- Awesome face climbing!
The 3 star 23 right of this. I thought 25(maybe cuz I fell!). Killer moves to the roof. Then a weird/hard crux...
Then finished with the 3 pitch climb that tops out on the main face. Awesome 21 traverse to one of the best 23 faces in Tas! Seriously good.

OK, so before you all queue up for Deeper Water, maybe try some training at the Cluen first!


Tyndall Mania!!
it's summer so why not!!!!
i have linked 3 videos of me and gary climbing at the tyndalls, which is on the west coast of tassie. the route we attemped was Deeper Waters, still unreapeted. it's 310 meters long and has some pritty hard pitches, with the first being the real deal and full value 48 meters of conglonerate slabby pebble pulling (it's hard)!. first graded 26 but after having tried it a few times and still haven't red pointed it i think it's more 27/8. it's 9 pitches and was first but up by Adam Donoghue and Garath Lewelian.
we did not free every pitch, but we decided on going for a ground up style rather than rapping the route. and sussing out the top pitches. so we will be back!!!
the first one day free ascent is still up for grabs!!!

see you out there

Part 1:

Part 2:

Part 3:

cheers jake

New Routes

I'll just start this thread to notify new routes as they get added into the online guides.

Here's the first one, courtesy of Dennis Kearnes, on Wonders of the Flesh buttress in the Gorge:

Fish Fingered Choir Girl 12m 19 4Þ
A couple of metres left of Noodle Armed Choir Boy. Climb the face, 4 fixed hangers, take a wire for the top moves if you want extra pro. DBB at the top. Dennis Kearnes, Michael Fox, 3/11/07.

Hillwood Tracks Cut

Have just cut the tracks to the various cliffs at Hillwood today. Have been doing this for the last 7 years and every summer I'm confronted with chest high thistles and nettles. Anyway, tracks to Rock Of Ages, Falcon Crag, Cave Rock, and Hidden Towers are cleared for your convenience and climbing pleasure. PLease note that first time visitors must phone Gerry Narkowicz (63301435)or Bob McMahon (63944225) to arrange access at the request of the landowner.

frenchmans hammer gear

I am not here for war.

This is a serious question.

I am looking at a Frenchmans area trip early next year. The Frenchmans region has seen the use of pins previously. I am aware of the Cap as being seen as a no drill space. What are local opinions of the use of other hammer in gear in the area on new routes.

Also I would be interested if no drill but hammered courage in the backpack gear (pins, heads) are viewed a suitable as emergency/survival opions ie. emergency and or planned rap anchors; gear for progess, going up, or seen as totally unsuitable in a modern context.

I am a believer of when in Rome.....(apart from days I feel like Hannibal).

Thanks Dave

In the Craglets guides, Roger was pretty adamant that the guides should always be written left to right. No matter what. No arguments.

Hence in the guides recently added, areas like the Gorge Shady Side, and Hazards Main Wall, read back to front, as you approach them R-L. The Star Factory was like this in Craglets, but is now R-L as Jake wrote it. The Mt Wellington guide is also R-L.

Roger's reasoning is that its much better to keep guidebooks consistent.

However I'm not convinced, and am thinking about re-ordering these two areas.

Thought I would do a little vote to gauge opinion on this. Please cast your vote below (you have to log in to vote).

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