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No, this isn't an attempt to restart the damaging discord that existed about 10 - 15 years ago.  Quite the opposite, in fact.  It seems that this forum is the ideal venue for people to explore aspects of bolting and differences of opinion in a calm and respectful way towards one another.  I suggest that if you are unable to do so it may be better to refrain from making any comment at all.  It would also be good if people who do want to have a say are prepared to log in before commenting, otherwise the validity of your comment comes into question.

First up, plaudits to some of Tassie's early bolters.  Examples include Danny Ng up north, who showed creative vision with the many little gems in the Gorge he opened.  Another example is Phil Cullen's beautiful No Tern Unstoned on White Water Wall.  When Roger Parkyn came to Tassie, it took a while for many of the locals - myself included - to come to terms with his vision, but few would now doubt that Roger's imagination, energy and determination have led to  an incredible enrichment of  the  Tasmanian climbing scene, particularly on the Organ Pipes, which now has a fantastic balance of trad and sport routes.  He has also done some brilliant things on the sea cliffs of the Tasman Peninsula.  And he's still doing it: good on you, Roger!  Mick Fox has also been a spearhead for opening new routes with some great vision (his beautiful lines at Lost Falls show that he is one who is happy to establish routes of beauty for we of more modest ability) and, I believe, his placement of rap anchors in the Gorge have been great for access and reducing erosion.

The establishment of Tassie's most popular sport crag, Hillwood, is largely due to Gerry's energy and enthusiasm.  There are quite a few others who are making prolific contributions today and our climbing scene is the richer for it.

Does all this mean that all that is happening on the bolting front is hunky-dory?  I'd suggest not.  Anyone who placed lots of bolts and has the capacity for self-reflection would, I hope, be able to identify something they may have done differently down the track, if for no other reason, in bolting like other aspects of climbing (and life!) there is a learning curve.

Earlier I referred to Phil Cullen's route at White Water Wall.  The route opening was a great addition to this crag.  It's location wasn't, being too high for the average climber to reach from the stance below.  Other bolts that appeared subsequently could have been better placed too.

Recently two U-bolts were placed at the top of Light-fingered Maddison, apparently to facilitate top-roping.  This has been the topic of much discussion.  If you know the area, please comment.

Some mates of mine staying in the hut at Ben Lomond reported that some Hobart climbers had cut the head off a wombat with a pocket knife, and brought the head still dripping with blood up to the hut. If this is true, these guys are a disgrace to the climbing scene and to humanity. If Parks and Wildlife found out about this, this could have negative ramifcations for the future of climbing on the mountain. If you are one of the wombat ghouls and you are reading this, please respond and verify the truth and circumstances of this incident.
Gerry Narkowicz

Superior climbing porn from the makers of ClimbXmedia and BigUp: http://www.momentumvm.com/

Garry Phillips has done a few new topos of Neika, Sphinx Rock, and The Paradiso.
Check them out at his website : http://www.bigredclimbing.com

Gerry Narkowicz and Nick Hancock have been developing a signigicant new sport climbing area in the Cluan Tiers. It is located in the hills west of Westbury about 45 mins drive from Launceston, and just 10 minutes walk on a track.It has 10 quality routes so far, with several projects still on the go. Check out the online guide at the following address:

• http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=782

An extract from the guidebook:

Introduction

The Cluan Tiers are a range of hills near the town of Westbury in Northern Tasmania. On the western side facing the Liffey Valley, is a substantial dolerite escarpment about 2km long and up to 90m high, but only two of the faces have been deemed worthy of climbing. The cliff is unusual for dolerite as it is generally void of cracks, and forms overhanging blocky faces with big roofs. Consequently the crag has been developed as a sport climbing area. The nature of the rock lends itself to steep, difficult climbing, and the main wall in particular, is quite intimidating. The cliff faces south-west and does not see sunlight until well into the afternoon, making it an ideal summer crag. Climbers should come prepared for cold weather as it is an alpine area subject to the full force of westerly weather. The views to the western tiers are glorious, making it a spectacular location for climbing.

History

Climbers have probably been aware of these cliffs for years, being obvious from the road to Liffey Falls. Gerry Narkowicz scrub bashed up the hill from the western side in May 2006 and realised the potential of the cliff. He made the first climbing trip to the area with Nick Hancock on 10/6/06 and two routes were climbed and another three projects were bolted over three days.

Location

Access is remarkably easy, being just 45 minutes drive from Launceston and a 10 minute walk on a track to the top of the cliff. From Launceston travel to Westbury and continue another 9km on the old highway to Exton. Turn left at Exton onto C502, signposted Quamby Brook and Golden Valley. Continue straight ahead at the crossroads after 4km. About 3km later is a gravel road on the left signposted to the Cluan Tier. From here it is 16km on logging roads to the cliff. Follow the main Cluan Tier Road and after about 13km is a crossroads. Take the road on the right which goes steeply up a hill. At the top of the hill, keep following the main road and take left hand turns at the two intersections you come across. The road passes underneath a powerline and curves around to meet the powerline again about 1km further. Park here at the powerline easement marked by a cairn on the left. Follow the powerline easement up the hill for 10 minutes to the top of the cliff. After some easy bashing through a grove of ferns for about 100m, there is a good gravel track up the easement. At the powerpole closest to the cliff edge, turn left and follow a rough path for 50m to the descent gully marked by a cairn. A short descent gully leads to the first cliff while the main cliff is about 100m further around to the right.

The climbing festival at Easter has some huge comps running with some awesome prizes.  $5000 in prizes for photography.  $1000 in prizes for short stories (fiction and non-fiction), and $1000 worth of prizes for films.  We have had requests to extend our dates, so checkout the new deadlines below and go to http://www.climbingfestival.com.au/events.html to download an entry form and get involved. 
FILMS by February 11^th
STORIES by February 11^th
PHOTOS by February 6^th
 Thanks Adam Donoghue (Festival Organiser)

On a recent ascent of Fionn McCool at Fingal, my second had to leave behind a #8 Super Rock on a green sling. This piece has sentimental value, especially for the person who couldn't get it out at the time.  It's about half way along the rising traverse on the third pitch.
I am offering a very modest reward: $15 or a six pack of Boag's Premium.  It's your choice: you can either slake your thirst after doing this great route or partially refill your petrol tank.
Cheers,
Doug

hi just wanted to no if anyone has seen gear that was hanging on pleasent screams (orang pipes Tassie), about 15 draws have gone missing. they were on for a bit, but due to a injury i was not able to get my draws off.
there is a beer reward!!!!!
cheers jake bresnehan.

The Organ Pipes guide is coming along and we are looking for images of climbers on the mountain, particulary new images on the pipes. If you want to donate a photo/image contact dave dot humphries at dytech dot com dot au, Tony Mckenny or Al Adams.

HOT ROCK CLIMBING EXPEDITIONS

Take a big red specially converted climbing expedition vehicle with a 13 foot bouldering wall on the back.

Add 20-35 climbers from all over the world and head off around the globe developing new rock climbing areas and stopping at the best of the established ones. That's Hot Rock.

Other than existing guidebooks and our own bulging new routes book, we use climbing contacts and other local knowledge wherever we go to find and develop the very best crags.

Grade is less important than attitude. Are you up for adventurous, unguided climbing and exploring, across the remotest corners of the globe? On past trips we've put up new routes from Diff to E6 (5.2 - 5.13), and (according to local ethics) bolted from f5a to f8a. Routes range from single pitch to 1800m big walls. We've found lost prison mountains and discovered the DWS potential of lakes and cliffs around the globe. And because you can't always get Hot Rock - there's alpine kit on board for those new routes or big ticks above the snowline too.

You can join the truck from just £370 (about AU$930) and for periods of time ranging from 3 weeks to 2 years.

Take a tour of http://www.climbhotrock.com to read accounts and see photos from climbing areas in over 50 countries.

And you can have a look at our upcoming expeditions too...

Africa '07: Nairobi to Cape Town

Trans Africa 07-08: Cape Town to Istanbul

The Silk Route 08-09: Istanbul to Singapore

Phone me on +44 (0)7812 086 099 for a dossier of what to expect on the forthcoming trips or just go to http://www.climbhotrock.com for all the info.

cheers!
Dunc

Here are some random recent photos for your enjoyment:

Al Williams trying a project (27ish), Teardrop Gully, Organ Pipes	Al Williams trying a project (27ish), Teardrop Gully, Organ Pipes	Eloise Bradley on If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie	Eloise Bradley on If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie
Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie	Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie	Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie	Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie
Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie	The Crystal, V5, Elderslie	The Organ Pipes from the air	Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie
Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie	Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie	The Organ Pipes from the air	Candlestick and Totem Pole from the air
Candlestick and Totem Pole from the air	Candlestick and Totem Pole from the air	The Organ Pipes from the air

Apologies for the site being down for the last couple of weeks, the hosting provider tripped over a power cord or something (again).

There was a bit of activity in the bouldering scene during spring. Dave Humpries and Jon Nermut found a good new area out at Elderslie. Heathy Gully has more than a dozen free standing boulders, on OK sandstone, with a 10 minute walk from the car. The best thing about it is that it's on Crown land, unlike the existing Elderslie areas which are private, and have big access issues. There have been 25 problems done so far, the best being If Six Were Nine (V6) by Aubrey Carter, which had several quick repeats and confirmation of its quality. There is potential for about 30 more problems, but they will have to wait until it cools down a bit, as it is a quite warm area.

Dave Humphries and Jon Nermut have also been taking advantage of the very dry conditions on Mt Wellington with new problems at the Springs, Sphinx Rock, and the Panorama Track.

At Bicheno Glen Henderson and Aubrey have been working on a new area with some impressive lines. Glen has done a V9 roof problem, but the best line, an impressive prow, has yet to be completed. Aubrey and Glen also put up a new problem at Oatlands, up the arete above Body and Mind, at V8.

In sport climbing world, Jake Bresenhan completed a project at the Star Factory to produce Wizard of Oz, Tasmania's equal hardest route at grade 32. Garry Phillps also repeated The Tooth Fairy - the other 32 at the Star Factory.
Simon Young also climbed several new routes at the Star Factory in the second half of the year, including Red Hill Town (26), Cheese Supreme (25) and The Gonzo (22). He also added 2 routes on Tetragrammaton Buttress - Return to Cookie Mountain (23) and Wild Shindigs (20).

Rumour has it that Jake and Gary Phillips are working on some new routes at Lake Huntley - no doubt they will be impressive.

After stuffing about for ages, I have published the Tasmanian Bouldering Guide again. It got to the point where I was never going to get around to printing it myself again, so I've gone down the publish-on-demand route.

You can buy the guide at http://www.lulu.com/content/484088 for $USD11.00 , plus postage. All profits go to the maintenance of this site.

For anybody contemplating publishing small scale guidebooks, lulu.com is definitely worth a look. You just upload a pdf and the front and back cover, set your price, and they do the rest. Copies are printed only when orders come in, and they come out quite good. There is no setup cost, or any other fees. The unit price ends up being a bit more expensive, but there is much less overhead in getting something out there than conventional publishing.

Hi Guys,

Just wondering if anyone has infor like grades etc on the routes put up at the Nut in stanley?

Maybe buying property there and wanted to know what the climbing was like

rgs

chris

What sort of condition is your harness in?  A friend of mine in Canada forwarded me a news article of the tragic death of Todd Skinner, who has died due to the belay loop on his harness failing while abseiling from Leaning Tower in Yosemite.

Here's the article: Todd Skinner dies due to harness failure

It's scary to think that

• such an experienced climber could go this way
• the strain on a harness is so much less when abseiling than from taking a winger

Please replace your harness if it shows signs of wear or, at the very least, replace your belay/abseil loop.

Regards,

Doug