Blog

Hi-

Was trying to arrange a day at Proctor's Quarry, but was asked for a copy of the UTAS climbing club's Indemnity Insurance. Here's the request form Sally of Utas Asset Management:

"It would be necessary for you to provide proof your membership to this club (UTAS climbing Club) and a copy of their indemnity insurance - you will understand that the University cannot provide anyone access to this site without appropriate insurance."

I looked for the Utas website for the climbing club, but couldn't find it. Plus I'll be hard pressed to find the membership card I got in return for the $20 at the Uni gym long ago.

Any ideas, or perhaps an easier method for a morning at the Quarry for some cragging? Paul Pritchard and I would like to scramble up some of the easier routes there.

Canadian girl looking to do some sport climbing in the Hobart area, in town until the 17th of January.

Probably 17-20 grades depending on the terrain here.

I don't have a rope. Happy to pitch in for petrol etc.

Please call Erin at 04 1481 4719

Cheers!
E

Hi all, I'm looking for a place in Launceston to stash some gear. The dates will be from about the 20th of Jan till about the 30th of Jan. I'd be very apreciative of a place to crash on the 29th for Brother Colin and I as well.

I'll be in Tas for pretty much the whole month of January so if you see me and Colin along with a bunch of other climbers from Queensland then say hi. We start off in Launceston, then to Ben Lomond to put up another blue taccked sport route ) then down to Coles Bay and then to the Tasman Peninsular, Mt. Wellington and back to Launceston where we will drop off most of the crowd. Prolly go back to Mt. Wellington then over to head down to Cape Rouel. Prolly go back up to Coles Bay too.

It's gunna be an awesome trip.

This is the annual Pinnacle Sports trip by the way. The first part of the trip is the official section of the trip, then it is just for fun for the last half.

Phil...

Can anyone tell me how crowded the camping is at Whitewater wall at the moment? Are we talking overlapping guy ropes or is there enough room for some spur of the moment blow-ins?

(apologies for the duplication, for those who also read chockstone)

Hi all

I'll be in Hobart for these 2 days and am keen to join other climbers to climb at Mt Wellington or any other areas around. Can lead trad but am travelling light with just basic gear. Can second up to 20 and love both crack and face. Visiting from Brisvegas.

you can catch me on 0409 722 160

Cheers
Lara Masselos

I would like to contribute to access debates concerning rap stations on Ben Lomond in a constructive manner and highlight other responsibilities we climbers should take into consideration. I think it was Dirty Harry that said, "Opinions are like arxholes, everyone has one." I'm not here to beat my chest or show anyone disrespect. I want to utilize this great resource to highlight new(?)debate.

There are aspects of our chosen sport/pastime/lifestyle which can have implications upon the greater community. Every time we engage in risky behaviour around cliffs (especially remote areas) and things go wrong, emergency services are required. These services are required by the broader community for life-threatening emergencies also and by people who haven't put themselves at risk by choice. I'm not saying that climbing is unduly risky, but we have a responsibility to minimise risk, for the sake of the greater community. I say this after witnessing 3 ambos being occupied for several hours to sort out a solo climber who had fallen in an area difficult to access recently.

This ties into the great Ben debate in respect to fast retreat, due to uncontrolled factors, not necessarily climber inexperience or lack of ability. We know how rapidly weather can change here, most guides to most crags warn of the Tasmanian weather. The higher the crag, the more severe the weather, the more risk to the party. Rap chains are obviously rap chains, a bolted climb is a bolted climb. A safe, quick descent minimises risk and environmental damage. GPS is a marvellous tool, as is the internet and online guides which utilize these technologies (love your work). A bolted-climb-free zone is reiterated in every bit of climbing literature relating to Ben Lomond! Visiting climbers would surely be aware of these ethics for the area. Additional signage by National Parks could put it beyond doubt.

As climbers we have responsibility to fellow climbers (past, present and future), the amazing environments we play in and the greater community. Egos within the climbing fraternity must remember that groups are frequently judged by the actions of individuals. Some people view bolting as blatant disregard for a pristine natural environment, others think we are crazy to be on mountains/cliffs in the first place. Being "hard" can be seen as irresponsible in the bigger picture. How we conduct ourselves should reflect the commitment and passion we share in our sport and environment. With the proliferation of printed and online guides, additional climbing traffic is inevitable. The fact that Ben Lomond is a day trip destination can only contribute to this also. The impact of this traffic requires cohesive debate and management from all areas.

I hope my rant acheives a small part to further constructive debate and hasn't bored anyone into a coma. Help could be further away than you hope!

Heading down to Tasmania for 2 weeks from the 30 dec to 11 jan to visit family and am keen to do a bit of climbing. I am climbing about a 20. Dont have much experience leading trad but will happily toprope, clip bolts, second or to be your belay slave, just want to get out a bit

So if you are looking for a partner or just someone to belay you on that mega hard route let me know.

We are a climbing family from France; we are planning to stay in the Freycinet area during Christmas / New Year. Is there any moderate sport climbing (max French 6b, sorry not familiar with Aussie grading system yet) crag there? (Not to keen on trad climbing with the kids). Any recomendation for a guide to show us around?

Lately printing the guides at lulu.com hasn't been so attractive, due to the price being in US dollars, and them putting up postage heaps.

So we found a new printer in South Australia: Digital Print Australia. Quality is about the same, but because they are local it's in Australian dollars and postage is cheaper ($4-$10 - standard Aus Post rates).

We currently have in order for 160 guides for the local shops that should arrive in the new year. But they also have an online store where you can buy direct. Once postage is factored in, it will probably be about the same as retail.

Note for colour versions and PDF downloads you still need to use http://stores.lulu.com/thesarvo

Here's the links to the various books:

For those with a penchant for history, Deano has put up his index to the CCT circulars in the library here: CCT Circulars Reference (its in the CCT space, you need to be logged in).
Has some interesting stuff in it.

We´re a Norwegian couple who started climbing only half a year ago and haven´t gotten into trad climbing
yet. We will be exploring the Grampians and Blue Mountains later, but first we´re going to Tasmania in
our van and definitely want to do some sports climbing there. Any suggestions on where to go to find lots
of low grade sports climbing in Tasmania? And also in all of Australia?

Cheers
Gitte and Ben

Some inspirational news from Sam in font;

"Trip report. Weather is rubbish, food is rubbish, coffee is rubbish and our dollar is rubbish, climbing is awesome. The Island is done"

For the uninitiated the Island is V15 and has only seen two ascents!

He's looking forward to the Jackmans bakery and a boulder at Hansom's!

All tracks to the various crags at Hillwood have now been cut. Unfortunately this is a yearly task with the jungles of stinging nettles and thistles that overgrow the tracks.

Just wanted to no if anyone has a satellite phone that they would be keen to hire to me for about 2 months??
or have hired them before and can recommend anybody?

Any of you boulderers planning a North American road trip? I have a bouldering guide to Squamish that is surplus to my needs. Let me know if you want it ...