Was up at Mt Amos on the weekend climbing RH Negative (classic, shame about the offwidth), and we noticed a bolted flake line just to the right of Incipience. Looked really good, was just wondering what it was. Anyone have any ideas?

Also, I noticed that the hanger on the second bolt of 'Wish She Were Mine' (that grade 19 bolted dyke thing next to the walking track) has been removed. Anyone know why? It looked like it was within 1/2 a metre of some gear placements. Maybe someone didn't like a bolt being next to gear, though to be honest the flake where the gear would go didn't look too great from the ground.

cheers
Cam

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5 Comments

  1. Gerry Narkowicz

    The line right of incipience is a 27/28 by Nick Hancock.

  2. Cam McKenzie AUTHOR

    Thanks Gerry

  3. Jon Nermut

    FYI - from the Craglets update:

    Mt Amos

    ***Catch 22  27  50m

    A varied and desperate climb up the hanging nose and groove right of Incipience. Featuring hard well protected pocket moves, as well as some major commitment in the final groove, it is one of the standout climbs of Freycinet.

    1. 15m  19 Move up to a ledge just right of Incipience, traverse right to a flake crack and climb this to a DBB below the nose.

    2. 35m  27 Climb the awkward crack and flake above, to crux moves into the open groove. Sustained climbing up this leads to a DBB on easier ground. All bolts.

    Heather & Nick Hancock  (Alt)  May 2006

     

    ***I wish She Were Mine  19  17m

    Around the corner to the right of Dog Style.  Follow the grey dyke past 7 bolts to rap point.  N Selby  12/6/2004.

    Project 22/3  17m

    Same start as I Wish she were mine, then go right, past 7 bolts to the same rap point. N Selby

  4. Cam McKenzie AUTHOR

    Thanks Jon, sounds as good as it looked, also sounds way too hard for me.

    Is the latest Craglets update available somewhere online? The one on this site doesn't seem to have Catch 22 in it (though it has "I wish she were mine" and the project next to it).
    cheers

    1. Jon Nermut

      All the craglets updates have now been merged into the online guides. There wasn't that much new stuff - mainly Lost Falls and a new route at Bare Rock.