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Hey all,

it's more like forgotten shoes, rather than lost. Went up to Paradiso yesterday and left some yellow mammut 'goblin' shoes on top of shock wave. If anyone is headed out that way we could a trade for beer, or wine, hugs or even a rather quirky poem. They answer to names "edgy and dodge foot" respectively (left to right). There is also a 4 years curse on anyone who just booties them, the effects of the curse are way to hideous to post on such a nice site. If anyone succeeds in finding my beloveds please call me on 0425 743 797 or sms 'you owe me beers' to the same number

cheers

Sam 'distressed and bare footed'

Hi just moved up to the north-west coast and need a climbing partner if anyone is about?

Cheers

Belinda

Hi all-

If you have any cams with wires frayed or broken, I can fix most types of cams.  I brought my Nicopress swager stuff (from my old A5 days) back from the US this time.  I might need to charge a few bucks for materials for each fix.  I live out in Cremorne.  Send me an email at deuce4@bigwalls.net

I'm looking to replace the old slings on all my cams--they're probably 20 years old.  Anybody got a industrial bartacker and a good selection of new webbing of various colors available?

cheers

On May 31st Jake said the Ben Lomond update had incorrect topos and descriptions. In 3 months since then he has not provided me with corrections. I assume he's talking about the couple of routes he put up on the Laendler face. There's a reason why we didn't do those lines back in the 80's. We only bothered to do the best looking lines. We must have walked past the Laendler face hundreds of times and dismissed Jake's lines; discontinuous wide cracks up a broken looking face. If you want to climb shitty wide cracks, get the correct descriptions off thesarvo.com

Climbing shoes found at waterworks quarry (Hobart) at 4 pm 14/08/2010.

I'm trying to get them back to their rightful owner, give me a call on0432969325and provide a description of the shoes.

Then we can arrange a pickup, I live in South Hobart.

Off to Italy end of next week. Have Classic Climbs in Dolomites book (aka Classic Crowded Climbs book). Wonder if anyone has other guides to the area we could borrow or can recommend any particular sports/trad  (not too hard!!)  climbs. Cheers

Tony

PS Would look after guides with great care of course.

Hi Jake, still waiting on your corrections for the Ben Lomond guide update. I'd also like to know why you thought it was a rushed job. You also implied some of our previous guides were also rushed, which is perplexing considering it took 2 years solid work for the Ben Lomond guide. cheers, Gerry

A good news round up over on Whipper by Jake:

http://whipper.com.au/2010/08/pic-of-the-week-020810/

And now for a bit of news from the Apple Isle:
Well, some might think that winter is Tasmania is a right off. Think again. Lately Tasmania has been experiencing some crazy good weather and with a small psyched crew things have been going down. So far this winter, Simon Young stopped talking the talk and managed to send his 2nd 28, Power of the Peculator (his first was the trad rotue Animal Instincts Direct). Will Bartlett, in between getting drunk off 1 sip of beer and updating his status on Facebook, pulled the top rope down and sent Ferret on a Leash (27). Alex Lewis, back from his first trip to Yosemite with ascents of the Nose and Lurking Fear also sent Ferret on a Leash (27) but was thirsty for more. He cleaned up a super trad line at the Star Factory, tried by many, but never put to rest. It’s a pity he gave such a strong performance on a strong line and gave it such a pussy name: Total Eclipse of the Heart (28). Jonathan ‘JC’ Clearwater made a quick visit for a job interview from New Zealand and managed to sneak a quick ascent of Power of the Peculator (28) onto his CV.
Tassie has also received a new import all the way from America, Mark Polinski. Unfortunately Mark is based in Launceston doing a PhD in aquatic things. From the look at Mark’s 8a.nu score card he is no stranger to pulling down hard, with numerous 8c routes under his belt. He was last seen working right to left at the Star Factory. So far he has already managed to send Street Fighter (28), Soft Option (28), Street Fighter 2 (29) in a couple of weekends. And at his local crag Hillwood he has already dispatched the hardest climb, The Living End (28) and pulled a few holds off around the place. It will be interesting to see if he busts a drill out and develops some more hard routes.
Jake Bresnehan managed to escape from the terminal inside his computer to repeat some more Star Factory classics. Back Yard Surgery (29) and Simply The Best (28). Closer to Hobart, Callum Hylander decided to put on a rope to get fit for a up coming competition and in the process dispatched Blade Runner 28, at Neika.
On the bouldering front, James Scarbrough continues to dig out new boulders after new boulders, in between giving detentions to his students. His best addition of late was Eco-Terrorist Assis V11 at Handsome’s Crag near Hobart. Upon hearing of the quality of some of blocs up at Handsome’s, Callum Hylander was seen fleeing the grandmas on the croquet pitch and made quick repeats of Nilaavu V12 and Uprising V11. Jake Bresnehan and Sam Edwards managed to send one of Hobart’s new classic boulders, The Book Thief V10. Sam also made a quick trip to the Grampians to try his next amazing project, but quickly jumped on a plane home and hopped straight back on the Rocket Wall after realising that he has a bit of training to do if he wants to actually pull some moves instead of just brushing holds.
In other news Doug McConnell, probably the 2nd weakest guy alive (after Deano) managed to repeat the classic of classics: Punks in the Gym (32) at Arapiles. This was an awesome effort for Doug who has had a pretty bloody good year out on the rock. Go Doug! After the ascent, Doug was seen selling all his climbing gear in the pines campground (“I can retire happily now”) and walking to Natimuk with a carton of beer on his shoulder… He obviously got so drunk that night that the next morning he forgot he had quit climbing, and promptly waltzed up Ethipoia (30) with a ‘bit’ of a hangover.
Not a bad effort at all.

Just like to inform you all that i did the climbing community a favor during the last few days.
I managed to install rap anchors on the Ben Lomond massif in 3 locations to "in my humble and unbiased opinion provide a better experience" I have painted them also so might be hard to find at first.
The rap stations are Fixe Rap Anchor's and have all been classified as "IMMORTAL" These anchor's "will endure for as long as the sport of climbing lasts."
Fixe anchor on face of robins buttress

57 holds plus 2.1m wooden panels from woody for sale. Best offer. Ph 0428505259

I'm after a pair of chains for my 4WD, preferably something that is fairly heavy duty and won't disintegrate when they are needed.

Tyre size is 265/70/R16

If you've got a pair stashed away and want to get rid of them, let me know. emjones at internode dot on dot net

Cheers

EJ

1 pair of yellow Rock Pillar climbing shoes size US 9 found hanging on a tree at Hillwood.  If they are yours they are now at MD's Launceston awaiting collection, ph 63340988.  If not collected they will be available for use on the bouldering wall for passing climbers!!!

I pulled a cam out of Nefertiti on Mt Wellington. Is it yours? Contact me on 0403 217754 if you want it back!

It looks a little twisted and ugly now, but not too bad - it works anyway! Yeah if it looked really good... I probably wouldn't have posted this message!! :)

Given so much exploring and rediscovering of cliffs goes on in tassie, i thought I might start posting some of the cliffs I've checked out over time - might prevent some effort rediscovering them. I'd encourage other people to do the same - then I wont have to rediscover your choss pile.

Today I went out and checked out some cliffs at the end of Glen Dhu Rd. To get there drive towards New Norfolk, and turn left at Sorell Creek. Take a right on Glen Dhu Rd and follow it along way up the valley. Just before you come to a gate with a private property sign a road heads down right to the creek - park here. If you come to a shipping container youve gone too far. From the road you can see the cliffs up the hill to the right. There are 2 more substantial cliff lines further up the valley (see pics). The cliffs are marked on the 1:25k map with the imagantive name "Yellow Cliffs". The cliff is on public land but there is private land around in the valley.

Link to theList map:
http://www.thelist.tas.gov.au/listmap/listmap.jsp?llx=507375.79129570146&lly=5255517.566708777&urx=510988.36091397353&ury=5256985.0664639585&layers=17&disabledlayers=

The track on this google map shows the 4wd tracks from the car to where you head up the hill:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=http:%2F%2Fwww.thesarvo.com%2Fconfluence%2Fdownload%2Fattachments%2F170917890%2FTrack%2B009.kmz&sll=-42.84759,147.10968&sspn=0.028129,0.077162&ie=UTF8&t=h&z=15

From the park follow the road down to the creek, and then up the right hand side of the creek for about 10 minutes. This leads to under the cliffs. Then its a steep strenous walk up the hill to the cliffs - about 40 mins total to reach the base of the cliff. The bush is generally open but its a big walk up. We walked up the ridge leading to the big roof - but you are better off going along further and walking up the second ridge to the left of the big gully that comes down from the middle of the cliff - as the good rock is on the LH side.

The cliff is 30-40m high sandstone and a typical mixture of total choss and some good bits. In all its similar to Handsomes and Nieka, but harder access than either. Not too much lichen but quite dirty in places. There would definitely be some good sport routes here but I'm guessing the walk is a bit too much effort. You would need to be motivated.
If access from the top was somehow possible (Ringwood Fire Trail??) then maybe, but I don't reckon I will go back. There is probably a bit more rock to explore in the general area.

Photos below. To see the high res versions go to http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/pages/viewpageattachments.action?pageId=170917890

A good buttress of quite good looking rock	Middle of the cliff	Middle of the cliff	Roof sorta solid
Classic looking off width thru the roof	Nice wall	More big rooves and choss	Black rock is solid but a bit dirty
Big roof on RH end	More cliffs further up the valley	The big roof - chossy	The cliffline
Nice sized boulder on good rock - pity its blank	More cliffs further up the valley	Better rock

I'm pleased to announce that the thesarvo iPhone app is now in the app store.

Version 1.0 gives offline access in a mobile optimised interface to all of the Tasmanian route and boulder guides on thesarvo - over 3000 routes and 1500 problems.

It's priced at a reasonable $3.99 - proceeds go to the running of this site.

Installing it

To install it search for "thesarvo" on the iPhone app store, or go here:
http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/thesarvo/id379419619?mt=8

You need to be on Wi-Fi to install it as the app is about 60mb with all the topos included.

It should also work on an iPod Touch (although I havent tested it).

Bugs and Feature Requests

Version 1.0 is pretty basic, and there are a lot more features that could be added over time - I'm interested to hear what you think would be useful in the next version. Probably the biggest ones on my list are:

• GPS/maps integration
• Favourites and comments
• Automatic updates - at the moment updates will be through the app store
• Remember which climb you are looking at when the app is closed

Also please post any bugs or issues you find here and I will try and fix them in the next version.

Screenshots

iPhone app screenshot 1	iPhone app screenshot 2	iPhone app screenshot 3	iPhone app screenshot 4