Blog

Despite the cold weather, some new problems have been done around the place.

Last weekend at Oatlands, Aubrey finished the project between Blood Lust and Time on the Hidden Wall, at about V7. It was quickly repeated by Dave from Syndey and Paul Westwood. On the same wall Morgan did the dyno variant to Kim's Highball, at about V4.
Dave Humphries and myself have done a bit of gardening to the right of Rumble Cave to produce a good little area with 4 problems so far.
Back in April Dave H, Jon N, Aubrey and Al Williams did about 10 or so new moderate problems on the Island, most of which seemed to involve a mantle.
At the Reservoir in Hobart I finished another project, the high traverse rightwards across the main face, which went at V5 or 6.
I have also started doing some problems at Crocodile Rock, on Mt Wellington. 3 probs so far, with about 5 more to do.
Earlier in the year Aubrey, Morgan and friends starting developing a new area out behind Sheffield, on a hillside of freestanding conglomerate boulders. It apparently has quite a bit of potential, but its a fair mission from Hobart. Topos to come when Aubrey has done all the good stuff.

This is from the chockstone forums:

Last week Steve Monks and I put up a new route at Cape Hauy, overlooking the Totem Pole, Candlestick and Lanterns. It's awesome, awesome, AWESOME!! A great alternative if you go to do the Free Route on the Totem Pole and the seas are too big. The bottom ledge for this route is 15 metres off sea level, so the route will be a goer in most seas. Seepage is minimal. It's well protected from winds NE,W to SW.
The route is 100m long, with 85m of pure crack pleasure!!
Candle in the Wind 100m 25
P1 : 15m 24 Off the deck past 3 carrots to 2 fixed hangers. Natural gear also
P2 : 30m 25 Straight up crack to belay stance at 2 ring bolts
P3 : 30m 22/23 continue up crack to ledge/ 2 ring bolts
P4 : 25m 18/19 crack/corner to top
Gear required: 60m climbing rope, 2 sets of wires, double set cams to #3 Camalot, hexes, 3 bolt plates lots of draws.
To get there, follow the Cape Hauy track from Fortescue Bay as for the Totem Pole. At the "Track Ends 50 metres" sign DO NOT turn off left (as for the tote), rather go to the end of the track, to the rock edge/lookout. Rap rings are located on the left (looking out), just over the edge. The raps are 25m from top to a ledge( 2 rings), 30m to 2 rings, 30m to 2 fixed hangers then 15m to the bottom ledge, which is huge. It's a good view across to the totem pole from here.
I'll post topo/photos asap, and send all the details thru to Gerry. Anyone heading out there and wanting info call me 0413365427.
Enjoy
Adrian Laing

UPCOMING EVENT...

Australian Climbing Festival

Work has begun on Australia's very own climbing festival.
The festival will be held in the Blue Mountains over the Easter long weekend in 2007 (April 7/8). It will showcase guest speakers, films, photography, clinics, climbing comp., writing, as well as great food & music for socializing.
It aims to inspire, inform and bring all keen climbers together from around Australia. At this stage we are looking for feedback, ideas, and anyone who can help.

Adam Donoghue (Festival Organiser)

I went for a drive down Green Valley Road behind Bagdad on the weekend, and saw quite a bit of sandstone cliffs and boulders. Has anyone done any routes or problems out there? Unfortunately it all looks like its on private land. Its part of the same sandstone band as elderslie.

Also, I could see a little cliff between a gap in the hills north of kempton, looking west. Is this Apsley Edge? Or is it actually closer to apsley? Apparantly there was actually a guide produced for it a fair while back. Anyone know if the cliff is any good, and its current status?

Cheers,

Jon

Jon,

Saw your query regarding Apsley Edge and the response from Noel Ward. To get there is easy. Follow the Lake Hwy from Melton Mowbray for 6km then take RH turn to Lower Marshes. About 5km along here the road crosses the Jordan River and then a side stream (Spring Hill Creek). The "edge' is sandstone escarpment that is hidden is situated mid-way between the creek and top of the hill to your right. Access is through farmland. A walk of about 15 or so minutes. The crag is very obvious from the Lake Highway heading past the turnoff towards Bothwell.

As Noel suggests, Peter Jackson has done a route guide to the area. Likewise I have a copy of it somewhere. The routes are all fairly short and the carrots are worth being mindful about.

Adios

Al Adams

Does anyone out there have decent slides of any of the following climbs, they would be willing to lend for a Rock magazine article:

Harlequin at Coles Bay
Ghost Rider at Hillwood
Blue Eyed Blonde at Alchemy Wall
Skyrocket on the Pipes
Aqualung at Stacks Bluff

Thanks,
Gerry Narkowicz

From Stephen via Roger:

2006 Climbing Slide Show

Where: Deviot Hall, West Tamar.
When: Sat night, 1st of April. BBQ from 5.00 pm, slides after.
Who: Anyone is welcome.
Facilities: Camping available, or sleep in the Hall. Toilets and playground also available, so kids can come.
Features: NZ climbing trips and more. If you have slides (35mm or electronic) that you want to show please let Steve know.
Good climbing at Hillwood close by.

Stephen.Tristram@utas.edu.au

or ph 63 245469 (w), 63 274565 (h)

Will be down in Hobart this weekend from the hot air capital of Australia - Canberra and would like to climb on the Organ Pipes on Sunday March 19th. Experienced climber, will have a car with only my harness and boots. Email or ring Keith Bell on 02 62822142 or 0416931738. Really hanging out for a climb on the Pipes and would appreciate it if somebody could spare the time.

A video of bouldering around La Nina on the Island from the first weekend in March. The video contains snippets of everybody climbing on the day (Jon, Morgan, Aubrey, Duffy and Dave) and includes attempts/sends of La Nina, El Nino, Buzzy land, the nearby V5 and V2. See Videos

I'm looking for a climbing partner for Freycinet and The Tasman Peninsula for a few days during March. I'll be on a family holiday and plan to slip away for some climbing on some of the following dates:

Freycinet 16th to 18th March
Tasman Peninsula 20th to 22nd March

Sport or trad, grade range 23 to 29. Keen for the Star Factory, Totem Pole and Paradiso.

If you are interested, please reply with a phone number and I'll give you a call.

Cheers,

Mike

Hi i am currently traveling around tassie doing abit of walking and climbing, i am looking for climbing partners (have own rack) , i have already climbed in the gorge and ben lomond but would love to go check out hillwood while i am still in the north. I'll be in launie until friday when i head down to hobart for a couple of weeks where i wouldn't mind having a go at the organ pipes.

Thanks in advance
Brendan

I noticed a new route which has been put up left of Ghost Rider at Hillwood. Can someone please let me know the name and first ascent details so I can update the guide.

Thankyou,

Gerry Narkowicz

Roger has added another craglets update, get it on the Craglets page. New stuff for Crescent Bay, and other bits and pieces.

The Tasmanian Bouldering Guide has passed the 1000 problem mark after I added a bunch of problems at Diamond Island, Bicheno.

It's come along way since Kim's first guide, which had about 100 problems. The first printed guide had about 500. Admittedly there are a couple of hundred projects in that total, but they'll get done one of these days.

I went over to Diamond Island to put up new problems, but most of them had chalk on them already. Anybody want to provide names and grades?

Due to the obvious dissatisfaction of many climbers (both readers and contributors) with ROCK magazine, an idea of a community EZINE has been raised. It would be aimed at the whole climbing community, with content that all climbers find interesting and can relate to.

For more info see thread on cragX

Rock Magazine or Climbers Cosmo Link?

http://bb.bbboy.net/cragx-viewthread?forum=3&thread=184

Rock seems to have become stale and repetitive, to prevent this happening to a new EZINE it has been suggested that each issue have a different editor(s) so that content is more varied. Also this would help keep the EZINE idea alive as it would prevent the "burn out" that surely must be associated with editing issue after issue. (maybe this is part of the problem at rock.)

A poll can be found on cragX

New ezine Poll

http://bb.bbboy.net/cragx-viewthread?forum=3&thread=188

Various formats and models exist for such a EZINE. please put your two cents in.

Remember to be a good read for all it would need contributions from all standards of climbers, from all around Australia. Bumbly to Gun climbers.

Would you help?

Chris Jongewaard has stopped Sid Taberlay's winning run at Wildside, beating Sid by 6 minutes.
The top 5 finishers were:

Place
1 Chris Jongewaard (SA) IM-Open 05:33:07
2 Sid Taberlay (TAS) IM-Open 05:39:50
3 Alistair Farley (VIC) IM-U23 05:47:31
4 Adrian Jackson (VIC) IM-U23 05:51:13
5 Lachlan Norris (VIC) IM-U23 05:54:17
6 Aiden Lefmann (NSW) IM-U23 05:56:54
7 Alex Randall (VIC) IM-Open 05:57:40
8 Hamish Elliot (NSW) IM-U23 05:58:08
9 Daniel Braunsteins (VIC) IM-U23 06:00:14
10 Garry Millburn (NSW) IM-U23 06:05:38

See http://www.wildsidemtb.com/Results/2006/AllStagestoDateCombined.htm