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Just a little FYI for Mountain Lovers, there's a public forum/summit this Thursday night (12th) at the Lenah Valley Community Hall at 7:30-10:30pm.
Organised by wannabe MLC Dean Winter, this is presented as more of a night to discuss options for access to the summit which is masking another push for the Cable Car and now also a cog-and-pulley incline railway to the summit.
(Why not put the Syd monorail up there too?)
The more voices against the cable car (which in it's current design format by Adrian Bold has the cable car going over the Pipes) as well as the plain economic unfeasibility of the whole project should hopefully enlighten some of the ignorant attendants to the reality that it is not going to be the saviour to Tasmania's tourism industry.
Facebook link to the event below:
*http://www.facebook.com/events/199262960177484/\* (http://www.facebook.com/events/199262960177484/*)
The Mockery's article on the event is here:
*http://www.themercury.com.au/article/2012/03/31/314461_tasmania-news.html\* (http://www.themercury.com.au/article/2012/03/31/314461_tasmania-news.html*)
Jason
I've recently arrived to Tassie from the US. Looking for a partner to do some climbing on the island. I wasn't sure what the climbing situation would be like, so didn't bring much gear- just a harness, belay device and shoes. I'm a moderate leader in sport, but not much of a leader in trad- have done a lot of following though.
Cheers,
Jillian
jg0805@westminstercollege.edu
This morning we have launched a couple of months of blood, sweat and tears into a new climbing mag.
You can download it for the cost of NOTHING at www.verticallifemag.com.au - right in time for the annual climbing holy day celebration that is Easter.
If you love getting your zen on when on big cliffs (or tiny boulders), believe strongly that Having-Lats-Like-A-Bat-Is-Where-It's-At and love dreaming as you live vicariously through the exploits of others, it's for you.
Big thanks to all the helpers, the advice-givers and the hand-holders.
Simon and Ross - editors of Vertical Life
Hi guys,
I found a static rope at the Longley climbing area on Saturday. It seemed quite lonely and exposed to the elements, so I grabbed it. If anyone knows anything about it and wants to claim it, you can contact me here. I'll not be able to reply till easter though. And on that note enjoy your holiday!
Hi folks,
I've been in tas since Feb working on the Tasman Peninsular 8 days on 6 days off. I'm free to hike and climb six days a fortnight. Looking for a climbing buddy for the days off.
I've got a car, a rack and a couple of ropes. Happy to climb sport, trad, or even top rope. Mt Wellington, Tasman Peninuslar, Frenchman's or anywhere else on my days off. I really only lead to about grade 17 at the moment but will grovel up on second if need be.
Send me an email or call on 0401780339 if you're interested. I might not have reception where I'm working.
Cheers,
Cam
Hi, I was climbing at Hillwood on the weekend (25/3/2012) and I think I might have left my climbing shoes somewhere there, they may be in the carpark. Yellow Scarpa's, if anyone has any info it would be much appreciated.
Did you leave some gear on the anchors of one of the routes at Waterworks recently? If so, give me your contact details so I can arrange to get it to you.
Cheers
Doug
Proctors Road Quarry will be open this Tuesday 27th 1700-2030
The catch is due to public liability you will need to be a member of the Tas Uni Climbing Club to be covered by their insurance.
You can sign up on the night, it is $40 for non uni students (bring cash)
It's not a bad place to climb, something different is always good :)
Guide is here http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Proctors+Road+Quarry
Hopefully cya there
Jed
Oh, Umm, oops. This is a singles site, isn't it?! But seriously, I'm planning a trip down hemisphere this Fall (or your Spring), November, and really don't know what I've gotten myself into :) Any help in the way of direction and partnering would be great! Is it easy to find people to climb with? Do I need a car? Thanks ahead of time!
Ryan
Saw some interesting activity on Cape Raoul on Tuesday. We were minding our own business, sailing passed the Cape, when we realised that one of the pillars was inhabited.
Anybody know who they are?
I have been doing quite a bit of bouldering in the Gorge lately - adding a fair number of problems as well as repeating many that have already been done. As most of what I feel to be the best problems aren't currently in the guide, I've decide to update it and in the process do a bit of an overhaul to make all the styles and images consistent, ect. I've currently only updated the Sunny Side, but will continue to update the other areas over the next few weeks as I have time. If, when perusing the updated version, you find I've downgraded and changed the name or completely omitted your super-sick-project, I apologise in advance and feel free to change/add it back. Additionally, if your out bouldering and think my grading is off and you've got a good idea what you think the proper grade should be, feel free to change that too. Its usually just me out by myself doing these problems and I have a hard time anyway assessing difficulty in the easier grade range. When I'm finished with the update I also intend to post some video of the best problems, both to provide beta and to give a feel for the type of climbs to be had. Hopefully it will be utilized in the future.
Three points for folks climbing at Hillwood:
- Although the climbers who opened so many of the routes at Hillwood did a brilliant job setting up Tasmania's premier and unique sport climbing area (most notably, Gerry Narkowicz, Mark Rewi and Norm Selby), some of the anchors could have been better realised. Quite a number consist of bolt hangers, each with a shackle added which tend to twist ropes badly when retrieved after doing your climb. There are now improvements to three sets of these sorts of anchors above the Chessboard, with the addition of chains to the shackles. They are on:
- Revelation Six Sixteen
- Ligament Laxity
- Arse About Face/Nothing Left to Give. NB: one of the shackles on this anchor set-up is adequate, but would be better were it replaced with a larger one. Also, it would be good to take a bolt-cutter and remove one link from one of the chains so that they are equalised.
- Nothing Left to Give (19) has four bolts. The first is a bolt + hanger set-up, the following three are carrots. I found that I couldn't get a RP hanger on the second one, and the first one was very difficult to get a hanger on. If you want to do this route I suggest you either use hangers with a bigger hole or hang wires off the first two bolts.
- Not in the guide because it was done after the guide came out is Religious Rubbish (20), which uses the first bolt on Ghost Rider, then moves left and up on the black hangers. I reckon it's worth two stars, and mention it here because I was surprised to hear that a number of people who regularly visit Hillwood weren't really sure what it was and haven't been on it.
Cheers,
Doug
I'm heading to tasmania this weekend, I don't know how long time to stay yet, it depends on the weather.
Someone who want to take a day with me at the cliffs? I have climbed alot but don't do so hard climbes (yet) sportclimb and tradclimbing around 15-17.
Planning to rent a car in Tasmania.
/Benny
To Beard Strokers and Ipod Kids,
Re Geryon, PB etc., Well done heroes and legends, good to see wilderness climbing with due epics and suffering is not dead.
As to blogs they can be fun to read or boring when there is too much self glorification administered.
However I did find the Geryon one entertaining. It’s about time there were a few more beards and long hair around again.
Precipitous Bluff (PB) Photos:-
PB in winter from the air:-
PB Main Face:-
PB Range Traverse:-
PB (Topping Out):-
Thirsty Beard Stroker in a sleet shower returning from a climbing trip to PB (1980s):-
Since everyone else seams to be shamelessly self promoting their blogs, I thought I would do the same. http://www.cjclimbs.blogspot.com.au This is the story of the new route me and Simon did at the Acropolis with pics and video. For the beard strokers, it may be a bit boring. For the iphone generation, I hope it inspires some to do a bit more fun-style documentation of their adventures! Also in the near future, I will be putting up last years exploits in Yosemite when I free climbed el cap and half-dome, as well as when I accidentally used poison oak as toilet paper. Something for everyone!
cj











