We're pretty sure this one has already been done, but thought we'd ask around. Yesterday a mate & I climbed a "direct start" from the V groove chimney on the zawn side of The Moai that links in with 'Sacred Site' as it curves around into the top bolt line. Goes at about the same grade (18) but I'm guessing a touch more consistent. Could be quite nice if it wasn't so sandy. Led solely on trad gear bar the top anchors.

Hi All,

Have just moved to Hobart, and I am looking for some regular climbing partners. I'll be here until end of Jan 2017.

I prefer to trad climb (18-20), but will do sport happily (21-22?), and keen to get out most weekends to the town crags or ideally the Organ Pipes.

Anyway, if you can help me out, let me know.

Dan

For those not following along on Instagram, Sonnie Trotter has done a repeat of the free Ewbank Route on the tote, linking it up into a single 60m pitch - calling it the "the first complete Free Ascent of the Ewbank Route".

Very impressive, but I think the FFA stays with Doug and Dean!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BBgL61hEsT5/?taken-by=sonnietrotter

Some good photos here:

https://www.instagram.com/sonnietrotter/

https://www.instagram.com/bearcam/

https://www.instagram.com/willstanhope/

Hi Jon

It seems that at least one person is having problems with the forum, finding that it "times out".

Comments?

Cheers

Doug

The thesarvo iPhone app has a new version in the App Store - version 2.0.

Major changes are:

• Content updated
• I rewrote the navigation to use a menu that you can show and hide
• Searching is better
• It shows a table of contents of the current guide in the menu, so you can flick between climbs easier
• Maps show tracks as well as points for the maps that have them (eg Killiecrankie, Kempton, a few others)
• And most importantly, changes to the guides on thesarvo.com now sync to the app. It checks for updates to content every now and again, and immediately pulls down new text and images.
• iOS 8 and later

It's still free at the moment (as Apple made it more complicated to charge money and I haven't filled in the right forms).

Get it by searching for "thesarvo" on the app store, or click the buttone below:

There's probably plenty of bugs in it, as there is lots of new code, add a comment here if you find one.

Steve Brown, who  was on the first ascent  back in 1977 and who now owns the farm below, reckons there have been at least 34 ascents of the Ridge this summer (2015-2016) so far. He points out:

• Many parties are still underestimating the length of time it takes to climb and descend the route and are returning in the dark even with  summer evenings. It is easy to get lost on the route, jam ropes etc etc – take a head torch, start early... and there is NO water on the way up or down.
• He has a log book at the gate now for visitors to sign and to leave their comments - he would appreciate visitors filling it in, both as a safety precaution, and to read your comments (!)
• And some climbers are recommending soloing/simul climbing the route – worth remembering it is a mountain route, not a well trodden crag climb, and although overall the rock is sound, there can be (and is) loose rock, dodgy holds, spaced pro, getting lost on harder grounds etc. Probably not a place to lead if Grade 12 is anywhere near your limit or you have little experience of  big faces.

He does also say most people seem to have a great time!!!

Hi guys, FYI - placed some fixed biners, replaced some old fixed gear, removed some old tat etc...

Fruehauf anchors: (did this a while ago so most of you will already have seen/used the new stuff)

• replaced the steel chain and ring above 'General Benefit' with a 316 Stainless Steel chain and two fixed biners of same dimension
• replaced the chain above 'Play Launch' with a 316 Stainless Steel chain and two fixed biners

Sphinx anchors:

• replaced fixed biner (perma-draw) at the anchor of 'Short, Sharp and Shit Scared' with a 316 Stainless Steel fixed chain and biner (still have the old quickdraw, whoever placed it in the first place can have it back, though I definitely recommend not climbing on it anymore)
• replaced old fixed sling at anchor of 'Shot, Sharp and Shit Hot' with a 316 Stainless Steel fixed chain and biner (sling was worn 2/3rds the way through)
• placed two 316 stainless steel fixed biners on stainless steel maillons and chain links on the two U-bolt shared anchor of 'The Pie Man' and 'The Fear Factory'

Curry Cliffs rap-station (Bruny Island):

• Replaced the old tat-station above 'Tandoori' with 4 metres of 316 stainless steel chain linked with a 316 stainless steel maillons connecting the chain ends
  • placed new permanent chain
  • removed old tat (45l backpack full of old tat)
  • removed all other tat atop the Curry Cliffs
    
    

*All chains, maillons and fixed carabiners are stainless steel - fixed carabiners used are the Climbing Technology ones available here http://www.climbinganchors.com.au/products/climbing-technology-captive-bar-stainless-steel-wire-gate 

Wherever I placed one of the above fixed biners I used a maillon and chain to build something similar to a steel quickdraw connected to the original bolts.

More to come soon,

Cheers, 

Tommy

Happy Climbing Everyone!!

Just moved to Mersey hospital for a 7week job

I have sunday 24th and monday 25th Jan off and also

29th Jan

1st feb, 6th feb

if anyone keen to climb roped anything anywhere!

i climb in the 20s and have a car harness and shoes

Dan 0422888846

Hi All,

i found a softshell at ben lomond, i'm back in nsw but id be happy to post it. let me know if it's yours.

Mark

Hi, please check out the new routes done at Africa this summer. Some nice pics by Simon B and Nick Hancock of the action.

http://climbtasmania.com.au/blogs/news/73146757-africa-guide-update

http://www.themercury.com.au/news/tasmania/queensland-climber-rescued-from-pole-dancer-on-tasmanias-cape-raoul/news-story/60c04c136848de36d98c72c60df7d866

A CLIMBER who fell from a rock pillar about 55m above sea level on the Tasman Peninsula has been plucked to safety by the Westpac Rescue helicopter.

Tasmania Police said the climber, a Queensland man in his 20s, was traversing an area known as “The Pole Dancer” at Cape Raoul with a party of four yesterday when he fell about 8m.

The injured climber landed on a small ledge on the eastern side of Cape Raoul and was secured by other members of his climbing party.

The rescue helicopter, which was called out about 2pm, winched a rescue crewman and paramedic to the lofty location.

Police said the patient was treated on the ledge for about an hour in “extremely challenging circumstances”.

Once stabilised, the man was winched into the chopper and flown to the Royal Hobart Hospital in a serious condition.

Twice in the last 2 days thesarvo has been hit by spammers, wiping out content with shite

I've fixed it all, but for the time being creating new users is off, as that's the easiest way to prevent new attacks.

If anyone desperately needs an account, you can contact me.

There will probably be some outages in the next few days as I upgrade stuff.

I picked up someone's  shoes by mistake on Monday night  if they are yours text me on 0419594931 and ill drop them back to you.  Justin

This is a very interesting article for those interested in good bolting practice: RI_201403_BoltCorrosionArticle.pdf.  

The key take-outs, that aren't very widely recognised among climbers are:

1) Stainless steel is still at risk of pitting corrosion in highly aggressive environments (especially, but not only, marine). This kind of corrosion isn't obvious to the naked eye and can lead to sudden failure.  

2) Sun can cause high temps in the steel and this greatly accelerates this pitting corrosion.  

3) Expansion bolts are far more susceptible to this problem than glue-ins (principally because there are less "crevices").  

As a result of this I have made one change to the way I make U-bolts and that is to grind the notches only where they will be embedded at least 10 mm below the surface.  The notches are a weak-point for corrosion so having them well-covered is important.  

My opinion on stainless expansion bolts in Tas is that for most non-coastal cliffs they appear to have a good track record.  On coastal cliffs (within a few km of the sea) we can't be so sure and hence it is probably better to use a replaceable style (e.g. "dynabolt") rather than non-replaceable (e.g. "trubolt").  Be especially careful with sunny sea-cliffs.