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At 5.30am on Sunday the 30th of November a ragged bag of misfits; Jake "the snake" Bresnehan, Kim "office boy" Robinson, Doug "the bold and the beautiful" McConnell and Deano "rodriguez" Rollins, left Hobart for a day trip to Cape Raoul.

All of us had done Pole Dancer before, so the plan for the day was just to try and head out to the end of the Cape and have a little bo-peak at some rocks, and then maybe climb some of them. We were particularly interested in checking out the pillar at the end of the cape, and seeing if there was a route to do up there.

A bit of background info:

In the CCT Circulars there are a lot of old trip reports to Cape Raoul. On one such trip, the team went out along the ridge, right out to the base of the Last Pillar (it is about 15m high and starts from a wide ledge about 50m up). They realised that to get to the top, they would have to drill a bolt ladder (like they had previously done for one of the other pillars), and so did not do it. They thought that they weren't good enough to do it without bolts - and so they walked away.

So i suppose that they had hoped that any future parties would give the same consideration to that particular piece of rock (no bolt ladder just for the sake of aiding to the top). And ever since reading that, i too had always hoped that if someone went out to try it, that they too didn't put any bolts in it (not that there's anything wrong with bolts in general, especially at Cape Raoul) - just to respect the decision and efforts of the previous party.

That pillar has been just sitting there for sooooooo long.
Obviously, the best way to make sure no one goes out there and bolt it is to go out there and do it without bolts first!

The perfect day:

We made it to the far side of the Wedding Cake without any issues and were then about to head along and back up to the ridge to continue the involved scramble out to the end. But a spur of the moment decision saw us rapping off the western side of the ridge to the shore platform below. Within 10 minutes we were all standing in the sun at the base of the cliffs at the very end of the cape on an unusually calm day. After saying hi to a couple of seals we turned our attention to climbing rocks.

We ended up climbing from seal level at the end of the cape to the very top of the very last pillar - three pitches (18, 22, 24) and zero bolts. A bit of everything... squeeze chimneying, hand jamming, finger locking, and a bit of face and arête climbing to top it all off. There is even a cool gap to jump across on the scramble out as well.

Doug took the honours (first class!) up the final pillar - a mighty fine lead. In the end, all four of us were up there on top at the same time, each of us in shock at what had just happened...

Another line bites the dust!

I have somehow "inherited" a box load of old Argus newsletters from the Victorian Climbing Club. They date back to the early '70s, and belonged to the defunct CCT. Any one want them?
I also have the scrap book and various files of minutes from the CCT which I am trying to get the State Archives to accept unless anyone has a better idea.... the old Krank mags (CCT newsletters 1989 - 1996) are going to the State Library to fill gaps in their collection.

hey there guys! as some of you already know myself and Garry are currently cruising round NZ trying to climb some mountains. im making an effort to keep my blog updated after each small mission so if you keen to check out what we're up to head over to www.thealpinist.blogspot.com theres some pics and also some small video clips!

hope everybody and everything in tas is going well! we'll be back to check up on u guys early december for some beers and a yarn* or two!

take care

simon young

*yarns may not neccessarily contain truthful elements (the fish was thhiiiiissss big!!)

Heading into Federation Peak at the end of the month to attempt Blade Ridge / NW Face Direct, and was wondering if anyone had done the routes? Specifically, wondering what sort of rack is necessary? Do you need big gear for the roof crack on NW Face Direct? Also, what's the approach down the gully to the base of Blade Ridge like? Is it all scrambling, or are abseils required?

cheers
Cam

The new Ben Lomond guide is now available. email gerry.narkowicz@bigpond.com to order your copy. $44.95 includes postage. Alternately, pick one up for $40 at the launch on Friday night in Lonny, or Sat Nov 8th 7.30pm at the Climbing Edge

An open question to the world,

Sally J are you ever going to step out from behind your non-de-plume and into the light of day?

Some folk think they know who you are, but don't want to spoil the give the game away. Call it lost opportunities if you like...

Personally I admire your desire for anonymity. Besides there's more fun to be had playing detective?

So who is the real Sally? Are you lad or lady? A crusty old traddie perhaps or a latter-day sporthead? Where do you belong? Past-tense has my money on it.

Guess there's more to come regarding this elusive lady. Fellow climbers, put your guessing hats on and enter the fray.

Adios

Al

Bolting Wars: Episode 316!

Well folks, it's that time of the year again. So send the wife to the kitchen, put the kids to bed, feed the dogs, grab a longneck and settle in for episode 316 to unfold...

Once upon a time, someone created the rotary hammer drill, which changed things for good.

This time the story is in the south of the equator at a GPS coordinate of 42°53′57″S 147°13′57″E Not at our beloved Ben Lomond area.

So. Word on the street some people are a bit unhappy with some of the bolts I have been injecting into the organ pipes. Which is a fair call. Well sort of, depends on which book you play the rules by. I have been approached by a fellow rock climber, that maybe I should think about it a bit more and consider others. I have been thinking of what he had to say, and that's why I am writing episode 316! If you have a problem, please say, because I do really respect your opinion, I do not want to ruin the wonderful place we have. I think we (southerners) can communicate as normal people to make the organ pipes live on.

Bolting is not easy, and I if could find an amazing line on trad gear I would be all over it.

I have decided to paint my bolts on the battlements pillar, and on the new one, I have bolted next to double central column. And, no I will not be keeping the theme of painting big blue dots next to them like the rap chains at the top of exit entry, I was thinking of a darker colour that will blend into the rock.

The next thing I am throwing out there is, what do people think about the slack lining bolts???

I have injected 3 bolts opposite Albert's tomb, to create one of the coolest most extreme things the mountain has seen since Henry Barbers on sight soloed double central column.

After rope soloing the sentiel ridge on the weekend, I also found that they were close/on route. This was not my intention. However, yep. They are. My fault. One thing is that they are in stupidest place for the climb, and really no way in all would they make it safer, actually more annoying for people to belay there. Oh well have a think about it.

I do not want to destroy the history or the future up. Therefore, I would like to hear what young and old have to say.....

So that's about it for episode 316, sorry for ending it so soon, I know you were just getting into it. But I am sure, there will be more to come in the wonderful island that we have.

Take care a safe climbing.
"Many people will probably be content with climbing the established classics. For others the history is far from ended".

Peace Jake

From Phil Robinson:

I left my helmet at the top of Split Column the other w/e and it is not there now.
Any chance of putting a notice on thesarvo please?
e.g.

If anyone has seen a white helmet at the top of Split Column please contact Phil (or Kim) Robinson.
Left there Sunday 5th October.

Cheers
Phil

Of course if the wind blew it over the cliff it won't be much use!

6226 2483(w)
6223 6217(h)
0437 450 440(m)

When I was out at Cape Huoy on Friday walking with students, we noticed a Tyrolean set up on the Totem Pole. Does anyone know how long it has been there and why it's still there?

hi folks

just wondering if anyone knows of climbing on Mt Oakleigh beyond the little notes in thesarvo guides? The skyline traverse looks fantastic and we are hoping to get there this summer. There is a Rock article by Lyle Closs that suggests it might have been done...???

John

The new Ben Lomond guidebook will be launched on Friday November 7th in Launceston and Saturday November 8th in Hobart. Everyone is welcome. Details for each event are as follows.
LAUNCESTON LAUNCH: Friday Nov 7th, 7.30pm at Pavilion restaurant, Yorktown Square. Cost $20.00 - includes light meal and drinks. Guest speakers- John Smart, Ben Maddison, Bruce Cameron.
HOBART LAUNCH: Saturday Nov 8th, 7.30pm at Climbing Edge Gym in Bathurst St. Cost: $5.00. Slideshow by Bob McMahon and guest speaker John Smart from NSW. Purchase the new guidebook for special launch price of $40.00.
For a sneak peak at the guidebook cover (draft copy - disregard white dotted lines as they indicate position of the spine of the book)see http://www.gerrynarkowicz.wordpress.com and click on link to guidebook cover.

Spring Cleaning time in the gear cupboard, I have the following cams for sale, call us if you're interested in checking them out. Cheers Adam ph 0435024192

Black Diamond Camalot (older style double stem) green 0.75 size $40-

Alien (orange, approx #1.5 friend) $60
Alien (red, approx#1 friend) $55
Alien (yellow, approx #0.5 friend) $55
Alien (green, approx #0 friend) $55

HB (same sizing as friends)Quadcam (double stem) # 1 $40- Single stem #3 $45-

Wild Country
Technical Friend #2.5 $55-
Technical Friend #2 $55-
Technical Friend #1.5 $45-
Technical Friend #1 $45-

The Tasmanian University Climbing Club is hosting a bouldering comp.

The comp will be run on the 2nd of October (Next Thursday) at 6pm. It will be down at the Uni Wall in the Sports and Rec Center (Google Maps link is posted below - i hope)

It's a pretty informal comp, but with some cool prizes for winning, and lucky door prizes for just showing up and being... well lucky..

But most of all theres going to be HEAPS of cool problems to crank out on!

LOCATION: Uni Wall, Sports and Rec @ UTAS
TIME: 6pm 2nd Oct 08
PRICE: $10 for members AND non-members

google maps link http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=108082847874416381159.000457b2416edc98951fe&ll=-42.897378,147.330179&spn=0.017354,0.029826&z=15

The new landowners of the property near Castille Crag in the North Esk request a phone call several days prior to visits by climbers. I met them today and they were easy going and happy to let climbers access the crag via their property, as long as they phone beforehand. The cliff is rather vegetated and lichenous these days, but after cleaning and climbing a few of the classics today, the quality of the climbs is well worth a visit. Phone JOhn Adams on 0409 393748 or
0407 393448 to arrange access.
Gerry Narkowicz

Some photographs to help jog the memories of older climbers may be found here.