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<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <guide guidestars="**" pagesize="500"><text class="heading1" new="false" number="null.">Duck Reach</text><text class="Editor" new="false"> <header number="null.">by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets.</text><text class="text">Foraccess="For access/general details, see the section on the Cataract Gorge (Zig-Zag Sunny Track).</text><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">DriveSide. Drive from town to Corin Street and then walk down to the Power House Museum or walk for 20 minutes upstream from the First Basin to this fantastic area.</text><text If you have a look at class="text">If you have a look at the mapthe map you'll see that there are crags that are marked that are not described in this guide. It's not because there aren't any climbs on them. They could well be fantastic. It's just that I don't know anything about them. So if you feel like a bit of an adventure head on up or check out Gerry's Guide to the South Esk.</text><image" newacknowledgement="false" noPrint="false" number="nullby Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets." srchistory="Launceston_Duck_Reach_Map.PNG" width intro="800">null</image><text classname="heading3Duck Reach" new="false" numberrock="null.">Sewerage Buttress</text><text class="text" Vertical dolerite buttresses, up to 25m high" sun="Afternoon sun" walk="5-20 mins"/> <image new="false" noPrint="false" number="null.">Access - The first buttress that you come to src="launceston south esk detail map.png" width=""></image><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Sewerage Buttress</text><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">Access - The first buttress that you come to 50m 3 levels each about 10m high.</text><climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Scutch">The thin crack on the bottom level on the right. McMahon, Johnson, 1995.</climb><text class="text">The next two climbs are on the middle level.</text><climb extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="Sinistra">On the downstream side is a small roof with a single eye-bolt beneath it. Up this to the crack above. McMahon, Johnson, 1995.</climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="8m" name="Up Your Cloaca">The slightly off-width corner 5m right of Sinistra. Johnson, McMahon, 1995.</climb><text class="text">The third tier has another two climbs on it.</text><climb extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Arson" new="false" number="" stars="">The left hand crack and corner. Selby, McMahon, 1995.</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="12m" name="Libido" stars=" * ">Two bolts up the right hand face to the thin crack. The huge block on the top at the left is loose so watch out! McMahon, Johnson, 1995.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="14m" name="Sex on a Stick">The off-width/chimney 3m right of Libido. McMahon (solo), 198?.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Bouzareah Buttress</text><text class="text">Access - best reached by following the footpad found at the upstream end of the car park down and across gully.</text><climb extra="2B" grade="20" length="10m" name="Break On Through" new="false" number="" stars="*" * value=">TheThe arete with 2 eye-bolts. Johnson, McMahon, 1995.</">The arete with 2 eye-bolts. Johnson, McMahon, 1995.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Bouzareah">The thin crack round the corner from Break On Through. Up to horizontal break then up the left trending diagonal to join the previous climb. McMahon, Johnson, 1995.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Skidrow Buttress</text><text class="text">Access - walk 100m up from the bridge to the first major buttress.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" number="null." src="duck reach - sawsea.png" width="">null</image><climb extra="5B" grade="25" length="12m" name="Powerhouse Arete" new="false" number="" stars=" ***" value="The left hand arete with 4 or 5 eye-bolts. Fisher, Johnson, 1996.">The left hand arete with 4 or 5 eye-bolts. Fisher, Johnson, 1996.</climb><climb extra="" grade="12" length=" " name="Chimney" new="false" number="" stars="">Chimney R of Powerhouse.</climb><climb extra="3B" grade="23" length="12m" name="The Joy of Specs" new="false" number="" stars=" **" value="3 eye-bolts to the crack. Fisher, Johnson, 1996.">3 eye-bolts to the crack. Fisher, Johnson, 1996.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length=" " name="Prison to Praise" new="false" number="" stars="">Start R of Joy of Specs at block. Climb crack, then left to join Joy. Narkowicz 1985.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length=" 10m" name="Sawsea" new="false" number="" stars="">Offwidth. McMahon, Schmidt, 1973.</climb><climb extra="" grade="11" length="10m" name="Sitting Bull" new="false" number="" stars="">Bridge to hand crack. McMahon, Schmidt, 1973.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="First Disadvantage" new="false" number="" stars="">The off-width crack. McMahon, Wells, 1989</climb><text class="text">The next two climbs start on the lower tier.</text><climb extra="" grade="22" length="8m" name="Short And Sweet">Thin crack splitting the face with a rusty old piton buried deep in the crack at about 2/3 height.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Skidrow" new="false" number="" stars="">The crack on the right of Short and Sweet which makes a nice route by continuing up to the main wall and then traversing right 3m on the horizontal break to join the widening crack past the blackberry.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="20m" name="Deathrow" new="false" number="" stars="" starsvalue="">StartingStarting around the corner from these routes on a small platform go up the thin twin cracks to the slab and then up to the peapod. Up the crack system above this to 2 eye-bolts and then up to DBB. Parsons, 1980's.</climb><text ">Starting around the corner from these routes on a small platform go up the thin twin cracks to the slab and then up to the peapod. Up the crack system above this to 2 eye-bolts and then up to DBB. Parsons, 1980's.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">John of Gaunt Buttress</text><climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Soho Crack" new="false" number="" stars="">Upstream 40m from the last buttress is a hand crack that goes up to the next tier.The next climbs are on this tier. McMahon 1973.</climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="The Number of the Beast#">The obvious hand crack on the left.</climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="12m" name="Two Good Hooters" new="false" number="" stars="">About 7m Left of Dagenham are two climbs with a U-bolt in them. This is the left most. Up past bolts, then tricky mantle to gain flake. Head left around the flake on gear. DBB, Bissett, Tierney, 1997.</climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="12m" name="Don't Step on the Bananas" stars=" ** ">The climb right of TGH. You can stick clip the bolt, although the first ascensionist didn't. Up to flake, then on to top. DBB. Tierney, Bisset, 1997.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="12m" name="Dagenham Smile" new="false" number="" stars="**">Thin crack and face climb 2m left of the off-width crack which runs the whole height of the cliff. McMahon 1996.</climb><climb extra="" grade="11" length=" " name="John of Gaunt" new="false" number="" stars="">The big wide corner. McMahon 1973.</climb><text class="text">The next section of cliff is broken in to four distinct levels. There are many natural lines on this area a lot of which have been climbed, once. Feel free to repeat them but take your secateurs and shovel.</text><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Traffic Fine Buttress</text><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">The next buttress upstream with well travelled and more continuous climbs. There is a DBB belay at the top of the next 3 routes.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" number="null." src="duck reach - traffic.png" width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="No Parking" stars=" *** ">Bridge up the chimney formed by this buttress and the bottom tier of the last one and then step right on to the large block. Climb the finger crack to the overlap and then continue up the hand crack above.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="20m" name="No Standing" new="false" number="" stars=" **" value=">VariousVarious extensions have been added to this climb. As it now stands it starts beneath the eye-bolt and avoiding the large block on the left continues up past three carrots to the arete and thin crack. One of the best climbs at the grade. Ng and Vincent, 1990.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="">Various extensions have been added to this climb. As it now stands it starts beneath the eye-bolt and avoiding the large block on the left continues up past three carrots to the arete and thin crack. One of the best climbs at the grade. Ng and Vincent, 1990.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Well Then Bruvvers" new="false" number="" stars="**">Start the climb 20m right of No Standing climb to the terrace at one-quarter height and then take the left hand jam crack to the top. Newell 1972.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length=" " name="Five Bells" new="false" number="" stars="">Chimney / crack, right up to the top of the summit boulder. Joe Friend 1975.</climb><climb extra="4B" grade="28" length="15m" name="Insh Allah" new="false" number="" stars="*" * ">Climb value="Climb the blunt arete left of Vamp past 4 FH to a DBB. Fisher, 2001.</climb><climb ">Climb the blunt arete left of Vamp past 4 FH to a DBB. Fisher, 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="35m" name="Vamp">Starts 20m up stream and around the corner from Free Parking. Climb the off hand width crack and corner to the tree. DBB. Then continue up the fist crack and then on to the pillar on top of the cliff.</climb><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">The next 2 climbs finish at the same DBB.</text><climb extra="3B" grade="23" length="23m" name="Sign of the Times" new="false" number="" stars="" stars="value="5m right of Vamp is a black face with 3 carrot bolts. Danny Ng, 1989.">5m right of Vamp is a black face with 3 carrot bolts. Danny Ng, 1989.</climb><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">On the blunt arete just right of SOTT is an unfinished climb with 2 carrots in it.</text><climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="23m" name="Orient Express" new="false" number="" stars=" **" ">The value="The climb with 4 carrots (which are difficult to clip if you don't have the right genetic predisposition) and a 2 or 2 1/2 friend. Danny Ng, 1989. The">The nextclimb 2with climbs4 startcarrots by(which scramblingare updifficult 20mto upstreamclip ofif theyou last climb todon't have the nextright tiergenetic beneathpredisposition) whereand a "cake slice" of rock has come away.</climb><climb2 or 2 1/2 friend. Danny Ng, 1989.</climb><text extraclass="text" gradenew="25" length="20m" name="Parsons Piece"false" newvalue="false" number="" stars="">Climb the crack beneath the roof, yes there is a genuine roof in Launceston, and then take the left hand crack out past the piton to the thin crack and face above. Parsons, Narkowicz. The crack going straight through the roof hasn't yet been done yet to my knowledge though it could well have been climbed by a naked Tibetan monk while on an astral journey to Tasmania.</climb><climbThe next 2 climbs start by scrambling up 20m upstream of the last climb to the next tier beneath where a "cake slice" of rock has come away.">The next 2 climbs start by scrambling up 20m upstream of the last climb to the next tier beneath where a "cake slice" of rock has come away.</text><climb extra="" grade="2025" length="20m" name="CakeParsons SlicePiece" new="false" new="false" number="" stars="">Climb upthe crack wherebeneath the slice of cake was. Smart, McMahon, 1979.</climb><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">10m up stream from the last climbs is a large block behind which are two cracks. DBB on top of Fantissimo.</text><climb roof, yes there is a genuine roof in Launceston, and then take the left hand crack out past the piton to the thin crack and face above. Parsons, Narkowicz. The crack going straight through the roof hasn't yet been done yet to my knowledge though it could well have been climbed by a naked Tibetan monk while on an astral journey to Tasmania.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1820" length="15m20m" name="FantissimoCake Slice" new="false" number="" stars="">The left hand hand-crack. Fantini 1980.</climb><climb>Climb up where the slice of cake was. Smart, McMahon, 1979.</climb><text extraclass="text" gradenew="19false" length="15m" name="Rags of Comfort" new="false" number="null." >10m up stars="">You guessed it,stream from the rightlast handclimbs crack.is McMahon 1973.</climb><text class="text">The tiers above the last two climbs may have some worthwhile climbs but I haven't done thema large block behind which are two cracks. DBB on top of Fantissimo.</text><climb extra="8B" grade="26/2718" length="25m15m" name="Fantissimo"Seize the Day new="false" new="false" number="" stars="***">Start>The byleft climbing Long Knife and then at the level of the 2nd FH traverse out to the thin crack in the middle of the face. Climb up past another 6 FH to the rap chains. Parsons, 1980's. The direct start with 1 FH has been done at about grade 27 by Al Williams.</climb><climbhand hand-crack. Fantini 1980.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Rags of Comfort" new="false" number="" stars="">You guessed it, the right hand crack. McMahon 1973.</climb><text extraclass="text">The grade="14" length="25m" name="Long Knife">The surprisingly delightful and enjoyable chimney.</climb><climbtiers above the last two climbs may have some worthwhile climbs but I haven't done them.</text><climb extra="8B" grade="2026/27" length="18m25m" name="CruxSeize andthe BeyondDay" starsnew="false" number="" * ">On the front of the block that forms the stars="***">Start by climbing Long Knife chimneyand isthen an off-width. Lewis, Closs, 1973.</climb><text class="text">The next two climbs are 40m past the endat the level of the 2nd FH traverse out to the thin crack in the middle of the majorface. buttressClimb andup arepast veryanother short6 evenFH forto the verticallyrap challenged.</text><climbchains. Parsons, 1980's. The direct start with 1 FH has been done at about grade 27 by Al Williams.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1714" length="6m25m" name="FreeLong WillKnife">Hand>The cracksurprisingly to off-width. McMahon, Selby, 1996delightful and enjoyable chimney.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2120" length="6m" 18m" name="OutTo ofthe Sight,Crux Outand of Mind">Amen. The thin crack on the right. Selby, McMahon, 1996.</climb><text class="heading3" new="falseBeyond" new="false" number="" stars="*" numbervalue="null.">Back in Black Buttress</text><text class="text">100m past the last climbs this small buttress is set back 50m from the river but worth the scramble up to it.</text><climbOn the front of the block that forms the Long Knife chimney is an off-width. Lewis, Closs, 1973.">On the front of the block that forms the Long Knife chimney is an off-width. Lewis, Closs, 1973.</climb><text extraclass="text" grade="10" length="8m" name="Possum Run">The left most line, a worthwhile descent route.</climb><climb>The next two climbs are 40m past the end of the major buttress and are very short even for the vertically challenged.</text><climb extra="" grade="2617" length="8m6m" name="A Long Way To The Top">The corner right of Possum Run with one FH. Looks like a corner but climbs like an Free Will">Hand crack to off-width. A great climb to put your gym junkie mates on and watch them burn rubber and finger tips. Narkowicz, 2002McMahon, Selby, 1996.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1921" length="8m6m" name="Back in Black" name="Out of Sight, stars=" ** ">TheOut of Mind">Amen. The thin crack lineon running up the face 5m right of Possum Run. McMahonSelby, SelbyMcMahon, 1996.</climb><climbclimb><text extraclass="heading3" gradenew="19" length="8m"false" number="null.">Back in Black Buttress</text><text nameclass="Highway to Hell">The thin crack around the corner from Back in Black. Narkowicz, Ling, Deka, Smith, McMahon.</climb><climb"text">100m past the last climbs this small buttress is set back 50m from the river but worth the scramble up to it.</text><climb extra="" grade="1610" length="6m8m" name="TNTPossum Run">The dualleft crack system in the corner. Selby, Wardlow, Fox, Nichols, 1996.</climb><text most line, a worthwhile descent route.</climb><climb extra="" classgrade="heading326" newlength="false8m" numbername="null.">Nebraska Buttress</text><text class="textA Long Way To The Top">The nextcorner buttressright isof anotherPossum 100mRun upstreamwith almost opposite Pubic Flash.</text><climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Dancing With Maria" new="false" number="" stars="">Climb up on to ledge and then up crack and slightly overhanging corner. McMahon 1983one FH. Looks like a corner but climbs like an off-width. A great climb to put your gym junkie mates on and watch them burn rubber and finger tips. Narkowicz, 2002.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1619" length="10m8m" name="NewBack Jerseyin TurnpikeBlack" newstars="false" number="" stars="**">Nice hand jamming. McMahon 1983 ** ">The thin crack line running up the face 5m right of Possum Run. McMahon, Selby, 1996.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1719" length="10m" name="County Line" new="false"8m" numbername="" Highway stars="**">Delicate face climbing up a thin crack line in the corner. Quite excellent. Neale Smith 1983to Hell">The thin crack around the corner from Back in Black. Narkowicz, Ling, Deka, Smith, McMahon.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1916" length="8m6m" name="ProctologistTNT">Climb>The thedual crack system in the corner. 15mSelby, upstreamWardlow, from the last wall. SelbyFox, Nichols, 1996.</climb><climbclimb><text extraclass="heading3" gradenew="21" length="10m" name="Jonestown Flood"false" newnumber="falsenull." number="">Nebraska Buttress</text><text starsclass="text">5m>The onnext from thebuttress Proctologist is aanother thin100m crackupstream climbalmost thisopposite to a ledge and then up corner to exit out left under small roofs. McMahon 1983Pubic Flash.</climb><climbtext><climb extra="" grade="1518" length=" 10m" name="AtlanticDancing With CityMaria" new="false" number="" numberstars="" stars="">Arete to R. Neale Smith >Climb up on to ledge and then up crack and slightly overhanging corner. McMahon 1983.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length=" 10m" name="Doodle" new="falseNew Jersey Turnpike" new="false" number="" stars="**">Corner>Nice round from Jonestown Floodhand jamming. McMahon 1983.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2017" length=" 10m" name="NebraskaCounty Line" new="false" number="" stars="">Fused corner with tree. McMahon**">Delicate face climbing up a thin crack line in the corner. Quite excellent. Neale Smith 1983.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1619" length=" " name="Blood on Blood" new="false"8m" numbername="Proctologist" >Climb the crack in the corner 15m upstream from stars="">Offwidth past roofs. Neale Smith 1983the last wall. Selby, 1996.</climb><textclimb><climb classextra="text">Between here and Ramona buttress is a lot of broken cliff line most of it pawed by Narkowicz, McMahon and the likes. A lot of the obvious natural lines have been done and quite a few of the bolted ones. Some of them are probably worth repeating. Go and get the Narkowicz Guide To The Cosmos to be fully enlightened.</text><climbgrade="21" length="10m" name="Jonestown Flood" new="false" number="" stars="">5m on from the Proctologist is a thin crack climb this to a ledge and then up corner to exit out left under small roofs. McMahon 1983.</climb><climb extra="4B" grade="2415" length=" " name="TheAtlantic Imitation of ChristCity" new="false" newnumber="false" numberstars="" >Arete to R. Neale Smith 1983.</climb><climb stars="*">Bolted arete directly underneath furthest upstream powerline. Narkowicz 2002.</climb><text class="heading3extra="" grade="16" length=" " name="Doodle" new="false" number="null.">Ramona</text><text classnumber="text">Access - walk upstream for about 800m from the Duck Reach Cliffs and on the same side. The buttress is visible from Duck Reach suspension bridge as the river bends around to the right.</text><climbstars="">Corner round from Jonestown Flood. McMahon 1983.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2320" length="10m " name="Louis the KingNebraska" new="false" starsnumber="" *** ">Fine crack and arete climbing on the small buttress facing the river 50m downstream from The Stingstars="">Fused corner with tree. McMahon 1983.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2216" length="12m " name="MacBlood Theon FingerBlood">Climb the thin twin cracks 4m right of Louis the King for 3m then slightly right before moving back left to the main hand crack.</climb><climb new="false" number="" stars="">Offwidth past roofs. Neale Smith 1983.</climb><text extraclass="text">Between grade="18" length="12m" name="Temporary Like Achilles">10m upstream from Mac The Finger is a black corner with a crack on both sides. Climb either or both of these. McMahon, Ling, Smith, 1980.</climb><climbhere and Ramona buttress is a lot of broken cliff line most of it pawed by Narkowicz, McMahon and the likes. A lot of the obvious natural lines have been done and quite a few of the bolted ones. Some of them are probably worth repeating. Go and get the Narkowicz Guide To The Cosmos to be fully enlightened.</text><climb extra="4B" grade="1924" length="12m " name="SmithThe andImitation Wessonof BluesChrist" starsnew=" * ">The left trending flake/undercling that leads to the straight crack above. Colyvan, Smith, 1981.</climb><climbfalse" number="" stars="*">Bolted arete directly underneath furthest upstream powerline. Narkowicz 2002.</climb><text extraclass="heading3" gradenew="23false" lengthnumber="25m" name="The Sting"null.">Ramona</text><text starsclass=" *** ">An excellent climb and probably Mick Lings most lasting contribution. Across the gully/chimney from the previous climbs is a 25m pillar split by an off-width at the top. Climb from the base of this to the roof and out left to stand on the ledge and clip the fixed hanger. Up a thin crack past an eye-bolt to a horizontal break. Briefly up off-width before escaping out left in diagonal jamb crack. DBB. Mick Ling<text">Access - walk upstream for about 800m from the Duck Reach Cliffs and on the same side. The buttress is visible from Duck Reach suspension bridge as the river bends around to the right.</text><climb extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Louis the King" stars=" *** ">Fine crack and arete climbing on the small buttress facing the river 50m downstream from The Sting.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2422" length="25m12m" name="Mac The Burning">Start up The Sting and clip the first bolt then head right up past 4 carrots. A bit crumbly and contrived. Not one of Danny's best efforts. Same DBB as The Sting. Danny NgFinger">Climb the thin twin cracks 4m right of Louis the King for 3m then slightly right before moving back left to the main hand crack.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="12m" name="Temporary Like Achilles">10m upstream from Mac The Finger is a black corner with a crack on both sides. Climb either or both of these. McMahon, Ling, Smith, 1980.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1719" length="20m12m" name="RamonaSmith and Wesson Blues" stars=" *** ">Climb>The theleft cornertrending 10mflake/undercling upstreamthat from The Sting and then continue up the handleads to the straight crack above. DBBColyvan, Smith, 1981.</climb><textclimb><climb classextra="heading3" newgrade="false23" number="null.">Headbanger Buttress</text><textlength="25m" name="The Sting" classstars="text">You can get to this buttress by crossing the river and bashing up the hill*** ">An excellent climb and probably Mick Lings most lasting contribution. Across the gully/chimney from the previous climbs Duckis Reacha track25m justpillar pastsplit markerby 9. Better is to come inan off-width at the top. Climb from the Hoobase Hooof Hutthis sideto of the gorge.roof Onand theout Duckleft Reachto Roadstand toon the Hooledge Hoo hut, 1.2 km from the cattle grid, isand clip the fixed hanger. Up a sign for the Snake Gully track. Park and follow the track downhill past the horse jumps till you get to a junction with a 4wd track. Turn right, which will take you to the Hoo Hoo hut, the Duck Reach Power station and the Rabbit Trap Buttresses. 40m from the junction, at a slight crest, go left and into the bush. You should pick a cairn fairly soon (for some reason Parks has taken to removing all cairns visible from the track). Follow these along the faint ridge and then down the hill for about 150m. You should emerge either at the top of the buttress or at the bottom of it on the upstream end.</text><climbthin crack past an eye-bolt to a horizontal break. Briefly up off-width before escaping out left in diagonal jamb crack. DBB. Mick Ling</climb><climb extra="" grade="24" length="25m" name="The Burning">Start up The Sting and clip the first bolt then head right up past 4 carrots. A bit crumbly and contrived. Not one of Danny's best efforts. Same DBB as The Sting. Danny Ng.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Ramona" stars=" *** ">Climb the corner 10m upstream from The Sting and then continue up the hand crack above. DBB.</climb><text extraclass="heading3" gradenew="18" length="10m"false" namenumber="Devil's Grip the Iron Fist">The broken hand crack above the cairn on the left of the buttress. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="The Mob Rules" stars=" * ">The thin looking corner/crack 1m right of DGTIF. Good climbing. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Die Young" stars=" ** ">The corner right of TMR. Superb bridging with small wires. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="14m" name="Paranoid">The large hand crack on the upstream facing wall right of DY. Climb this to the ledge (grade 16), then finish up Impale me on the Horns of Death. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="14m" name="Impale Me on the Horns of Death" stars=" * ">The great looking twin cracks on the face around the arete and right of Paranoia. Some loose sounding flakes can be disconcerting but worth doing anyway. Up to the ledge, then again on to the top. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climbnull.">Headbanger Buttress</text><text class="text">You can get to this buttress by crossing the river and bashing up the hill from the Duck Reach track just past marker 9. Better is to come in from the Hoo Hoo Hut side of the gorge. On the Duck Reach Road to the Hoo Hoo hut, 1.2 km from the cattle grid, is a sign for the Snake Gully track. Park and follow the track downhill past the horse jumps till you get to a junction with a 4wd track. Turn right, which will take you to the Hoo Hoo hut, the Duck Reach Power station and the Rabbit Trap Buttresses. 40m from the junction, at a slight crest, go left and into the bush. You should pick a cairn fairly soon (for some reason Parks has taken to removing all cairns visible from the track). Follow these along the faint ridge and then down the hill for about 150m. You should emerge either at the top of the buttress or at the bottom of it on the upstream end.</text><climb extra="" grade="18" length="6m10m" name="AttackDevil's ofGrip the MadIron AxemanFist">The crackbroken righthand ofcrack the above climb.the Climbcairn thison to the topleft of the boulder. It's pretty short, but you can then climb into the climb described belowbuttress. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1820" length="10m" name="KillThe WithMob PowerRules" stars=" * ">The crackthin aroundlooking thecorner/crack corner1m andright upof hillDGTIF. fromGood AOTMAclimbing. TierneyNarkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2022" length="8m"10m" name="Die Young" namestars="Depressed ** Fracture">The corner right nextof lineTMR. uphillSuperb andbridging rightwith ofsmall KWPwires. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><textclimb><climb classextra="" grade="heading220" newlength="false14m" numbername="null.Paranoid">Rabbit>The Traplarge Area</text><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">A great area with morning sun and afternoon shade so good climbing is possible in summer and winter. Access- see map. To get to the Hoo Hoo Hut drive from the Old Kings bridge at the bottom of the Gorge up Trevallyn Rd./Gorge Rd and follow the signs to Trevallyn State Reserve. Once in the reserve take a left across a cattle grid on to Duck Reach Rd and follow it to the end. Park there and then take the walk to the Duck Reach Power Station. Instead of walking down the stairs to the power station continue along the track and down the hill. Cross a dry (generally) rocky creek bed and continue up the hill on the other side. At the crest of the hill turn 90 right and walk about 80m. This should bring you to the top of the Old Timers Buttresses. All up it's about 15 minutes walk.</text><imagehand crack on the upstream facing wall right of DY. Climb this to the ledge (grade 16), then finish up Impale me on the Horns of Death. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="14m" name="Impale Me on the Horns of Death" stars=" * ">The great looking twin cracks on the face around the arete and right of Paranoia. Some loose sounding flakes can be disconcerting but worth doing anyway. Up to the ledge, then again on to the top. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="6m" name="Attack of the Mad Axeman">The crack right of the above climb. Climb this to the top of the boulder. It's pretty short, but you can then climb into the climb described below. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb newextra="false" noPrintgrade="false18" numberlength="null.10m" name="Kill src="Launceston_Rabbit_Mud_Map.PNGWith Power" widthstars="600">null</image><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">K.Archer Buttress</text><climb extra="" * ">The crack around the corner and up hill from AOTMA. Tierney, 1985.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="9m8m" name="EnjoDepressed Fracture">The leftnext mostline crackuphill onand theright K.Archerof ButtressKWP. FoxNarkowicz, Tiz, 20021985.</climb><climbclimb><text extraclass="heading2" gradenew="19" length="9mfalse" namenumber="If I Were A Border Collie I Could Go For A Girl Like You">4m right of Enjo. DeCesare, Kearnes, 2002.</climb><climbnull.">Rabbit Trap Area</text><text class="text" new="false" extranumber="null." grade="19" length="10m" name="Voyeur">The last obvious crack of the buttress. Webb and the little girl, 2002.</climb><text class="text">The Dr Seuss Pinnacle contains the following climbs and has a DBB on top.</text><climb extra="" grade="18" length="8m" name="Green Eggs and Ham" stars=" * ">The large hand crack on the upstream face of the pinnacle. Climbs better than it looks. Fox, Tiz, 2002.</climb><climb extra="" grade="24" length="13m" name="Sam I Am" stars=" * ">Start on the bottom tier and climb up to ledge via 2 FH then fire up the pillar past 3 more FH to DBB. Fox, Tiz, 2002.</climb><text>A great area with morning sun and afternoon shade so good climbing is possible in summer and winter. Access- see map. To get to the Hoo Hoo Hut drive from the Old Kings bridge at the bottom of the Gorge up Trevallyn Rd./Gorge Rd and follow the signs to Trevallyn State Reserve. Once in the reserve take a left across a cattle grid on to Duck Reach Rd and follow it to the end. Park there and then take the walk to the Duck Reach Power Station. Instead of walking down the stairs to the power station continue along the track and down the hill. Cross a dry (generally) rocky creek bed and continue up the hill on the other side. At the crest of the hill turn 90 right and walk about 80m. This should bring you to the top of the Old Timers Buttresses. All up it's about 15 minutes walk.</text><image classnew="heading3false" newnoPrint="false" number="null." numbersrc="nullrabbit trap map.png">Pissing On Trees</text><text class width="text"></image><text newclass="heading3" new="false" number="null.">See Map>K.Archer Either walk in directly from the 4WD track or walk above the cliffs from the Old Timers Buttresses. The first 4 climbs are set on a slightly separate part of the cliff.</text><climbButtress</text><climb extra="" grade="20" length="9m" name="Enjo">The left most crack on the K.Archer Buttress. Fox, Tiz, 2002.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="7m9m" name="Painful Addiction">Up to ledge then past 2 FH on the left most arête of the buttress. TizIf I Were A Border Collie I Could Go For A Girl Like You">4m right of Enjo. DeCesare, Kearnes, 20012002.</climb><climb extra="" grade="24/2519" length="8m10m" name="GerryVoyeur">The Doeslast Dallas" obvious crack of the buttress. Webb and the stars=" ** ">Give yourself the full grade if you place gear as you go. The thin crack 3m right of Painful Addiction. Bissett, Kearnes, 2001.</climb><climblittle girl, 2002.</climb><text class="text">The Dr Seuss Pinnacle contains the following climbs and has a DBB on top.</text><climb extra="" grade="2218" length="8m" name="SexGreen Eggs and CandyHam" stars=" * ">This time>The large hand crack on the actionupstream goesface upof pastthe 3 FHpinnacle. 2mClimbs rightbetter ofthan Gerryit Does Dallaslooks. Fox, KearnesTiz, 20012002.</climb><climb extra="5B" grade="2124" length="8m13m" name="SmallSam Butt,I Perfectly FormedAm" new="false" number="" stars="*" * ">Now value="Start on the truthbottom istier out.and Boulderclimb up pastto ledge thevia single2 FH 2mthen rightfire ofup Sexthe andpillar Candypast to3 themore thinFH crackto aboveDBB. KearnesFox, Tiz, 2001.</climb><text class="text">The rest of these climbs are back on the main buttress.</text><climb2002.">Start on the bottom tier and climb up to ledge via 2 FH then fire up the pillar past 3 more FH to DBB. Fox, Tiz, 2002.</climb><text extraclass="heading3" gradenew="17false" length="10m number="null.">Pissing On Trees</text><text class="text" namenew="Machine Gum Fellatio">The left most crack of the buttress. Follow your nose to the top. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb"false" number="null.">See Map. Either walk in directly from the 4WD track or walk above the cliffs from the Old Timers Buttresses. The first 4 climbs are set on a slightly separate part of the cliff.</text><climb extra="Þ" grade="2519" length="12m7m" name="Howling at the MoonPainful Addiction" starsnew="false" *** ">Up past 3 FH to the crack. At the top move right past another FH to finish at a DBB. Excellent climbing but the 2nd FH can be hard to clip so it is probably better to stick clip it and not bother with the first one at all. Fox, Tiznumber="" stars="" value="Up to ledge then past 2 FH on the left most arête of the buttress. Tiz, Kearnes, 2001.">Up to ledge then past 2 FH on the left most arête of the buttress. Tiz, Kearnes, 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2224/25" length="11m8m" name="PissingGerry inDoes the RainDallas" stars=" ** ">Up>Give easyyourself flakethe pastfull 3grade FHif thenyou toplace crackgear aboveas withyou ago. FHThe inthin thecrack off-width3m atright theof top.Painful DBBAddiction. FoxBissett, DeCesareKearnes, 2001.</climb><climb extra="3B" grade="2322" length="10m8m" name="PoorSex Kevinand UrinalCandy" new="false" number="" stars=" ** ">The blunt arête 5m*" value="This time the action goes up past 3 FH. 2m right of Pissing in the Rain. Up past 4 bolts and a 1.5 cam in the horizontal break. DBBGerry Does Dallas. Fox, Kearnes, 2001.">This time the action goes up past 3 FH. 2m right of Gerry Does Dallas. Fox, BissettKearnes, 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2021" length="9m8m" name="Brompton Oratory">On the rightmost end of the cliff. Boulder up to horizontal break. Up thin crack above which gradually widens. Same DBB as PKU. DeCesare, HaasSmall Butt, Perfectly Formed" stars=" * ">Now the truth is out. Boulder up past the single FH 2m right of Sex and Candy to the thin crack above. Kearnes, Tiz, 2001.</climb><text class="text">When>The rest youof lookthese fromclimbs theare topback ofon the Pissing on Trees Buttress towards the river there is a pillar 30m away and slightly down stream. Either rap from the Pissing in the Rain belay down over the vegetation or scramble down over it to the front of this pinnacle for the next climb.</text><climbmain buttress.</text><climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Machine Gum Fellatio">The left most crack of the buttress. Follow your nose to the top. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="2425" length="12m" name="Halcyon DazeHowling at the Moon" new="false" number="" stars=" *** ">The superb orange corner, up" value="Up past 4FH3 FH to athe ledge. Stepcrack. At the top move right up past 2 moreanother FH to finish at a DBB. Fox,Excellent Bissett, 2001.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Rabbit Trap Buttress Proper</text><text class="text">See map. Named after the old rabbit trap that should still be at the top of the buttress.</text><climb extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Black Humour">Boulder up the left most face of the cliff past a FH then up the crack system above to a DBB. Nice climbing but marred by the fact that it is split into 3 tiers. DBB. Originally done by Narkowicz with-out the bolt or the belay.</climb><climbclimbing but the 2nd FH can be hard to clip so it is probably better to stick clip it and not bother with the first one at all. Fox, Tiz, 2001.">Up past 3 FH to the crack. At the top move right past another FH to finish at a DBB. Excellent climbing but the 2nd FH can be hard to clip so it is probably better to stick clip it and not bother with the first one at all. Fox, Tiz, 2001.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="11m" name="Pissing in the Rain" extranew="false" gradenumber="18" lengthstars="10m*" name="Pilgerman">Uninspiring looking climbing up the cracks 3m right of Black Humour. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="12m" name="Anal Fist Fuck Four" value="Up easy flake past 3 FH then to crack above with a FH in the off-width at the top. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.">Up easy flake past 3 FH then to crack above with a FH in the off-width at the top. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="10m" name="Poor Kevin Urinal" new="false" number="" stars=" ** ">Commonly abreviated to AFFF for some reason. How Bob and Gerry missed this on their original sortie to this cliff I don't know so it was named in memory of those times. The awe inspiring off-width with 3 FH. Has a DBB on top but don't pull your rope down from here or it will jam. Fox, DeCesarevalue="The blunt arête 5m right of Pissing in the Rain. Up past 4 bolts and a 1.5 cam in the horizontal break. DBB. Fox, Bissett, 2001.">The blunt arête 5m right of Pissing in the Rain. Up past 4 bolts and a 1.5 cam in the horizontal break. DBB. Fox, Bissett, 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2120" length="12m" name="Pets Prefer Purple9m" starsname="Brompton *** ">One of Oratory">On the bestrightmost climbsend inof the gorgecliff. 5Boulder boltsup goingto uphorizontal thebreak. arêteUp 3mthin rightcrack ofabove AFFFwhich togradually finishwidens. atSame DBB as PKU. DeCesare, KearnesHaas, 2001.</climb><climbclimb><text extraclass="text">When grade="20" length="10m" name="Road to Moonarie">8m right of PPP is another arête. Up past 3 bolts and some cams in the horizontal break. DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climbyou look from the top of the Pissing on Trees Buttress towards the river there is a pillar 30m away and slightly down stream. Either rap from the Pissing in the Rain belay down over the vegetation or scramble down over it to the front of this pinnacle for the next climb.</text><climb extra="6B" grade="2024" length="10m"12m" name="Halcyon Daze" namenew="Tulip Variant">An excellent variant finish to RTM. At the horizontal break move left to finish up the crack. Tiz, Kearnes, 2001.</climb><text class="text">Half way between Rabbit Trap Buttress Proper and the Old Timers Buttresses is a small cliff with the next two climbs. Access is by walking along the bottom either from Rabbit Trap or Old Timers.</text><climbfalse" number="" stars="***" value="The superb orange corner, up past 4FH to a ledge. Step right up past 2 more FH to a DBB. Fox, Bissett, 2001.">The superb orange corner, up past 4FH to a ledge. Step right up past 2 more FH to a DBB. Fox, Bissett, 2001.</climb><text extraclass="heading3" gradenew="17" length="8mfalse" namenumber="Chilli Jam">Climb the orange corner on (shock, horror) natural gear. Don't worry there is a DBB on top. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climbnull.">Rabbit Trap Buttress Proper</text><text class="text">See map. Named after the old rabbit trap that should still be at the top of the buttress.</text><climb extra="" grade="1720" length="9m" name="GBH with a Deadly Possum10m" starsname="Black ** ">UpHumour">Boulder up the faceleft 2mmost rightface of Chillithe Jamcliff past 2a FH and some cams then up the crack system above to a DBB. Fox, Nichols, 2001.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Old Timers Buttresses</text><textNice climbing but marred by the fact that it is split into 3 tiers. DBB. Originally done by Narkowicz with-out the bolt or the belay.</climb><climb classextra="text">If you take the turn off from the 4wd track on the crest of the hill you should find yourself on top of Possumlea which has a DBB on top of it.</text><climbgrade="18" length="10m" name="Pilgerman">Uninspiring looking climbing up the cracks 3m right of Black Humour. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="2120" length="8m12m" name="OverAnal theFist TopFuck with JimFour" new="false" number="" stars=" ** ">20m upstream from Possumlea is a separate pillar. Climb the left arête of this past 3 eye bolts to a DBB. Fox, Sharman, 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="9m" name="Possumlea">2 bolts up the blunt arête. Stick clip the first. DBB" value="Commonly abreviated to AFFF for some reason. How Bob and Gerry missed this on their original sortie to this cliff I don't know so it was named in memory of those times. The awe inspiring off-width with 3 FH. Has a DBB on top but don't pull your rope down from here or it will jam. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="9m" name="Mr Natural" stars=" * ">Around the corner from Possumlea is another natural gear route. What is the world coming to! However it does have a DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001<">Commonly abreviated to AFFF for some reason. How Bob and Gerry missed this on their original sortie to this cliff I don't know so it was named in memory of those times. The awe inspiring off-width with 3 FH. Has a DBB on top but don't pull your rope down from here or it will jam. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb extra="5B" grade="2021" length="8m12m" name="Pets Prefer Purple" name="Shoes, Glue and Almost No Can Donew="false" number="" stars="***" starsvalue=" * ">The face onOne of the best climbs in the gorge. 5 bolts going up the pillararête 3m right of Mr Natural. 2 eye bolts and some cams. Sharman, Fox AFFF to finish at DBB. DeCesare, Kearnes, 2001.">One of the best climbs in the gorge. 5 bolts going up the arête 3m right of AFFF to finish at DBB. DeCesare, Kearnes, 2001.</climb><climb extra="3B" grade="1620" length="9m10m" name="NotRoad Just a Pretty Faceto Moonarie" starsnew="false" * ">Ain't that the truth. The slabby face with 2 bolts up the pillar 10m right of SGAANCDnumber="" stars="" value="8m right of PPP is another arête. Up past 3 bolts and some cams in the horizontal break. DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, Fox, 2001.</climb><text class="heading2" new="false" number="null.">Pubic Flash</text><text">8m right of PPP is another arête. Up past 3 bolts and some cams in the horizontal break. DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb classextra="text">From Hoo Hoo Hut you can go either way along the loop to Deadman's Knob until you come to a rock cairn beside a log on the river side of the track(see map). Either way it is about 800m. Then walk towards the river for about 100m. This will bring you to the top of the cliff. It is also possible to get to the cliff from the Duck Reach power station but the walk up the hill is not recommended. There are some shorter easier climbs on the top section. However all the action starts on the lower cliff. This has some of the hardest climbs in northern Tassie so go and flail yourself. Just beware of the Peregrines around nesting time (Sep-Dec) and that the cliff is south facing so will need a bit of wire brushing after a winter of sloth.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" number="null.grade="20" length="10m" name="Tulip Variant">An excellent variant finish to RTM. At the horizontal break move left to finish up the crack. Tiz, Kearnes, 2001.</climb><text class="text">Half way between Rabbit Trap Buttress Proper and the Old Timers Buttresses is a small cliff with the next two climbs. Access is by walking along the bottom either from Rabbit Trap or Old Timers.</text><climb extra="" grade="17" length="8m" name="Chilli Jam">Climb the orange corner on (shock, horror) natural gear. Don't worry there is a DBB on top. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="17" length="9m" name="GBH with a Deadly Possum" new="false" number="" stars="**" srcvalue="Launceston_Pubic.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra="" grade="19" length="20m" name="Violation" stars=" * ">On the upstream side of the isolated pillar is a hand crack, climb this to the top. Maddison, McMahon, 1978.</climb><climbUp the face 2m right of Chilli Jam past 2 FH and some cams to a DBB. Fox, Nichols, 2001.">Up the face 2m right of Chilli Jam past 2 FH and some cams to a DBB. Fox, Nichols, 2001.</climb><text extraclass="heading3" gradenew="23" length="15m"false" number="null.">Old Timers Buttresses</text><text nameclass="Porky Pig Procures Porcelain Profiteroles#" stars=" * ">The thin crack starting behind a bush 20m upstream from The Road Runner Show. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb"text">If you take the turn off from the 4wd track on the crest of the hill you should find yourself on top of Possumlea which has a DBB on top of it.</text><climb extra="3B" grade="2521" length="17m8m" name="TheOver the RoadTop Runnerwith Show#Jim" new="false" number="" stars=" **" ">2 bolts and 2 fixed hangers.</climb><climb extra="" grade="27" length="17m" name="Daffy Does Dallas#" stars=" ** ">4 bolts possibly badly placed so check it out before you attempt the onsight value="20m upstream from Possumlea is a separate pillar. Climb the left arête of this past 3 eye bolts to a DBB. Fox, Sharman, 2001.">20m upstream from Possumlea is a separate pillar. Climb the left arête of this past 3 eye bolts to a DBB. Fox, Sharman, 2001.</climb><climb extra="2B" grade="2122" length="9m" name="17mPossumlea" new="false" namenumber="Fudge For Elmer Fudd#">5m upstream from Bugs Bunny for Breakfast is a corner and crack which looks like it will improve dramatically with a clean<" stars="" value="2 bolts up the blunt arête. Stick clip the first. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.">2 bolts up the blunt arête. Stick clip the first. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2418" length="17m9m" name="Buggs Bunny for Breakfast#Mr Natural" stars=" ** ">2m upstream from>Around the offcorner widthfrom chimney/cornerPossumlea is aanother linenatural ofgear 7route. carrotsWhat someis ofthe whichworld arecoming hard to! getHowever hangers over.</climb><climb it does have a DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001</climb><climb extra="" grade="2420" length="12m8m" name="Born Again">Start from the block but try not to use the pillar 1m away. The climbing becomes fully independent after 4m. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><textShoes, Glue and Almost No Can Do" stars=" * ">The face on the pillar 3m right of Mr Natural. 2 eye bolts and some cams. Sharman, Fox, 2001.</climb><climb classextra="heading2Þ" newgrade="false16" number length="null.9m">Willow Jungle & Mansion On the Hill</text><textname="Not Just a Pretty Face" classnew="textfalse" newnumber="false" stars="*" number="null.">Access- see map. Stand in front of the map at the Hoo Hoo Hut and then walk directly south as indicated on the map(actually south-west). With-in 50m 10 minutes all up if you find the right way). The top tier is 40m back from the river and 50m down the river from the bottom tier. The bottom tier is at the end of the HEC water channel nestled against the willows. Alternatively you can walk up from Duck Reach power station, past all the other crags not described here, which takes about 45 minutes. The first 4 climbs are on the bottom tier and have a DBB.</text><image value="Ain't that the truth. The slabby face with 2 bolts up the pillar 10m right of SGAANCD. DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, Fox, 2001.">Ain't that the truth. The slabby face with 2 bolts up the pillar 10m right of SGAANCD. DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, Fox, 2001.</climb><text class="heading2" new="false" number="null.">Pubic Flash</text><text class="text">From Hoo Hoo Hut you can go either way along the loop to Deadman's Knob until you come to a rock cairn beside a log on the river side of the track(see map). Either way it is about 800m. Then walk towards the river for about 100m. This will bring you to the top of the cliff. It is also possible to get to the cliff from the Duck Reach power station but the walk up the hill is not recommended. There are some shorter easier climbs on the top section. However all the action starts on the lower cliff. This has some of the hardest climbs in northern Tassie so go and flail yourself. Just beware of the Peregrines around nesting time (Sep-Dec) and that the cliff is south facing so will need a bit of wire brushing after a winter of sloth.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" number="null." src="pubic flash sketch map.png" width=""></image><text class="heading3" new="false" value="Pubic Flash Pinnacle">Pubic Flash Pinnacle</text><climb extra="" grade="19" length="20m" name="Violation" stars=" * ">On the upstream side of the isolated pillar is a hand crack, climb this to the top. Maddison, McMahon, 1978.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="" name="Screw" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Climbs Pubic Flash for 10m, then left on blocks. Reg Marron 1973.">Climbs Pubic Flash for 10m, then left on blocks. Reg Marron 1973.</climb><climb extra="" grade="13" length="" name="Pubic Flash" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Wide crack and chimney on downstream face of main cliff. McHugh, McMahon, 1972.">Wide crack and chimney on downstream face of main cliff. McHugh, McMahon, 1972.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" value="Pubic Flash Wall">Pubic Flash Wall</text><climb extra="" grade="24" length="15m" name="Born Again" new="false" number="" stars="*" value="The thin crack starting behind a bush 20m upstream from Obi Wan Kenobi. Narkowicz, 1985.">The thin crack starting behind a bush 20m upstream from Obi Wan Kenobi. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="" name="The Narrow Road" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Prominent thin corner. Narkowicz 1985.">Prominent thin corner. Narkowicz 1985.</climb><climb extra="4B" grade="25" length="17m" name="Obi Wan Kenobi" new="false" number="" stars="*" value="2 bolts and 2 fixed hangers. Ng 1990.">2 bolts and 2 fixed hangers. Ng 1990.</climb><climb extra="4B" grade="27" length="17m" name="Optometrist" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="4 carrot bolts possibly badly placed so check it out before you attempt the onsight. Ng 1990.">4 carrot bolts possibly badly placed so check it out before you attempt the onsight. Ng 1990.</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="17m" name="Penetration" new="false" number="" stars="" value="5m upstream from Back Door to Heaven is a corner and crack which looks like it will improve dramatically with a clean. Smart, McMahon, 1982.">5m upstream from Back Door to Heaven is a corner and crack which looks like it will improve dramatically with a clean. Smart, McMahon, 1982.</climb><climb extra="7B" grade="24" length="17m" name="Back Door To Heaven" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="2m upstream from the off width chimney/corner is a line of 7 carrots some of which are hard to get hangers over. Ng 1991.">2m upstream from the off width chimney/corner is a line of 7 carrots some of which are hard to get hangers over. Ng 1991.</climb><text class="heading2" new="false" number="null." value="Willow Jungle Area">Willow Jungle Area</text><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">Access- see map. Stand in front of the map at the Hoo Hoo Hut and then walk directly south as indicated on the map(actually south-west). With-in 50m 10 minutes all up if you find the right way). The top tier is 40m back from the river and 50m down the river from the bottom tier. The bottom tier is at the end of the HEC water channel nestled against the willows. Alternatively you can walk up from Duck Reach power station, past all the other crags not described here, which takes about 45 minutes. The first 4 climbs are on the bottom tier and have a DBB.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" number="null." src="willow jungle sketch map 2.png" width=""></image><text class="heading3" new="false" value="Willow Jungle Main Crag">Willow Jungle Main Crag</text><climb extra="" grade="14" length="" name="French Lettuce" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Blocky corner on far L of causeway. Humzoo 1984.">Blocky corner on far L of causeway. Humzoo 1984.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="" name="Psycho Sexual Mutilation" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Thin face with tree at half height. Narkowicz 1984.">Thin face with tree at half height. Narkowicz 1984.</climb><climb extra="4B" grade="24" length="10m" name="Dolphins and Whales" new="false" number="" stars="*" value="The face/corner with 4 carrots. All of which are hard to get hangers over so add a grade if you like hanging around in extremis trying to get bolt plates to fit. Ng 1990.">The face/corner with 4 carrots. All of which are hard to get hangers over so add a grade if you like hanging around in extremis trying to get bolt plates to fit. Ng 1990.</climb><climb extra="5B" grade="25" length="10m" name="Dead Man Walking" new="false" number="" stars="***" value="The corner with 5 FH. Excellent and unlikely climbing. Narkowicz 2001.">The corner with 5 FH. Excellent and unlikely climbing. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><climb extra="3B" grade="24" length="10m" name="Dogs, Dust and Diesel" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="The corner with 3 FH, 2 of which are beside the old pitons. Needs some wires/small cams between the first and second FH. Narkowicz, 1982.">The corner with 3 FH, 2 of which are beside the old pitons. Needs some wires/small cams between the first and second FH. Narkowicz, 1982.</climb><climb extra="4B" grade="23" length="10m" name="Surf City" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="Up to the roof and on to the arete past 4 carrots. Ng 1990.">Up to the roof and on to the arete past 4 carrots. Ng 1990.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="I'm Married to my Bulldog Mac" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Crack to right of Surf City. Narkowicz 1984.">Crack to right of Surf City. Narkowicz 1984.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Shouldering On" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Line up middle of smaller crag 20m right. Narkowicz 1983.">Line up middle of smaller crag 20m right. Narkowicz 1983.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Wine List & Snack Menu" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Right of Shouldering On. Ling 1983.">Right of Shouldering On. Ling 1983.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" value="Mansion On the Hill">Mansion On the Hill</text><text class="text" new="false" value="These climbs are on the Mansion On the Hill, which is up to the right of the main Willow Jungle crag.">These climbs are on the Mansion On the Hill, which is up to the right of the main Willow Jungle crag.</text><climb extra="4B" grade="22" length="10m" name="Missing Josiah" new="false" number="" stars="*" value="On the separate pillar at the far upstream end of the cliff is a bolted face. Hard start then eases up. 4 FH and a DBB. Narkowicz 2001.">On the separate pillar at the far upstream end of the cliff is a bolted face. Hard start then eases up. 4 FH and a DBB. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="" name="Never Going Back" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Follow crack out to arete, then up Missing Josiah. Narkowicz 1983.">Follow crack out to arete, then up Missing Josiah. Narkowicz 1983.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="" name="Scales of Justice" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Narrowing chimney. Neale Smith 1983.">Narrowing chimney. Neale Smith 1983.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Gates of Hardened Steel" new="false" number="" stars="*" value="The thin crack in the shallow corner. Neale Smith, 1983.">The thin crack in the shallow corner. Neale Smith, 1983.</climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Sticky Willow" stars=" * ">A bouldery start to gain access to the thin crack. McOwan, Wells, 1991.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="8m" name="Clandestine Filth" new="false" number="" stars="*" value="The hand crack 2m left of Chuck It. McMahon 1983.">The hand crack 2m left of Chuck It. McMahon 1983.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Chuck It on the Backburner With the Abbos and the Poofters" new="false" number="" stars="" value="The corner. McMahon 1983.">The corner. McMahon 1983.</climb><climb newextra="false4B" noPrintgrade="false" number="null." src="Launceston_Willow.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb22" length="10m" name="Barbeque Boy" extranew="false" gradenumber="24" lengthstars="10m" namevalue="BoysThe bolted onface Bikes#">The face/corner with 4 carrots. All of which are hard to get hangers over so add a grade if you like hanging around in extremis trying to get bolt plates to fit. Ng, 1986.</climb><climb extra="" grade="25" length="10m" name="Something Christian#" stars=" *** ">The corner with 5 FH. Excellent and unlikely climbing. Narkowicz 2001.L of Night Train (the arete with carrot bolts by Danny Ng). Gymnastic face moves past 4 bolts to join the same anchors as Night Train. Gerry Narkowicz 7/12/04.">The bolted face L of Night Train (the arete with carrot bolts by Danny Ng). Gymnastic face moves past 4 bolts to join the same anchors as Night Train. Gerry Narkowicz 7/12/04. </climb><climb extra="4B" grade="2423" length="10m8m" name="Dogs, Dust and Diesel" stars=" ** ">The corner with 3 FH, 2 of which are beside the old pitons. Needs some wires/small cams between the first and second FH. Narkowicz, 1982.</climb><climb Night Train" new="false" extra="" grade="23" lengthnumber="10m" namestars="HEC Power#" starsvalue=" ** ">Up to the roof and on to theStart from the ledge 8m left of Those Mornings After Blues climb the blunt arete past 4 carrots. NgDBB.</climb><text class="text">The remaining climbs are on the Upper Tier.</text><climb extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Missing Josiah" stars=" * ">On the separate pillar at the far upstream end of the cliff is a bolted face. Hard start then eases up. 4 FH and a DBB. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><climbNg 1990's.">Start from the ledge 8m left of Those Mornings After Blues climb the blunt arete past 4 carrots. DBB. Ng 1990's.</climb><text class="text">The next two climbs start in the same corner and look too close to be independent but are actually quite separate.</text><climb extra="" grade="1918" length="10m" name="WillowThose Delight#">TheMorning thin crack in the shallow corner.</climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Sticky WillowAfter Blues#" new="false" number="" stars="" starsvalue=" * ">A bouldery start to gain access to the thin crack. McOwan, Wells, 1991The left hand crack from the same start as BOAT.">The left hand crack from the same start as BOAT.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1820" length="8m10m" name="JamBringing inOn thea Pockets#Thirst" new="false" number="" stars="" * ">The hand crack 2m left of Skeletonsvalue="Starts in the Closet.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Skeletons in the Closet#">The corner<corner and then goes up the right crack. Narkowicz 1983.">Starts in the corner and then goes up the right crack. Narkowicz 1983.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2219" length=" 10m" name="BarbequePussy Boy" Willow" new="false" number="" stars="">The bolted face L of Night Train (the arete with carrot bolts by Danny Ng). Gymnastic face moves past 4 bolts to join the same anchors as Night Train. Gerry Narkowicz 7/12/04. number="" stars="*" value="The corner/crack with the chockstones. Neale Smith 1983.">The corner/crack with the chockstones. Neale Smith 1983.</climb><climb extra="3B" grade="23" length="8m10m" name="NightGoing to TrainHoreb" new="false" number="" stars="*" number="" stars="">Start from the ledge 8m left of Those Mornings After Blues climb the blunt arete past 4 carrotsvalue="Same start as SC before moving left at the undercling to the arête up past 3 FH. DBB. Narkowicz 2001.">Same start as SC before moving left at the undercling to the arête up past 3 FH. DBB. NgNarkowicz 1990's2001.</climb><climb newextra="true"/><text class="text">The next two climbs start in the same corner and look too close to be independent but are actually quite separate.</text><climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Those Morning After Blues#">The left hand crack from the same start as NT.</climb><climb grade="18" length="10m" name="Summer Campaign" new="false" number="" stars="*" value="Up thin crack for 3m to horizontal break before moving right to the hand crack.McMahon 1983.">Up thin crack for 3m to horizontal break before moving right to the hand crack.McMahon 1983.</climb><text extraclass="heading3" gradenew="20false" length="10m" number="null.">Fifth Estate</text><text nameclass="text"Next Time#">Starts in the corner and then goes up the right crack.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Sorry Jason#" stars=" * ">The corner/crack with the chockstones.</climb><climbnew="false" number="null.">From the arrowhead rock cairn to Willow Jungle continue straight ahead following the other cairns for 50m 4 good looking sports routes and a few natural gear routes that look O.K</text><text extraclass="heading2" gradenew="23" length="10m" name="Going to Horebfalse" starsnumber=" * ">Same start as SC before moving left at the undercling to the arête up past 3 FH. DBB. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><climbnull.">Aclai Del Lei</text><text class="text" new="false" extranumber="null.">This grade="18" length="10m" name="Summer Campaign" stars=" * ">Up thin crack for 3m to horizontal break before moving right to the hand crack.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Fifth Estate</text><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">From the arrowhead rock cairn to Willow Jungle continue straight ahead following the other cairns for 50m 4 good looking sports routes and a few natural gear routes that look O.K</text><text class="heading2" new="false" number="null.">Aclai Del Lei</text><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">This cliff is reached either by walking across the Trevallyn Dam wall and heading up the hill, or more easily: head towards the Launceston casino, take a right turn into Blackstone Rd, follow this for a few km's, turn right into Panorama Rd and follow this to a T intersection (Bayview Dr.) Turn right, then take the next right at Columbus Dr. Park at the end of this. If you follow Bayview Dr. to its end and look to the right you will see Aclai Del Lei. From the car park on the left is a gate and a track that heads up hill. Follow your nose up the hill and down the other side until you get to a small open grassy area (about 5 min). From here head slightly to your left through the bush for another 100m. This should bring you to the top of the cliff. There is a rap station set back on a boulder above Bisso is My Motor. The climbing here is great. On a sunny winters day it's possible to climb in just a shirt. To find your way around first find Wasp Factory (the wall with 3 eye bolts and a DBB) and work from there).</text><climbcliff is reached either by walking across the Trevallyn Dam wall and heading up the hill, or more easily: head towards the Launceston casino, take a right turn into Blackstone Rd, follow this for a few km's, turn right into Panorama Rd and follow this to a T intersection (Bayview Dr.) Turn right, then take the next right at Columbus Dr. Park at the end of this. If you follow Bayview Dr. to its end and look to the right you will see Aclai Del Lei. From the car park on the left is a gate and a track that heads up hill. Follow your nose up the hill and down the other side until you get to a small open grassy area (about 5 min). From here head slightly to your left through the bush for another 100m. This should bring you to the top of the cliff. There is a rap station set back on a boulder above Bisso is My Motor. The climbing here is great. On a sunny winters day it's possible to climb in just a shirt. To find your way around first find Wasp Factory (the wall with 3 eye bolts and a DBB) and work from there).</text><climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Holy Roman Empire" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Bridging steeply up face on left of crag. Narkowicz 1982.">Bridging steeply up face on left of crag. Narkowicz 1982.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Silicon Chip" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Blocky start up to FH and corner above then trend right. A bit loose in places. Neale Smith 1983.">Blocky start up to FH and corner above then trend right. A bit loose in places. Neale Smith 1983.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1822" length="10m" 17m" name="DonParson't Be Blinded By The Light#">The line somewhere left of SIMM</climb><climbs Arete" extranew="false" gradenumber="20" lengthstars="15m" namevalue="SatanRight isarete Myof Motor#">Blockymain startface upwith toone FHbolt. and corner above then trend right. A bit loose in placesParsons 1982.">Right arete of main face with one bolt. Parsons 1982.</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="19m" name="Northern Man" new="17mfalse" namenumber="Piton Crazy#">Up blocky face right of SIMM to FH. Then past old piton that is not visible from the ground before finishing up hand crack" stars="**" value="Twin finger cracks left of Wasp Factory. Narkowicz 1982.">Twin finger cracks left of Wasp Factory. Narkowicz 1982.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2221" length="19m18m" name="Northern ManBisso is My Motor" stars=" ** ">The leftthin arête of the Wasp Factory face. Start on thecrack 2m right of theNM. littleGood caveclimbing thenwith updirect shallowfinish corner topast FH and then thin crack above to bouldery finish.</climb><climb extra="3B" grade="2124" length="18m15m" name="Bisso is My MotorWasp Factory" new="false" number="" stars="***" starsvalue=" * ">The thin crack 2m right of NM. Good climbing with direct finish past FH.</climb><climb extra="" grade="24" length="15m" name="Wasp Factory" stars=" *** Tho' I reckon it's a grade harder especially for the onsight or the less than six foot climber. The face 5m right of BIMM, sporting 3 bolts and a DBB. Good, committing climbing. Tierney, Fox, Bissett 1997.">Tho' I reckon it's a grade harder especially for the onsight or the less than six foot climber. The face 5m right of BIMM, sporting 3 bolts and a DBB. Good, committing climbing. Tierney, Fox, Bissett 1997.</climb><text class="text/climb><text class="text" new="false" value="There is a set of rap chains on the wall at the top of White Fang.">There is a set of rap chains on the wall at the top of Intent to Outrage ModestyWhite Fang.</text><climb extra="2B" grade="23" length="13m" name="Margin Walker" new="false" number="" stars="*" value=" * The arête with 2 bolts across the gully and right of WF. A mid-size cam is handy once you gain the flake. Bissett, Fox, Tierney 1997.">The arête with 2 bolts across the gully and right of WF. A mid-size cam is handy once you gain the flake. Bissett, Fox, Tierney 1997.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="13m" name="White Fang" new="false" grade number="22" lengthstars="13m*" namevalue="Intent to Outrage Modesty#" stars=" * Same start as MW but head right past 2 carrots to the right leading crack. Ng.">Same start as MW but head right past 2 carrots to the right leading crack. Ng.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="12m" name="Expecting To Fly" new="Quality Crack#false" number="" stars=" ** **" value="This is the fun crack right of ITOM. Up the crack to the overlap then a tricky move left to gain the final crack. Both the climbing and the protection are good. Narkowicz 1982.">This is the fun crack right of ITOM. Up the crack to the overlap then a tricky move left to gain the final crack. Both the climbing and the protection are good. Narkowicz 1982.</climb></guide> |
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