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See topos at this link for another ripping new route at Fingal. http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/2012/07/17/a-terrible-beauty-is-born-another-fingal-classic/

TCIA AGM This Thursday 7.00pm 5 July 2012 at the New Sydney Hotel, Bathurst St, Hobart.

Hello from the U.S.A. Di and I are currently holed up in a motel in Othello, Washington after climbing Outer Space on Snow Creek Wall in Leavenworth, then driving for a few hours. I thought you might like something to lift your mid-winter spirits, and add a bit of motivation for those Waterworks and Freuhauf training sessions.

Our day began with the hike up the Snow Creek Trail. It was an auspicious start to our outing, as we saw a family of 4 mountain goats just a short way up the hill after crossing the bridge that spans Icicle Creek.
The goats seemed to be turning rocks over and licking the surface underneath. Maybe getting some sort of salty element necessary for their metabolism?

We soon entered the park, marked by this sign:

It was our third hike up the trail in 8 days. We walked up a week ago to check out the approach, as it had been 26 years since we'd been in the area. 

We had also hiked in the next day to climb Orbit, the other moderate classic on the wall, so we were used to the walk which involves a bit of an uphill slog for the first bit. 

Snow Creek Wall soon loomed into view:

Most of the climbing on Snow Creek Wall is done on the left hand end, and Outer Space gets the majority of the traffic from both visiting climbers and locals alike. We made an early start, and three other parties were on the way up the route by the time we finished, with one other party climbing Orbit.

There were some devastating fires around the base of Snow Creek Wall in 1994. The bottom of the valley was choked with fallen trees but a route through had been established via a few logs. The lower part of the opposite slope, where the fire had really had a major effect was littered with downed trees and significant erosion. Higher up though the forest was still standing.

The next photo is from Orbit, and shows the Snow Creek Trail and some of the damage done by the fire:

While we were gearing up, another mama goat with a kid in town strolled by to check us out. The kid was very shy but the mama was very curious and came with about 10 metres:

Maybe it's because we were a lot earlier in the season this year, but we've seen an abundance of goat on this trip to the crag, whereas the last time we were here we didn't see any.

Anyway, here's a reasonably accurate topo of the classic line (some folks do a more direct start which involves some climbing at 10d):

(Orbit takes a line near the skyline, gaining the upper wall left of the most obvious roof).

As I have digressed, I couldn't help including a couple of photos from Orbit. This one is of Di nearing the long and involving third pitch:
And what is maybe our best goat photo, from near the summit:
The places some of these goats get is truly amazing!

Anyway, back to Outer Space.

It seems that 70 metre ropes are pretty much de rigueur for climbing in Leavenworth. The route is described in the guidebook as 6 pitches, but at least 2 - the long traverse on "pitch" 2 and the last "pitch" - are more than 60 metres, so bear that in mind if you come to do the route some time. 

The crux pitch however is relatively short at about 33 metres if you take the most direct option and is more sustained at the grade. Here is a fairly ordinary photo of me about to start the engaging traverse section (which can be fairly easily identified on the topo above):

Here's a photo I took a little ways up pitch 5 looking down on Di at the Pedestal Belay at the top of pitch 4:

Pitch 5 is nearly 50 metres (it was a rope-stretcher when we did this route in 1986 with 50 metre ropes!). Note the slung chicken head in the photo below:

We made it to the top in reasonable nick:

One thing to be aware of though if you go to do this route, is that the descent is "interesting". The first two thirds is fairly straightforward, if a bit exposed in places. The last bit can be a bit tricky. When we did Orbit a week ago, I managed to find the correct route - or at least a version of it. Di went a different way for the last bit and was nonplussed. We missed the turnoff this time and I followed Di down the way she went previously. This seems to be a common problem, judging from various comments that people make. Anyway, this "detour" added about an hour to the day out. All up just over 10 hours car to car. An hour and a half less than the day we had on Orbit, but that's another story.

Cheers

Doug 

3 page article starting page 7 in the Saturday magazine

Hi all,

Just wondering if Oatlands is climbable in June. Have some time on Sunday and was keen for a boulder.

Cheers,

Phil

Apologies for thesarvo being down way too much, I'm looking into the cause. May have to move to a new server.

Cheers

Jon

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i lost a new graphite nano ipod on thursday night at the uni climbing wall. it must've fallen out of my bag or jacket, which were sitting just behind the roped climbers, and just in front of the climbing club's pile of odorific climbing footwear. if you picked it up please let me know: 0419 448 856.

Hey folks,

There were two draws left on Jesus Built My Hammerdrill at Waterworks Quarry, one on the last bolt and one on the lower off. Please let me know if they belong to you, or someone you know.

Cheers, Kaely

There was a spot on the 7.30 report about the first ascent of the candlestick, 40 years ago. Features Glen Kowalik and Mendelt Tilema.

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2012-06-01/candlestick-conquerors/4048202

Theres mostly Uncarved block holds, but some Metolius and Jerry Moffat holds (all good brands/shapes, great variety)  mix of sizes including 5 x large holds, 16 x medium, 7 x small, and 68 x footers (96 in total) All for $250-!!!

Plus I have 2 x climbing wall frames (NOW $200 for both), these are made out of Galvanised steel 65cm square tubing (bomber), I bought them off a bouldering gym in QLD and they are professionally made.  They would be perfect for a wall where u just want to fix the vertical back edge of it (minimal carnage to a rental property etc) or on an outside wall (need to build a little roof over it to protect panels) (The person in pic is 6 foot 2) ideally its best to make a slightly higher vertical kicker at base to jack it up a bit (easy)

The top angle is about 40 degrees and the shape makes a good bulge. Height vertical is 2.86m, horizontal is 2.21cm. Easy to extend the 40 degree headwall with some hardwood (we did this at the Monkey Cage and it was a great wall)

Call Adam on 0435024192

Seems like a good day for selling things - I've got a pair of Sportiva Katana velcro size 37.  Never used.  $100.  0405 636 691.

Brand new unused Black Diamond no2 Cam and 0.75 Cam for sale for $50 each.  Also set of DMM brass offsets no's 2,3 & 4 for $50.  Anyone interested?

Owen Gervasoni. I have your Anasazi V2 climbing shoes but I don't have your number. You can call or email me 0459 122 559 johnyru yahoo com. Im going to Boneyards til Wednesday. See ya!

Uni Climbing Gym is open again :)

Open Tue & Thu, 6 till 9

However before u can climb at the gym you have to have done the uni gym induction (and be a member of the uni climbing club $40 for non students)

So be at uni gym tonight at 525 NO LATER to do the induction (other inductions will happen (Thur at 530)) Let's get psyched :) Cya there :)

Jed