Theres a little bit more stainless sticking out of the mighty waterworks some existing routes getting a retrobolt with others just having manky ones replaced. now theres a few more moderates accesible to the masses. Routes with a facelift include:

Five Four about grade 12-14ish (easy route on left)

Death unto Racists (left of the two routes, about grade 17)

Bastard Cancer (right of two routes, about grade 18)

theres still some work going on to replace some of the existing mank and should be finished this week, ready for the psyched afterwork masses thanks to daylight savings!

and cheers to tom and alex for putting up that new route! good job guys!!

simon

PS will update guide tommorrow!

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14 Comments

  1. Will Bartlett

    Cheers Simon, went and climbed Death unto racists and Bastard Cancer on Sunday, they climb really well with new bolts. Thanks

  2. Simon Young AUTHOR

    just a quick update/warning:

    rebolted Phantom Stone Thrower this arvo. someone has recently rebolted it with some hangers and dynabolts. these were removed and ive added u-bolts as they have a longer life span and are user friendly. are they really any better? yes. three out of the 4 new hanger were the thin PFH brand hangers. these hangers arent really good for a whole lot as they bend VERY easily. of the 3, all of them had been damaged by rockfall and been bent, one of them quite badly. to see this happen witin such a small timeframe(the bolts are fairly new) was quite shocking! so thanks to whoever went to the effort of caring, i do really appreciate that u did us all a service. this is just information to be passed on! if we are going to use hangers we should get into the habit of beefy ones, ive seen too many bent hangers before! if they do bend its only time till they need replacing!

    unfortuneatly the dynabolts arent usable anymore but ill happily buy some more for whoever installed them and gladly give u some replacement hangers. just call me on 0407356556.

    so guys summers pretty much upon us, daylight savings anyways so PSYCHE UP GUYS!!! theres a whole bunch of fresh new moderates at your doorstep so stop reading my drivel and go get your quickdraws ready!!!

    simon (smile)

    1. Gerry Narkowicz

      Cataract Gorge is alot nicer Simon. With daylight savings you could dash up to the Gorge and do a couple of climbs before nightfall. So Psyche up man and get up here. I know how much you love the Gorge

  3. Simon Young AUTHOR

    hi everyone, just letting u know the jobs done, all the shit bolts are gone and waterwaorks is now a great moderate venue!! get amongst it!!!

    (big grin)

    simon

    1. Haig Rice

      Nice work Simon... had no idea waterworks climbed so well... and an ever evolving crag - what more could we ask for? Cheers mate. H

  4. Nick Gust

    well done on the new bolts simon, good work. hopefully the cliff stays stuck together for a few years yet.
    did you see a pair of 5.10 piton shoes left at waterworks on tue 27th when you guys were there?
    i have lost the bloody things and thats the last place i had them.

    cheers
    Nick

  5. Simon Young AUTHOR

    so theres been even more choss coming down at waterworks. In particular a block has come out from Bastard Cancer. It came out quite close to the first bolt, leaving a small scar. questions have been raised as to the integrity of the rock the bolt is in now. Personally i think it is probably fine, but i guess if there's any doubt, there's no doubt. So i plan to chop the existing bolt, and add two to the start so you can stay out of the chossy corner by climbing on the face. There's still stacked blocks in there so be careful! Im say this to see if anyone has any objectives, this crag is a community asset so any objections?

    Also for the routes out on the left (17, 17, 12, 15?). Someone has done some awesome work to level out the base of all these routes. the great thing is they uncovered another metre of classic waterworks choss. the not so great thing is now the first bolt is way up in the sky. i think another bolt should go in the start of all these routes. I think that this crag is a one frequented by beginners, and people learning to lead-climb. So i think why not bolt it for the person climbing the grade. Any objections, comments? what do you think?

    1. Dave Humphries

      Both ideas seem good to me. Anything that makes the place safer and enjoyable for more climbers is OK by me.

    2. alex lewis

      Sounds reasonable. I'll do the 17 as i need to fix up the anchor as well

    3. Emlyn Jones

      Hi Simon, sounds good to me. Happy to donate some coin towards this. You want it done through CCT or should I just fix you up when I next see you?

  6. Jon Nermut

    Sounds fair enough.

    Reminds me that we need to come up with a process for the CCT to reimburse anchor replacement.
    How about this:

    • There is a sub committee to decide on proposals with a budget
    • Proposal for anchor replacement are put to the sub committee detailing the where, what and why of the replacement, can be before or after the fact
    • Receipts are needed ??
    • Anchor replacement must follow the CCT's Fixed Anchor Guidelines

    1. Simon Young AUTHOR

      that sounds good for larger re-bolting projects, but for something like this I think I'd rather just pay the few dollars a bolt and put them in without all the hassle!

      Reckon I'll head up there this evening to do what needs doing.

      1. Jon Nermut

        yeah agree for small stuff it needs to be easier than that, problem is also making it auditable

  7. Simon Young AUTHOR

    So the re-bolting fairies have been at it again. 5 new lower-offs have been installed at the crag and are ready for use! Remeber the large ring is where the rope goes, and please dont top-rope directly off the rings as it will reduce their life. Top-rope on your own hardware, then thread the chains, or thread them, but have the rope bearing on a screwgate on the top U-bolt.

    Most of them are on the RH side of the crag, with one on the 12 out right. Note that there are new rings with glue drying out right, look for the large yellow tag. These will be fine to climb on tommorow (Saturday) and if someone happens to be climbing there, please remove the tag!

    I would love to get some cash back for this work, how would people feel about $25 per lower-off compensation, being $125?