Blog

If anyone has hiked this track in the last couple of years I am interested in the state of the track through to New River, particularly the section through Leaning Tea Tree Saddle.

With the intention of familiarising the Police with our rescue techniques and constantly refineing our skills, a core group of climbers met at the Springs on a wet and cold morning. Unfortunately the Police were unable to attend as they were out the previous night on a rescue mission. 

Undetered by the snow showers the team headed up to the Notthern Buttress and climbed up to the top of Centaur via a wet and snowy ramble  to the left of skyline minor.

After establishing a fixed line, we proceeded to execute our objective of raising a patient up Centaur in two pitches using a counterbalance raise then lowering them in two pitches to ground.

With the addition of leading ground up (which we are capable of ) , this exercise covers a range of techniques that would allow us to perform a rescue on virtually any cliff of any size. 

Thanks to all involved (Stu Scott, Chris Hampton, Tim Wheelan, Will Hobbs and Steve Ford). Thanks also to those that couldn't make it but have trained with the team. 

Hi All,

The Climbers Club of Tasmania will have its Annual general meeting at 7pm on Tuesday 22 November in the meeting room upstairs at the Republic, North Hobart. Agenda below. Also attached is a brief resume of the work the committee has done over the last two years, FYI.

At the end of the (hopefully) short meeting, Roger Parkyn will be showing photos from his climbing trip to California 2014.  All are welcome and you can join (for free) on the night if you're not a member.

The main purpose of the meeting it to comply with the incorporation requirements where we must have an AGM, elect officers, submit an annual return etc. If possible PLEASE consider putting your name forward for a committee position – the work load is certainly less than onerous, and we need new ideas, contributions and, dare I say it (!), energy. The need for a voice for climbers has never been greater.
 

Send in nominations to Jon (jon.nermut@gmail.com ) for the office holders election up to the meeting, and if it needs be, a vote will be held on the night.

Let me (tmckenny@outlook.com) or Jon know if you have any specific agenda items to be added.
See you there!

Tony and Jon

­------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Agenda

Climbers Club of Tasmania
Annual General Meeting
Date: Tuesday 22 Nov
Time: 7pm
Location: Upstairs at the Republic Bar & Cafe, North Hobart

Chairman: Jed Parkes

1. Welcome

2. Treasurers Report 

3. A resolution to seek an exemption from audit as per  http://www.consumer.tas.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0008/119726/Guide_to_the_exemption_process.pdf

4. Election of committee positions

 *   President
 *   Vice-President & Public Officer
 *   Secretary
 *   Treasurer

 *   3 Committee members

5. Other business - TBD

6. Trip report, California – Roger Parkyn

3 new videos featuring Tas climbing from visitors last summer:

"As a Guide" 

"The Pommish Invasion" 

"Lifelist"

Seize The Day (26) at Duck Reach had its first complete trad ascent yesterday by Isaac Lethborg. The ascent is significant considering the history of the route, its stature as probably the best line in the Gorge, and its boldness. Mick McHugh aided the route for the first ascent in 1971. Simon Parsons did the first free ascent in 1986 and at the time it was the hardest route in the state. Simon used 3 bolts and natural gear. Later the route was retrobolted with 7 bolts and turned into a sport route. Isaac skipped all the bolts and placed what he called `bomber' gear to the roof. He placed a wire on the crux headwall, only to have it fall out as he climbed past, thus creating a 5m run-out to the anchors, pretty bold on grade 26 moves. Well done to Isaac on a great lead.

Walls of Jerusalem.

Following on from the fires and rains earlier this year, Parks have confirmed that access to the Walls and to the Gullet is restricted. The Mersey State Forest Road will be closed just after the turning to the Devil's Gullet for at least 6-7 months, maybe more if the most recent rains have caused more damage. Access to the Walls now is from over the Plateau although the Lake Augusta road is also closed  but due to open "shortly". Contact Parks at the Great Western Tiers Field Centre on (03) 67012104 for more info.

Devil's Gullet.

The Gullet burnt. The lookout and track are closed till further notice, the lookout being fire damaged through heat stress. The cliff line apparently burnt intensely and looks spectacular without the vegetation cover - but the rock will inevitably be unstable in parts. Again, contact Parks at the Great Western Tiers Field Centre on (03) 67012104 for more info.

Meehan Range (including Rocky Tom)

As far as we can deduce,  some of the range is still technically private land but Parks are developing a management plan for the whole area. The CCT has been asked for input and Stu Scott and Tony McKenny will be liaising with Shannon Fox at Parks - let us know if you have any comments you want us to put forward. 

This is a copy of a thread I put on Chockstone, which I thought may be of interest to locals. Some interstate visitors were taking the piss out of me, saying I over-rate the quality of alot of my new routes. This is fair comment, as any new router knows; you put so much effort in to a new climb that when the project is done; `its the best route I ever put up' ..its just frothing enthusiasm, redpoint glory..forgive me for exaggeration at times, but I still think I've managed to put up a few good ones over the years. Anyway, here is the chockstone thread, and I'd be interested in your comments.

This thread is partly in response to rowans comment about my first ascents. He said "Well it's just taste I guess. But I found that your self appraisals of your first ascents was a state wide running joke when I was in Tassie. You have climbed some awesome routes first but not as many as your guide books claim. I was told on several occasions whilst at the crag to take two stars off any Gerry route in the guide. That was locals beta."

It made me wonder who these locals were, and then I got to thinking whether their opinion, or the opinion of interstate visitors like rowan and One Day Donkey Boy has any credibility, and is their assessment of a climb worth listening to. I went through my Climb Tasmania guidebook, which has the best 850 routes at the 25 best crags and took note of the first ascensionists. I did this because it is mainly these people whose opinion I respect when it comes to judging a route's quality. The first ascensionists have runs on the board, they have done some hard yards, scrubbed some climbs, done some exploring, invested in bolts, worked the routes and made an effort to develop the sport. Knowing most of these people, I have found them less likely to be critical of a climb, because they know what effort goes into a first ascent. And if they are scathing of a route, I take notice because they usually have good reason to be, and they also know people are sitting in judgement of their climbs. I also respect others opinion to some degree because any climber can assess the quality of a climb, but the opinion of first ascensionists with runs on the board holds far greater credibility.

Before people claim that I am biased towards my own climbs (which I am a bit), this guidebook was a big collaborative effort by the Tasmanian climbing community, and the key players were asked to submit lists of the best routes and assign star ratings to the climbs. A big plus for the guidebook is that there has been very little criticism of the guide because everybody down here wanted the guide to succeed and many people were consulted on all aspects of the guide especially on which climbs made the selected best list. The Climb Tasmania guidebook is now generally accepted as the `go to' book documenting the best climbs in the state. So who have been the main pioneers of the best routes in Tassie?

Of the 850 climbs selected by a panel of local climbers, 364 of them were put up by 4 people; myself, Nick Hancock, Bob McMahon and Garry Phillips. 42% of the classic routes in Tassie were pioneered by these 4 guys. Now my old mate Bob has passed away, so that means Nick and Garry are the two guys whose opinion on Tassie climbing I respect the most. If they think my climb is donkey dick quality, then it probably is. Expand the list to people who contributed over 20 classics, and you end up with only 6 more people and 539 climbs. 63% of the classic routes in Tassie were put up by 10 people, guys like Neale Smith, Sam Edwards, Simon Parsons, Dr John Fisher (not CJ), Norm Selby and Roger Parkyn. I listen to these men because they have done a huge amount of quality development.

Expand the list to people who did the first ascent of ten classics or more, and you end up with another 20 people: Bryan Kennedy, Ingvar Lidman, Andrew Martin, Doug Fife, Michael Fox, Lyle Closs, Ben Maddison, John Fantini, Mick Ling, Kim Carrigan, Danny Ng, Nic Deka, Doug McConnell, Pete Steane, Garn Cooper, Simon Young, Phil Bigg, Ian Lewis, Al Williams and the Jackson brothers. I have climbed or socialized with most of these people, and if they talk about route quality or climbing ethics, I will take note..their opinion has weighty credibility.

A few people deserve special mention because of a few singular amazing efforts: Jake Bresnehan and Kim Robinson for some very hard climbs, Adam Donoghue for his efforts in the Tyndalls, Steve Monks and Simon Mentz and John Ewbank for the Totem Pole, and Chris Dewhirst and Dave Neilson for pioneering climbs at Frenchmans. Other noteworthy pioneering efforts have been done by Phil Robinson, Tony Mckenny, Reg Williams, Mike Douglas, and John Moore.

So the locals that Rowan spoke to who said to take two stars off my climbs..if they are not some of the people I have listed above, then their opinion has little credibility in my opinion. Which probably leads into another potential thread..I hate the star rating system..it is too subjective and results in many excellent climbs of 1 or 2 star rating being neglected, because everybody only wants to climb 3 star routes (hint: want to climb 3 stars? Just look for G.Narkowicz FA in the guidebook)

I spent a bit of time recently compiling a list of all the first ascents I've been involved with over the past 36 years and got inspired to write this article. Hope you enjoy the read. Thanks

http://climbtasmania.com.au/blogs/news/towards-1000-new-climbs-my-climbing-life-so-far-1

Just a heads up that Bare Rock, Fingal is closed for the nesting season.

Lots of new routes went up again this season. I personally had a great season up there and can't wait for it to open up again.

Big thanks to Andrew for the continuing support he gives the climbing community for allowing us access through his property to one of tassies biggest climbing assets FINGAL woop woop!!!

Andrew Martin and Gerry Narkowicz have been having a bit of fun rediscovering the potential at South Sister. A bit of exploration and scrub bashing has revealed a host of new routes and entirely new buttresses...see the updated thesarvo guide. Last weekend I found another 10 new cracks of 25m height awaiting a first ascent, plus another 6 potential sport routes. Looks like the next few months will be busy until Bare Rock opens and the Ben Lomond season begins.

I'll be in Hobart for the next month. I'm pretty keen to do some gym climbing after work and do a few weekend trips on rock while I'm here. I've got draws, trad gear and a rope. I climb low 20's I suppose. Hit me up if you're keen to some climbing!

contact 0401780339

Cheers, Cam