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Give me a buzz if you're keen to head up to the Pipes tmrw (Mon Nov 8th)! Late notice I know... :)

0403217754

Is it possible to PM people thru thesarvo?

It's supposed to be good weather... that would be swell times indeed!!

Just spent an epic day-trip out onto the Cape. Few Additions/beta for all those hoping to get out there this summer. First up there's a new route on the back of the Pole Dancer pillar, see description below. Possibly more classic than Pole Dancer, doing both makes for a great combo!

First thing though, when the rap stations going across the Wedding cake were installed, captive galvinised chain were used on SS dynabolts. Of course these are now rusting. we replaced two stations with SS hangers plus maillons. However the last rap point and the one on top of the pillar still need upgrading. this is a very simple process, so if your heading out soon get in touch and ill give you the gear to upgrade them. you'll just need to undo the nut, take them off and put the new hanger on the bolt.

Next thing, we added two bolts(just hangers) into the belay notch at the top of Rain of Terror. There are two exisiting U-bolt abseil stations, but these are obsolete(never were much good!) now the best thing to do is a 30m rap from the bolts at the top of Jihad, then another 30m rap from the new bolts. We felt these were required as on windy days, like yesterday, your ropes will get stuck in the notch if u try a full 60m abseil. i know two parties who've suffered this annoying fate. so basically ignore any u-bolts and you'll be fine. this also means a 60m rope is sufficient to get out across Wedding Cake etc.

Also the pond is full of water right now, but maybe take something to treat it with!

simon young

Certified Wise (23 40m)

Climbing up the opposite side of the Pole Dancer pillar, this route combined with Pole Dancer will make for a mind-blowing day out. Slightly trickier, CW provides absorbing, varied and interesting climbing on the best coastal dolerite you'll ever climb.

Access as for Pole Dancer. Instead of heading up the chimney though, scramble up to the notch between the two pillars to a nice ledge.

1) 35m 23 Crank up inital arete, making your way onto the face and over the roof. From the stance blast up the amazing arete enjoying the improbable sequences. Finish on DBB on ledge. 10 bolts

2) 5m 17 Layback the block past two bolts to the summit.

FA: Simon Young, Garry Phillips, Alex Lewis 6/11/2010

Descend as for Pole Dancer.

No natural gear required. Mostly M10x70mm truebolts used.

Hey guys,

I'm a uni student currently studying down in Hobart and a group of us were thinking of going bouldering around the place. The problem is we don't have a bouldering mat so if anybody is interested in renting out one to us do drop me a line. Thanks!

Yours,

Foong

HP: 0403745432

Email: yichaofoong@msn.com

If you are planning a Tassie Road Trip this summer, the selected best guide to the 20 best venues is available at a discount price from the author. `Climb Tasmania' is normally $44.95, but you can get it for $30 plus postage (about 9 bucks) from Gerry Narkowicz. Email your order to narkowiczg@lcs.tas.edu.au

One thing I like about Climbing Magazine and their related website is the regular feature of a classic climb. I thought this would be a fun thing for The Sarvo too. My suggestion this week is Fiddlesticks. One of the few quality easier climbs on The Organ Pipes, it is found on The Flange - which is home to probably the greatest concentration of stars on The Mountain. Fiddlesticks stands out as a pleasant cruise amongst a slew of much more difficult routes for the novice to aspire towards, or simply as a bit of fun for more expert climbers. A little rattly lower down, the route gets better and better the higher you climb. These days, with sixty metre ropes, its level of enjoyment is enhanced if you climb it as a single monster pitch, finishing out on the arete to the left of the top V-groove. A wonderful route, well worthy of the three stars in the guidebook.

In the meantime, take a look at climbing.com's featured classic of the moment: Bishop's Terrace in Yosemite Valley. (I can personally vouch that this is a gorgeous route, maybe even as good as Fiddlesticks. Even if you are climbing much harder and are visiting the valley for more ambitious undertakings, it's a nice little gem to romp up during an "active rest" day.) Of special interest is the third paragraph, where one of our very own local climbers is mentioned.

This one is another sandstone crag in the same belt of rock as sphinx and nieka. Its not worth walking to (30-40 mins) , but its a pleasant 15min mountain bike ride along the pipeline track startng at Nieka (Morphets Rd) and then a bit of a grunt up the hill. There is potential for only a couple of routes, and nothing that spectactular, but again I am surprised this has never been developed (although I think Dave Humphries might have done one trad route there a while ago).

About 3km along the track there is a blue water valve where a road goes down left. About 100m further on from this after a few slight bends there is a big burnt stump and a small cairn on the right side of the track. The Bumblebee boulder is visible in the bush 10m up the hill. Keep going past this about another 50m to concrete culvert where a creek comes down. Bash straight up the hill from here for 10min till you hit the crag.

There are quite a few other bits of sandstone along the track - both above and below the track. Further on there is quite a large chunk of obvious steep choss below the crag. There is also some limited potential on the dolerite at wellington falls which might be ok with the new track.

The big jug finish and associated large block at the top of dead zone no longer exist.

They came out on Thursday while i was climing it, narrowly missing a few belayers below, but scoring a direct hit on my now ex climbing rope.

If you come to lead this climb, just be aware that the finishing moves pulling over the top are now significantly harder.

Hi all,

I've just moved here from the UK to work, and am looking for people to get out and about with, either as a one-off or more regularly. I live in Burnie but keen to travel and see plenty of Tassie, so no worries with scooting down to Hobart or elsewhere for a day. I lead about E2 5c UK trad, which seems to be about grade 19-20 here, but very happy to second harder stuff, or just hold the other end of the rope if it's way beyond me :o) I'm a friendly, down-to-earth sort of bloke, and a doctor if that's any use to you? And I make pretty good sandwiches..

If you wouldn't mind dragging me along, give me a shout either here, at robbie_lambert@hotmail.com, or on 0404 383 130.

Alternatively (and having seen the rather depressing number of previous partner posts with zero replies!), if here isn't the right place to do this, any hints on how best to find partners gratefully received..

Cheers folks,

rob

A mate and I tried to find the rap point to Arthur's Circus - Mt Wellington, and we failed!

The guide provides the details provided below, however they proved insufficient for our abilities :(

After driving to the top of the mountain, then walking down the track to the top of The Columns, we spotted a massive cairn located south, presumably above Central Buttress. We made our way to this cairn, however once there we were unable to find any rap point. From my marvellous vague description, can anyone shed light on where we were supposed to go from there? Had we perhaps found the "prominent cairn" mentioned in the guide? We were looking for some rap rings, however is one supposed to build an anchor at this point? What route is the big cairn above?

Much thanks to anyone who can help! :)

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taken from thesarvo...

Arthur's Circus

First of all, however, high on the L at the top of Pooch Gully, is a large reddish wall, Arthurs Circus, with a prominent inverted L-shaped crack. The routes, Line Tamer to High Wire, are probably best located from the top by following the cliff line round to south of the Bert's Fear top abseil (GPS MTW170. Note this abseil is below the cliff tops so don’t go down to it), then continuing easily on past Pooch Gully, still along the cliff tops, and descend to the top of the Circus. A prominent cairn can be seen at the top. (built May 2008). From here, abseil in. Alternatively, scrub bash up Pooch Gully... ouch. Positioned at the top of the cliffs Arthurs Circus catches the sun and is a good location for the cooler months. It is only 15 minutes walk down from the top of the mountain.

A new 3 pitch route has been bolted up to the ledge below the big roof at Fingal. It was done mainly as an access route to Supernaut (24) and other hard projects on the go, on the upper tier of the cliff. The route is fully bolted along with rap anchors, except for a short 15m section of trad gear where it links into Conan Macmorna for a bit. While not pretending to be a 3 star classic and done primarily for access to the upper tier, most of the route offers very good moderate climbing up to grade 19, despite two short manky sections. Combined with Supernaut (the best pitch at Fingal)it makes for 150m of good climbing. The route is likely to become popular in its own right as a moderate multi-pitch sport route. It is now possible to rap all the way down Supernaut and Tomorrows Dream via 4 abseils (double 60m ropes required)

Tomorrows Dream 100m 19 **
FA: Gerry Narkowicz and Andrew Martin. 23/10/10

More or less a direct line up the face to the big roof and bisecting Conan Macmorna at one stage. Start 20m right of Conan Macmorna. Pitch 1 (30m, 16). Delightful climbing up the black slab to a narrow ledge, then traverse right for 5m to the next line of bolts up a steeper slab to double bolt belay at apex of orange triangle of rock. 12 bolts. Pitch 2 (25m, 17) Climb the big diagonal of Conan Macmorna to the right for 15m with trad gear, to point opposite bolt on left face (1st manky section) Traverse left spectacularly via 2 bolts on small rail to middle of face, then straight up to belay at chains on big ledge. 2 bolts plus cams size 1-4 and long slings. Pitch 3 (45m, 19) Move belay 5m right to another double bolt belay. Lovely face moves up the next black face for 4 bolts, followed by a 10m section of mank up to the base of the amazing orange headwall. Superb face climbing (crux) up the orange wall on Arapiles like rock, to belay at chains on ledge below big roof. 13 bolts. Either rap from here (two raps to ground with double 60m ropes) or continue up to Supernaut. For Supernaut(24), traverse right along narrow ledge to tree via 2 bolts, then up easy slab to double bolt belay, a 20m easy pitch. The start to Supernaut is 10m higher to the right, and is best to belay on the ground opposite the climb, and not on the double bolt belay (this is a rap station for descent off Supernaut).
Gear: 16 draws required, cams 1-4, double 60m ropes. 20 draws if doing Supernaut.

There is a massive field of boulders on the slopes leading up to the Tyndall Range, along the access road that follows the high voltage power lines south.

If you could get access to the road you could drive right to them, but with a 4 hour drive to get there, and west coast weather, they're not going to be developed anytime soon.

Map:

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=115989656407107465266.00046d738268eb40057a0&ll=-41.948575,145.568461&spn=0.024449,0.055747&t=h&z=15&iwloc=0004933cc8f37503aed23

You can see the dozens of boulders on the map to the south of the marker, all the way to Lake Margret.

A couple of photos taken by Aaron Scott on a recent bush walk. The individual boulders dont look that much but you can see the number of boulders in the background:

Tyndall boulders. Photo Aaron Scott.	Tyndall boulders. Photo Aaron Scott.	Tyndall boulders. Photo Aaron Scott.

Hey guys,

Just signed up.  I'm mainlander wanting to come to tassie to play!  I am planning to do a few climbs on Mt Geryon this summer and have a few questions that I am curious about.

First off I already have read this site and I have Climb Tasmania, is there much more information in the Chris Baxter guide?  I'm not too fussed if there isn't much further stuff in the guides as I'm happy with the adventure.  But its still good ask.  I also have the notes from the original first ascent of the East Face which are an interesting read including a nice lead fall onto a hip belay! 

Also how often are these routes climbed?  Would you expect monthly visitation during the summer?  Or something more sporadic?

Thanks guys,

Mark

A new route from Garry, on a new face - "on a whole new face on mt brown. We named it the Hidden Face its 150m high and is awesome. Faces south and is 500m around right of the othe one"

There are some very obvious large free standing boulders that you can see on the opposite hill (to the east) as you drive up to handsome crag.

There are about 6 to 8 quite large boulders. The rock is very mixed - some ok, some real choss. About the same as the Weakhold. Probably potential for 20-30 problems.

If you could drive up the road, they would get developed for sure as it would be less than 5 min walk.

But the road is very washed out and you need a proper 4wd. To walk from the main road is 20 - 25 minutes and a bit too far for the quality of whats there. I guess the road could be fixed up but that would be heaps of work.

Access is pretty simple - the GPS track and map says it all:

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=http:%2F%2Fwww.thesarvo.com%2Fconfluence%2Fdownload%2Fattachments%2F183992327%2FTrack%2B010.kmz&sll=-42.734154,147.083592&sspn=0.006036,0.013937&ie=UTF8&t=h&z=17

Some photos:

I seem to remember seeing an advert for the Reel Rock Tour to be held in Hobart later today... but I can't find any info on the web as to where/when... anyone out there got the answers?