Blog

I am a German scientist working in Tassie for a couple of months. I would like to climb Federations peak (3 days via farmhouse creek) soon (depending on the weather) and I am looking for someone going with me.

I am experienced in mountaineering (instructor for the German alpine club) and in Tasmanian bushwalking.

Send me an e-mail: andreas.rothe@hswt.de or give me a call: 0459124606

Cams SOLD

I've got 4 TCU's (two Metolius, two Wired Bliss) plus one 4CU (Metolius) surplus to my needs.
$15 each or the lot for $60, plus postage.
All wires in excellent condition and cams articulate smoothly.

Also surplus to my needs, I've got a brand new (manufacturer's pamphlet still attached) size 3 Wild Country Helium cam for sale. $70 

Call or text 0407 310 287 if you're interested.

 

Updating and reprinting the Climb Tas selected best guide - new climbs and revamped in full colour. Since the book came out in late 2005, some good new routes have been done around the state. PLease make suggestions as to which of the new routes should be included in the new selected best guide. Especially Pipes, Tas peninsular, Freycinet, Tyndalls. If you have quality high res action photos, there is a guidebook in it for you if it gets published. Mail disc to me c/o 5 Howard St Invermay, 7248 or narkowiczg@lcs.tas.edu.au  Thanks

Training in Hobart?

Where do people who live in Hobart train these days?

Woodies in backyards?

Thinking of taking a short-term work posting to Tas but want to make sure I can get some mid-week training, as well as weekends on the rock.

Any advice much appreciated.

Development of Clean Climbing

From Supertopo, nice historical discussion on the evolution of passive protection:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1220704/Nuts-To-You-Royal-Robbins-Clean-Climbing-Intro-Summit-1967

 

Forum logic cheat sheet

Don't know what a straw man argument is? Never fear, here's a poster to print out and put up next to your computer:

https://yourlogicalfallacyis.com/pdf/FallaciesPoster24x36.pdf

 

https://yourlogicalfallacyis.com/

 

gear found at hillwood

cleaned some gear off a route at rock of ages today (17/3). if it's yours, let me know what route it was on & describe the gear and it's all yours.

cheers,grug (nwperndt@gmail.com)

Macpac- Cascade 90L women's Harness $100 ONO

Pack in very good condition, just too big for me.

Please contact me if you are interested I'm in Hobart.

Phone: 0438073670

Email: anna.k.lynch@gmail.com

Has someone left his/her climbing shoes in Waterwork Quarry this afternoon?

searching for climbers

Hi,

We are two backpackers who will get to Hobart on tuesday, the 19th. We want to travel and explore tasmania and it would be really gread to do some rockclimbing as well. We climb up to 23/24 and have the basic gear for sportclimbing with us (60m rope, 14 quickdraws...).

Unfortunately, we are both not that into tradclimbing. But we would like to try out in some easy climbs if we find someone who wants to share his rack with us :-) So if there are some locals or other backpackers we could join just text us or send us a message.

Jonas and Ori

climbing.jonas@gmx.de

0423627754

looks like Rysavy Ridge is going to get a low impact via ferrata!

http://www.themercury.com.au/article/2013/03/10/374245_tasmania-news.html

 at least they never built the road...

Hi all,

As a thank you to the HCC track workers who have been working now for some months on the access tracks to the Organ Pipes, the CCT is organising a BBQ on Thursday 14 March at the Water Works Reserve ( BBQ 1), from 1.00pm to 3.00pm.  Meat, salads  and soft drinks provided. Be great to get as many people along as possible to say thanks, and share a yarn over a beer.

 

RSVP please if you can come by Tuesday 12 March – we appreciate it is in the working week (okay for the retirees!) but it has to fit in with the work-crew and their family commitments etc.

The tracks are looking great now, and it's really good to have a good working relationship with the local council. Set's a very good precedent in maintaining access issues etc. So don't be shy, come along and get involved!

Simon Young

Anyone climbing this summer on the Pipes in places other than Northern Buttress will have noticed that routes are becoming easier to access. Despite early fears amongst some members of the local climbing community, I think that most folks would agree that the result is relatively low impact on the environment for the gains. Most of the tracks heading up from the Organ Pipes Track - actually all but the Northern Buttress track - start up scree slopes. For one particular route - access to The Flange - the route has been noticeably widened. Most of the others have had a bit of scrub removed to make the route a bit more obvious and easier to follow.

The Hobart City Council track workers have now nearly finished what they started back in December. A few more bits of clearing, a bit of rock pitching below Great Tier and placement of the signs on the top of the mountain showing the routes down to the Amphitheatre, etc is all that remains to be done.

Below are some photos showing:

  • signage on the main Organ Pipes track leading up to one of the buttresses:

 

  • a sign showing two tracks diverging partway up to the cliff:

  • before and after at the base of Blue Meridian (a little work still needs to be done):

  • and a photo of an old geezer in the same place, giving a perspective on how this actually relates to people on the track:

Cheers

Doug

 

I propose a new trad route grading system inspired by the superior ethical standards of Simon Young - it's called SIMON STYLE or 'SS' for short (no connection to that Nazi paramilitary organization).

All trad routes could be given an `SS' rating depending how they compare to the commonly held standard Simon has encountered in his worldwide travels and by which he practices.

The three ratings are like the star system:

SSS - SUPER SIMON STYLE.. The triple `S' rating is for routes done ground-up with no rap inspection or cleaning, for those first ascensionists who rose to the challenge and took the rock at face value and just climbed it in its natural state, onsight. This is the ultimate style, though naked and solo should rate a SSSS rating - SALUBRIOUS SUPER SIMON STYLE. I can't remember the last time I put up a new route in SSS style, but I think it was some poxy crack up the Gorge.

SS - SIMPLE SIMON STYLE. A double `S' rating is not as super, sensational, stellar or superior as a `SSS' route. Something like `Running On Air' at Mt Anne which Simon and Alex did - a noble attempt at super Simon style, but fell short because of one hang on the crux pitch.

S - SHIT SIMON STYLE. A single `S' rating is for trad routes done in shit style such as rap inspection, cleaning and trundling the line prior to climbing, tantamount to sanitizing the trad experience - you might as well place a bolt.It doesn't matter that the route was led placing gear on lead and flashed without a fall - its still Shit Simon Style. This would include all Gerry's routes on Ben Lomond this summer - absolute shit. As for trad routes on pre-placed gear, or dogging the gear in before redpoint, that is lower than shit; that would be stinking, shocking, substandard shit Simon Style (another category?)

So next time you put up a new trad route consider Simon Style and assess whether your route was super, simple or shit according to what SIMON SAYS.