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A couple of new routes from our recent Tassie Trip

Tasman Peninsula

The Swell Repeller 55m 24 sport
Two pitches of stunning arêtes and all bolts. A great bad weather option when the Tote is being hammered by the swell. Fix a 60m rope to double rings as for the Totem Pole descent but rap diagonally towards the ocean (south east) heading down a scungy corner to a ledge. Continue rapping down wall below to arrive at double FHs on small ledge just left of knife blade arête about 5m above the ocean. Pitch One 40m 24 - Climb amazing sustained arête past 10 FHs that get fairly spaced as you get higher. Belay at vegetated ledge at DBB. Pitch Two 15m 20 - Up thin crack splitting arête above with great exposure to small ledge. Sling tooth with large sling and climb easily to top. Belay off the Tote's rap rings. FFA Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith 3.1.2006

Tyndall Ranges - Lake Huntley

Bleeding Ferals Prow 45m 21 mixed
Needs another 4 or 5 bolts to make it sane. Unfortunately we only brought two bolts with us! Located on end of second buttress north east of camping cave over looking the lake. This buttress has a distinct red capstone layer that is visible from above Rain Dancer (about 300m away). Walk to end of jutting buttress and locate single FH anchor bolt on last vertical rock before congomlorate ridge slabs down below. A #2 cam slot is about 5m back from this bolt anchor and should be used to backup this bolt anchor. Fix a single rope and rap 40m down the ridge to the large flat ledge (sleeps 5 if you are keen!). This is the second ledge down the route and is big enough to walk around on un-roped. Use fixed rope as anchor for belayer. The climb starts on the far left end of the ledge (facing cliff). Up left side of prow (no gear) to gain flake and marginal wires at 7m. Up flake to gain arête proper (FH). Boldly up face on the left side of the arête (crux) and trend rightwards to terrifyingly exposed position on the arête with bolt miles below and out of sight. Whittle in some poor trad behind crystals and climb jugs to small ledge. Continue up slabby arête above on spaced trad gear to top. Would be a much nicer route once retrobolted. FFA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 6.1.2006

We also did a new route at the Paradiso.

Random People 15m 24/25 mixed
Locate din the middle of the crag between the main wall and Aracknaphbia. FHs through rooflet down low (crux) then easily up featured face above to double ring lower-off past another 3 FHs and a #3 cam slot. The crux is quite out of keeping with the rest of the route. Neil Monteith 3.1.2006 (one rest due to slimy rock)

Unfortunately on Saturday 21st Jan there was a fatal climbing accident on the Organ Pipes. The name of the climber has not yet been released.

More details at

• Chockstone
• http://www.abc.net.au/news/newsitems/200601/s1552510.htm
• http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/common/story_page/0,5744,17901204%255E1702,00.html

In the latest Rock mag says:
"Dave Barnes reports that there has been substantial development of a new crag in Hobart. Apparently it is 'very local' and will yield many middle-grade routes of good height and quality in close proximity to the Hobart Post Office. Stay posted..."

Has anyone got the scoop on this? Is it one of the Ferntree crags?

A few years' ago we did what we thought was the traditional Candlestick route. Half way up the first pitch a local friend of ours arrived to inform us we were on the wrong route. We continued up anyway. We later found out that the first 2 pitches was a relativley new route (climbed about 9 months before us) called 'Nicoles route'.

From the top of the second pitch on Nicoles route we scrambled up a steep ledge to belay near the back of the Candlestick. From here I traversed left a few meters then went straight up a sensational hand/finger crack. This finished with a small ledge, then a short wall to another ledge. At the second 'belay' ledge there were two bolt holes drilled but no bolts. From this belay point the saddle of the Candlestick was reached by walking along the ridge top.

Does anyone have any information on this third pitch? I hope we didn't steal someones route but we did climb it ground/water up thinking we were in new territory. Grade was approximately 17 or 18 from memory, and probably about 20-30m. Excellent all round climb with first two pitches of NR and finishing up the summit of the traditional route.

The Climb Tasmania Selected Best Guide was launched on 10th December with a climbing meet/competition at Hillwood followed by a Bbq, slideshow by Nick Hancock and speech by Peter Jackson. About 50 people attended. The climbing day was a real success. The difficulty comp was jointly won by Jake Bresnehan and Gary Phillips who redpointed the Living End (28). The speed comp was won by Cameron - can't remember his surname, from Hobart, a young climber who raced up a grade 16 on the Chessboard in 22.73 seconds. The gear treasure hunt was enthusiastically pursued by all. Paddy pallin Launceston donated about $1000 worth of gear. Each climber had a list of 25 cryptic clues linked to the guidebook from which they had to deduce the name of the route which had the prize. They had to lead the route and claim a numbered tag on the anchors, which they handed in to redeem their prize.
Peter Jackson gave an inspiring speech reminding us of the reasons why we climb, and what a unique place Tasmania is for climbing which we need to preserve and treasure for future generations. The response to the selected best guide by locals and interstate visitors has been very positive.

from Gerry Narkowicz

I was scribbling some history notes for one of Melbourne's local bouldering areas recently. That got me started thinking about the history and progression of bouldering in Australia and it's lack of documentation.

For Victorian bouldering history, other than a few more detailed snippets about Arapiles, and a little about the development of Stapylton bouldering my knowledge is limited. For other States I know even less!

There appears to be a lack of documented history for a facet of climbing which I personally get alot of pleasure.

Stone Crusade by John Sherman is a great example of a book about the history of bouldering (USA) with photographs, stories and anecdotes filling it's many pages.

Many will think that bouldering is a new game, and won't be aware of the long and proud history of bouldering in this country.

So if people would like to add historic information for bouldering Australia wide (not just Tasmania) I would be very interested to know about it.

Pictures, stories, contacts and anecdotes all welcome.

Thanks Martin

The last of the projects at Nerm's boulder at Sphinx Rock went yesterday. Morgan did the arete, which is the standout line on the boulder, at about V6. Jon Nermut did the line starting up Yoshimi that traverses right to the arete at about V5. Both are classic problems.

Meanwhile Jon and Dave Humphries have been developing some more nice moderate dolerite boulders at Luckmans Hut, topos soon.

I'm going to do a print run of the bouldering guide in the next few weeks, so if anyone has any contributions to make, get them in.

Received this from Gerry:

Hi Jonathon,
see attached sneak preview of cover of the new guide. Could you post this on your website and let people know that it should be avaialble 1st week December if all goes to plan with the printer. Your readers can get a discount from us if they order as a result of the promo on your website. $35 includes postage. Retail is $39.95 - a saving of $5. There is the possibility of a climbing comp/bbq/booze up/slideshow at Hillwood to launch the guide in December. Stay tune for details.
regards,
gerry

and also:

Just letting you know about the guidebook launch for the Tassie selected best book is on Saturday 10th December at Hillwood. It will be a climbing comp followed by bbq/slides at the Hillwood Hall. Starts at 11am. Cost is $15 includes your tea. There will be competitions for difficulty, speed and endurance. There'll also be a climbing gear treasure hunt for heaps of gear clipped to bolts all over Hillwood which people find by cryptic clues. All those who buy the new guide get a ticket in a raffle to win a major prize like a rope or something. Spread the word around and hope to see you there.
best wishes,
Gerry Narkowicz

Email gerry at pnarkowi@tassie.net.au if you are interested in his offer.
This is the cover from the guide:

howdy,
I'll be at Freycinet for 5 or so days over christmas / new years, and was wondering if anyone had some route suggestions. I climb around 20/21 on gear, a little harder on bolts. Most of my climbing is at Arapiles, so I'm not sure how they will translate to Freycinet granite. I've sorted out a hit list of sorts from craglets, but I thought I'd check with the locals to make sure I don't miss any classics.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
cheers
Cam

howdy,
I'm heading to down to Tas over chrissy / new years for a spot of climbing, mainly focussing on Freycinet, and was wondering if it was possible to get some beta for the sea level traverse. I've got the 6th edition of craglets and while it gives a general overview of the thing, it's not all that specific. So, if anyone's done it
-How long did it take? (guide says 8 hours, is this reasonable?)
-How many roped pitches are there?
-What sort of rack did you take?
-How well protected is it?
-How hard is it to find / stay on route?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
cheers
Cam

The new review of the Mt Wellington Bike Strategy is open for comment until the 17th October.
See http://www.wellingtonpark.tas.gov.au/3_5.htm

One of the most interesting recommendations is for a new track from the Springs to Junction Cabin and then on to the bike park:

Recommendation 3

Undertake further feasibility investigations and assessments for:

• the construction of a bike trail from Shoobridge Bend to Junction Cabin below the existing Lenah Valley Track;
• construction of a track between The Springs and the new track from Shoobridge Bend suitable for shared use;
• continue the bike link from Junction Cabin to Kangaroo Fire Trail and thus link to the Glenorchy Mountain Bike Park);
• investigating the option of a new downhill bike riding link from the proposed new track to Middle Island Fire Trail or Main Fire Trail and with a possible connection to the Rivulet Track.

Recommendation 5

Depending on available resources, investigations be undertaken into the need and possible community and Park user support for bike access to:

• Old Farm Track (south fork);
• some sections of the fire breaks on the Main Fire Trail;
• the former 'Drops Track' linking Bracken Lane fire trail to Rivulet Track;
• Knocklofty Reserve through Noahs Saddle and connecting with the fire trails within Wellington Park (near junction with the Main fire trail);
• Goat Hills within the City of Glenorchy over land managed by the Council;
• extension of the Rivulet bike path along the Hobart Rivulet to Strickland Avenue (to connect to the nearby Rivulet Track) by negotiated access agreement with the land owner, Cascade Brewery; and
• possibly from Waterworks to Ridgeway Park and to Summerleas Road and Fern Tree (this may require negotiated access agreement over private land).

Details of Round 1 of the MTB Nationals to be held at the Glenorchy Bike Park on October 29-30 have been posted at http://tasbikepark.com/events.php.

An excerpt:

The Glenorchy Mountain Bike Park Association and the Dirt Devils Mountain Bike Club in association with MTBA presents Round 1 of the 2005/2006 National Mountain Bike Series

(XC & DH) and Round 2 (MTX)

October 29-30 2005 in Glenorchy (Hobart), Tasmania, Australia

Registration

Friday 28th October 1.30PM - 4.00PM
Saturday 29th October 7.00AM - 3.00PM
Sunday 30th October 7.00AM - 9.00AM

Postal entries must be received by Friday 21st October 2005

Courses

Take the opportunity to check out Australia's latest purpose built mountain bike park. The Glenorchy Mountain Bike Park is only 15 minutes out from Hobart's city centre. Downhill, X-Country, Mountain-X, and Dirt Jumps all centred in one facility that has been professionally designed by Glen Jacobs.

The XC course is a 20 to 30 minute circuit that winds around the whole park and through the race village. Lots of variation in terrain and landscapes, with climbs, downhills and technical sections throughout the course. The entire course should be negotiable for experienced riders however.

The Downhill starts at an elevation of approximately 400m and drops down to the race village at 160m- taking around four minutes to complete. Technical sections, fast flowing sections, drops, jumps, rock gardens and some big forest - this is a long course with heaps of variation and technical features.

The MTN-X course is located in the centre of the race village. The whole course is around six metres wide and has multiple line options. Expect the lead to change often on this monster-Australia's biggest Mountain Cross course.

Some great dirt jump trails are also tucked into the forest around the race village to keep you entertained between races.

Trail map and images available at www.tasbikepark.com

Event Hype

The only combined Downhill, Cross Country and Mountain Cross event in the 2005/06 National Series is being held at the recently opened Glenorchy Mountain Bike Park, in Hobart.

"Expect the Tasmanians to put on a huge show! Readers of other MTB websites will already know that the newest and biggest MTN X course in Australia has just been built in Tassie, which together with perfect weather for mountain biking, great beer and a very enthusiastic local crew: this event will rock." (Tony Scott, President Mountain Bike Australia).

Come and check out Australia's latest purpose built Mountain Bike Park, only 15 minutes out from the City Centre of Hobart. Designed by world-renowned course designer Glen Jacobs - think Sydney Olympics, World Cup, World Championships - over 150 courses in 17 countries, yet he calls this: "the most exciting project for years - the location, the tracks, the people. The place is set to become a major mountain biking destination. There is nothing else like it in Australia." (Glen Jacobs, Mudcow Visions)

The trip down to Tassie will be well worth it. A huge event is in store, with lots of local support and a prize pool expected to exceed $10,000 - including some awesome prizes and giveaways (e.g. Kona jump bike - thanks to Kona and Treadlies).

The Frenchmans Cap has been completely rewritten based on Phil Robinson's 1979 guide, and is now back online.

Thanks to Phil for providing the material and editing the drafts, and to Pete Steane for allowing the use of his 1991 and subsequent route descriptions.

The guide could probably do with a hi-res photo topo. So if anyone has a clear 4 mega pixel or higher image of the main face of Frenchmans as viewed from Barron Pass, please contribute.

• Go to the Frenchmans Cap

This is a video of Dis-Abled (V6) at the Reservoir taken by Dave Humphries.

There have been quite a few pods of whales of the coast this year. I spotted a couple of Cape Raoul, Stella saw a mother and a calf in Adventure Bay, and there were several reports in the paper. These photos are of dolphins in the Hobart Docks on Monday 8th Sept, and one of the whale in Adventure Bay

Dolphins in the hobart docks	Whale at adventure bay	Dolphins in the hobart docks	Dolphins in the hobart docks
Dolphins in the hobart docks