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<guide version="3"> <header id="1" access="Flange Buttress is accessed from the climbers'' carpark. Walk left along the Organ Pipes Track for 150m, arrivingto atthe asignposted signposted climbers'Flange Buttress track heading uphill to the right (GPS MTW030). The track heads up initially through bush, then follows a prominantprominent boulder lead tobefore reenterreentering the bush close to the base of the cliff near Bert''s Fear, an obvious body-width chimney. The track forks left and right just below here.<br/><br/>Taking the fork down hill to the left provides access to routes between Drama NefariousQueen and Bert's FearPrecarious. To access routes from Bert's Fear to Brown Madonna right of Precarious, follow the track uphill to the rightrighthand fork.<br/><br/>With the exception of Pooch Gully and Bert''s Fear, all routes are between 20m and 60m in length. Many of the routes finish on the big ledgeterrace at the top of Brown Madonna.<br/><br/>To descend climbs in this area, there are rap anchors on NefariousPrincess (25m20m), Just a Little Bit Longer (30m from rap-slingsInfluenza (28m), Nefarious (25m), Bert's Butter Menthol (28m), Chop Sticks the Sequel (35m), Neon God (2x 25m), After Midnight (50m), andPleasant BrownScreams Madonna (50m(2x 30m) and Brown Madonna (50m).<br/><br/>Bert''s Fear is, On Bended Kness and Scallywag are the only routeroutes on this buttress that continuesfinish toat the top of the Pipes. Descent for these is from the top of Bert''s Fear (GPS MTW170), requiresrequiring three abseils (1x 15m; 1x 35m 1x ) and a final rap down Brown Madonna (50m)." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="Flange Buttress is the compact reddish buttress situated between Central Buttress and the Columns. Pooch Gully flags the left LHhand end of Flange Buttress, while the deep chimney of Brown Madonna marks the RH end where it merges with the Columns.<br/><br/>Flange Buttress is a popular crag with a large number good quality sport and trad routes. It is often warmer here than other parts of the Pipes particularly on cool and wintry days. Abseil access off the crag is abundant and straight forward.<br/><br/>" name="Flange Buttress" rock="Dolerite faces and aretes,arêtes up to 60m. 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width="64" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="to Kacktus" arrowDirection="west"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>19</climb> <climb>18</climb> <climb>17</climb> <climb>15</climb> <climb>28</climb> <climb>14</climb> <climb>12</climb> <climb>10</climb> <climb>27</climb> <climb>7</climb> <climb>6</climb> </legend> </image> <climb extra="↓" grade="8" length="100m" name="Pooch Gully" number="1." stars="" id="25" fa="P. Sands, J. Spinks, Mar 1962 (assisted by a Golden Labrador in the lower stages).">Nice in December when the waratah are in flower. Follow the vegetated gully on the LH end of Flange Buttress all the way to the rap anchors at the top of Brown Madonna. The line can be varied at will.</climb> <climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="24" length="20m" name="Drama Queen" number="2." stars="" id="24" fa="S. Edwards, Jan 1997.">Straight up the nose of the minor buttress 10m L of Nefarious. A crack (natural gear) leads to 3 bolts up the arête.</climb> <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="25m" name=" Nefarious" number="3." stars="**" id="23" fa="R. Parkyn, Jan 1996.">A quality route for the sport-heads. The arête and face between Pooch Gully and Slippery Sensation, round to the L of the lowest point of Flange Buttress. The crux is towards the top (some of the bolts after this are not visible from below).</climb> <climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="25m" name="Slippery Sensation" number="4." stars="**" id="22" fa="S. Parsons, K. Bischoff, A. Wing, Apr 1981.">Provides a guaranteed workout. R of Nefarious and on the LH side of the Just a Little Bit Longer arête is a thin crack line splitting the steep south facing wall. Climb the RH crack for 7m, move into the LH one, and continue up into a scoop. Finger jam through the bulge and continue to just below a bush. Traverse L and around the arête to belay at the rap station at the top of Nefarious (25m rap).</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="30m" name="Slipper" stars="**" id="21" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Jan 1998." number="5.">Start as for Slippery Sensation. Climb the RH crack for 7m and instead of traversing L into the LH crack, go straight up the wall. Near the top traverse toward the bush on the L. Descend by abseil from tree.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Ring of Fire" number="6." stars="*" id="20" fa="M. Jackson, H. Jackson, Mar 1998.">Balancy test piece roughly following the arête (on its L face) between Just a Little Bit Longer and Slippery Sensation. A bombproof #3 RP in a groove on the arête protects the crux on an otherwise run-out climb. Continue up Just a Little Bit Longer after the spike on the arête is reached. Descend by abseil from rap slings on the LH of two trees.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="19" length="30m" name="Just A Little Bit Longer" number="7." stars="**" id="19" fa="S. Parsons, K. Bischoff, Apr 1981.">Thought provoking face climbing on previously loose terrain. The face route immediately R of the arête, about 5m L of the Bert's Fear chimney. Climb the thin line for 6m, trend slightly L and head for a spike on the arête (crux). Adequate gear placements can now be found where loose blocks have been removed and excellent RP's requiring thought to place are available the closer you get to the spike. Continue up on the other side of the arête for 2m, then move back R and follow the corner and face above to rap slings on the LH of two trees.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="30m" name="Spitters" number="8." stars="*" id="18" fa="D. Fife, S. Parsons, et al. Nov 1982.">A serious undertaking. The scary wall between Just a Little Bit Longer and Bert's Fear . Climb diagonally L from the bottom of Berts Fear on dubious face holds to a flake in the middle of the wall (marginal pro). Move up to a small roof, pull around this into a groove, and then hard moves lead to a corner crack. Continue up wall to belay as for Just a Little Bit Longer. Abseil from tree.<br/>Alt start: From the start of JALBL head up steep wall to a large cam slot, then R to ascend very loose flakes which improve with altitude.</climb> <climb extra="↓" grade="12/16" length="125m" name="Bert's Fear" number="9." stars="*" id="17" fa="U. Aurelli, D. Cox, J. Fairhall, Mar 1962. On Bended Knees finish: P. Robinson, T. McKenny, Feb 2012.">Body chimneys are not everybody's cup of tea, or are they? The distinct chimney 10m R of Just a Little Bit Longer (the lowest point of Flange Buttress), makes for an interesting day out. <br/>1. 25m. Climb the body-width chimney to belay on at a stance with threaded slings. <br/>2. 25m. Climb the even narrower chimney on the LH side of the buttress above to access the crest of the ridge. <br/>3. 30m. Follow the broken buttress to a tree and up the steeper wall above to the Brown Madonna terrace (with rap station at far RH end). <br/>4a. 45m. Original finish. Climb L and up the broken slabs and corner until one can move back right into a corner-chimney line. Follow this (past two U bolts) over enormous jammed flakes to two more U bolts on a leaning boulder 15m higher up. Descent: rap station at top (GPS MTW170) 15m to U bolts, 35m to Brown Madonna terrace; 50m to ground.<br/>4b. 45m 16. On Bended Knees variant. Climb L and up the broken slabs and corner, as for Bert’s Fear, to a hand crack splitting the steepening wall. Jam the hand crack, then traverse L, climb the finger crack just R of the nose to negotiate some piled blocks to reach a large ledge. Traverse up and R for 3m across the chimney to two U bolts beckoning an abseil or, for the true direttissimo, climb through the bush and over more blocks for 10m to the top of the column. Reverse back down to the bolts to abseil.</climb> <climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="40m" name="Precarious" number="10." stars="***" id="15" fa="A. Keller, M. Tillema, 1969. FFA: I. Baker, D. Bowman, Feb 1979.">Persistence always pays off and this route is no exception. Start 7m R of Bert's Fear at a shallow corner. <br/>1. 30m. Crux. Climb the corner past an awkward move to a ledge. Step R, organise your "pro" and climb up negotiating small slab to the next ledge. <br/>Abseil off here.<br/>2. 10m. Or climb back L and up the short corner to an abseil point further up.</climb> <climb id="28" stars="*" extra="Þ ↓" number="11." name="Alex's Thing" length="50m" grade="22" fa="Credited to A. Wilson, Mar 2004.">An unintentional ethical faux pas. The route provides an alternative 2nd pitch to the old classic. Originally a project of the credited first ascentionist, until his red tag went astray. It received two ascents by the unsuspecting N. Hancock and A. Williams. <br/>1. 30m. Climb the first pitch of Precarious to the belay. <br/>2. 20m. Crux. Start on the LH face of the arête for a few moves then trend L following a line of fixed hangers to the "Fiddlesticks" ledge. Ether abseil off the DBB at the top of the pillar at the RH end of the ledge, as for Chopsticks, or continue up Fiddlesticks to Brown Madonna rap station.</climb> <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="35m" name="Chop Sticks The Sequel" number="12." stars="**" id="14" fa="A. Williams, D. Gray, May 2004. First 8m were climbed by H. & M. Jackson, Jan 2000 (as Chop Sticks 18). ">Start at the base of Fiddlesticks and climb the L arête. Straightforward climbing past a couple of small to mid-size cams and a bolt leads to the Precarious ledge, followed by excellent arête climbing on good rock (one of the bolts is around on the RH face but stay on the arête). Take a large wire or 0.5 Camalot for higher up. DBB on final pillar.</climb> <climb extra="↓" grade="21 " length="30m" name="Stick To It " number="13." stars="" id="13" fa="D. Gray, May 2004.">Climb the first pitch of Fiddlesticks to about half height, just below small roof on the L wall. Traverse L, pull through roof, then follow thin cracks above.</climb> <image id="31" src="flange upper 2000.jpg" height="1715" width="1000" legend="true" legendTitle="Flange Buttress" legendx="13" legendy="11"> <drawing> <path id="26060" points="448,1495, 452,1397, 453,1254, 461,1143, 461,912, 468,796, 458,755, 433,738,belay 473,715, 483,609, 495,474, 505,323, 534,181, 596,93,belay" d="M448,1495C449.6,1455.8 451.18621994441605,1436.2241986791462 452,1397C452.81378005558395,1357.7758013208538 451.423680196438,1298.487247789416 453,1254C454.576319803562,1209.512752210584 459.9589943364858,1187.5029921152334 461,1143C462.0410056635142,1098.4970078847666 460.0624649746148,958.474950544096 461,912C461.9375350253852,865.525049455904 468.3225033881934,812.8776773154544 468,796C467.6774966118066,779.1223226845456 464.2480155925753,765.3538544105534 458,755C451.7519844074247,744.6461455894466 428.75387364282506,749.3230036191333 433,738C437.24612635717494,726.6769963808667 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Terry, G. Wyatt, 1967.">A classic, and being one of the relatively few quality easier climbs on the Pipes, it sees a lot of traffic. Good pro and a sunny aspect add to the attraction. Start 16m uphill and north of Bert's Fear, next to Neon God. Scramble up to the base of the corner containing twin cracks. <br/>1. 30m. Straight up the corner, belaying in the notch on the L. There is a rap station on top of the pillar at the RH end of the ledge, as for Chopsticks. <br/>2. 25m. Either climb the flakes on the wall and traverse R into the main crack line, or step directly into the line from near the belay. Follow the line until you either step around the arête to climb the LH wall or continue up the vee-groove to a large ledge. Very classy climbing. Rap off as for Brown Madona. Alternatively finish up On Bended Knees (45m) and descent as for Bert's Fear.</climb> <climb extra="18Þ" grade="25" length="50m" name="Neon God" number="15." stars="***" id="10" fa="S. Edwards, Jan 1997.">Simply irresistible! Join the mob. (Best done as 1 pitch)<br/>1. 25m 22. The popular 1st pitch follows the straight line of U-bolts on the wall to the R of Fiddlesticks. 10Þ + 2Þ Belay<br/>2. 25m 25. The second pitch is better, but is climbed less. Continue up the line past a thin and technical crux at about one-third height. Rap anchors. 7Þ + 2Þ Belay</climb> <climb id="27" stars="**" extra="Þ ↓" number="16." name="The Holy Road" length="25m" grade="23" fa="R. Parkyn, Jan 1997.">A less demanding RH alternative to the second pitch of Neon God. The crux is passing the second U-bolt.</climb> <text id="29" class="text">Most of Neon God has now been climbed on trad gear, the Kundalini Flow (26), by Adam Donoghue, Feb, 2013. It may be a profound mystical experience for some but it will certainly be a test of ability and mental strength to complete the line on marginal gear while studiously ignoring the presence of 20 seductive and beckoning bolts. <br/>Climb up the initial crack of Big Sticks and Beatings for 5m then join 'the vague trad weakness up the Neon God wall, looking for gear.' The last 6 pieces below the crux are # 2 and 3 RP's...... <br/> <br/></text> <climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="40m" name="Big Sticks and Beatings" stars="**" id="9" fa="N. Deka, S. Bunton, 1989." number="17.">A sustained excursion up the wall R of Neon God. Climb the thin crack, moving R at 10m to pass the thinnest section. Continue up the shallow corner, then traverse R to Digitalis and belay on ledge. Finish up Digitalis to the Brown Madonna rap station.</climb> <climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="40m" name="The Cuts" number="18." stars="**" id="8" fa="Face and Arête: D. Stevenson, J. Otlowski, 1996; Corner: H. & M. Jackson, Mar 1998.">A brilliant and intimidating line on the arête and face between Big Sticks and Beatings and Digitalis. Step L off the ledge at the start of Digitalis to head up face to arête at 15m. Continue up just R of arête via thin moves (crux), then run it out to the small ledge. Climb the corner above which merges with Digitalis (1/2 - 3/4 cam important) or alternatively traverse L along ledge, around arête to the bolt belay on Neon God.</climb> <climb extra="↓" grade="18" length="62m" name="Digitalis" number="19." stars="**" id="7" fa=" J. Moore, R. Williams. FFA: D. Bowman, M. Steane, Dec 1977. Direct Finish: P. Robinson, C. Hewer, K. Robinson, Dec. 2011.">A distinctive line with with some fine crack moves. Start at the first crack system around the arête L of Brown Madonna. Take cams up to fist size.<br/>1. 26m. Climb the crack through a small overlap and continue past large detached flake to belay on a ledge at base of a corner. <br/>2a. 36m. Original route. Bridge and jam the corner for 26m. When a jug behind a small flake on the R wall is reached, traverse boldly out L across the wall to the exposed arête. Continue straight up, trend L and then up past large loose flake to belay. <br/>2b. 34m. Direct Finish. Instead of traversing L, continue up the line. A couple of metres above the original route traverse, a step L can be made onto the arête. Return to the corner and climb it to the top. The Brown Madonna rap station is 10m to the right.</climb> <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="50m" name="After Midnight" number="20." stars="***" id="6" fa="S. Edwards, Jan 1995.">A modern classic that is consistent quality all the way. Demonstrates what can be done with school holidays and a nickel-cadmium power-pack. The arête between Brown Madonna and Digitalis. Fifteen quick draws required en-route plus something to clip into the abseil anchors.</climb> <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="29 " length="50m " name="Pleasant Screams Direct " number="21." stars="***" id="5" fa="S. Parsons, Mar 2007.">This variant is a single mega pitch that follows the line (and bolts) to the top. Start on the face and climb to a 'rest' about 2 bolts below the hanging belay. Once 'recovered' follow the line of bolts to the top, staying on the face.</climb> <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="26" length="55m" name="Pleasant Screams" number="22." stars="***" id="4" fa="S. Edwards, Dec 1996.">Tasmania's 'To Bolt or Not To Be'. The face L of Brown Madonna. <br/>1. 20m 25. Start at the bottom of the face moving towards the R arête after 10 m and back L to a hanging belay. Worth working in its own right. <br/>2. 35m 26. Continue up the amazing face above past another 12 U's, at 2/3 height move R into Brown Madonna before returning to the line and up to the anchors. It may be worth wearing a helmet for the flakes on the first pitch.</climb> <climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="49m" name="Brown Madonna" number="23." stars="***" id="3" fa="617.0,565.0, 626.0,447.0, 635.0,348.0, 614.0,305.0,belay 623.0,271.0, 640.0,215.0, 661.0,133.0,belay" d="M599.0,831.0C603.4,771.4 606.8,728.8 610.0,682.0C613.2,635.2 613.8,611.8 617.0,565.0C620.2,518.2 622.7,486.6 626.0,447.0C629.3,407.4 636.6,367.1 635.0,348.0C633.4,328.9 616.2,318.9 614.0,305.0C611.8,291.1 619.1,284.5 623.0,271.0C626.9,257.5 633.8,237.6 640.0,215.0C646.2,192.4 652.6,165.8 661.0,133.0" linkedTo="12"/> <rect style="white_text_on_solid_black" id="17539" width="106" height="22" x="832" y="15" text="Cairn Column Area" arrowDirection="south"/> <path id="66450" points="628.0,831.0, 639.0,697.0, 649.0,566.0, 661.0,480.0, 671.0,420.0,lower 670.0,336.0, 678.0,276.0, 684.0,243.0, 706.0,211.0,lower" d="M628.0,831.0C632.4,777.4 634.8,749.4 639.0,697.0C643.2,644.6 645.5,600.6 649.0,566.0C652.5,531.4 657.4,504.1 661.0,480.0C664.6,455.9 674.1,435.5 671.0,420.0C667.9,404.5 668.8,360.2 670.0,336.0C671.2,311.8 676.0,289.3 678.0,276.0C680.0,262.7 678.7,255.3 684.0,243.0C689.3,230.7 697.2,223.8 706.0,211.0" linkedTo="10"/> <path id="7301" points="" d=""/> <path id="38151" points="672.0,420.0, 715.0,376.0, 720.0,313.0,label 706.0,208.0," d="M672.0,420.0C689.2,402.4 704.9,398.5 715.0,376.0C725.1,353.5 721.4,338.2 720.0,313.0C718.6,287.8 711.9,220.8 706.0,208.0" linkedTo="27"/> <path id="80950" points="888.0,690.0, 859.0,562.0, 835.0,368.0, 811.0,141.0,lower" d="M888.0,690.0C876.4,638.8 867.5,613.8 859.0,562.0C850.5,510.2 843.9,445.7 835.0,368.0C826.1,290.3 820.6,231.8 811.0,141.0" linkedTo="6"/> <rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="16445" width="64" height="22" x="33" y="931" text="to Kacktus" arrowDirection="west"/> <path id="79976" points="752.0,225.0, 753.0,174.0, 750.0,138.0,label" d="M752.0,225.0C752.4,204.6 753.3,188.4 753.0,174.0C752.7,159.6 751.2,152.4 750.0,138.0" labelText="2b"/> <path id="22165" points="660.0,843.0, 662.0,672.0, 695.0,653.0, 709.0,601.0, 710.0,430.0, 671.0,423.0," d="M660.0,843.0C660.8,774.6 659.2,687.0 662.0,672.0C664.8,657.0 686.6,665.7 695.0,653.0C703.4,640.3 707.6,622.5 709.0,601.0C710.4,579.5 713.3,445.5 710.0,430.0C706.7,414.5 674.1,438.5 671.0,423.0" linkedTo="9"/> <path id="60004" points="758.0,845.0, 752.0,672.0, 750.0,588.0, 750.0,464.0, 741.0,373.0, 734.0,275.0, 731.0,235.0, 707.0,209.0," d="M758.0,845.0C755.6,775.8 753.0,705.6 752.0,672.0C751.0,638.4 750.3,621.6 750.0,588.0C749.7,554.4 751.5,500.5 750.0,464.0C748.5,427.5 744.1,409.4 741.0,373.0C737.9,336.6 735.2,291.0 734.0,275.0C732.8,259.0 736.4,248.1 731.0,235.0C725.6,221.9 712.9,221.8 707.0,209.0" linkedTo="8"/> <path id="88338" points="320.0,1149.0, 317.0,1106.0, 266.0,1058.0, 274.0,961.0, 288.0,824.0, 297.0,767.0, 313.0,699.0, 344.0,628.0,lower" d="M320.0,1149.0C318.8,1131.8 325.8,1120.8 317.0,1106.0C308.2,1091.2 274.0,1084.9 266.0,1058.0C258.0,1031.1 270.4,999.8 274.0,961.0C277.6,922.2 285.3,846.9 288.0,824.0C290.7,801.1 292.5,789.6 297.0,767.0C301.5,744.4 304.0,725.5 313.0,699.0C322.0,672.5 328.2,642.4 344.0,628.0" linkedTo="34"/> <path id="94784" points="784.0,743.0,label 783.0,570.0, 773.0,418.0,belay 760.0,341.0, 757.0,277.0, 748.0,219.0, 734.0,196.0, 690.0,194.0, 680.0,128.0,label" d="M784.0,743.0C783.6,673.8 785.1,630.9 783.0,570.0C780.9,509.1 776.1,449.1 773.0,418.0C769.9,386.9 762.9,366.5 760.0,341.0C757.1,315.5 759.3,300.4 757.0,277.0C754.7,253.6 750.9,229.4 748.0,219.0C745.1,208.6 743.9,200.3 734.0,196.0C724.1,191.7 695.9,206.8 690.0,194.0C684.1,181.2 684.0,154.4 680.0,128.0" linkedTo="7"/> <path id="62750" points="" d=""/> <path id="83824" points="" d=""/> <path id="74346" points="" d=""/> <path id="58313" points="" d=""/> <path id="4169" points="" d=""/> <path id="9927" points="" d=""/> <path id="77293" points="" d=""/> <path id="89624" points="" d=""/> <path id="67509" points="" d=""/> <path id="2187" points="" d=""/> <path id="72441" points="" d=""/> <path id="87577" points="" d=""/> <path id="55927" points="" d=""/> <path id="16604" points="" d=""/> <path id="86829" points="" d=""/> <path id="34435" points="" d=""/> <path id="80990" points="" d=""/> <path id="14504" points="" d=""/> <path id="89574" points="" d=""/> <path id="14628" points="" d=""/> <path id="63577" points="695.0,525.0," d="M695.0,525.0"/> <path id="7660" points="" d=""/> <path id="93498" points="754.0,228.0," d="M754.0,228.0"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>19</climb> <climb>18</climb> <climb>34</climb> <climb>17</climb> <climb>15</climb> <climb>28</climb> <climb>14</climb> <climb>12</climb> <climb>10</climb> <climb>27</climb> <climb>9</climb> <climb>8</climb> <climb>7</climb> <climb>6</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="25" name="Pooch Gully" number="1." extra="↓" grade="8" length="100m" stars="" fa="P. Sands, J. Spinks, Mar 1962 (assisted by a Golden Labrador in the lower stages).">Seldomly climbed nowadays, though reputedly nice in December when the waratahs are in flower! Climb the thickly vegetated gully at the left hand end of Flange Buttress to finish at the Brown Madonna terrace and rap station.</climb> <climb id="24" name="Drama Queen" number="2." extra="3Þ ↓" grade="24" length="20m" stars="" fa="S. Edwards, Jan 1997.">A mixed route right of Pooch Gully that ascends the nose of the minor buttress 10m left of Nefarious. A crack (natural gear) leads to 3 bolts up the arête.</climb> <climb id="32" name="Princess" number="3." extra="9Þ" grade="19" length="20m" stars="**" fa="R. Parkyn, J. Parkyn, Nov 2014. ">Very popular. Pleasant face climbing on the wall right of Drama Queen. There is a crux getting up the first part of the headwall.</climb> <climb id="35" stars="*" extra="14Þ" number="4." name="Influenza" length="28m" grade="21" fa="D. Humphries, J. Nermut, Dec 2015.">An enjoyably old-school climb replete with bridging, a jam or two, remnant vegetation, and a steep bit. Start as for Princess to the top of the first pillar then step across the ledge to the base of the line.<br/><br/>Note: This route is very well protected by natural pro and climbs beautifully in this style. Take a double rack of cams between .2 and .75 with a single #1 and #2, as well as various wires.</climb> <climb id="23" name=" Nefarious" number="5." extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="25m" stars="**" fa="R. Parkyn, Jan 1996.">A quality and aptly titled route that regularly sees struggling leaders log frequent flyer points. The arête and face just left of Slippery Sensation, round to the left of the lowest point on Flange Buttress. The crux is towards the top (some of the bolts after this are not visible from below).</climb> <climb id="22" name="Slippery Sensation" number="6." extra="↓" grade="20" length="25m" stars="**" fa="S. Parsons, K. Bischoff, A. Wing, Apr 1981.">Classic pipes face/crack climbing with good gear - best done during a dry spell. Right of Nefarious and left of Just a Little Bit Longer is a broken twin crack-line splitting the steep south facing wall. Climb the right hand crack for 7m before moving into the left hand crack-line and continuing up through a bulge (crux). Once at the conspicuous bush, traverse left for 3m and around the arête to belay at the rap station at the top of Nefarious (25m rap).</climb> <climb id="21" name="Slipper" number="7." extra="" grade="20" length="30m" stars="**" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Jan 1998.">Start as for Slippery Sensation. Climb the RH crack for 7m and instead of traversing L into the LH crack, go straight up the wall. Near the top traverse toward the bush on the L. Descend by abseil from tree.</climb> <climb id="20" name="Ring of Fire" number="8." extra="↓" grade="21" length="30m" stars="*" fa="M. Jackson, H. Jackson, Mar 1998.">A balancy 15m of independent climbing up the left face of the arête between Slipper and Just a Little Bit Longer. A bombproof #3 RP in a groove on the arête protects the crux on an otherwise run-out climb. Continue up Just a Little Bit Longer after the spike on the arête is reached. Descend from rap station as for Bert's Butter Menthol (28m).</climb> <climb id="19" name="Just A Little Bit Longer" number="9." extra="↓" grade="19" length="30m" stars="*" fa="S. Parsons, K. Bischoff, Apr 1981.">Thought provoking face climbing on previously loose terrain. This route starts up the face 2m right of the arête. Climb the thin line for 6m, trend left then up to a spike on the arête (crux). Adequate small cam placements are now found where loose blocks have been removed and RP's are available the closer you get to the spike. Continue up the left side of the arête for 3m, then step back around the arête. Follow the corner stepping right at the top and up the face to the rap anchors out right as for Bert's Butter Menthol (28m).</climb> <climb id="18" name="Spitters" number="10." extra="↓" grade="20" length="28m" stars="*" fa="D. Fife, S. Parsons, et al. Nov 1982.">A serious undertaking. The scary wall between Just a Little Bit Longer and Bert's Fear . Climb diagonally L from the bottom of Berts Fear on dubious face holds to a flake in the middle of the wall (marginal pro). Move up to a small roof, pull around this into a groove, and then hard moves lead to a corner crack. Continue up wall to belay as for Just a Little Bit Longer and Bert's Buttered Menthol. Abseil (28m).<br/>Alt start: From the start of JALBL head up steep wall to a large cam slot, then R to ascend very loose flakes which improve with altitude.</climb> <climb id="34" stars="*" extra="9Þ ↓" number="11." name="Bert’s Butter Menthol" length="25m" grade="22" fa="Originally climbed as trad by T. Smith (Buttered) and H. Jackson (left-hand exit, as Spittoon). ">Contentious. Originally done as a trad route then unknowingly bolted a week later. Climb diagonally leftwards from the bottom of Bert's Fear on thin holds (crux). From there climb the line left of the bolts. At the bulge it is possible to go right of the bolt and through the bulge on side-pulls (good fun but contrived, grade 23 with the bolts, grade 24 if you do it without the bolts). The direct (left) exit at the bulge was also climbed as a trad route (Spittoon) and can also be climbed on the bolts; this section is about grade 21. Descend via the rap station (28m).</climb> <climb id="17" name="Bert's Fear" number="12." extra="↓" grade="12" length="125m" stars="*" fa="U. Aurelli, D. Cox, J. Fairhall, Mar 1962">Body chimneys are not everybody's cup of tea, or are they? The distinct chimney 10m R of Just a Little Bit Longer, makes for an interesting day out. <br/>1. 25m. Climb the body-width chimney to belay on at a stance with threaded slings. <br/>2. 25m. Climb the even narrower chimney on the LH side of the buttress above to access the crest of the ridge. <br/>3. 30m. Follow the broken buttress to a tree and up the steeper wall above to the Brown Madonna terrace (with rap station at far RH end). <br/>4. 45m. Climb L and up the broken slabs and corner until one can move back right into a corner-chimney line. Follow this (past two U bolts) over enormous jammed flakes to two more U bolts on a leaning boulder 15m higher up. Descent: rap station at top (GPS MTW170) 15m to U bolts, 35m to Brown Madonna terrace; 50m to ground.</climb> <text id="38" class="text">The next two routes start from Brown Madonna terrace.</text> <climb id="37" stars="" extra="" number="13." name="Scallywag project" length="45m" grade="20?" fa="P. Robinson TR Feb. 2021">As Ranulph (the Fiennes) once said; bad, mad and dangerous. This project, top roped by Phil Robinson has yet to be led and is currently open to any takers. Starts at the Brown Madonna terrace and takes the wide crack system left of On Bended Knees. Best to rap into the start via the Bert’s Fear rap station located on the leaning boulder at the top of the final pitch.<br/><br/>From Brown Madonna terrace climb left and up the broken slabs to the base of a clean wide bottomless crack. Launch into this with gusto until a rest on a foothold on the R wall. Alternatively, traverse L into the crack from a few metres of easy climbing on the R. The crack narrows to hands and a loose flake within it. A somewhat slippery black lichen coated V-chimney follows for 8m to a couple of loose blocks hindering the exit. Take care. Follow cracks and large blocks to join Bert’s Fear 8m from the top. (Difficult to remove the loose blocks as any dislodged rock would likely land near the sports routes at the foot of Pooch Gully 80m below).</climb> <climb id="36" stars="*" extra="↓" number="14." name="On Bended Knees" length="45m" grade="16" fa="P. Robinson, T. McKenny, Feb 2012.">Starts from Brown Madonna terrace and takes a line up the wall to the left of the final pitch of Bert's Fear. Climb left and up the broken slabs and corner, as for Bert’s Fear, to a hand crack splitting the steepening wall. Jam the hand crack, then traverse left, climb the finger crack just right of the nose to negotiate some piled blocks to reach a large ledge. Traverse up and right for 3m across the chimney to the two U bolts on Bert's Fear, beckoning an abseil or, for the true directissima, climb on through the bush and over more blocks for 10m to the top of the column. Reverse back down to the bolts to abseil.</climb> <climb id="15" name="Precarious" number="15." extra="↓" grade="20" length="40m" stars="***" fa="A. Keller, M. Tillema, 1969. FFA: I. Baker, D. Bowman, Feb 1979.">Persistence always pays off and this route is no exception - take small gear. Start 7m right of Bert's Fear at a shallow corner. <br/>1. 30m. Crux. Climb the corner past an awkward move to a ledge. Step right, organise your "pro" and start heading up, negotiating the small runout slab to the next ledge. Abseil off here.<br/>2. 10m. Or climb back left and up the short corner to an abseil point further up.</climb> <climb id="28" name="Alex's Thing" number="16." extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="50m" stars="*" fa="Credited to A. Wilson, Mar 2004.">An unintentional ethical faux pas. The route provides an alternative 2nd pitch to the old classic. Originally a project of the credited first ascentionist, until his red tag went astray. It received two ascents by the unsuspecting N. Hancock and A. Williams. Climb either the first pitch of Precarious (20), or the first 10m of Chop Sticks (18) to the belay to start. Start on the LH face of the arête for a few moves then trend L following a line of fixed hangers to the "Fiddlesticks" ledge. Ether abseil off the DBB at the top of the pillar at the RH end of the ledge, as for Chopsticks, or continue up Fiddlesticks to Brown Madonna rap station.</climb> <climb id="14" name="Chop Sticks The Sequel" number="17." extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="35m" stars="**" fa="A. Williams, D. Gray, May 2004. First 8m were climbed by H. & M. Jackson, Jan 2000 (as Chop Sticks 18). ">Start at the base of Fiddlesticks and climb the L arête. Straightforward climbing past a couple of small to mid-size cams and a bolt leads to the Precarious ledge, followed by excellent arête climbing on good rock (one of the bolts is around on the RH face but stay on the arête). Take a large wire or 0.5 Camalot for higher up. DBB on final pillar.</climb> <climb id="13" name="Stick To It " number="18." extra="↓" grade="21 " length="30m" stars="" fa="D. Gray, May 2004.">Climb the first pitch of Fiddlesticks to about half height, just below small roof on the L wall. 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Terry, G. Wyatt, 1967.">Classy climbing that sees a lot of traffic. The most popular of the 'easy' routes on the Pipes. Good pro and a sunny aspect add to the attraction. Start 16m right and uphill of Bert's Fear, just left of Neon God. Scramble up to the ledge at the base of the big corner with twin cracks. <br/>1. 30m. Straight up the corner, belaying on a ledge in the notch on the left. The Chopsticks rap station is located on top of the pillar adjacent if only doing this pitch.<br/>2. 28m. Climb flakes up a short wall to the top of a small pillar then step across right into the main crack line (recommended). Alternatively, step directly into the crack line right of the belay. Follow the crack line through a bulge and up into a vee-groove. Either climb onto the left wall of the groove and step around the arête to finish up the wall above or continue straight up the vee-groove to belay on the Brown Madonna terrace. To access the rap station scramble a further 10m right across the terrace to rap off as for Brown Madonna (1 x 50m).</climb> <climb id="10" name="Neon God" number="20." extra="18Þ" grade="25" length="50m" stars="***" fa="S. Edwards, Jan 1997.">Simply irresistible! Join the mob. (Best done as one pitch)<br/>1. 25m 22. The popular first pitch follows the straight line of U-bolts up the wall 1.5m right of Fiddlesticks. 10Þ + 2Þ belay.<br/>2. 25m 25. The second pitch is better, but is climbed less. Continue up the line past a thin and technical crux at about one-third height. Rap anchors. 7Þ + 2Þ belay.</climb> <climb id="33" name="The Kundalini Flow" number="21." extra="" grade="26" length="50m" stars="**" fa="Adam Donoghue, Feb, 2013">Most of Neon God has now been climbed on trad gear, The Kundalini Flow. It may be a profound mystical experience for some but it will certainly be a test of ability and mental strength to complete the line on spaced gear while studiously ignoring the presence of 20 seductive and beckoning bolts. <br/>Climb up the initial crack of Big Sticks and Beatings for 5m then join 'the vague trad weakness up the Neon God wall, looking for gear.' The last 6 pieces below the crux are # 2 and 3 RP's......</climb> <climb id="27" name="The Holy Road" number="22." extra="Þ ↓" grade="23" length="25m" stars="**" fa="R. Parkyn, Jan 1997.">A less demanding RH alternative to the second pitch of Neon God. The crux is passing the second U-bolt.</climb> <climb id="9" name="Big Sticks and Beatings" number="23." extra="↓" grade="21" length="28m" stars="**" fa="N. Deka, S. Bunton, 1989.">A sustained and heady excursion up the wall right of Neon God. Take very small cams.<br/>1. 35m. Climb the thin crack, moving right at 10m to pass the thinnest section. Continue up the shallow corner, then more easily up flakes to the anchors on Neon God P1.</climb> <climb id="8" name="The Cuts" number="24." extra="2Þ" grade="21" length="48m" stars="**" fa="Originally called Blue Sky, the face and arête were climbed by D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski in 1996; the corner:was later added by H. & M. Jackson in Mar 1998 and the direct start and finish by H. Jackson, B. Maddison in Dec 2014.">A brilliant and intimidating line on the arête and face between Big Sticks and Beatings and Digitalis. It earns stars for the climbing and the position, not for the loose rock down low. Ascend the pedestal 3m right of Big Sticks and Beatings, climb up to small roof and reach up and around right to a jug. Continue up the steep and well protected flakes right of the arête, until angle eases and a shallow corner is reached (18m). Ascend the shallow corner right of arête with increasing difficulty to a ledge at 35m. Step back onto the arête and climb the face past 2 bolts (crux) to the Neon God anchors.</climb> <climb id="7" name="Digitalis" number="25." extra="↓" grade="18" length="62m" stars="**" fa=" J. Moore, R. Williams. FFA: D. Bowman, M. Steane, Dec 1977. Direct Finish: P. Robinson, C. Hewer, K. Robinson, Dec. 2011.">Fine climbing up a distinctive line. The more appealing left hand finish is recommended. Starts off the ledge in the corner 5m left of After Midnight. Take cams up to fist size.<br/>1. 26m. Up the corner, following the line through a small overlap (crux). Continue up past a large semi-detached flake to a belay ledge at the base of a corner. <br/>2a. 36m. Left hand finish. Bridge and jam the corner for 28m until positive holds on the left hand wall are reached. Step across onto the left wall and onto the arete. Hand traverse left across a horizontal ledge for 2m into the base of a shallow recess and follow this, negotiating an awkward final move onto the belay ledge.<br/>2b. 36m. Direct Finish. Instead of moving onto the left wall, follow the vegetated corner to the top. Descent: From the belay, scramble 10m right to the Brown Madonna terrace and rap station (50m).</climb> <climb id="6" name="After Midnight" number="26." extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="50m" stars="***" fa="S. Edwards, Jan 1995.">A modern classic that is consistent quality all the way. Demonstrates what can be done with school holidays and a nickel-cadmium power-pack. The arête between Brown Madonna and Digitalis. Fifteen quick draws required en-route plus something to clip into the abseil anchors.</climb> <climb id="4" name="Pleasant Screams" number="27." extra="Þ ↓" grade="26" length="55m" stars="***" fa="S. Edwards, Dec 1996.">Tasmania's 'To Bolt or Not To Be'. The face L of Brown Madonna. <br/>1. 20m 25. Start at the bottom of the face moving towards the R arête after 10 m and back L to a hanging belay. Worth working in its own right. <br/>2. 35m 26. Continue up the amazing face above past another 12 U's, at 2/3 height move R into Brown Madonna before returning to the line and up to the anchors. It may be worth wearing a helmet for the flakes on the first pitch.</climb> <climb id="5" name="Pleasant Screams Direct " number="28." extra="Þ ↓" grade="29 " length="50m " stars="***" fa="S. Parsons, Mar 2007.">This variant is a single mega pitch that follows the line (and bolts) to the top. Start on the face and climb to a 'rest' about 2 bolts below the hanging belay. Once 'recovered' follow the line of bolts to the top, staying on the face.<br/>Note: This variant has also been climbed on natural gear by Adam Donoghue in 2014. He pre-placed two pitons in thin cracks on the first 15m, and later removed them after the ascent.</climb> <climb id="3" name="Brown Madonna" number="29." extra="↓" grade="19" length="49m" stars="***" fa="D. Groom, J. Moore, D.Batten 1968 but long attributed to K. Carrigan, G. Child, Feb 1978., who renamed the chimney Brown Madonna">"Brown Lady will you marry me?" quoth the Jake. An elegant route with all the qualities of consistency, length of pitch and fantastic pro. Above the daunting chimney is a sustained crack and corner system of gob-smacking brilliance. (originally known as Black Madonna in the late 60s/early 70s). Climb the chimney to where it narrows before traversing out and up. Continue up the imposing crack line and blind corner to the largeterrace ledge and rap anchors (50m).</climb> </guide> |
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