<guide version="3" pagesize="500">
<header id="1" name="Fortescue Bay" autonumber="true" camping="Pleasant and well-equipped campsites exist right next to the beach at Fortescue Bay. There are toilets, cooking facilities and water, including showers (paid). For tent camping, the Banksia campground next to the beach is very good, with car and caravan camping available at the boat ramp further up the road. Camping is about $13 a night and you should book ahead with Parks in summer as it gets quite busy here, especially on weekends.<br/><br/>If you're heading out to climb at the Moai, Golden Pillar or Bivouac Bay Crag, consider camping at Bivouac Bay. There are good tent platforms, running water (creek) and a toilet, all in a secluded setting only 10-15 minutes from the climbs - the walk into the campsite is ~1 hour each way along an easy formed track. Camping here is also free.<br/><br/>Make sure to buy a valid Parks Pass." walk="Up to 1.5 hours" sun="Mixed sun and shade" rock="Coastal dolerite columns, pinnacles and sea-cliffs" intro="There are many cliffs around the serene Fortescue Bay. Undoubtedly, the prime attraction in the area are the triptych of dolerite spires; the Moai, the Candlestick, and the Totem Pole. Each is totally different from the other two, but they all possess an adventure-climbing flavour that adds to the appeal. These summits have retained an exclusiveness which is rare given the current popularity of rock-climbing, and a trip to any one of them is not just another day at the crags - but it is a day you will surely remember for a long time to come. <br/><br/>In addition to this, exposed and high-quality multi-pitch routes are abundant on the tall sea-cliffs at Cape Hauy and Cape Nola, and these offer some fantastic climbing. The more recently discovered Forgotten columns + BSSC displays higher quality rock than elsewhere on the peninsular, and splitter cracks on par with Ben Lomond but with all year access. <br/><br/>For those looking for a more relaxed experience, there are a number of well-setup and easily approached crags around the sheltered bay itself. These crags are about 15-20m high and have a friendly atmosphere." history="" acknowledgement="Original guide by Roger Parkyn, published in Craglets. The Safe House is by Evan Peacock, Sunny Gym Crag by Pete Steane, Canoe Bay Crag by Christoph Speer, Golden Pillar Area and Bivouac Bay Crag by Lang & Speer, Forgotten Columns by Speer, Jackson & L-R. Thanks to Dean Rollins, Peter McHugh and Mendelt Tillema for additional information. Candlestick update by Phil Robinson in 2018/19 with info and photos from Dave James, Chris(Basil) Rathbone, Chris(Ditto) Rathbone, Mendelt Tillema, Lyle Closs, Sebastien Meffre, Dave Gray, Tim Exley, Grant Dixon, Doug Bruce, Jon Nermut and Garry Phillips." access="Fortescue Bay is about a 1.5 hr drive from Hobart. From the city, head to Sorell and take the Arthur Highway towards Port Arthur. The turn-off for Fortescue Bay is on the left, about 3km past Taranna and 4km before Port Arthur. From here there's about 12km of unsealed Forestry road to Fortescue Bay. All up, about 100km from the city centre. As with most roads in Tasmania, be careful of wildlife from dusk to dawn, as they seem to enjoy jumping into the middle of the road at unsuitable times. All of the spires and routes can be done in a day from Hobart. Choose a day when the swell forecast is low - information is available by checking the Bureau of Meteorology's website at: http://www.bom.gov.au/tas/index.shtml"/>
<text id="284" class="heading2">Safety</text>
<text id="285" class="text">It is worth noting there have been a increasing number of rescues and accidents involving climbers in the modern era, some of which involved inexperience as a factor, so it is important to factor in the exposed and inaccessible nature of all the spires in particular, which makes self-rescue much more difficult. The grade does not always reflect the serious nature of some of the climbing here - so read descriptions carefully and plan well. The candle tick and totem pole are not a good choice for your first abseil in sea cliff as the logistics here are challenging on a number of fronts.</text>
<text id="279" class="heading2">Quality</text>
<text id="280" class="text">Quality ratings of routes are always subjective, and the nature of climbing in the Fortescue area varies considerably - how could you compare any route with an icon such as the Tote? Keeping this in mind, we have sort of thought..<br/><br/>3*** - A classic. A must-do climb.<br/>2** - Highly recommended.<br/>1* - A good route that's worth doing.<br/>0 - Average, worse, or unknown.</text>
<text id="288" class="heading2">Ethics & Environment</text>
<text id="289" class="text">The Tasman National Park is a relatively recent addition to the Tasmanian Reserve Estate. The use of fixed anchors in the park historically precedes the designation of the area as a National Park in 1999, where the National Park was then listed broadly as a State Reserve. The current management plan stipulates that 'A ‘clean climbing’ ethic/practice involving the use of lead climbing techniques and removable climbing protection will be encouraged'. The proliferation of fixed anchors in the area and park more broadly is discouraged, as it can degrade the climbing experience. The focus should always be on establishment and maintenance of high quality routes and crags.<br/><br/>Fixed anchor use for climbing across the Tasman Peninsula varies. The climbing around Fortescue Bay and Cape Hauy / Nola is primarily focused around traditional climbing. Crack lines are regular, and the predominant dolerite is reliable for the use of trad gear. Sport routes are sparse, and are usually limited to occasional, very high quality routes. Mixed traditional climbs are generally accepted as routes can often follow separated crack systems between stretches of face climbing. Abseil anchors are placed discretely, often shared between routes, and only installed when required to provide access to routes or reduce inadvertant damage to vegetation at the top of cliffs.<br/><br/>Cutting new tracks is discouraged, as there is the risk of spreading disease (phytopthora) and creating issues with erosion and the obvious impacts on vegetation. Spread out in the bush if needed to access a cliff off established trails, and don't publicise route access outside of regular climbing groups (e.g. social media). The modern era has seen increasing impacts on climbing areas as a result of visitation from other user groups.<br/><br/>IN SHORT:<br/>Please use gear wherever possible if establishing new routes, don't cut new tracks and limit the use of fixed anchors to high-value climbs or discrete access only. Please consult widely with the crag stewards if considering the installation or modification of fixed anchors.</text>
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<point pid="6" description="The Safehouse Crag" latitude="-43.13991" longitude="147.99930" easting="581266" northing="5223163" zone="55G" code="FTS024"/>
<point pid="7" description="Candlestick and Totem Pole" latitude="-43.13891" longitude="148.00601" easting="581813" northing="5223268" zone="55G" code="FTS025"/>
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<text class="heading1" id="3">Cape Hauy</text>
<text class="text" id="4">There are a number of interesting rock formations in the Cape Hauy area: The Candlestick, The Totem Pole, The Monument and assorted cliffs up to 100m high. It is a very spectacular spot and worthwhile even for just a look. Climbing on the Cape is usually epic and exposed.<br/><br/>The walking track to Cape Hauy starts from beside the boat ramp in the Fortescue Bay Campground, at the right-hand end of the beach as you drive in. The walk takes about an hour and a half. The track is well defined and in very good condition as it has been re-built as part of the proposed Three Capes Walk. To get to the abseil point for the Stick and the Tote, continue past the warning sign at the end of the formed track and follow a pad downhill. It is another 100m or so to the end of Cape Hauy. Follow a rough, slightly overgrown, and sporadically cairned track in the direction of Fortescue Bay along to a profile view of both sea stacks, at a level lower than the Tote's summit. From here you can traverse back across to a ledge within spitting distance of the Tote. Access to both stacks is by abseiling from a DBB here (about 60m).<br/><br/>Boat access to the base of the sea-spires is possible, but water movements through the channels and sudden surges make anchorage rather difficult. Kayaks can be z-pulley-ed out of the water to avoid damage from rock fall.</text>
<text class="heading2" id="7">The Totem Pole</text>
<text class="text" id="8">The Totem Pole is one of the most spectacular pieces of rock on the planet. It is a free-standing dolerite pillar spearing straight out of the water in a gloomy chasm infested with sharks and subject to volatile swell patterns. It is over sixty metres tall, but only about four metres wide at the base. It sways in the wind and shudders with the crash of every wave. The "Tote" is too slender to even be described as a phallic symbol, unless of course you've got a very skinny dick!<br/><br/>The prospect this piece of rock presents the climber is uncompromising and chilling. Equip yourself not only with the necessary gear but also a bottle of bravery pills. The challenge is psychological as much as technical.<br/><br/>See the Cape Hauy overview for details to get the the rap point. Fix a 60m rope to the DBB here and rap into the chasm. What you do next will depend on how big the swell is at the time...<br/><br/>In good conditions, it is possible to stand comfortably on the flat rock at the base of the Ewbank Route. There is a single carrot bolt at the bottom of route which can be used by the belayer for all routes on the Tote if that is the case. Even in moderate swell conditions, however it is subject to wave wash. (RP: I found that wearing bare feet and a waterproof jacket helped).<br/><br/>In more 'elevated' seas, a hanging belay is often employed at the start of the Deep Play Variant First Pitch, just left of the arete closest to the mainland. There is a spacious ledge about 4m off the water opposite the Fortescue Bay facing side that may be used as a base camp for the entertaining operation of penduluming over to the Tote. Taking a stick-clipping device of about 3 m length makes this crossing to this belay easy.<br/><br/>The easiest 'descent' option is to trail your abseil rope to to the top and use it to Tyrolean traverse back to the mainland. If you don't know what a Tyrolean traverse is, or how to set one up, then this is probably not the best place to learn how.</text>
<image id="14" height="976" width="600" src="totempole.png" noPrint="false">null</image>
<climb id="15" name="The Ewbank Route (free version aka 'The Freed Route')" number="1." fa="John Ewbank, Allan Keller, March 1968. FFA: Doug McConnell, Dean Rollins, Jan 2009." grade="27" length="65m" extra="" stars="">All but ignored following the ascent of The Free Route, the original aid route to the top of the Totem Pole was not as impossible to free as many had suspected. It now provides quality free climbing of a more committing nature than The Free Route. Gear required: plenty of quickdraws, cams to #1 Camalot, with doubles from #0.5 Camalot down, 1 set of wires, 1 set of RPs. Double ropes recommended.<br/>1. 20m 25. Start as for The Free Route and follow it to the SW (i.e. right) arête. Instead of continuing R, climb the arête, face and hollow flake to the triangular alcove.<br/>2. 15m 26. From the alcove, climb up to the roof. Step L around the arête via spike to a thin flake (good medium wires). Climb the face and arête, trending R at the horizontal to the semi-hanging DBB. Consider belaying the next pitch from below the DBB to avoid a potential factor 2 fall.<br/>3. 25m 27. Up the L arête and crack/seam, past a bolt, to a stance. Continue up crack past rattling spikes to the upper alcove. Up thin crack, then R and up to finish at ledge (DBB).<br/>4. 5m 17. Climb the prominent crack in the summit block. A tricky start gives way to cruisy crack climbing (this 'pitch' was freed on the first ascent).</climb>
<climb id="16" name="The Free Route" number="2." fa="Steve Monks, Simon Mentz (alt.), Jane Wilkinson, Simon Carter, Mar 1995." grade="25" length="65m" extra="" stars="***">One of the most iconic and recognisable rock climbs in the country, this route spirals its way up the Tote, climbing on all four faces. Start on the rock platform at the base of the Original Route if the swell is low, otherwise set up a hanging belay at the start of Deep Play. Many ascents these days start with the Deep Play variant first pitch instead of the one described here.<br/>1. 25m 25. Up the balancey arete on the L until possible to traverse R (across the Original Route) to the R arete (bolts). Keep moving R around the pillar (bolt) and then head up short corner (2 fixed pins, and/or cams) to the ledge.<br/>2. 40m 25. This is a really superb pitch; long, sustained, interesting and well-equipped. Pure class. Most people go L for a few metres after clipping the third bolt, and the back to the arete. There are 10 FHs, with some natural gear (cams) required in the last 10m. Gear: cams from small to #2 Camalot (but #0.75 and #1 are not used on this pitch or "Deep Play"), and plenty of quickdraws (including a couple of extendable quickdraws for under the roof).</climb>
<climb id="17" name="Gallegos Route" number="3." fa="Gallegos brothers (Spanish aid hard-men) 1993." grade="A?" length="65m" extra="" stars="">No one seems to know anything much about this, except that it appeared in a Boreal catalogue. From fixed gear left behind, it appears that the first pitch goes out left from the start of the Original Route and up to the big ledge on the far side (this pitch has been freed and is now known as Deep Play). The second pitch then cuts back R across the Tote, following a thin diagonal hairline crack with 2 old pitons... to perhaps join the Original Route at belay two? It may finish as for that route, or it could continue up independently... no sé!</climb>
<climb id="18" name="Deep Play" number="4." fa="Gallegos brothers (Spanish aid hard-men) 1993. FFA: Steve Monks, Enga Lokey, Feb 1999." grade="24" length="20m" extra="" stars="***">A popular alternative to the first pitch of the Free Route, as it lessens then the shenanigans required to get your abseil/Tyrolean rope to the summit. This pitch was originally aid-climbed as the first pitch to the Gallegos Route. It has now been retro-bolted (with 5 fixed hangers) and freed to create a more direct approach to the ledge on the far side of the Tote. Take a set of wires, and cams to red alien.</climb>
<climb id="104" name="The Sorcerer " number="5." fa="Garry Phillips and Chris Coppard, 2015." grade="27" length="58m" extra="" stars="***">A mind-blowing line. The climbing is sustained and technically demanding. <br/>1. 10m 22 Climb up to the 1st bolt on Deep Play, clip this with a long draw then drop back down a few metres to the horizontal break. Traverse left and around the arête to a stance and belay on the east face. <br/>2. 15m 25 Blast up the face for a few metres then traverse onto the right hand arête. Climb this via a tricky and powerful crux sequence to the ledge.<br/>Note: stay on the right hand arête: if you head left at the top it will become way run out and even harder. <br/>3. 30m 27 Follow the finger crack (.5 .4 .3 and .2 camolots) to the left hand arête. Up this past 8BR and a few bits of natural gear to the traverse line that leads right to the ledge. <br/>4. 3m 17 The crack to the summit. <br/>Gear List:<br/>• Double set of cams from .2 to .5 camolots<br/>• 2x 30cm quick draws<br/>• 1x 60cm quick draw<br/>• 14x quick draws<br/>• single 60m rope and 1 x 120cm sling <br/>• A ton of Psyche!<br/> <br/> <br/></climb>
<text class="heading2" id="19">The Candlestick</text>
<text class="text" id="21">The Candlestick stands behind the Tote. The sea heaving and surging between them caresses the rock walls like a hot lover. The water isn't that hot though, pretty freezing really, but hey, you didn't walk all this way for some kind of disco-party. You lugged all that climbing junk down to this chasm of doom for something far more special - a climbing experience you can really launch yourself into ... bodily.<br/><br/>The crux of the Candlestick is the swim. About 10m of shark-infested, usually surging, water lies between the base of the Tote and the Stick. Send someone else into the water but first give them an end of a rope so they can rig up a Tyrolean. This will minimise the overall wetness of the party. I hesitate to state what should be bloody obvious but someone from Queensland wrote in to say that people should be advised not to swim around the Cape Pillar side to the Tote. Despite the sharp angle the 60m obelisk would put on their rope they were hoping that it would slide smoothly up the Tote as they climbed the Candlestick (until they would be high enough to simply flick it over). They appear to have been surprised when their ropes got caught!<br/><br/>Access:<br/>To get to the abseil point for the Stick and the Tote, at the end of the formed track follow a pad downhill. It is another 100m or so to the end of Cape Hauy. Follow a rough, slightly overgrown track in the direction of Fortescue Bay along to a profile view of both sea stacks, at a level lower than the Tote's summit. From here you can traverse back right across to a ledge within spitting distance of the Tote. Access to both stacks is by abseiling from a DBB here (about 60m). A 70m+ rap line is required to be able to access start of routes (or extend the 60m rope).<br/>There are two ledges on the Candlestick accessible by a short swim from the base of the Tote: (1) A small one to the north that has a double bolt belay with fixed hangers 3m above sea level. This is the start of the NW (The Corner)Route. Jump in and swim left to ledge with U bolts 2-3m above the water. Drag traverse rope across 15m gap and setup Tyrolean or swim.<br/>and (2) a larger one, with no bolts, that is about 20 m south of (1) in the direction of Cape Pillar, behind the Tote, and directly below the actual Candlestick summit.<br/>The Middle Way, the Original (1971) Route and The Wick (1981) start from the larger (southern) ledge. The West Wall is also accessible from here by climbing up The Wick a short way before traversing left.<br/><br/>Descent:<br/>From the summit rap down to the bolts at the bottom of the last pitch. The 40m Tyrolean back requires two ropes and involves a controlled descent as anchors are approx. 20m higher than mainland. It is also possible to rap down to the bolts at the top of pitch 2 of ‘The Original Route’ and set up a Tyrolean from there, although ropes have been known to become stuck from this point.<br/><br/>Loose rock is the norm on the Candlestick so take great care. Look out for those below you.</text>
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<climb id="332" stars="**" extra="" number="6." name="Jack be Nimble" length="130m" grade="19" fa="T Smith and H Jackson alt Jan 2025">Tackles the long, steep, sheer wall on the SE face that goes right up to the summit of candlestick. This route also has better quality rock on the initial pitches than the other roped routes - but it is also the least convenient to access! But hey- you don’t climb the candle stick for convenience!! <br/>Goes up and over the stick - be like Jack! <br/><br/>Access by boat, or swim with gear in dry bags (!?) to the base of the south-eastern side of the candle stick - which is not visible at all from Cape Hauy. Moor just right of R arete of the wall- out of line of any falling rock! From here you can scramble easily up onto a lovely featured belay ledge about 4m above the water line. <br/><br/>1. 4m 4. Easy solo up to ledge to belay. <br/>2. 40m 18. Climb up the R facing corner above ledge for 3m, then traverse left around the bulge and slightly down for about 8m to the central splitter crack. Climb the slightly overhanging cracks and layaways on excellent rock to the small ledge in the alcove. Probably the best roped pitch on the 'stick.<br/><br/>3. 24m 19. Continue up cracks, go right of a small roof, then left up more steep ground above roof (crux). Finish on another fantastic ledge up R.<br/><br/>4. 25m 17. A pitch with some good rock and some crozzly rock that takes the less obvious line - diagonally up and left. Climb the steep right facing corner above belay ledge then trend leftward in to the alcove cracks until 4m below the large roof. Traverse left 2m to a large sloping ledge.<br/><br/>5. 25m 18. Initially lovely rock with right trending cracks then crozly offwidth flake on arete (about 2m left of chimney thing). OW goes for 7m to ledge (one #4 is just adequate as a 1 and 3 can also go in). Hand jam traverse 3m right under rooflet to a wide left facing corner, thern up good ledge.<br/><br/>6. 10m 17. The steep right facing corner to the summit scramble (natural belay near tree at top is possible, or traverse R to fixed anchors. <br/><br/><br/>Descend: abseil from slings (not the bolts) 45m to the bolted ledge on atop pitch 2 of the original route. This ledge is basically opposite the rooflet on the tote freed route pitch 2. Abseil again 55m with first person purposely going off the end of the rope into the water and swimming back around the get the boat. Exciting! Second descender can abseil slightly climbers right to ledges 3m above water (below the wick etc) for pick up with boat. <br/><br/><br/><br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="152" stars="**" extra="DWS" number="7." name="Sankara" length="20m" grade="22" fa="Danny Wade Jan 2019">Arete on north east corner of the Candlestick. High crux.</climb>
<climb id="128" stars="" extra="" number="8." name="Tyrolean-Mitre Rock to Cape Hauy " length="" grade="" fa="Reg Williams, John Moore, Alan Keller 1967">An expedition by the CCT in April 1967 landed Reg Williams, John Moore and Alan Kellar at what Reg WIliams named ‘Thank Christ Ledge’. See sketch. A 20m grade 16 pitch led to the summit from the ledge. The epic is documented in an article in HWC Tramp no.18 (Jan.1968 pp43-55). ‘The Candlestick Circus’ by Tim Christie.</climb>
<climb id="129" stars="" extra="" number="9." name="'ABC' Route" length="~110m" grade="18" fa="M. Tillema, L. Wood, G. Kowalik 1975. Alternative grappling hook access: C.(Basil) Rathbone, C.(Ditto)Rathbone June 1977">The north side of the Candlestick. First ascent for a ABC TV program “Sportsnight’, now on a 30-minute video (available on youtube). Five pitches. Swim across to the north side of the Candlestick (see topo), solo or aid climb ~8-10m to a ledge and rig a Tyrolean. Three further pitches lead to ‘Thank Christ Ledge’ where the classic Mitre Rock- Mainland Tyrolean landed the 1st ascent party of the Candlestick in 1967. A 20m grade 16 pitch leads to the summit from here.<br/><br/>Note: The swim has been avoided by tossing a homemade grappling hook on polypropylene cord across to the Candlestick and slowly lowering to the ledge at the top of the 1st pitch. Time consuming and not for the faint hearted due to the chance of a massive pendulum and collision back on the mainland cliff.<br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="156" stars="*" extra="" number="10." name="Livin In Lutana " length="50m" grade="23" fa="Alex Hartshorne & John Fisher 2019">1. 23 Climb the NW route for a couple of metres then traverse left via a tricky move and small gear. Head directly up to slopey ledge via finger crack and some death flakes (which couldn't be pulled off).<br/>2. 20 Continue straight up via unprotected squeeze chimney.<br/>3. Continue up NW route.<br/>All sizes from blue alien to #6.<br/></climb>
<climb id="103" name="North West (The Corner) Route" number="11." grade="18" length="105m" extra="" stars="***" fa="Pitch 1 & 2 Drew Fenton & Brad Miller, 5th Jan 1998">A grand adventure - The most popular way to climb the Candlestick due to its convenience to DBB anchors at a small ledge on the Stick to the north, 3m above sea level (visible from the start of the swim at the bottom of the 60m rap). Establish oneself on the ledge after desperately grabbing the kelp and move left 3m into the corner.<br/>1. 30m 18. The corner, stepping right around the small roof at 18m. Up to a sloping ledge.<br/>2. 30m 17. Up corner crack and continue to loose vegetated belay ledge at top with slings around boulder. <br/>3. 25m 16. Up wide crack and through awkward chimney squeeze being careful not to dislodge loose rock. Take care not to snag the drag line on the arete to your right. An alternative is to climb the wall on the left which is ">gr.18., delicate and tricky". See 'The Pommish Invasion' film, 2016, at https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=3400<br/>4. 20m 16. Move the belay to the bolts across Thank Christ Ledge, and secure your drag line. Go up the crack to your left and follow the line to the top of the stick. Alternatively, and somewhat looser, follow a steep jam crack (~18), traversing left under a rooflet near the end of the pitch to regain the original line to the summit. Rap back down from slings to the bolts where you left your fixed line, and set up your escape via Tyrolean.<br/><br/>Do not underestimate the serious nature of this route. Multiple parties have been injured requiring rescue due to lack of preparation or experience over the years.</climb>
<climb id="161" stars="**" extra="" number="12." name="Cherry Picker" length="70m" grade="20" fa="Alex Bog and Chris Wallace (01/2020)">The obvious continuous thin crack about 5m right of the north west route. The first pitch is a bit weird however leads to stunning and classic climbing on pitches 2 & 3.<br/>1. 15m 18 Start at the base of the North West route traversing 8m right with limited pro until a large corner system is reached. Up this for 5m then traverse back left on the easy ledge to build a belay. This semi circle of a pitch could be completed direct on reasonable holds as a DWS at around grade 20-22, the described line follows the pro and the easier climbing. <br/>2. 25m 20 (crux) Launch up the obvious crack system that begins with #2s (save a couple for the next belay) and finishes with 0.4's and wires. Sustained and classic, just enough holds and rests when you need them. A belay is best made on one of the smaller ledges reached first as the pro is not as solid on the large ledge up higher (the higher ledge is also in the way of potential rock fall).<br/>3. 30m 18 Up the clean #1 size splitter and into the big corner system. Stem up this passing a death block around halfway (surprisingly solid) and a #3 - #4 corner crack to finish off. <br/>4. Continue up the remaining two pitches of the North West route. <br/><br/>A small rack of wires and triple rack from #0.4-#3 will make this climb a pleasant experience.</climb>
<climb id="125" name="The Middle Way" number="13." fa="Possibly many people. Climbed as described by Xinyu Zheng, Sabine Pratt Hunziker and Dave James. 02/01/18" grade="18" length="95m" extra="" stars="*">From the large sloping ledge where the Original Route begins, scramble around the corner to the left along the narrow ledge making an anchor at its end. A good alternative to the Original Route.<br/><br/>1. Climb handcrack to belay at small ledges.<br/>2. Move left into adjacent more attractive crack, jamming and stemming to a small roof, traverse right into handcrack and onto subsequent belay ledge.<br/>3. Climb chimney above and into clean corner where it is possible to see between the columns. Belay on large ledge that extends around to final pitch options to the summit.<br/>4. 20m cracks to summit</climb>
<climb id="24" name="Original Route" number="14." fa="R.Williams., M.Tillema, C. Hocking, L. Closs (CCT 1971)" grade="16" length="110m" extra="" stars="">Another popular route. Beware of loose rock. From the large ledge behind the Totem Pole (~20m right of the smaller NW-Corner Route ledge) take the obvious chimney/gully that slowly slants from right to left. A double set of cams is useful. There are no bolts on this ledge at the time of writing.<br/><br/>1. 25m 14 Up the chimney/crack to a sloping ledge.<br/>2. 35m 16 More chimney/crack, cross over the top of the gnarly chockstone and up to the large ledge. with 2 rings which can be used to Tyrolean back to the mainland roughly level with the top of the Tote.<br/>3. 30m 16 Step right and up a hand and finger crack to the right of the chimney. When the crack finishes step left and finish up broken ground to the upper ledge system and a bolt belay (this can also be used to Tyrolean back to the main land from).<br/>4. 20m 16 Nice cracks to the summit<br/></climb>
<climb id="130" stars="*" extra="" number="15." name="The Wick" length="~110m" grade="17" fa="L. Closs, T. Williams, S. McDowell (1981)">The obvious direct line to the summit up the middle of the Candlestick when viewed from the mainland following a steep vertical chimney crack system, Start on the right side of the large ledge, right of the Original Route.<br/>Climb with some difficulty into the base of the chimney and continue to the top of the Candlestick. The initial intimidating offwidth overhang is ‘gr.16/17 with holds in the right places’. Although the route looks like cracks and chimneying, it makes much more use of wall holds than it might seem from a distance. “An enjoyable climb, although maybe a bit too old school for today's generation”- Lyle.<br/></climb>
<climb id="89" name="West Wall" number="16." fa="David Gray and Sebastien Meffre, April 1997." grade="18" length="130m" extra="" stars="">Access is via kayak or boat, paddling around to the south side of the Lanterns, beaching on the shelf at the southern end of the Candlestick. Start at the left edge of the shelf.<br/>1. 15m 14. Traverse left until beneath the major cleft (The Wick) right of the Candlestick's Original Route.<br/>2. 50m 17. Climb a short wall, then the major chimney (The Wick) until a ramp system can be followed out left to an exposed belay.<br/>3. 50m 18. Climb the steep cracks above until a belay above a large loose block (use extreme caution).<br/>4. 15m 16. Continue up the corner, then more easily to the summit.</climb>
<text id="278" class="heading3">Cliffs Facing the Candlestick and Totem Pole</text>
<text id="320" class="text">These are the cliffs located near the end of the track at Cape Hauy.</text>
<climb id="36" name="Candle in the Wind" number="17." fa="Steve Monks, Adrian Laing, May 2006." grade="25" length="110m" extra="" stars="**">Another great alternative if you go to do the Free Route on the Totem Pole and the seas are too big. The bottom ledge for this route is 15 metres off sea level, so the route will be a goer in 'most' seas. Gear required: 60m climbing rope, 2 sets of wires, double set cams to #3 Camalot, hexes, 3 bolt plates, lots of draws.<br/><br/>The route climbs the steep cliffs overlooking the Candlestick and the Totem Pole, and is accessed by rapping down the route. To get there, follow the Cape Hauy track from Fortescue Bay as for the Totem Pole. At the "Track Ends 50 metres" sign, do not turn off left (as for the Tote), rather go to the end of the track to the rock edge/lookout on the R. Rap bolts are located on the L (looking out), just over the edge. The raps are: (1) 25m from top (DBB) to a ledge (2 rings + 1 FH), (2) 30m to 2 rings, (3) 30m to 2 FH, then (4) 15m to the bottom ledge, which is huge. NOTE: rap (2) does NOT go directly below the bolts, but instead goes off the other side of the ledge (towards Cape Pillar).<br/><br/>1. 15m 24. Off the deck past 3 carrots to 2 fixed hangers. Natural gear also required.<br/>2. 30m 25. Straight up crack to belay stance with DBB. Hell of a bridging pitch and a bit runout in places.<br/>3. 30m 22/23. Continue up crack to ledge with DBB.<br/>4. 25m 18. Interesting face & crack climbing to the ledge, then up corner to top (it is possible to finish more easily on the R).</climb>
<climb id="38" name="The Swell Repeller" number="18." fa="Adam Demmert, Neil Monteith, 3 Jan 2006." grade="24" length="55m" extra="Þ" stars="*">Two pitches of stunning arêtes, both of which are fully bolted. A great bad weather option when the Tote is being hammered by the swell.<br/><br/>The route is on the mainland cliffs facing the Totem Pole. Fix a 60m rope to DBB as for the Totem Pole access, but rap diagonally towards Cape Pillar (SE), heading down a scungy corner to a ledge with a DBB belay. Continue rapping down the wall below, L of knife blade arête, to arrive at a small ledge about 5m above the ocean with another DBB.<br/><br/>1. 35m 24. Climb sustained arête past 10 FHs that get fairly spaced and oddly placed as you get higher. Belay on vegetated ledge at DBB.<br/>2. 20m 20. Up thin crack splitting the exposed arête above to small ledge. Sling rock tooth with a large sling and climb easily to top. Belay off the DBB.</climb>
<text class="heading1" id="25">The Monument (The Monolith)</text>
<text id="321" class="text">This large sea-stack is just off to the south of Cape Hauy (clearly visible from the track) was first climbed in 1970 by a Climbers' Club of Tasmania group. This sea-stack is much less popular than the others in the area, perhaps due to the fact that it is not as dramatic looking and is only about 50m high. However, since it is about 100m off shore, it is not any less of an mission to reach the top. Indeed, the tale of the first ascent is yet another grand CCT epic spread over a few attempts.<br/><br/>Prior to the successful attempt, Mendelt Tillema had already swam out to the stack, though his companion (Peter McHugh), who planned to follow in a rubber dingy was not able to make it out to the stack due to the swell. Mendelt swam back to shore and the attempt was aborted. The next time, Mendelt again swam (trailing a rope) to the prominent ledge on the NE corner of the stack. Mike Emery and Ray Lassman tied in the middle of the rope and followed, while Col Hocking held the other end and waited on the mainland should things get messy. McHugh contributed to proceedings by tumbling down the cliff as the start of the day, leaving blood stained rocks as markers for the path to the sea.<br/><br/>From the ledge, the team took the prominent chimney in the corner. This was an 80ft (or 25m) pitch at a grade of "VDiff" (now considered about grade 12-ish), and then a scramble to the top. Upon erecting a cairn they donated some green tights for a flag, though it appears these have long since blown away.<br/><br/>Most (all?) subsequent ascents have utilised a vessel of some sort; either a kayak, or a motor boat (including the second ascent, where they hitched a ride out to the stack on a fishing boat, and flagged down another boat to get a lift back a few hours later!). These days, the sea-stack is perhaps best approached by a kayak launched from Fortescue Bay on a calm day; unless you like swimming, that is.</text>
<climb id="30" name="The CCT Route" number="19." fa="Easter 1970." grade="12" length="40m" extra="" stars="">The route starts from a prominent ledge on the NE corner of the stack and climbs via a prominent chimney in the corner until the angle relents enough to scramble to the summit. Descend by abseil. Mendelt Tillema, Mike Emery, Ray Lassman and Col Hocking.</climb>
<climb id="32" name="Elementary Penguin" number="20." fa="Stefan Karpiniec, Phil Robinson, Oct 1974." grade="13" length="35m" extra="" stars="">This route is on the cliffs overlooking The Momument (I think...).<br/><br/>On cliffs opposite obvious doline/cenote/gulch. Descend gully on seaward side to platform at base of cliffs. Climb begins above a loose detached block on platform. 1. 25m. Up chimney for 6m to twin cracks. Down through the overhanging LH crack, then traverse to RH one when feasible. Continue to top of this and belay. 2. 10m. Move L and climb obvious corner</climb>
<text id="141" class="heading1">Munroe's Bight Cliffs</text>
<text id="142" class="intro">There are expansive cliffs on the south side of Cape Hauy, stretching all the way to Cape Pillar. So far, only the most accessible buttresses have been climbed on, and further left from Forgotten Columns the rock rapidly deteriorates and turns to siltstone. The cliffs here are described from climbers left (Cape Pillar) to right (Cape Hauy). <br/><br/>These are the easiest cliffs to access near Cape Hauy as the walk is significantly shorter than to the end of the Cape. There are some very high quality, rather exposed, multi-pitch routes that have rapidly become quite popular among solid trad climbers (grade 20-25). Prior to these routes there was a no bolt ethic this side of the Cape (aside from the Tote, the Candle Stick, Swell Repeller and Candle in the Wind), although Forgotten Columns is predominantly trad.<br/></text>
<text id="298" class="heading2">Forgotten Columns</text>
<text id="299" class="text">Two imposing buttresses stand proud at the left hand end of the Big Scary Shady Cliff. These are the Forgotten Columns. The position and climbing is excellent, and the rock quality is remarkably good. The cliff is warm and well-protected from westerly wind, and combined with minimal seapage, pleasant year-round climbing is possible. The cliff goes into shade around midday. Easterly winds turn this cliff into a real nightmare, so avoid if forecast unless you’re looking for a character building experience. The cliff is steep and pitches are often demanding, and combined with this is some immense exposure. This is probably the tallest sea cliff at the Cape, and there's about another 80m of exposure below the base of the cliff down the slabs below to the sea. If you've pulled your ropes, walking out isn't really an option, so be confident in your climbing and/or aiding abilities when choosing your route.<br/><br/>Approach:<br/>Routes are easily done as a day trip from Hobart. It’s an easy 1 hour walk from the Fortescue Bay car park to the top of the buttress. Follow the track and make your way to a small clearing above the buttresses in the bush to gear up, as indicated on the map. No seabird or peregrine nests have been noted to date, however be mindful of bird breeding sites and season (August to December) and the unlikely potential for nests on belay ledges. If you start getting sqwuaked or find a nest, please retreat and alert the crag stewards. Please don't form tracks through the bush (spread-out across the rocky terrain) or erect cairns.<br/><br/>Gear:<br/>Check the route descriptions for additional details, but a rack of wires and a double rack of cams #0.3-#3 (BD) is the standard rack for the cliff. If planning to pull your ropes rather than fix a line, a single 70m rope will cover you for the abseils, sometimes on stretch so take the usual precautions to avoid abseiling off the ends! Take a short (~15m) rope and ascender to fix off the top section of the Unforgotten buttress. There are abseil anchors located on boulders at the top of each buttress to prevent inadvertent damage to trees and vegetation. Belays are DBBs unless indicated otherwise.</text>
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<text id="303" class="heading3">Teenage Hand Model Buttress</text>
<text id="301" class="text">The left buttress. Splitter cracks and sustained pitches of jamming are the name of the game here. Tape-up.</text>
<climb id="304" stars="***" extra="" number="21." name="Never Gonna Give You Up" length="68m" grade="24" fa="Fraser L-R, Aaron Galligan, April 2025">Three demanding pitches of finger crack climbing. Each pitch offers its own difficulties. Take a standard rack from #0.2, with extra cams between #0.3 and #1. It’s possible to link this route into THM at various points on the second pitch.<br/><br/>Access as for Teenage Hand Model to the start of its second pitch, then do a short abseil to anchors just around the arete to the left.<br/><br/>1. 20m 22+. The finger crack through the face. Claw and layback your way up to a trad belay on the ledge (#0.75 and #1 sized cams for belay).<br/>2. 20m 23. Up the tricky steep hand crack in front of you to a stance below a small roof. Blast through this into the finger crack and up to a stance on the right. A technical traverse left leads to a semi-hanging DBB.<br/>3. 20m 24. Tough start into the crack, followed by steep and strenuous finger locks and laybacks. Traverse left on face holds to another crack when this ends, and up this to DBB.<br/>4. 8m 16. Climb the short dirty corner to a tree belay.</climb>
<climb id="305" stars="***" extra="" number="22." name="Teenage Hand Model" length="86m" grade="20" fa="Christoph Speer, Jemma Herbert, Fraser L-R, October 2024">Excellent crack climbing in a super position. The route follows a series of impressive splitter cracks up the front of the buttress. Take a standard rack, with extra #1 sized cams for pitch 2 (four total recommended if at limit) and an extra #3 for the third pitch. <br/><br/>Abseil for 7m down the short corner from the boulder above the buttress, to a ledge next to a friendly bush. From here, abseil trending left down the line for 19m, 32m (swing left) and 28m (swing right) to a conspicuous cleaned ledge above a slab in the corner. This is where the first pitch begins (gear belay - medium/large wires).<br/><br/>1a. 28m 19. Up the corner to a ledge, step left and follow the crack to a mantle. Up the crack past a short fused section (crux), then easily left across blocky ledges to a belay near the blunt arete. <br/>OR<br/>1b. 28m 19. More sustained. Climb the crack and flake left from the belay ledge, until reaching a shallow left facing corner. Up this to mantle as for 1a and continue as described.<br/>2. 32m 20+. Crux pitch. Layback the flake, then jam up the corner to a second ledge. Hand traverse right 2m and into a steep, immaculate splitter crack. Easier jamming up the continuation crack out right leads to an overlap and a large chockstone. Step right here to a belay next to a large block.<br/>3. 19m 20. The great flake. Layback and jam the crack above to a stance, commit to some thin jamming out right and motor up the wide-hands crack above to a belay.<br/>4. 7m 15. Chimney the awkward corner to top-out.</climb>
<climb id="306" stars="" extra="" number="23." name="Project (requires more cleaning)" length="" grade="" fa="Project - Fraser, Chris and Hamish">The corner and thin crack on the front of the buttress, right of THM.</climb>
<climb id="307" stars="***" extra="" number="24." name="Compartment Syndrome" length="30m" grade="21" fa="Hamish Jackson, Shumita Joseph, Christoph Speer, March 2025">Superb jamming and laybacking up the gently overhanging orange wall. Take a double rack of cams from #0.4 to #2, with extra #1s, #2s and a #3. Locate an anchor on a boulder on the north side of the buttress, and abseil 30m to a DBB on a pedestal of rock below a roof. There could be a pitch below with a lot of effort (block-filled offwidth).<br/><br/>Jam through the roof and tight hand crack above, easing to the narrow ledge at 20m. Traverse right and climb the superb hand crack to the top of the buttress.</climb>
<climb id="328" stars="**" extra="" number="25." name="Wedge Pressure" length="28m" grade="24" fa="Jem Clemens and Hamish Jackson (team effort), 2025">Up compartment syndrome to the rooflet, then break-out right up the punchy finger crack for 10m until it rejoins CS for the upper hand crack.</climb>
<text id="309" class="heading3">Unforgotten Buttress</text>
<text id="310" class="text">The RH buttress with the prominent arete. The rock on this buttress is more featured, which provides for some great varied climbing, as opposed to the very regular splitters on the other buttress.<br/><br/>Access:<br/>Fix a short (15m) rope off at a boulder directly above the buttress and abseil down beside the pillar onto the top of the buttress proper. Locate an abseil anchor in a corner over the cliff edge and pull your ropes from these. DON'T abseil off the anchor on top of the buttress next to the pillar or your ropes will get stuck. Ascend the short fixed rope or solo the chimney for the escape pitch.</text>
<climb id="311" stars="***" extra="" number="26." name="Unforgotten" length="110m" grade="22" fa="Christoph Speer, Hamish Jackson, September 2024">A varied and exposed adventure taking the spellbinding line up the prominent arete. Take a standard rack with triples of #0.3-#3, including a #4. Take a micro-cam (0.2) and a #5 for pitch 3 to avoid a short runout. Protection is excellent. <br/><br/>Locate an anchor from the clearing and fix a rope (15m needed), then abseil down to the buttress proper. Locate another anchor in a corner over the cliff edge to pull your ropes from. Two abseils (32m & 35m) down the RHS of the buttress to a ledge below the arete, then a final third abseil (30m) down the square corner to a vegetated ledge on the left - start here.<br/><br/>1. 32m 22. Up the slabby corner for 8m to the base of a splitter crack dissecting the right hand wall. Follow the splitter through the small roof, which begins as hands, goes to fingers (crux), and ends as a groove. Mantle the ledge above and shuffle right to belay where you abseiled from.<br/>2. 40m 21. A long, classic pitch. Step right from the belay and climb a hand crack up the groove. Follow discontinuous cracks above until transitioning to the crack on the left side of the arete. Follow the line to an exciting finale passing a bulging hand crack. Belay at an anchor on a small ledge above.<br/>3. 30m 17. Up the hand crack and hollow flake to the large roof, making a memorable hand traverse left to a chimney (careful of rope drag). Up the pleasant chimney with good small cams at the back of the left wall. From the vegetated ledge, follow the hand crack on the prow directly above to an aerobic finish (#5 cam - but not essential). Top-out and belay next to the pillar.<br/>4. 8m. Escape pitch. Ascend your fixed line or solo chimney.</climb>
<climb id="312" stars="" extra="" number="27." name="Closed Project" length="70m" grade="" fa="Closed Project - Fraser">The line staying close to the arete on its RHS.<br/><br/>1. 35m. Follow the line right of the arete from the belay of Unforgottens 2nd pitch. Runout trad.<br/>2. 32m. Follow the line of Us out left and up the exposed arete.<br/>3. 8m Escape pitch. Ascend fixed line or solo chimney.</climb>
<climb id="313" stars="***" extra="" number="28." name="A Little Life" length="76m" grade="24" fa="Christoph Speer, Fraser L-R, January 2025">Outstanding climbing up a wild line. Take a standard rack to #2 with triples of 0.3-0.5. Include micro-cams (0.1-0.2) in your rack for the first pitch. Small-medium offset wires are handy but not essential. Protection is excellent.<br/><br/>Fix a rope to access the top of the column, then two abseils (32m and 36m) down the buttress on its RHS to a DBB at a ledge, just below the start of the crack.<br/><br/>1. 36m 24. A superb pitch of trad climbing. Face climb the groove to a stance on the right, then step back left into the line and climb the sustained finger crack and line above to a small nook halfway for a welcome rest. Bridge and layback the steep, technical corner and flake above to a difficult exit onto the ledge to belay.<br/>2. 35m 23. Rather exposed. Bridge the corner on the right, then step left past the off-width and jammed block to the start of the finger crack. Jam and layback this through the two roofs to a brief rest, then head out right and negotiate the thin face. Finish up a short hand crack and wide corner.<br/>3. 8m. Escape pitch. Ascend fixed line or solo chimney.</climb>
<climb id="314" stars="***" extra="" number="29." name="Life After Life" length="76m" grade="23" fa="Fraser L-R, Christoph Speer, January 2025">The excellent companion line to the first pitch of A Little Life. Take the same rack and include some #3s. Access as for A Little Life.<br/><br/>1. 37m 23. Start as for A Little Life, but follow the short corner on R after the stance at 6m, to a ledge below the companion crack. Follow the finger / hand crack until a jug about 2m below the large roof, where the crack fuses. Make a tricky traverse left on face holds into A Little Life (crux), and finish up the line to the belay ledge.<br/>2. 35m 23. As for A Little Life.<br/>3. 8m. Escape pitch. Ascend fixed line or solo chimney.</climb>
<climb id="315" stars="**" extra="" number="30." name="Fiyah" length="60m" grade="23" fa="Fraser L-R, Nick Carter, April 2025">A long open corner line to the right of the stepped section of the buttress. Locate an anchor to climbers right from the clearing at the edge of the cliff. You’ll need to fix a static rope or leave some gear at the obvious belays to get down (60m). Pre-clip the first U.<br/><br/>From the DBB, gymnastically climb up the blunt arete until you reach a thin crack. From here, bridge and jam your heart away to the top. Possible to do as a mega 60m pitch, or break at 30m or 45m with trad belays.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="110">The Big Scary Shady Cliff</text>
<text id="296" class="text">The rap into the blue fin is the clearing where the small point and monument line up. Please don't leave fixed anchors, bolts, cairns or tracks and refrain from removing vegetation no matter how tempting it might be.</text>
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<climb>116</climb>
<climb>119</climb>
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<climb id="121" name="Fisherman" number="31." fa="DJ and Daz June 2017" grade="18" length="30m" extra="" stars="">Wide cracks on to the fisherman’s shoulders, final block to summit remains unconquered and the prize of stealing the fisherman’s hat. <br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="116" name="Blue Fin" number="32." fa="DJ and Daz alt June 2017" grade="21" length="50m" extra="" stars="***">The splitter in face of the tower. The blue fin is an endangered species. This improbably thin fin of stone ends in a perfect summit. Please take care of the bonsai's on the summit they are living a long and hard life. Access and exit by fixing a rope from the mainland.<br/>1. 15m 18. Right hand, widening crack, belay on ledge right of crack before traverse.<br/>2. 35m 21. Follow hand traverse left to crack, climb to summit.<br/>3. 10m 23. or jug rap line, crack on mainland to cliff top.<br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="119" name="Direct" number="33." fa="DJ and Daz June 2017" grade="18" length="20m" extra="" stars="">Wide crack direct start to the fin.<br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="122" name="Direct Direct" number="34." fa="Alex Hathshorne and Rosemary Hohnen November 2017" grade="26" length="20m" extra="" stars="">Thin left hand line. Disappointing flares.</climb>
<climb id="120" name="B Side" number="35." fa="DJ and Daz alt June 2017" grade="15" length="50m" extra="" stars="*">Wide stemming chimney between mainland and Blue Fin. Start on right hand side of fin. Jug from summit.<br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="113" name="Narcissist" number="36." fa="Daz July 2017" grade="" length="35m" extra="" stars="">The most photogenic of towers, visible from the Cape Hauy track.<br/></climb>
<text id="286" class="heading2">The Shnaggle Tooth</text>
<climb id="143" stars="*" extra="" number="37." name="Shnaggle Tooth" length="15m" grade="9" fa="Daz & Katherine Tattersall March 2018">Climb crack to summit, stand on top.</climb>
<text id="287" class="text">The Shnaggle Tooth is accessed by turning south onto track at the top of the first set of steps on Cape Hauy as you come out from the dip. Follow the track till it ends after 50m then wander down hill another 50m and look over the east side of the spur to see the Shnaggle Tooth.</text>
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<climb>143</climb>
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<text class="heading1" id="39">The Safe House Crag</text>
<text class="text" id="40">Unlikely to have seen any repeat ascents. Situated on the near a small inlet about 0.5 km from the end of Cape Hauy, back towards Fortescue Bay. Discovered in March 1989 after a huge swell aborted a Candlestick attempt. To get there, leave the Cape Hauy track at the ridge as you come up from the dip going out to the Cape proper. Walk along the ridge line to the coast (downhill from the ridge the scrub is horrendous!). As you get to the coast you have to bash through some pretty thick stuff for maybe 100m 'til you arrive at the crag. (Editor's note: a boat sounds like a good alternative). Routes are from L to R. The hard looking arête makes a good point of reference.</text>
<climb id="41" name="Plastic Machete" number="38." fa="Evan Peacock, Mar 1989." grade="21" length="12m" extra="" stars="">The face/seam L of the arête, bombproof wire protection and very nice climbing.</climb>
<climb id="42" name="Riff Raff and Rug Rats" number="39." fa="Evan Peacock, Mar 1989." grade="18" length="12m" extra="" stars="">R and around the arête is a nice looking corner.</climb>
<climb id="43" name="Flock of Dolphins" number="40." fa="Evan Peacock, Mar 1989." grade="20" length="12m" extra="" stars="">The next route to the R, excellent face/finger crack climbing.</climb>
<climb id="44" name="Seal of Approval" number="41." fa="Steve Ford, Mar 1989." grade="19" length="12m" extra="" stars="">Next line to the R.</climb>
<climb id="45" name="Morning Swim" number="42." fa="Steve Ford, Feb 1990." grade="19" length="12m" extra="">R and around the corner from SOA is a small roof, climb this.</climb>
<climb id="46" name="Pissin' in the Wind" number="43." fa="Evan Peacock, Feb 1990." grade="21" length="15m" extra="">Starts in the corner immediately right of MS. Some lay-away moves bring you some bridging then the top.</climb>
<climb id="47" name="Don't Drink Yellow Sea Spray" number="44." fa="Evan Peacock, Feb 1990." grade="15" length="15m" extra="">Starts in the wide crack about 5m R of PIW.</climb>
<climb id="48" name="Dunkirk" number="45." fa="Evan Peacock, Mar 1989." grade="15" length="15m" extra="" stars="">A bit further R is a corner, it looks very nice and, dare I say it, is rather obvious. It's bristling with runners and is an excellent route.</climb>
<text id="274" class="heading1">Fortescue Bay Area</text>
<text id="297" class="text">This section of the guide covers the cliffs and crags within the sheltered area of Fortescue Bay itself. There are a couple of pleasant crags within an easy 20 minute walk of the campsite that provide a fun and relaxed day out.</text>
<text class="heading2" id="50">The Sunny Gym</text>
<text class="text" id="51">The original crag in the bay area and with the shortest access was first explored by Pete Steane in 1995, and previously known as Fortescue Bay Crag. A quiet, sunny heat trap, adjacent the sea and with a pleasant rock platform at its base. The crag is about 15-20m high and has some really great climbing on many nice cracks and flakes. The rock quality is generally good, just be mindful that some crack lines can become sandy without regular traffic. The cliff faces North, and is a warm winter crag, particularly if the sun is shining and the SW winds are blowing. Avoid if Northerly or Easterly winds/swell are forecast. <br/><br/>Starting at Fortescue Bay, follow the Cape Hauy track for about 10 minutes from the jetty to a seat and sculpture. Rock hop straight down easily from here for ~100m to the top of the cliff through the bush (5 mins). Abseil in, or scramble down to a short 5m grade 15 downclimb in a corner at climbers left.</text>
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<climb id="330" stars="" extra="" number="46." name="Hang 5" length="15m" grade="10" fa="Ed Maddison & Benny Plunkett, Feb 2023">Rappel into the chimney chasm furthest point climbers left on the ramp.</climb>
<climb id="329" stars="*" extra="DWS" number="47." name="Inventure" length="15m" grade="21" fa="Michael Lehmann, Feb 2023">The striking arete south of Wet Nurse, easy climbing to a high crux.</climb>
<climb id="52" name="Wet Nurse" number="48." fa="Nick Hancock, Ken Palmer Mar 2004." grade="23" length="15m" extra="DWS" stars="**">At the left end of the cliff climb the sharp arête, starting from the ledge on the left which is gained by abseil.</climb>
<climb id="53" name="Nurse Shark" number="49." fa="Nick Hancock, Ken Palmer Mar 2004." grade="19" length="5m" extra="DWS" stars="">The blunt arête gained from the right.</climb>
<climb id="293" stars="" extra="" number="50." name="Eeeeee (The Dolphin Noise)" length="12m" grade="16" fa="Kiera Schulz & Michael Lehmann, Feb 2023">The pleasant crack in corner.</climb>
<climb id="54" name="Style Over Substance" number="51." fa="Roger Parkyn, Nov 2008." grade="20" length="18m" extra="" stars="*">The nice techincal finger crack in the shallow corner. Up the crack and surmount the block near the top.</climb>
<climb id="283" stars="" extra="" number="52." name="Hightail the High-tide" length="15m" grade="14" fa="Unknown">LHS escape. The sloping ramp between Style and Rhyme..</climb>
<text id="334" class="text">These next climbs finish onto a sloping ledge. Cam belay at the top of the sloping ledge. Scramble up the back through a chute to exit.</text>
<climb id="55" name="The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner" number="53." fa="Pete Steane, Sep 1995." grade="20" length="15m" extra="" stars="">The thin line on the arete near the left end of the main wall. Finish at the main sloping ledge above.</climb>
<climb id="56" name="Kelpie" number="54." fa="Doug Fife, Sep 1995." grade="17" length="15m" extra="" stars="*">The pleasant hand crack just right of The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner, finishing onto the sloping ledge.</climb>
<climb id="325" stars="**" extra="" number="55." name="Truth or Dare" length="17m" grade="23/24" fa="Hamish Jackson, Jem Clemens, June 2025 (climbed on sight, not as a head point!)">Bold, sustained climbing up the incipient seam, culminating in a committing crux at the top! Boulder up the face right of the seam then move left to the crack at 4m. Numerous small cams and wires essential (triples of 0.3 and some offset cams are handy but not essential).</climb>
<text id="333" class="text">These next climbs finish on a good ledge system above the wall. Rock anchors or trees to belay.</text>
<climb id="57" name="Nameless by Douglas" number="56." fa="Doug Fife, Sep 1995 (named posthumously)" grade="19" length="20m" extra="" stars="**">A great climb. The crack and rib/flake just left of Jesus Without the Nails to face climbing crux reaching the ledge. Finish up the left facing corner.</climb>
<climb id="90" name="Jesus Without the Nails" number="57." fa="Nick & Heather Hancock, Jun 2011." grade="23" length="20m" stars="*" extra="7Þ">Pinch up the fin just left of TCFBS via 7 glued carrots. Medium cams for the belay.</climb>
<climb id="58" name="Thank Christ for Bass Strait" number="58." fa="Pete Steane, Jun 1995." grade="18" length="20m" extra="" stars="**">The highest line on the wall. Jamming and layaways with a wide but easy finish.</climb>
<climb id="59" name="Windscape" number="59." fa="Bob McMahon, Jun 1995." grade="19" length="20m" extra="" stars="*">The line immediately right of Thank Christ for Bass Strait. Flared jamming to start. At the top, step left into Thank Christ for Bass Strait. Direct finish looks quite feasible.</climb>
<climb id="326" stars="**" extra="" number="60." name="The Emissary" length="20m" grade="22" fa="Hamish Jackson, Jem Clemens, Christoph Speer, June 2025 (flash, not head point FA)">Superb and exciting trad climbing. Start at Blythe Star but find seam on left up to undercling flake, left through this, then up fun flakes trending left at second horizontal (crux) and then committing moves to the top via more flakes and huecos (save a #1 for top horizontal). Gear is quite good enough but you have to work for it in the mid sections. Double rack plus a couple extra 0.2-0.4 range, double ropes used on FA.</climb>
<climb id="60" name="Blythe Star" number="61." fa="Pete Steane, Sep 1995." grade="18" length="18m" extra="" stars="*">A deep crack to start (better to use the face holds). Up the line using the neat flake on the left. Be careful of some loose stuff at the end. Reputedly a bit tough for the grade.</climb>
<text class="text" id="61">A short barnacle filled gutter separates the higher Main Wall from the smaller wall further right. Whilst short, these climbs are still fun.</text>
<climb id="62" name="Sunny Gym" number="62." fa="Pete Steane, Jun 1995." grade="17" length="12m" extra="" stars="">Nice jamming up the line just right of the easy looking corner. Careful of some loose rock at the top.</climb>
<climb id="63" name="Exit Route" number="63." grade="16" length="12m" extra="" stars="" fa="Unknown">Corner crack through a roof. Pleasant.</climb>
<climb id="282" stars="" extra="" number="64." name="The Other Exit Route" length="12m" grade="16" fa="Unknown">The pleasant crack line.</climb>
<climb id="327" stars="" extra="" number="65." name="Happy Jill" length="12m" grade="17" fa="Jai Friend, May 2025">The nice crack line at the right of the crag before the water.</climb>
<text id="108"/>
<text id="174" class="heading2">Canoe Bay Crag</text>
<text id="175" class="text">A popular crag only a short walk from the Fortescue Bay camp-ground with an abundance of good, well-protected routes all virtually next door to each other. There are large wave-cut belay ledges facing the Hippolytes and Cape Hauy to bask-on, and it's a magic spot to have a climb & swim on a hot summers day. The rock quality is highly featured and generally good, though it can be friable in places. The crag goes into shade in the afternoon, and is pleasant year round. Routes listed with a ≈ symbol are best climbed when the tide/swell is low (<0.8m tide is ideal). <br/><br/>Access is from the Canoe Bay walking track (the same one that goes towards the Moai). From the car park, head North along the beach, then follow the track to Canoe Bay for ~15 minutes. Please take great care of the vegetation and practice minimal impact on your visit.</text>
<text id="176" class="heading3">South Cliff</text>
<text id="271" class="text">The South Cliff gets more sun than the North Cliff and has a nice big amphitheatre of rock to bask on. Just before you hit the top of the hill before Canoe Bay, cut-off from the track down to the point on your right following where a large tree has fallen over through the bush down to the waters edge. Rock-hop around the water-line towards Canoe Bay and you will come to the southern crag.</text>
<image id="218" src="IMG_3073.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="South Cliff - Cove">
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<text id="291" class="text">There are some short boulder problems on the approach to the crag that are worthwhile.</text>
<climb id="178" stars="" extra="" number="66." name="Below Deck" length="8m" grade="13" fa="Christoph Speer, Rach Chong, Nov 2022">Up the twin cracks in the first little alcove on the left, just before you approach the main crag near the waterline. Belay on shrubs and walk-off left through the scrub (crux).</climb>
<climb id="179" stars="" extra="≈" number="67." name="The Jolly Roger" length="12m" grade="15" fa="Roger Parkyn, Christoph Speer, Oct 2022">Pleasant face climbing on big holds. Start in the middle of the wall and trend left and up the groove past some cam pockets to the arete, then move back right and up following the diagonal crack.</climb>
<climb id="272" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="68." name="Piracy" length="12m" grade="14" fa="Christoph Speer, Daniel Peacock, May 2024">Big jugs. A good easier route.</climb>
<climb id="180" stars="*" extra="≈" number="69." name="The Kraken" length="18m" grade="18" fa="Christoph Speer, Cameron Semple, Roger Parkyn, Oct 2022">Jam up the steep hand crack to the bush, then make an exciting step across the groove to finish up the final few metres of Davey Jones’ Locker. Take a #4. <br/><br/>It is possible to bail left before the traverse at easy grade 17, but this is a scurvy-dog move. So put on your sea boots and commit to the traverse.</climb>
<climb id="181" stars="*" extra="≈" number="70." name="Davey Jones’ Locker" length="18m" grade="18" fa="Zack Lazatin, Jemma Herbert, Nov 2022">The watery grave. Chimney, stem and jam up the line.</climb>
<climb id="182" stars="*" extra="≈ Þ" number="71." name="Parlay" length="15m" grade="18" fa="Christoph Speer, Roger Parkyn, Nov 2022">Good arete and wall climbing. Start in the middle of the face below the undercut and head directly up past the flake and arete on its left side.</climb>
<climb id="183" stars="*" extra="Mixed" number="72." name="Sea Legs" length="13m" grade="19" fa="Christoph Speer, Roger Parkyn, Nov 2022">Thoughtful climbing up the open corner. Small / medium wires and cams with a single U in the middle provide good protection to the top.</climb>
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<climb id="184" stars="**" extra="Mixed" number="73." name="Rum on the Rocks" length="16m" grade="23" fa="Christoph Speer, Nov 2022">The intense, overhanging finger crack. Up the finger crack, moving right to the flake. Cross back left and climb the face past a U to finish up the corner (save a BD #0.5). The crack goes direct at 24 if you don't use the flake.</climb>
<climb id="185" stars="**" extra="" number="74." name="The Peg Leg" length="17m" grade="20" fa="Christoph Speer, Roger Parkyn, Cameron Semple, Oct 2022">Steep. Up the crack with help from the arete to the small roof. Pull left under this and traverse across the featured face, and finish as for Rum on the Rocks. Save a BD #1 for the traverse and #0.5 for the top corner.</climb>
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<climb>187</climb>
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<climb id="186" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="75." name="Phishing" length="14m" grade="19" fa="Christoph Speer, Jai Friend, Oct 2022">The slabby wall left of The Sirens Call. Follow the left-hand edge of the flake to some balancy moves reaching a jug pocket, then head left across face until you can move back right to gain good holds to finish.</climb>
<climb id="187" stars="*" extra="" number="76." name="The Sirens Call" length="17m" grade="16" fa="Christoph Speer, Jai Friend, Oct 2022">Pleasant jamming up the eye-catching crack. The leaning block is keyed-in but take care. A BD#4 for the top is useful.</climb>
<climb id="188" stars="" extra="Þ" number="77." name="Three Sheets to the Wind" length="16m" grade="19" fa="Christoph Speer, Roger Parkyn, Nov 2022">Not bad. Crank through the roof (crux) and up the face to the ledge. Then follow the thoughtful arete to finish on its left side and mantle delicately to finish. Use a locker on the first U.</climb>
<image id="221" src="IMG_3075.jpg" height="542" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="South Cliff - Treasure Wall">
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<climb>191</climb>
<climb>192</climb>
<climb>193</climb>
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<climb id="189" stars="" extra="Þ" number="78." name="Treasure Chest" length="12m" grade="18" fa="Christoph Speer, Roger Parkyn, Nov 2022">Sustained climbing up the unusual pocketed face, with some balancy moves at the very top. Some average rock, but actually climbs quite well.</climb>
<climb id="190" stars="" extra="" number="79." name="Blistering Barnacles" length="12m" grade="15" fa="Christoph Speer, Jai Friend, Oct 2022 ">Well-protected climbing up the highly featured face and crack.</climb>
<climb id="191" stars="" extra="" number="80." name="Abandon Ship" length="13m" grade="17" fa="Christoph Speer, Zack Lazatin, Nov 2022">Up the blocky crack/face, plug some gear in the horizontal at 2/3rds height, then abandon ship and do a memorable traverse left (crux) to finish up Blistering Barnacles.</climb>
<climb id="192" stars="" extra="" number="81." name="Peppercorn Crack" length="12m" grade="19" fa="Christoph Speer, Roger Parkyn, Oct 2022">Nice climbing with good protection, but the rock is a bit gritty. Up the LH wall to enter the bottomless hand-crack, then steep laybacking and jamming to the top.</climb>
<climb id="193" stars="" extra="" number="82." name="Pillage & Plunder" length="12m" grade="17" fa="Christoph Speer, Roger Parkyn, Oct 2022">Worth a few moments. Sustained bridging and finger jamming up the wide-angle corner with good protection. The spike is keyed-in.</climb>
<text id="194" class="heading3">North Cliff</text>
<text id="273" class="text">The North Cliff loses the sun around midday and is slightly taller. The rock is arguably of better overall quality here as well. Towards the bottom of the hill coming into Canoe Bay, cut right down to the waterline through the bush and traverse the shore towards the South, heading away from Canoe Bay. There's a careful sea-level rock hop required at the last section to get to the crag. If the tide/swell comes up during your visit, it's possible to escape back to the track by climbing a grade 6 exit scramble right of 'Bogans in Boats', then walking shortly through the scrub back to the track.</text>
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<climb id="239" stars="*" extra="≈" number="83." name="My Son Niko" length="18m" grade="17" fa="Christoph Speer, Jai Friend, June 2023">Companion route to Just Right. Up through the bulge as for Just Right, then traverse left across the wall following the line of holds into the next crack line. Follow this to the top and step right to the anchor.</climb>
<climb id="196" stars="*" extra="≈" number="84." name="Just Right" length="18m" grade="17" fa="Fraser L-R, Christoph Speer, Dec 2022">Memorable climbing above the water. Starting on the far left of the crag where the ledges peter out, belay in a small undercut and bridge straight-up through the intimidating bulge to follow an engaging crack to the top. Thoughtful moves over the block at half-height.</climb>
<climb id="241" stars="" extra="" number="85." name="Just Because" length="16m" grade="8" fa="Amps, Christoph Speer, Jan 2024">Halfway between Just Right and Smooth Sailing is a thin crack. Up this and the proceeding juggy staircase above which ends on a small pillar. Step right above the void and belay/abseil from the anchor on smooth sailing. Quite a good ramble.</climb>
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<climb id="225" stars="*" extra="" number="86." name="Smooth Sailing" length="15m" grade="15" fa="Christoph Speer, Gina Sorensen, Dec 2022">A nice climb at the grade. Just left of the arete, start-up the corner / hand-crack on good holds, then traverse left into the crack and follow this to the top. There is a good variant to the left at grade 14 which goes up the face at the start, meeting the upper crack above.</climb>
<climb id="227" stars="**" extra="Mixed" number="87." name="The Bow" length="15m" grade="17" fa="Christoph Speer, Liam Mangan-Smith, Jan 2023">Interesting, thought-provoking climbing with some great positions. Climb up the arete on its RHS to the top. A range of cams, long slings and two Us provide good protection.</climb>
<climb id="197" stars="" extra="" number="88." name="Maiden Voyage" length="17m" grade="13" fa="Alex Lawson, Christoph Speer, Nov 2022">Good fun. A 3D subterranean experience climbing through the crack-line and deep chimney, just right of the pointy blocky arete. Belay at top on ledge and abseil-off using the Smooth Sailing anchor.</climb>
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<climb id="230" stars="" extra="" number="89." name="Coco Pops" length="18m" grade="10" fa="Fraser L-R (solo), Jan 2023">The wide corner/chimney left of Bridge Over Troubled Water.</climb>
<climb id="198" stars="" extra="" number="90." name="Bridge Over Troubled Water" length="22m" grade="14" fa="Christoph Speer, Fraser L-R, Dec 2022">Good for the grade. Jamming and bridging between the wide corner and finger crack. Best climbed as per the name suggests. Traverse right across the ledge at top to belay from the anchor and abseil-off.</climb>
<climb id="199" stars="**" extra="≈ Mixed" number="91." name="Zodiac" length="20m" grade="20" fa="Christoph Speer, Jai Friend, Nov 2022">Layback the shallow groove to a rest, then follow the crack to a small rooflet. Blast through this onto the juggy face (two Us) to finish on the ledge. Protection in the groove is good, but demanding to place. Take wires and plenty of finger sized cams. Abseil-off from Lost Bounty.</climb>
<climb id="200" stars="*" extra="≈" number="92." name="Lost Bounty" length="20m" grade="18" fa="Christoph Speer, Alex Lawson, Nov 2022">Crank up the sustained face and cracks to a stance, then continue up the absorbing and steepening crack line to the top.</climb>
<climb id="201" stars="**" extra="≈" number="93." name="Swallowing Tommys Nuts" length="20m" grade="17" fa="Henk Morgans, Jayd Blunden, Dale Cokley, Thomas Cramer, Jan 2016">Quality finger and hand jamming. Step right to anchor.</climb>
<climb id="202" stars="*" extra="Mixed" number="94." name="Changeling" length="18m" grade="19" fa="Hamish Jackson, Christoph Speer, Nov 2022">Juggy and sustained face climbing featuring some bizarre huecos. Layback the flakes (crux) to a stance, then follow the intermittent cracks to finish up the steep face past to the top. Take small / medium wires and finger sized cams for the middle.</climb>
<climb id="203" stars="" extra="" number="95." name="Pissing in my Kayak" length="18m" grade="16" fa="Jayd Blunden, Thomas Cramer, Dale Cokley, Henk Morgans, Jan 2016">Nice bridging and face climbing up the featured open corner and crack-line, stepping left to lower-off at the top. Take care with the rock quality.</climb>
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<climb id="205" stars="" extra="" number="96." name="Misadventures at Sea" length="18m" grade="16" fa="Henk Morgans, Jayd Blunden, Dale Cokley, Thomas Cramer, Jan 2016.">Nice climbing up the featured crack / face on interesting water-washed rock. Walk-off right and abseil from the top of Buffet Buttress. Originally started from the corner to the right, but better if climbed direct.</climb>
<climb id="233" stars="*" extra="Mixed" number="97." name="Lucky Charms" length="18m" grade="22" fa="Fraser L-R, Christoph Speer, Jan 2023">Feeling lucky? Pleasant climbing up the well-protected crack-line and flakes leads to a steep and challenging headwall. The crux at the top is protected with a U. You can scoot right (then back) to avoid it at grade 19.</climb>
<climb id="208" stars="*" extra="Mixed" number="98." name="Delicious Fish" length="16m" grade="19" fa="Christoph Speer, Fraser L-R, Jan 2023">Technical, sustained and well-protected. Climb to the horizontal break from the left, with tenuous moves leading past the two Us just left of the arete (crux). Continue up the finger crack to finish right.</climb>
<climb id="237" stars="*" extra="" number="99." name="Salt Flakes (Left Exit)" length="16m" grade="17" fa="Christoph Speer, Jai Friend, Nov 2022">The original start to the finger crack on Delicious Fish. Climb Salt Flakes to the first rooflet, then traverse left to the finger crack and finish up this, as for Delicious Fish.</climb>
<climb id="209" stars="**" extra="" number="100." name="Salt Flakes" length="16m" grade="16" fa="Hamish Jackson, Christoph Speer, Nov 2022">Great climbing up the flakes and cracks, with a neat finish. Well-protected.</climb>
<climb id="210" stars="" extra="" number="101." name="Captain Crunch" length="16m" grade="16" fa="Fraser L-R, Christoph Speer, Dec 2022">Good climbing up the corner just right of Salt Flakes. Adequately protected, but requires some thought at the crux (rooflet). Step left at top to finish as for Salt Flakes.</climb>
<text id="207" class="text">The next few climbs finish on a pleasant rock ledge, a good spot to stop for lunch. Use the DBB set-back from the ledge to belay and abseil from. This buttress is swell and tide affected - climb at low tide with a low swell.</text>
<image id="228" src="Buffet Buttress.jpeg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Buffet Buttress" legendx="422" legendy="12">
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<climb id="212" stars="*" extra="≈" number="102." name="Seafood Extender" length="15m" grade="21" fa="Fraser L-R, Christoph Speer, Dec 2022">The fingery direct start to Anchovy Arete, climbing the stepped crack below the ramp. A bold start, but is OK with a good spot until the first piece (wire) goes in at 3m.</climb>
<climb id="211" stars="*" extra="≈" number="103." name="Anchovy Arete" length="16m" grade="18" fa="Christoph Speer, Fraser L-R, Dec 2022">A small climb that’s big on flavour. Start up the handcrack, then move up the interesting left-trending diagonal crack system until you can climb the face and arete above. gear is a bit sparse just after the traverse. Can also be started from the corner as for Captain Crunch.</climb>
<climb id="213" stars="*" extra="≈" number="104." name="Chips Ahoy" length="16m" grade="20" fa="Fraser L-R, Christoph Speer, Dec 2022">Up the crack and into the compartment, then make your escape through the unique v-groove chimney. Jam through the roof and finish up the crack to the top.</climb>
<climb id="214" stars="*" extra="≈" number="105." name="Piña Colada Perfection" length="16m" grade="19" fa="Christoph Speer, Fraser L-R, Dec 2022">Up the easy face and crack trending left into the undercut. Step right into the crack-line on the face and layback and finger jam your way up with good protection. <br/><br/>1 part white rum, 2 parts pineapple juice, 1 part coconut cream (half sugar / half coconut milk) - add ice, blend & serve.</climb>
<climb id="215" stars="*" extra="≈" number="106." name="Rinse, Repeat" length="16m" grade="17" fa="Christoph Speer, Jai Friend, Nov 2022">Lovely dolerite jamming. The perfect, water-washed hand-crack with a face climbing crux at the top.</climb>
<image id="236" src="IMG_3577.jpg" height="547" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Mussel Memory Wall" legendx="3" legendy="4">
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<climb id="234" stars="*" extra="≈ Þ" number="107." name="Mussel Memory" length="13m" grade="25" fa="Fraser L-R, Jan 2023">The thin, sustained and technical arete, keeping out of FCCC. Will shred fingers.</climb>
<climb id="242" stars="" extra="" number="108." name="Highball Boulder Problem" length="7m" grade="24?" fa="">The thin crack.</climb>
<climb id="216" stars="" extra="≈" number="109." name="French Canadian Canoe Corner" length="14m" grade="14" fa="Christoph Speer, Fraser L-R, Dec 2022">The obvious corner crack. Awkward jamming and bridging up the inward flaring crack-line. Hexes or large nuts are useful.</climb>
<climb id="217" stars="" extra="" number="110." name="Bogans in Boats" length="8m" grade="13" fa="Christoph Speer, Lachlan Mckenzie, Feb 2021">Pretty damn worthless. Next small corner right of FCCC. Hand jam up the corner crack to the ledge, then finish up the finger crack. Trad belay and walk-off.</climb>
<climb id="229" stars="" extra="" number="111." name="Exit Route" length="6m" grade="6" fa="">Do this to get out if the swell comes up and you get trapped. Up the slab just right of Bogans in Boats (don't be too proud to rope-up). Walk-off to the track through the scrub (trending left is easier).</climb>
<climb id="235" stars="*" extra="" number="112." name="Novelty Climb" length="17m" grade="5" fa="Fraser L-R (solo), Jan 2023">The deep and dark chimney on your right just before the rock-hop to the main crag. Climb the chimney and exit via the hole in the top between the huge boulder. Easily protected.</climb>
<text id="290" class="text">There are some boulder problems at the start of the approach to the crag (about 4-5m high) that are worthwhile.</text>
<text id="254" class="heading2">Bivouac Bay Crag</text>
<text id="268" class="text">The last of the trio of crags in the bay. The crag is just over an hours walk from the Fortescue Bay campground, a 15 minute walk away from the Bivouac Bay campsite, or a 15 minute kayak from the boat ramp. The rock here is water-washed and of good quality. The crag faces South and doesn’t get much sun, so it’s perfect for warm days in summer. <br/><br/>Access is relatively simple, and best approached by kayak. There are good landing locations right next to the crag if the swell is low, which it usually is. This approach makes for a great day out.<br/><br/>If walking; at the small bay just South of Bivouac Bay proper, two meters past the small rocky bridge, cut from the track and head easily down the small gully/dry creek bed to a stony beach. Walk Southwest (towards Canoe Bay) along the shoreline for around 5 minutes until you see a cairn at the tree line. Start heading uphill past this, follow your nose through the scrub until it leads to a descent gully. Down this and walk to the right (facing the sea) to the main cliff. <br/><br/>Please take great care of the vegetation and practice minimal impact on your visit. Be wary of how you store your food. The resident raven knows how to open zips, and has a penchant for power bars.</text>
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<climb id="292" stars="" extra="" number="113." name="Eighty grams of anchovies " length="15m" grade="12" fa="Carl Hansen, Matt Miller, December 2024">Not sure how the developers of the crag missed this soaring line. The easy angled corner to the L of don’t take my baby. Veer R at top to belay/rap from tree</climb>
<climb id="255" stars="*" extra="" number="114." name="Don't Take My Baby" length="15m" grade="16" fa="Chris Lang, Alex Doyle, March 2024">Nice climbing up the box groove, with a convenient tree to rap-off at the top.</climb>
<climb id="257" stars="**" extra="" number="115." name="Cake or Death" length="18m" grade="23" fa="Chris Lang, Alex Doyle, March 2024">It's definitely cake! Take the committing line through the left of the enormous roof to the face crack and face to the top. Rap off a tree near the top. Somewhat spicy (but safe) topout.<br/><br/>Micro cams (.1 and .2) and a small (yellow) offset nut or cam recommended.</climb>
<climb id="259" stars="*" extra="" number="116." name="Life Starts at No.5" length="18m" grade="19" fa="Christoph Speer, Martin Brown, Chris Lang, March 2024">The striking flake / off-width. Jam, layback and struggle up the prominent line to a lower-off. Take a couple #4 and #5 cams. Quite unique, and not bad for this sort of thing.</climb>
<climb id="260" stars="" extra="" number="117." name="Are You Serious" length="18m" grade="17" fa="Chris Lang, Alex Doyle, March 2024">The crack/groove just right of the flake, traversing left to the anchor at the top.</climb>
<climb id="261" stars="*" extra="" number="118." name="The Illusion Delusion" length="15m" grade="18" fa="Christoph Speer, Martin Brown, Chris Lang, Alex Doyle, March 2024">Very entertaining climbing. Steep jamming with a neat bulge a half height. Looks 2 grades harder but holds appear when desired. Take a #4.</climb>
<text id="319" class="text">The thin face between the Illusion Delusion and Blank Canvas has been top roped, and considered too close to the cracks for consideration as a separate route.</text>
<climb id="262" stars="*" extra="" number="119." name="Blank Canvas" length="15m" grade="16" fa="Chris Lang, Christoph Speer, February 2024">The appealing hand crack.</climb>
<climb id="263" stars="**" extra="" number="120." name="Never Let Me Go" length="20m" grade="22" fa="Christoph Speer, Martin Brown, Chris Lang, March 2024">The attractive clean crack in the centre of the buttress.</climb>
<climb id="264" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="121." name="Yak to the Future" length="20m" grade="24" fa="Chris Lang, Martin Brown, Christoph Speer, March 2024">Superb technical climbing up the arete.</climb>
<climb id="265" stars="*" extra="" number="122." name="Double Agent" length="18m" grade="19/18" fa="Chris Lang (left variant), Christoph Speer (direct), February 2024">A classy corner route, with two equally excellent starts. Take the left crack and step across to the main line (19) or go direct (18).<br/></climb>
<climb id="266" stars="**" extra="Þ " number="123." name="Dr. Incognito" length="18m" grade="24" fa="Chris Lang, Martin Brown, Alex Doyle, Christoph Speer, March 2024">Consistent, powerful climbing up the middle of the face and through the small roof.</climb>
<climb id="267" stars="*" extra="" number="124." name="Espresso" length="17m" grade="16" fa="Chris Lang, Christoph Speer, February 2024">Awkward then pleasant hand jamming up the groove crack to the top.</climb>
<text id="322" class="heading1">Cape Nola</text>
<text id="323" class="text">Cape Nola has a range of attractions, most notably The Moai - perhaps the most achievable of the three spires. You can either walk-in to do your chosen route(s) in a day from the car park, or as a more relaxed trip by camping at the Bivouac Bay camp-site. There is good water access and a toilet here, along with tent platforms.<br/><br/>- The Moai is ~10 minutes’ walk away from the camp-site.<br/>- The Golden Pillar a further 10 minutes from this.<br/>- The Bivouac Bay crag is about a 15 minute walk away from camp.</text>
<text id="243" class="heading2">The Moai</text>
<text class="text" id="65">The Moai completes the trilogy. No aid, no swim, just quality routes - uncompromisingly modern in style - in a wild and scenic location. The Moai is a lone column of dolerite beside the sea, north of Fortescue Bay. Amidst the walls of rock along the coastline it stands apart, resting upon an altar formed by a rock platform, like a discontinuity in the time-space continuum. Its spiritual significance is obvious. Rock is not simply the medium for the sport, as only climbers know, the rock is sacred and the Moai is a shrine to the Rock Gods - a place of worship. (Editor's note: Moai is the name of the monoliths on Easter Island, pronounced "mow"-"eye")<br/><br/>To get to the Moai, walk along the beach from Fortescue Bay and onto the track to Waterfall Bay. About 1 hour 30 minutes of walking takes you to Bivouac Bay (good camp site with toilet). From Bivouac Bay, continue along the track for about 10 minutes until the crest of the spur is reached; there are two sawn stumps (approx. 40cm diameter) on the track here. Another 20m (approximately) along the track a small cairn marks the route to the abseils. Additional cairns and faded yellow (i.e. white) tape marks the route. Finally, climb around a large boulder to reach the abseil anchors (a U and a chain-link about 100m from the track). The first abseil is 15m (grade 16 if you want to climb back out). There are then two more of similar height off trees (these two can be done together as a 50m abseil and are about grade 12 if you're climbing out). Alternatively, a 60m rope fixed from the top anchors will just reach the bottom. From the bottom of the abseils it is relatively straightforward to scramble down to the rock platform. At most times, the rock platform is unthreatened by waves, but in certain heavier swell conditions waves do occasionally sweep across. Take care if the sea is rough, especially on the scramble to the platform.</text>
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<climb id="68" name="Burning Spear" number="125." fa="Stephan Eberhard, Oct 1994." grade="18" length="20m" extra="" stars="*">Start in the short chimney (at the left-most part of the base that has easy access). Steep but juggy climbing leads to the belay ledge (rap anchors). Good natural gear.</climb>
<climb id="69" name="Blunt Instrument" number="126." fa="Roger Parkyn, Dec 1994." grade="22" length="20m" extra="" stars="***">Widely regarded as a classic of Tasmania for this grade. Two U's lead towards a flake: go either directly to the flake or go left up and back right to it. There are then cracks to a ledge half way up the Moai; well protected with mid-sized cams. This ledge is where Burning Spear finishes; anchors here allow this first half to be done as a grade 21. Of course you may as well continue up the arete above and give it a go. There's a sting in the tail - hint: go very slightly left of the second-to-last U. <br/><br/>Historical note:<br/>The second half of this route was originally named "Burning Spear pitch 2" however the style is much more consistent climbed as described, which is what most people do, so the name was changed accordingly.</climb>
<climb id="70" name="Ancient Astronaught" number="127." fa="R.Parkyn, G.Phillips, Sep 1994." grade="24" length="35m" extra="Þ" stars="**">Best to pre-equip the bolts on the way down from another route.<br/>1. 25m 24. Crank through the overhang at the base of the NE arête. Continue up the arête and the wall to its L.<br/>2. 10m 20. Blast straight up from the belay ledge then trend R via the last U to finish on the R side of the arête. No natural gear required on either pitch.</climb>
<climb id="71" name="Sacred Site" number="128." fa="R.Eberhard, R.Parkyn, Aug 1994." grade="18" length="35m" extra="" stars="**">The most attainable route up the most attainable spire. The actual climbing is somewhat short-lived, but this route sees a lot of traffic for a good reason.<br/>1. 10m. Scramble (about grade 2) up to the ledge on the NE side of the Moai.<br/>2. 25m. Climb the corner onto the pedestal then up to the bolt. From the bolt move R 1m then up via a flake. Trend R to another bolt then straight up. Use the anchors of Ancient Astronaught to belay/rappel (a single 50m rope doubled just makes it down). Take a selection of small to mid-sized cams.<br/><br/>Editors Note: There is a huge loose flake/block above the 2nd bolt on Sacred Site. It is the flake that takes the gear!</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="72">Moai Mainland Wall</text>
<text class="text" id="73">On the cliff facing the Moai (i.e. part of the mainland) there are several pleasant routes. To get to them scramble down past the small cave at water level and up onto the ledges above. The first three routes all start from the same ledge (looks slopey from the Moai). There is a rap anchor above Thunderstruck.</text>
<climb id="145" stars="**" extra="" number="129." name="no name 1001" length="18m" grade="21" fa="Kim Laddigies and Garry Phillips Jan 2019">Finger crack in the middle of the face. Starts at sea level. Great climbing up a lovely line. Gear from .2 to 1 camolot.<br/>Rap anchors at the top.</climb>
<climb id="74" name="The Firing Line" number="130." fa="Sam Edwards, Oct 1994." grade="18" length="15m" extra="">The continuous finger crack.</climb>
<climb id="75" name="The Hands of Chaos" number="131." fa="Sam Edwards, Oct 1994." grade="17" length="15m" extra="" stars="">The hand crack two metres R of The Firing Line. There is a rectangular block that sticks out near the top.</climb>
<climb id="76" name="Mr Whippy" number="132." fa="J.Morgan, Oct 1994." grade="16" length="15m" extra="" stars="">The twin cracks in a short chimney two metres R of The Hands of Chaos.</climb>
<climb id="77" name="Thunderstruck" number="133." fa="Garry Phillips, Oct 1994." grade="17" length="25m" extra="" stars="">The zig-zag (thunder-bolt) crack about 20m R of Mr Whippy. A quality route with rap anchors at the top.</climb>
<text class="text" id="78">Other crack routes exist about 100m away in the direction of Cape Huay. Editor's note: Climbs were done in the Dolomieu Point area by Peacock et al in the early eighties. These are different routes. I couldn't determine the location of the earlier route with sufficient accuracy (refer to CCT circulars 1982 -- issue #145).</text>
<climb id="79" name="Garn's Horror Climb" number="134." fa="Garn Copper, Feb 1995." grade="18" length="40m" extra="" stars="">Start about 3/4 of the way L along the first cliffs encountered, below the L side of the ledge about 15m up. 1. 15m. Up the crack, corner and face to the ledge. 2. 24m. Traverse about 4m R along the ledge then up a hand-crack. Continue through a roof then up the next hand-crack on the R.</climb>
<climb id="80" name="Squeeze" number="135." fa="Sam Edwards, Feb 1995." grade="17" length="18m" extra="" stars="">The wide crack about 10m R of Garn's Horror Climb passing through the R side of a roof then climb straight up the crack to the ledge.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="81">The Golden Pillar</text>
<text class="text" id="82">Located about 10 minutes’ walk further along the track from the Moai turn-off is a large orange arete (GPS code FTS010), visible from the track at the first lookout you come to. This is a big, exposed cliff, and starting your route at the lonely ledges below is cathartic. For the full experience - pull your ropes! But don't underestimate the serious nature of climbing here, walking out from the base would be a real PITA. Although the routes to date have been extensively cleaned, The Golden Pillar is known for having friable rock, and the quality on the routes can vary anywhere from good to quite average. However, the gear is generally in sound rock. Potential routes to the right of the Golden Pillar have been investigated, but the rock quality starts to deteriorate significantly.<br/><br/>The Pillar is located only a few metres from the track. Use the abseil anchors at the top of the cliff for getting down to the routes - check the individual route descriptions for details.<br/><br/>Be wary of how you store your food. The resident raven knows how to open zips, and has a penchant for power bars.</text>
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</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>245</climb>
<climb>246</climb>
<climb>270</climb>
<climb>247</climb>
<climb>248</climb>
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<climb id="245" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="136." name="The Secret Ingredient" length="25m" grade="23" fa="Chris Lang, Christoph Speer, Jan 2024">Great climbing straight up the face in a very exposed position. There are two cruxes. Take 11 quickdraws + anchor material.<br/><br/>Abseil 25m from the DBB near the arete, to a small ledge with DBB.<br/></climb>
<climb id="246" stars="***" extra="Mixed" number="137." name="The Edge of Reason" length="30m" grade="25" fa="Chris Lang, Christoph Speer, Jan 2024, (first pitch from ground by Tom Baanders - not recommended!, Mar 2024)">An incredible pitch. Abseil 30m from the DBB at the start of ‘The Secret Ingredient…’ to another DBB below a roof on a sloping ledge. Climb through the roof on its right and into a finger / hand crack. Follow this until the Us appear, trending left and climb the side of the arete to the anchors. Finish up either ‘The Secret Ingredient…’ or start the traverse into ‘The Pud Life’ to exit.<br/><br/>Recommended gear; cams #0.3 to #2 with extra #0.4 and #0.5, a black offset nut, and at least 9 quick draws.</climb>
<climb id="270" stars="" extra="Chossy" number="138." name="Beyond the Edge of Reason" length="40m" grade="18" fa="Tom Baanders, Sarah Groth, March 2024">Some choice quotes from the first ascentionist: <br/><br/>"Climbed a choss first pitch from the ground (kayak access)...wouldn’t recommend."<br/><br/>"...some of the worst rock imaginable... it's quite impressive how bad some of the sea cliff Dolerite can be. It looks compact and then just sheds scales."<br/><br/>"the rock quality is filthier than a nightclub bathroom"<br/><br/>Despite the sage words, the kayak approach may mean the pitch is worth repeating. Take a triple rack including big gear (#3 & #4) if you want it to be a bit more pleasant.</climb>
<climb id="247" stars="**" extra="" number="139." name="The Pud Life" length="30m" grade="17" fa="Chris Lang, Christoph Speer, Dec 2023">A phenomenal adventure for the grade that will test the resolve of both the leader and second. Sustained and well-protected, this route is at the very top of its grade - take care of some friable rock. Recommended gear: Wires and double rack of cams, with a single #4 and triple #2 and #3. Access as for ‘The Secret Ingredient…’.<br/><br/>From the belay ledge, clip the low U to the right and traverse 2m right to jugs and the base of a hidden hand-crack. Follow this to a stance at a small ledge with a roof. Traverse airily right again for 2m to gain the base of another hidden clean crack. Follow this and the face above to the top. Either traverse right at the lip to gain the DBB or top out and belay from the tree (please protect the bark).</climb>
<climb id="248" stars="*" extra="" number="140." name="The Salty Swine" length="50m" grade="22" fa="Christoph Speer, Chris Lang, Jan 2024">Very sustained crack climbing up a remarkable line. The route is well-protected and the climbing excellent - friable rock detracts from the overall quality. Take a full trad rack, including a set of wires and double rack of cams from BD #0.2 - #3. Extra cams around finger size and a #4 are useful.<br/><br/>Access to the start of the route is from a DBB 20cm over the edge of the cliff (you can use the large tree about 5m from the edge to help access these if you wish - use a sling on the tree to protect it). Two 25m abseils from the DBBs takes you to the start of the route, at a small ledge at the base of a large twin-edged flake (equipped with DBB).<br/><br/>1. 25m 20. Climb the thoughtful twin-edged flake to a stance, then continue up the main line past some technical flared jamming. Continue up the line with a final pull around a small bulge to the DBB.<br/>2. 25m 22. A great pitch. Finger jam, bridge and layback the sustained finger crack, followed by some steamy stemming to reach good holds. Continue more easily to the top to finish.</climb>
<climb id="83" name="The Golden Pillar of Fortescue" number="141." fa="Steve Monks and Steve Findlay, Feb 2003." grade="25" length="60m" extra="Mixed" stars="**">The original route on the cliff that has seen repeat ascentionists log some serious air time! It's gone up a grade (now 25) after several holds fell off the second pitch.<br/><br/>Access - Locate a pair of carrot bolts on top of the pillar (these may be covered by foliage). Alternatively look for the DBB at the end of the third pitch close to the carrots described earlier. The DBB can be reached from the top and is in vertical rock on the north-east side of the pillar 30cm over the edge. Abseil with a 60m fixed rope, or, if brave, abseil in three pitches, from double bolts, using a single 60 metre rope. <br/><br/>Gear - You will need eight hangers and a dozen draws, a medium wire (No.5 Rock) and Cams 0.4, 0.5, 0.75 & 1 (BD C4s). The route is equipped with a mixture of stainless expansion bolts with hangers and (bash-in!) stainless carrots. The route is somewhat run-out in places, so pack your bravery pills. There could be another pitch below.<br/><br/>1. 25m 24. Move up a slight flake crack on the R, via the 0.4 and 0.5 camalot, and pull left onto the arête at a fixed hanger. Climb with increasing difficulty via carrots and some fixed hangers to a slight runout to the belay. <br/>2. 25m 25. Continue up the arête on slightly worsening rock , where a #5 Rock eases tricky moves up to a short crack. Again there is a slight runout to the belay, but a 0.75 cam helps. <br/>3. 10m 19. Climb the groove to a carrot, step R and go up a solid hand crack past a second carrot to the top.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="85">The Thumbs</text>
<text id="88">Access to date has been via kayak, paddling north from The Moai. Grid Ref 79650, 26100 on the TasMap Hippolyte sheet.</text>
<image id="127" height="541" src="Thumbs topo.jpg"/>
<climb id="86" name="Hippolyte Crack " number="142." fa="David Gray, Carol Hurst, November 1997." grade="15" length="25m">A clean bulging corner, just north of point. Climb the hand crack in the corner.</climb>
<climb id="87" name="Diciannove" number="143." fa="David Gray,Carol Hurst, November 1997." grade="20" length="25m" extra="" stars="">Thin face crack a few metres L of Hippolyte Crack.</climb>
</guide>
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A video of an early ascent of the Candlestick: Sportsnight - The Candlestick_(360p).mp4