Page History

<guide version="3"><header>
  <header access="Access is via the track from the LH end of the parking bay which crosses the Organ Pipes Track and continues on up the hill. Where the track meets the base of the Lower Northern Buttress (see Northern Buttress sketch map), go up R and follow a rough track around the northern side of Toy Town buttress and scramble uphill to the spire of Johnstone's Knob." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="There are a number of shorter buttresses to the north of the main cliffs that provide some OK climbing." name="Far North Area" rock="Short dolerite cracks and faces up to 20m" sun="Morning sun" walk="10 min from Northern Buttress" id="1"/>
  <text class="heading2" id="2">Toy Town</text><text22">
    DNA Buttress
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="3">Toy Town23">
    DNA Buttress is a groupsmall ofbuttress four30m smallsteeply buttressesuphill immediatelyand R from the top of Northernthe Pipedream Buttress Lower Cliff and contains several short lines. The routesmost areprominent entertaining,is withGear easy accessFreak, andthe are described R to Lcorner crack. Descend viato the central gully or lower off Nancy Boy.L.
  </text>
  <climb extra="" grade="1712" length="7m8m" name="Virgin Boys Pancakes" stars="" id="429" fa="Phil Steane (solo), Aug 1982Unknown.">A>
 pleasant sojourn on theThe far RH buttress. Climb a short crack flake on the wall L edge,of step R and up to the top.</climb><climbSimple Minds.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="208 " length="8m" name="Boy'sSimple ToyMinds " stars="*" id="528" fa="D.Phil StephensonSteane, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989.">Could be dangerous.Oct 1982.">
    The nextshallow buttresscorner Lchimney (second4m fromto the R).L Moveof RRheumatism.
 across the</climb>
 face and climb the R arête past a large hollow flake.</climb><climb  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="2119" length="10m" name="NancyRheumatism Boys " number="" stars="*" id="627" fa="RS. ParkynParsons, Apr 1992P.">An amusingBigg, encounterD. foundFife, on the arête L of Boys Toy. Start on the RH side of the central gully that leads to We Can Jam Too, and climb the arête mostly on the LH side via three bolts to a rap station. The ridiculously hard crux is the first few moves immediately off the ground.</climb><climbFeb 1982.">
    Anti-inflammatory medication might help! The thin line up the arête to the L of Gear Freak.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="2016" length="10m" name="Child'sGear PlayFreak " number="" stars="*" id="726" fa="DS. Parsons, P. StephensonBigg, JD. OtlowskiFife, AprFeb 19891982.">Surprisingly insecure moves at the top. The RH arête of the largest (middle) buttress. Start on the LH side of the central gully and climb up the arête and the shallow corner above.</climb><climb number="GF">
    Ten metres of pure joy that ends prematurely. The hand crack in the prominent corner immediately L of D.N.A. Gets wider as you go.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="2115" length="10m" name="War Toy D.N.A. " number="" stars="*" id="825" fa="D. StephensonBowman, JR. OtlowskiWells, AprDec 19891977.">A>
 bomb waiting to drop.Just TheR obviousof lineGear upFreak theis centrea ofline thewith middlea buttress,suspended justblade L3m ofoff Child'sthe Playground. Climb up thin cracks just L ofto the arêteblade and move carefullyup past the semi-detachedwide spikecrack to a hands off rest on the top.
 Step off L and climb the wall above.</climb><text class="text" id="9">The next climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediately above Child's Play. Scramble up the gully between Nancy Boys and Child's Play for 4m, then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras tree.</text><climb climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1814" length="12m15m" name="We Can Jam TooAdolescent Drifters" number="" stars="" id="1024" fa="J.Phil FischerSteane, JD. RobinsonFife, May 20051982.">Steep>
 and potentially strenuous ifThe you get it wrong. Start up the crack then follow the arête before moving L into the crack again when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack to the top, making full use of the arête. Abseil off.</climb>
off-width crack 6m R of D.N.A.
  </climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="11">Johnstone>
    Johnstone's Knob
  </text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="12">A>
    A number of short routes exist on outcrops in the Johnstone's Knob area. All routes can be located easily from near the Knob.
Descend via the rap stations above the bolted routes, walk off or tape abseil the rest.
  </text><imagetext>
  <image noPrint="false" src="great red pointer.jpg" width="500" id="13"/><climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="1217" length="12m20m" name="Johnstone's Knob Shelter From The Storm " number="" stars="*" id="1420" fa="UnknownK. Kiernan, SepNov 19611975.">The>
 prominent 12m spire thatThe castsother aroute spellon onPipedream climbersButtress. andClimb enticesthe themcrack over.line Therearound arethe severalarête waysL toof thePipedream. topTricky.
 Rap station.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="1916" length="12m15m" name=" Great Red Pointer Pipedream " number="PD" stars="*" id="1519" fa="D. Bowman, R. ParkynWells, Dec 19931977.">Bizarre>
 climbing up the sideClimb ofa thesteep Johnstone'shand Knobcrack thaton facesthe NorthernRH Buttress.face Involvespast usingsome thedifficulties arêtesin onthe eithermid side,section. sometimesAbseil simultaneouslyoff.
 Has three</climb>
 glued carrots.</climb><text<text class="text" id="16">The next route is on 18">
    The next two routes are found on Pipedream Buttress, a small facebuttress about 30m south40m  uphill and southwest (L) of theJohnstone's Knob.
 and at</text>
 the same level.</text><climb <climb extra="4Þ ↓" grade="21" length="12m" name=" Sergeant Slaughter " number="" stars="*" id="17" fa="G. Phillips, Oct 1995.">Pleasant>
    Pleasant climbing. 4 bolts plus rap station.
  </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="text" id="1816">The>
 next two routes areThe foundnext onroute Pipedreamis Buttress,on a small buttressface about 40m30m south uphill and southwest (L) of Johnstone'sthe Knob and at the same level.
  </text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="1619" length="15m12m" name="Pipedream Great Red Pointer " number="PD" stars="*" id="1915" fa="DR. BowmanParkyn, R1993.">
  Wells, Dec 1977.">Climb a steep hand crack on the RH face past some difficulties in the mid section. Abseil off.</climb>
Bizarre climbing up the side of the Johnstone's Knob that faces Northern Buttress. Involves using the arêtes on either side, sometimes simultaneously. Has three glued carrots.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="1712" length="20m12m" name="Shelter From The Storm " number="" Johnstone's Knob " stars="*" id="2014" fa="K. KiernanUnknown, NovSep 19751961.">The other route on Pipedream Buttress. Climb the crack line around the arête L of Pipedream. Tricky.</climb><image>
    The prominent 12m spire that casts a spell on climbers and entices them over. There are several ways to the top. Rap station.
  </climb>
  <image src="DNAPipeDreamPrint.jpg" width="500" id="21">null<>
    null
  </image>
  <text class="heading2" id="22">DNA Buttress</text><text2">
    Toy Town
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="23">DNA Buttress3">
    Toy Town is a smallgroup buttressof 30mfour steeplysmall uphillbuttresses andimmediately R from the top of the Pipedream Buttress and contains several short lines. The most prominent is Gear Freak, the corner crack. Descend to the L.</text><climbof Northern Buttress Lower Cliff. The routes are entertaining, with easy access, and are described R to L. Descend via the central gully or lower off Nancy Boys.
  </text>
  <climb extra="" grade="1418" length="15m12m" name="Adolescent DriftersWe Can Jam Too" number="" stars="" id="2410" fa="PhilJ. SteaneFischer, DJ. FifeRobinson, May 1982.">The off-width crack 6m R of D.N.A.</climb>
2005.">
    Steep and potentially strenuous if you get it wrong. Start up the crack then follow the arête before moving L into the crack again when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack to the top, making full use of the arête. Abseil off.
  </climb>
  <text class="text" id="9">
    The next climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediately above Child's Play. Scramble up the gully between Nancy Boys and Child's Play for 4m, then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras tree.
  </text>
  <climb extra="" grade="1521" length="10m" name="D.N.A. " number=""War Toy " stars="*" id="258" fa="D. BowmanStephenson, RJ. WellsOtlowski, DecApr 19771989.">Just R of Gear Freak is a line with a suspended blade 3m off the ground. Climb to the blade and up the wide crack to the top.</climb><climb>
    A bomb waiting to drop. The obvious line up the centre of the middle buttress, just L of Child's Play. Climb up thin cracks just L of the arête and move carefully past the semi-detached spike to a hands off rest on top. Step off L and climb the wall above.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1620" length="10m" name="GearChild's FreakPlay " number="" stars="*" id="267" fa="SD. ParsonsStephenson, PJ. BiggOtlowski, D. Fife, Feb 1982." number="GF">Ten metres of pure joy that ends prematurely. The hand crack in the prominent corner immediately L of D.N.A. Gets wider as you go.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19Apr 1989.">
    Surprisingly insecure moves at the top. The RH arête of the largest (middle) buttress. Start on the LH side of the central gully and climb up the arête and the shallow corner above.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="10m" name="RheumatismNancy Boys " number="" stars="*" id="276" fa="SR. ParsonsParkyn, Apr P1992. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb 1982.">Anti-inflammatory medication might help! The thin line up the arête to the L of Gear Freak.</climb><climb">
    An amusing encounter found on the arête L of Boys Toy. Start on the RH side of the central gully that leads to We Can Jam Too, and climb the arête mostly on the LH side via three bolts to a rap station. The ridiculously hard crux is the first few moves immediately off the ground.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="8 20" length="8m" name="SimpleBoy's MindsToy " stars="*" id="285" fa="Phil SteaneD. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, OctApr 1982.">The shallow corner chimney 4m to the L of Rheumatism.</climb><climb1989.">
    Could be dangerous. The next buttress L (second from the R). Move R across the face and climb the R arête past a large hollow flake.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1217" length="8m7m" name="PancakesVirgin Boys " stars="" id="294" fa="Unknown.">The flakePhil Steane (solo), Aug 1982.">
    A pleasant sojourn on the wall L of Simple Minds. far RH buttress. Climb a short crack on the L edge, step R and up to the top.
  </climb>
</guide>