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This rap point is directly on top of “ The Mermaids Siren”, one of the best grade 17 trad routes anywhere and a top rope can easily be rigged while on abseil. 

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The climbing

Routes ordered starting upstream to downstream

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A double rack of cams (0.3 - #2 plus a single #3) and several runners more than adequately protects this route. A brilliant warm up and very worth doing in its own right

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Guillotine 

24 

15m sport

A great route beginning with delicate moves up the immaculate polished bulge (a stick clip helps). Gain the large ledge before launching up into the steepness on big moves. Guillotine takes the left line of bolts at the roof with a powerful crux.

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The absolutely horizontal roof above Guillotine and Scimitar and a great way to top out the crag. Crazy moves in a crazy position, can be done from the ground in one mega pitch. Best be seconded to clean and descend from the rap point 30m upstream to avoid soaking your rope.

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Negotiate the tricky section of canyon to get to the next climbs. Wading is usually the only option for those under 6ft. 

Its a Pirates Life For Me

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Alone in the Ocean

25

25m sport

Starts as for…. Splitting for "Its a Pirates Life For Me" splintering right after the first roof. Bouldery and heroic, the final 5m of glory jugs finish at the very top right of the wall. Bring a few long runners to ease rope drag. 

2x u bolts for anchors

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Shipwreck Cove 

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Pocket full of bolts 

24

10m mixed

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A single rack from black totem to #1 is ample gear, a second 0.4 or 0.5 can be handy for aid.

2x u bolts for anchors

The Midlands Highway 

19

30m sport

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Takes the long low angled slab before sharply turning and navigating the steep upper wall. Less confident leaders should consider breaking this into two small pitches as the upper moves can have some bad ledge fall potential. 

2x u bolts for anchors

Marooned

1617

20m sport

The easiest way out of the crag but also a great climb in its own right. To access from the top rap down over the most prominent part of the lookout. From below, scramble up to the vegetated ledge (rope in place 2025 for safety) and navigate over the huge quantities of trash. Follow the line of bolts though two rooflets, topping out at the proudest bit of the cliff. Either belay here from single bolt and tree or continue 20m further to the carpark and belay from the comfort of your car. 

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