I went up to Northern Buttress last Saturday with Deano "The Carrot Eradicator" and together we removed all the old gear and re-equipped it with U's.  Now much improved. 

As an aside, our discussions that day included the vexed topic of "stars" are the perrenial question: "Are they being doled out too freely"?  By Deano's view everyone's gone soft and they should be assigned as parsimoniously as Michelin stars.  I didn't take the conversation as far as "How many do you thing Boys Games in now worth"? as that may have put him in an embarassing situation (especially since some versions of Craglets sprayed stars around like they were going out of fashion!). I am content to say that whetever number the old route was given, they are now more justified. 

Dean has been doing some great work with the Rob De Ceasare carrot puller.  Check out Upper Teardrop Gully. 

Went and did "Left Out" on " Step Tier" last night. Whats with the description? Doesn't say anything about climbing the first pitch of Moonraker?

Can I suggest a few changes? Maybe could be edited to say "A gob smacking sustained pitch. Climbs the face L of 2nd pitch of Moonraker

and in the Moonraker description the pitches should read as 1a. 30m & 1b. 30m (not 2b. 30m) also Nick's Moonraker picture in the guide says 15 instead of 16?

Jed

Last summer Claire and I established some fun problems up at Boat Harbour. The problems were up to about V1 - V6 with potential for a few harder ones, take my grade estimates with a grain of salt, it's a while since I did the problems and I didn't write anything down. . There is potential for about 10-15 problems.

The problems can be found by walking a hundred metres or so around the coastline to the north of the beach.

Here are a couple I discovered last summer. Very worthwhile for anyone living up that way.

Preston Falls

Overhanging basalt.

http://www.world-of-waterfalls.com/australia-preston-falls.html

Taylors Flats

Limestone cliffs up to 25m high, vertical to gently overhanging with some tuffas! Has some great potential but is on private land so the first people to climb here will need to discuss with the land owners.

http://www.mountainvalley.com.au/contact.html

Preston Falls and Taylors Flats Cliffs

Given so much exploring and rediscovering of cliffs goes on in tassie, i thought I might start posting some of the cliffs I've checked out over time - might prevent some effort rediscovering them. I'd encourage other people to do the same - then I wont have to rediscover your choss pile.

Mills Track crag is another of those crags I've known about for ages but never got round to climbing on that I went and had another look at on the weekend. Its a small (8m high) sandstone crag on Mt Wellington of the same variety as Sphinx and Neika. Its very limited - 3 or 4 possible routes, but I'm surprised no one has ever climbed on it given its ease of access. It has a couple of little overhangs and faces that with a little cleaning would make ok routes.

To get there walk about 12 mins along Mills Track from the Springs to where the view opens out again above a scree slope and you can see some sandstone crags in the distance. walk another 2 or 3 mins until you notice a faint track heading down the hill on the left (there may be a small cairn). Only 15m from the main track this leads to the top of the crag. Go down right to get to the bottom.

There is other sandstone in the general area - Dave H has checked most of it out and hasnt found anything decent.

Position is 519328mE, 5247500mN, 55G

Map link: http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=115102596344199739296.00000111c43697ba392d0&ll=-42.924982,147.236908&spn=0.001612,0.003484&t=h&z=19&iwloc=000492520f429a92ef1c1

Some crap phone photos:

Hi all,

Thinking of heading to southern spain in Feb, leaning towards el chorro, but don't know too much about the area. Wondering if anyone has been and has some info they could impart?

Hoping to find somewhere to stay thats walking distance to a bunch of sport climbing. If anyone has a guidebook to andalucia or el chorro that i could borrow to have a look at that'd be great.

Cheers,

Erin

Hi All

Newby from Queensland. Havent climbed for a couple of years but when I did I was pretty into it with a passion, especially bigger routes in Blue Mountains and Glasshouse. Been in tas for 9 weeks now and moved here to live. Getting into climbing again. Anyone up Northern end of Tas need a partner who knows their stuff or want an extra tag along? Im leading baby climbs again, but happy to follow up the hard ones. Multipitch keen. Anyone wanting to hook up, Id been stoked

River

Garry Phillips has a brand new shopping site for his climbing holds - http://www.bigredclimbing.com

One cam is brand new: DMM 3CU green 1.75 (25-41mm)

The other cam is not new (see earlier post relating to Nefertiti! It works well, however may benefit from being re-slinged): DMM 4CU gold 1 (19-29mm)

So buy the nice new one for $50 and I'll throw in the old one :)

Contact Ben on 0403 217754 or benwiessner@gmail.com

Whiskey Jim Hill is a sandstone crag above the Liffey Valley up to 50m high and with some sections of good quality rock. It features the steepest crack climb in Tasmania, the incredible Whiskey Jim Crack (25) which climbs a splitter crack through a 9m stepped roof on excellent rock. Potential is limited though there is alot of rock, many of the faces are blank and featureless or just choss. Access is very easy; a 45 minute drive from Launceston and a 15 minute flat walk on a track, though very complicated to explain. People wanting to visit this cliff should ring Gerry Narkowicz (0428 505259) for a guided tour, otherwise you are likely to get lost. It is quite close to the Cluan Tiers, so a visit to both cliffs would be possible on the same day. So far 2 routes have been done:

The Wailing Wall 15m 27.
The bolted face climb at the far LHS of the cliff. FA: Nick Hancock 2008

Whiskey Jim Crack 20m 25
Starts up an overhanging fist crack through a small roof for the first 10m. The crack then becomes splitter hand size but goes virtually 6m horizontal out to the lip. A hanging slab just before the lip gives some respite before tackling the crux, which is turning the lip and gaining the flared finger crack for the last 5m up the headwall. It opens up again to hands before the final offwidth slot. The lip is 15m off the ground, and a rope will hang 9m out from the base of the route. A unique crack climb in Tasmania. Gear: Wild Country Cams
3.5, 3, 4, 3, 2.5. Camalots 0.5, 1, 2, 3. FA: Gerry Narkowicz 26/9/10

November 17th 7:30pm
Stanley Burbury Lecture Theatre 1
$15 Pre Sale $18 at the door.
Tickets available from Jolly Swagman 107 Elizabeth St from October 1st

Will have some Tassie stuff from when the North Face team where down here earlier in the year including Cape Pillar and the Totem Pole
This is the whole lineup

First Round First Minute
Since Chris Sharma moved to the sport climbing mecca of Catalunya, Spain, he's opened dozens of routes that are redefining high-end climbing. First Round First Minute gives an update on Sharma's latest 5.15 first ascents, and tells the story of his epic battle with his latest ongoing project.

The Hardest Moves
Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson compete to climb the hardest boulders ever scaled. An inside look at what it takes to push the difficulty envelope of this intense sport.

Origins: The Hulk
Peter Croft and Lisa Rands attempt a wild free ascent on the Incredible Hulk Wall in the Sierras -- arguably America's best (and least filmed) alpine rock wall. Croft, the most legendary of California's crack masters mentors the renowned boulderer Rands as she explores into alpine traditional climbing terrain.

Down and Out, and Under
A once-in-a-lifetime adventure expedition for first ascents in Australia and on the wild sea cliffs of outer Tasmania.

Fly or Die
Dean Potter continues his extreme vertical exploration, opening new freeBASE climbs, along with highline and wingsuit jumps in some of the most mind-blowing vertical footage ever captured.

The Swiss Machine
Ueli Steck may be the greatest speed alpinist the world has ever seen. In this film he tells the stories of his record-breaking ascents in the Alps, accompanied by stunning aerial footage of him racing up 8,000 foot alpine faces. Ueli joins Alex Honnold in Yosemite to attempt speed records there. His ultimate goal: take his one-man alpine speed game to the largest, highest walls in the world.

Trailerhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVRDb1CBh58

Official web sitehttp://www.reelrocktour.com/films/

Going overseas for a while and these will do me no good sitting in the cupboard. All 4 are in great condition. $80.

Also for sale is 50m Flyer 2. In excellent condition, only saw minimal use. $180 o.n.o

Best to email me at carney_11@hotmail.com or call me on 63431699. I leave on the 18th of November so if you're interested get in touch before then.

Danny.

Just cleaning off the camera and found this taken in early August. Lake Dulverton was high and probably has only got higher since...

If anyone should have the good fortune to come across a red chalkbag somewhere on the Skyline traverse at Freycinet, please pop me a line!

The chalkbag was last seen sitting despondently next to a tree :)

This has all been very amusing. All I was after was Jake's corrections to our Ben guide update. There's a route in the North Esk I put up in 1982 called `Southern Suckers'. Those who responded to this thread ought to go and repeat it. The name says it all.