Frenchmans Cap

1-2 days bushwalk
Mixed sun and shade
Alpine quartzite, up to 350m high

Acknowledgement

The text and topos of this guide are mainly from Phil Robinson’s 1979 guide and from information collected by Pete Steane in 1991 for the CCT circular. These are used with permission. In Phil’s guide he acknowledges the help of Reg Williams, Peter Jackson (who drew Figures 2 and 3), Dave Neilson, Wilf Elvey, Chris (Basil) Rathbone, Ken Harvey, Ian Ross, Chris Dewhirst, Vili Bartholomew, Glen Kowalik and the CCT. Other route descriptions are from the CCT newsletter and Rock magazine.

Introduction

The Frenchmans Cap complex takes the form of a horseshoe shaped range, open to the south east, with the Frenchman itself dominant on the western rim. The environment is spectacular, challenging and beautiful, its physical features sculptured by the Pleistocene glaciation which determined the character of most of our high country. West and north the land falls steeply to the gorges of the Franklin. Tarns nestle high on the shoulders of the mountain, while between the encircling arms of the horseshoe, overlooked by the great East and South East Faces, dark lakes are set in rich rainforest which rises from the valley floor to terminate beneath walls and towers of white quartzite. Five kilometres of secondary peaks and crags curve around to connect the Cap with Philps Peak, the highest point on the eastern arm of the range, while the southward arm extends a kilometre and a half to its southern limit at Clytemnestra.

Being close to the west coast in the path of the prevailing westerly airstream at an altitude of 1446 metres (4744 feet), Frenchmans Cap is one of the wettest places in Tasmania. No direct rainfall records are available but the long term average would be in the vicinity of 400cm per year. Though Tasmanian rainfall is fairly well distributed throughout the year, the period from late autumn through to early summer is the wettest. Records and experience indicate that the time between late January and the end of March offers the best chance of a dry trip. Snowfall is heaviest in winter, but can occur at any time, so parties are advised to take weather into account when planning trips, and particularly when anticipating bivouacs on the longer routes. Frenchmans has been summited numerous times in winter under snow conditions - ropes and an axe make for a safer trip in these conditions. In July 1978 two walkers were unlucky enough to be trapped by 2m of snow at Lake Tahune hut. Down to their last scraps of food after several days they were rescued during a short break in the weather by helicopter. Given the right snow conditions however there is ample scope for winter mountaineering on the Cap and its ancillary ridges.

Frenchmans Cap was proclaimed a National Park in 1941 and is now part of the Wild Rivers National Park in the heart of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area. In the 1980s the wilderness value of the park was threatened by the Franklin Dam proposal, but thankfully this was averted by concerted action by environmentalists. Please respect the fragile alpine environment of Frenchmans Cap by adhering to the minimal impact bushwalking code.

Frenchmans Cap is composed of a massive, resistant quartzite interspersed with occasional bands of schist. Though some climbs have a considerable amount of loose material on them, the rock is generally sound. When dry it has reasonable friction characteristics except for some patches of extremely hard, glassy quartzite. This latter material has few cracks and offers little protection. However, over most of the cliffs nut protection is available, although some climbers may find run outs longer than they would like. It has been described as a 'waddy' place at times. Quartzite is not always suitable for piton placements as brittle rock sometimes splits off in blocks when a peg is forced in. While old pegs mays still be found, they should not be trusted - any found are likely to be 40-50 years old by now. A wide range of nuts and cams is adequate for most routes.

Grades of old climbs have been translated into modern equivalents but, with many climbs having had only one or two ascents, both grades and star ratings are only a rough guide. It has been found that older climbs with only one ascent are often undergraded by modern standards. It is a remote cliff with notorious weather so take care.

History

The Cap was probably first sighted from out to sea off the west coast. It is clearly visible from Macquarie Harbour and its 'bald dome' is referred to in early writing in connection with the Sarah Island convict settlement (1822-1837). The first recorded ascent of the mountain was by surveyor James Sprent in 1853.

We owe the present track to the efforts of Government track cutter Philp in 1910. The track was allowed to decay for many years but was re-opened in the 1930s, by which time the mountain had received a number of visitors. It is now a popular venue for walking trips. Climbers began to appear on the scene in the early 1960s, attracted by the challenge of the great quartzite walls, up till then unclimbed, and perhaps too by the magnificent surroundings. Attention has increased, until today virtually all major features have been climbed, some by several routes. It could be said that with the ascent of the East Face, the era of conquest has passed. Future activities will be in the nature of consolidation and development and, of course, repeat ascents of the quality routes already established.

Access

The start is signposted beside the Lyell Highway 206km from Hobart and 54km from Queenstown.

Tahune Hut/campground is the best base camp for climbing - about an hour from most climbs. Tahune is approximately 25km from the road and can be reached in one long day, given a reasonably early start. The track has been improved since the days of the Sodden Loddens but is still physiologically deemanding. A highlight of the walk in, in good weather, is the sudden and confronting view of the Cap from the top of Barron Pass.

There is a daily bus service from Hobart to Queenstown and parties travelling west can be set down at the start of the track in the early afternoon with sufficient time to reach Lake Vera. Contact the Tasmania Travel and Information Centre on 03 6238 4222 for more info. Unfortunately, cars left at the start of the track are often subject to vandalism.

More information about the walk can be found on the 1:50,000 map 'Frenchmans Cap Map and Notes' or at the Parks and Wildlife web site: http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/?base=2255

Park Entry fees apply.

Crag Steward

Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (southwest@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Huts and permits

The Lake Vera Hut (about 4-6 hours from the start of the track) can sleep approximately 20 people, while the Tahune Hut, another 4 hours walk further on, accommodates up to 16 people. There also camping platforms at adjacent both huts.

The capacity of the huts has been managed since the Covid era - check Parks websites for current information. Bushwalking permits allow only one night in the Tahune area and so will not suit most rock climbing parties, except possibly solo-ists.

The CCT has negotiated Rock climbing permits which are available to those who are carrying racks and ropes, and these permits allow up to 6 nights at Tahune - but they are very limited in number (6 permits per each week starting on a Wednesday). As such, trips with large parties is generally discouraged, and if you cancel your trip, please cancel your permit!

The rock climbing permits can be booked here (checked Oct 2022):
https://www.eventbrite.com.au/e/frenchmans-cap-rockclimbers-registration-registration-170395686084?aff=erellivmlt

Due to various factors the registration system only allows climbers' bookings starting on Wednesdays! So if you want to start you trip on a thursday, then just book from the wednesday prior. Avoid starting trips on Mondays and Tuesdays if possible, as you will will need to take on 2 permits.

The permit allows has a maximum of 6 nights, all at lake Tahune (camping, or hut use is covered by same permit). Try and plan your trip accordingly (ie start walking early). If a small number of climbers need to stop at Vera due to fatigue or other factors, that will generally be ok despite the fact you will not have a permit for that hut - just explain yourselves to the ranger if they ask, and be respectful of the walkers who have actually booked their night at Vera.

The Frenchmans permit systems are currently non-mandatory, but we strongly recommend compliance to avoid conflict with other users and park rangers. While these restrictions may seem a substantial change from previous freedoms, we are overall thankful that PWS has considered the needs of climbers in this era of massively increased popularity combined with a pandemic.

It is recommended that a tent be carried as the huts may be full when you arrive.

EMERGENCY CAMPSITES: Franklin River - a number of sites can be found just before crossing the river; Loddon River; Philps Creek - first crossing; Lake Vera - a number of suitable sites are located along the track a short distance after crossing the bridge near the hut; and Lake Tahune - designated campsites.

This is a "fuel stove only" area: the surroundings of Lake Tahune were devastated by fire in 1966 while a campfire at Lake Vera burnt out over 6000ha of the Park in 1980.

Thanks to Gerry Narkowicz for the photo topos, which are from the new Tasmania Selected guide. Pete Steane took the original photos.

The Western Arm

Clytemnestra

Twisted Towers and South-East Summit

★13

See Figure 1. Climb down to the col below the first Twisted Tower then up the Tower (15m) returning the same way. Down the gully on west side and around to between Towers 1 and 2. Bridge up chimney between Towers (6m) and through gap on eastern side. Walk along ledge below second Tower to a crack on the R wall. Climb crack (15m, crux) then straight up to top of second Tower (12m) . Return to stance and traverse L to col between second Tower and south-east summit of Clytemnestra. Scramble to summit via easy chimney.

C. Baxter, P. Stranger, R. Williams, 17 Feb 1968.

South-West Wall

This is the far side of Frenchmans Cap from Lake Tahune.

Western Slab Route

150m13

The climb commences on the first distinct smooth, sloping wall encountered when moving around the south west base of the Cap from the West Col. Slab is at least 45m in length. (Further around is a steeper, similar wall as yet unclimbed.) The LH side of the slab is bounded by a gully. Go up slab for two pitches (little if any protection) to vertical wall. Traverse leftwards along wall to short vertical crack (spike runner). Above this is a flake belay stance. Traverse L again and do two pitches up the RH nose of the gully (second one delicate). Above gully there is a hard final pitch up inside corner which commences with an overhanging chockstone.

M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, 1962.

Western Slab Route Alternate Finish

Straight up vertical wall (after two pitches) then along a sloping terrace to the right for a short way; then straight up to top, finishing in top of gully.

I. Brown, solo, 1974.

South-West Wall Chimney

The "obvious chimney" on the southwest wall. No further details are known.

B. Allen and M. March in 1972

South-East Face

Southern Parapet

★180m10

This climb goes up the south-west skyline of the South East Face (see Fig 3) . Commence from just below the South Col on its eastern side, and climb along the edge of the face until the slopes of the summit dome are reached. The main part of the climb is reached after about three rope lengths from the South Col.

R. Sykes, M Douglas. Alt. leads, Dec 1963.

South East Face topo by Gerry Narkowicz
132. The Chimes of Freedom 270m 17
133. The Sydney Route 380m 16
134. De Gaulles Nose and The Plum line
135. The Great Flake 370m 22
136. The Lorax 385m 20
137. Conquistador 360m 20
139. Tierry le Fronde 150m 16

The Chimes of Freedom

★★★250m17

A deservedly popular classic with many superb pitches. Getting to the start of this route from the east requires a difficult scramble under the SE face involving a nasty gully scramble, or a large deviation down and up the talus. Start: At the foot of the second ramp left of the main couloir, easily distinguished by the mighty roofs which are to the left of the route. This climb follows the striking right-trending corner/crack up the ramp until it culminates on a large ledge. It then traverses diagonally L to a corner facing in the opposite direction to the ramp and continues to the top.1. 30mSteep scramble up the series of broken corners towards the foot of the ramp proper.2. 30mContinue in the same fashion to the ramp. It is common to solo these easy first two pitches.3. 20mUp the ramp (with crack in R wall) to a grassy ledge.4. 20mJam and bridge the corner (crux) to a semi-hanging belay. Possibly best to link pitches4 & 5There are two awkward moves.5. 30mContinue up the series of slabs until the crack steepens. Jam the vertical 18m corner with the help of holds on the R wall, to belay in the foot of the chimney. Doubles of #1 and 2 camalots are handy on this section.6. 25mAscend the chimney, or climb the rib on the R (better) to belay on a large ledge.7. 20mTraverse diagonally L to the foot of a corner, quite exposed and considered poorly protected in comparison with the rest of the route.8. 15mClimb the corner for 5m and then traverse R and up to a ledge (tackling the corner direct is about grade 18 and dirty). Traverse back L into a corner and belay on ledge. This pitch was the crux on the first ascent when pitch 4 was aided, and may be linked with pitch 7.9. 30mClimb straight up the corner for 18m then trend L up loose blocks to the ledge leading to the summit plateau.10.Step left around the corner and wander on up to the summit. Easy.

J. Ewbank, J. Moore, 18 Feb 1968. FFA: (pitch 4) C. Dewhirst, D. Neilson, Jan 1970.

Valerie

390m16M4

The line marked in Figs 2 and 3 is largely guesswork. The route has probably had only one ascent. Four artificial pitches and a waterfall pitch give this fine route an alpine flavour. It is a long, serious expedition, perhaps more demanding than the overall grade would indicate. Start: This climb largely follows the major line just left of the Sydney Route, and starts as for that climb.1. 36m 8Climb a series of vegetated corners to a slanting ledge and bollard belay.2. 21m 8Traverse 6m L and up to a belay beneath an overhanging wall.3. 36m 13Move down and L on to the wall and continue up this to a belay on top of a huge block.4. 27m 8Traverse 6m L along a good ledge, then climb diagonally up to a belay below and to the L of a waterfall.5. 33m 15Climb diagonally R and across the waterfall to a belay on a good ledge. Protection - nuts and two pitons.6. 24m 14Traverse back L for 6m, then move up (bollard runner); then down again, re-crossing the waterfall to belay beneath some huge, loose blocks, on a good ledge.7. 36m 15 M4Free climb the waterfall for 15m, then move into "artificial" for another 15m (all on jams) - then 6m of free climbing to a small ledge which is very wet and unpleasant.8. 24m 16 M2Three pieces of aid to a very hard and greasy free finish on to a good ledge under a 2m roof9. 36m 15Traverse out R for 3m then up for another 9m to a diagonal traverse line to the R. Follow this until it leads in above the crack and then continue up the V chimney to a reasonable belay.10. 27m 11Continue up the "V" chimney until about 9m below the big overhang, and belay in the chimney.11. 30m 14Traverse out R and then diagonally up to a ledge and piton belay.12. 36m 14Climb straight up a series of corners and sleep walls to a good ledge and belay beneath a chimney.13. 27m 14 M1Climb the chimney until it suddenly narrows and use three pieces of aid to a small ledge and nut belay.14. 24m 14 M1Climb the crack above with two items of aid and belay back from the cliff on a pile of rubble.

C. Dewhirst, J. Ewbank, J. Moore, P. Stranger, 16 Feb 1968.

The Natimuk Route

★340m22

The crack system left of the arête on buttress between Valerie and The Sydney Route. Start 40m uphill from the Sydney Route. This may be frequently be wet, in which case it might be better to begin by way of SR Direct Start.1. 50m 16Short, steep crack, then R along ramp. Cross seepage, then up to ledge (poor belay).2. 40m 16Traverse R round arête, then up to large terrace (fifth stance of Valerie).3. 50m 17Up to crack system. Swap into L crack after a few metres, then wall above (no pro) to L-leading sickle. Follow this, then R to grassy ledge at base of thin crack.4. 30m 22Beautiful crack and corner to belay in alcove just below detached pinnacle on R.5. 30m 22Left wall to ledge (no belay possible). Boldly up R to prominent crack in roof. Through this, then L along cracks to ledge. (Pitches 4 and 5 led as one pitch on FA.)6. 45m 15Cracks near arête to ledge.7. 60m 18Right crack, then easier ground past ledges to stance below steepening.8. 40m 20Steep crack to summit.

Simon Mentz, Steve Monks (alt) 6 Mar 1995

The Sydney Route Direct Start

★60m14

This is the preferred start by most parties as the original start is very vegetated. On top of the grassy buttress directly below the route proper. A belay sling can be threaded between a block and the foot of the wall.1. 27m 13Trend L up the obvious line to a good chock belay on a ledge.2. 33m 14Continue up the line, still tending L , move out on to the L wall about halfway up. Belay on a good ledge at the top of the wall. Move R over easy ground to the large chimney. Belay at its top.Continue on pitch 3 of the Sydney Route.

Bryden Allen, Reg Williams, alt. leads, Feb 1972.

The Sydney Route

★★★380m16

One of the most popular climbs at Frenchmans Cap, originally known as "A toi la Gloire" (Thine is the Glory). It was the first route up the main face of Frenchmans Cap. See Figs 2 and 3. Despite the comparatively easy finish, the route has great character, especially in the middle pitches which are sustained and culminate in the superb rising traverse - "L'escalier du Diable" or "Stairway of the Devil". The rock, for the most part, is of excellent quality. Protection is reasonable.Walk a little up the main scree couloir below the South-East Face. From near its base scramble up to the R to the foot of a very vegetated crack just left of a small buttress. Bollard belay here.1. 36mMove straight up the crack then up the vegetated, greasy ramp leading R to a belay.2. 36mTraverse easily to the R over much vegetation and behind blocks to the foot of a large chimney with a sloping floor of loose rocks. Walk up this, behind the flake, and belay at the top of the chimney. This chimney is a good landmark. The climb proper starts here.3. 18mMove diagonally L and up across the wall to a terrace covered in loose rock, nut belay.4. 36mMove diagonally up to the R , across a line and on to a small stance. Belay to a piton (missing as of 2018) at the foot of a detached pinnacle.5. 24mClimb up and slightly L into chimney to a ledge at 12m. L along ledge the up the overhanging wall above and just L of a slight corner is climbed on bad rock (the worst of which is easily avoidable) to a ledge and a bollard belay.6. 30mMove slightly up R into the chimney. Bridge up this (very exposed) with some delicate moves until it is possible to pull onto the right hand arete. Traverse R and up the face to a stance and a piton (rust stain still visible as of 2018) belay.7. 30mMove up to a crack in the corner on the R. Jam and bridge up this past a piton runner and then a cracker. Continue this superb, sustained pitch past a ledge on L and belay 6m higher.8. 30mLimited protection on this pitch, small wires. Traverse 6-9m L around a buttress into the next groove. Climb this line, moving up the face where necessary, near the top a substantial ledge will be reached. Move to a good belay on top of a block 3m higher up.9. 21mThe crux, named "L'escalier du Diable". Move diagonally upward across the smooth, vertical LH wall to reach a small ledge on the arête high on the L. Belay on the ledge, using a small, pointed knob augmented by cams lower down. Note: This pitch can be continued around the corner to a better belay stance at the risk of rope jamming, and with the possibility of an awkward situation if the second man were to fall and require help.10. 33mTraverse delicately, down and L, into the big exit chimney. Climb easily up the chimney.11. 30mContinue up the chimney, R and up large boulder.12. 30mContinue up the chimney, then climb out on to a large boulder.13. 30mScramble easily up grass and. rocks on to the summit slope.

Bryden Allen, Jack Pettigrew, 7 Jan 1965. The ascent took about 10 hours. On two days, prior to the climb, they reconnoitered 900ft of the route. Fixed ropes were left on the lower access pitch, but not on the climb proper.

The Melbourne Variant

★370m16

The variant leaves the original route on pitch 8 and rejoins it later in the exit chimney (pitch 11).1-7As original route.8. 22m 14Begin an awkward and very exposed traverse around to the L to a slight groove at 6m. Here the variant leaves the original route. Traverse a further 9m to a corner, down around to the L, then into a small stance and belay in next line (blocked 15m up by an enormous overhang).9. 24m 15Move diagonally up to the L for 5m to a tiny flake runner. Traverse L around the arête(crux) on awkward small holds. Now climb 9m up the wall to a stance on the L and piton runner. Then straight up to a good belay ledge.10. 27m 15Climb 5m up to the rotten corner on the L and mantleshelf (piton runner). Traverse delicately R to the foot of an overhanging crack (chockstone runner). Jam up this dirty crack on poor rock and then up a wall to mantleshelf on to a ledge with moss and loose blocks. Nut runner in L crack above. Jam and bridge around the mossy overhang and up to a nut belay in the chimney.11. 36m 13During this pitch the variant rejoins the original route of Allen and Pettigrew (Jan '65). The large overhanging chockstone is by-passed on the R wall, then easy climbing leads to a good belay.12-13As for original route.

C Baxter, C. Dewhirst, 19 Feb 1968.

Brisbane Line

300m+18+

1. 45m 17Start as for Sydney Route Direct Start but go up L.2. 35mAs for SR. Scramble over boulders to R, then ramp behind block.3. 25m 15Up out of chimney, then vegetated ramp to top. Go up and trend slightly R. Belay on ledge which slopes up R at top.4. 35m 18Up from belay to runner - make it a good one, it may be your last. Traverse up R to crack, then up R of detached pillar and belay behind this. (Some old gear may be in evidence here.)5. 30m 14Directly across L on good traverse. Up to chimney. Belay above blocks perched in cracks.6-9As for SR except start pitch six a little higher.10. 50m 11Angle up L of good holds into chimney, then up to "landing pad".11. 30m 14Chimney, heading R into other chimneys. Continue to mega-stance.12. 50m 8Step out on L wall. After a few moves stand up and run across pasture. Take L gully to top.13.Wander up gully to summit.

Dayle Gilliatt, Phil Dolan, 14 Feb 1989.

The East Face

Beneath the right-hand boundary of the face is an enormous pointed gendarme (500ft+) called Terray's Tower. The old "North-East Passage" and "Fleur-De-Lis" lie to the north of the Tower. "Waterloo Road" and "Napoleon" are on the south side. "Conquistador" is in the middle of the East Face.

East Face topo by Gerry Narkowicz 135. The Great Flake 370m 22 136. The Lorax 385m 20 137. Conquistador 360m 20

The Plum Line

★★★390m26

The best line on the cliff and one of the best adventure climbs in Australia. It follows the face immediately right of the arête and then up the prominent prow at the left edge of the main face. Established ground Up. Suggested rack: double set cams from 0.1 to #3 camalot, double set wires essential (inc.a few RP’s), double ropes essential, 1 x removable hanger for pitch 5, a few small offset cams are also handy.

Start at the lowest point of the main face where a 5m arrow shaped pillar sits. This is 50m down and left of the start of the De Gaulle’s nose climb.

1. 50m 22(this is out of image, so not shown on topo above) Up the pillar then step right towards the R to L rising crack. Up to roof, R around this, left past FH, and up weakness to rooflet. Straight up past two more bolts then trend rightwards through run out moderate climbing for last 10m toward a stance and double BB.

2. 30m 15Follow the line of least resistance up the left ramp, then back right and up. Head horizontally rightwards on terraces 8m to bushy ledge (aiming to be directly below left hand end of clean, light coloured quartzite face). Belay is a # 0.75 Camalot and a FH.

3. 35m 25De Gaulles Underpants’ pitch - Technical climbing on superb rock. Head straight up grooves till you reach the immaculate quartzite band. A sustained bouldery series of moves provides the crux. The rock then changes; juggy but runout climbing leads up with a step right at the steeper section. Belay at the pedestal stance (at the wide R to L diagonal crack).

4. 15m 21Step down and right from the pedestal to a slight depression that leads up a weakness on the face. Mediocre gear up this for 6m until a FH, then a thin crux and straight up to belay at small ledge.

5. 45m 24‘The Diamond Face’ pitch- (originally climbed by AD and GL as part of De Gaulles Nose Direct in 2008). A remarkable, sustained pitch up the best piece of rock on the whole cliff. Head up towards the left of two shallow V groves for 8m, then traverse right through a juggy weakness to the next groove aiming for a large horn. Note a piton was added in the next section by someone retreating (to be removed). Up steep corner above FH, then breach rooflet to a small stance beside BR. Funky moves up and left (FH), then enjoy the exposure and head boldly left then up the blank face for 8m to sloping ledge/ramp. Good belay at the top of the ramp on left.

6. 30m 26‘The Big Boss’. Full value! Up the left of 2 corners, past FH, then traverse R using sloping horn to next groove, up this with hard moves thru roof FH, then left across hanging face to FH, and then to hanging belay on arête in a magnificent position.

7. 18m 23‘The Ooh La La’ pitch - Superb climbing up improbable terrain with excellent gear. Pass the roof on the left and head straight into shallow steep corner on the arête. Step right where the corner meets the arete and up bridging corner for 4m to small ledge in corner.

8. 50m 20‘The Incredible Corner’ pitch - The obvious hanging corner which is visible from Barron Saddle Pass. Bust up the corner with great gear until a stance on left arête beckons and the corner steepens. Step left of arête and up obvious crack in left face to a good ledge (‘Bug Ledge’, don’t belay here as there’s no gear off the ledge for 15m). Continue up G 15 slab (no good gear) trending towards the large sloping terrace on right arête.

9. 25m 18From here the route shares the same finishing pitches as ‘De Gaulles Nose’ and the character of climbing changes to run out and challenging route finding with some no fall terrain. Up slabby arete (runout), then up easy but runout wall heading slightly leftwards to the big grassy ledge. Belay on left side with #2 and #3 Camelot.

10. 45m 19A runout pitch that requires a careful approach. Up groove on left side of ledge then trend rightwards following the easiest path to a wide rock ledge. Gear for belay is 5m above the ledge.

11. 45m 18Another runout pitch. Head up on the right side of the left arete. It’s possible to use gear on the right side and climb the easier slabby left side for a section. Then trend rightwards through weakness to the final exit.

Adam Donoghue, Hamish Jackson & Gareth Llewellin 2020

De Gaulles Nose

★★★300m23

The De Gaulles Nose feature is the prominent overhang high on the prow. Much of this route actually lies on the steep, dark terraine to the left of the prow, largely out of view in most topos of the SE face. Note that the topo for this climb in Climb Tasmania (2013 ed) is incorrect and instead represents DGN Direct. The climb has seen very few repeats due the reputation of the crux pitch, but it has been regarded as one of Australia’s best adventure climbs - 'A serious but very rewarding climb'. Start 50m R of the arête at the top of vegetated ramps and below an obvious wide corner (to reach this point requires a 50m scramble in from the right).1. 50m 21(a fusion of the original two pitches described by Carrigan). Up wide corner, which is easier and better protected by climbing the right arete for the first 10m. Continue up following moss filled cracks that steepen and provide good old-fashioned honest climbing. Exit this pitch via loose blocks on to a left leading ramp and a good belay can be found at a stance out L of the top of the ramp.2. 15m 21Head right across face for 3m to small stance at base of a subtle weakness on face. Follow this straight up with good moves, past fixed hanger to belay at stance with good gear. Note that there is some confusion regarding this pitch, as there is a crack heading left up the arete from the belay atop pitch one, which better fits the description given by Carrigan in Adventures ATEOT World - ie after their failed attempt at the face and corners right of the arete.3. 50m 23Head L around arête to crack. Up past roof and up overhanging crack to ramp. Finally up crack on L to large ledge. No gear on ledge but a good belay can be found just off L end.4. 50m 21From belay head R then trend back L following weakness and over small overlap. From here a few corners lead upwards with sustained difficulties and vigilance for protection before heading R on an exposed face toward the huge flake. Belay in back of flake.5. 50m 17Head R to arête and then more easily up in a great position on good rock to the large ledge.6. 40m 18Up front of buttress following weakness to another spacious ledge.7. 45m 17Up the arête, following your nose R then up the exit.

Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead (var), 31 Jan 1983.

De Gaulles Nose Direct

★★★55m24

An aesthetic direct alternative to the third pitch of the original De Gaulles Nose route. Tackling one of the best sections of rock on the whole face, bloody awesome climbing on bullet-proof quartzite with exposure to die for. This was the pitch originally tried by the first ascent party and although harder it’s less death defying than the original. The gear requires some time and creativity to get something decent in but is quite good throughout. Climb DGN to the top of pitch 2 described herein.3a. 45m 25Head straight up the L of two shallow vertical corners for about 8-10m with good gear before the climbing and gear potential send you out R to the second corner. Up this corner with increasing difficulty in gear, climbing and the building feeling of ‘out-thereness’! A welcome rest and FH provide a pause before heading up to the rooflet (there is an old rivet with hanger in the short corner L from here which is from a previous attempt, this should be removed as it’s not on the route and not needed) head around rooflet to a BR at the stance (from an earlier attempt by Steve Monks). Then up to the final FH before breaking out L on small edges, then up blank face towards the thin crack, then up to sloping ledge and ramp. Easily left up ramp to good belay on on left side of sloping ledge.3b. 10m 18To connect to the original from here head up crack above belay for 6m until it leads you out to the large ledge on the arête. This is the belay ledge of the original route. Head across the ledge (no gear) for 8m until you get to some gear off the L edge of ledge (hanging belay).

Adam Donoghue, Gareth Llewellin, 1 Mar 2008.

The Great Flake

★★★370m22

The obvious flake part way up the East Face. Kim had eyed off this line on a previous visit, and came suitably prepared - with a set of 10 tube chocks and a couple weeks worth of food. Start at the corner below and to the R of the flake. Recommended big gear 1 x #4, 2 or 3 x #5, 1 x #6.1. 90mUp to foot of corner.2. 25m 16Corner to ledge on L.3. 40m 20L for 8 m then up to shallow corner. Up to small stance. BB.4. 40m 20Up flake (loose flakes). Follow ramp to foot of corner.5. 40m 19Up corner to roof. Undercling then up off-width chimney to bulge (big cams). R onto face and up to sloping ledge. A #5 is needed for the belay.6. 40m 22Round roof then off-width to bulge (big cams). R and up to shallow corner on arete. R for 5m.7. 21m 21Up corner for 5m. L for 8m into next corner. Up to ledge and piton belay.8. 40m 18Up short slab to top. Up wall to ledge. R to avoid roof then L to shallow corner.9. 30m 18Roof and corner to ledge. R for 5m then up.

Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Lees, 29 Jan 1982. (ground-up with no falls!)

The Lorax

★★★385m20

A classic route up middle of the East Face. It links the right-leading corner level with the upper half of The Great Flake with a thin crack line in the middle of the face via a wild traverse. A good apprenticeship for the harder Frenchmans routes. Most of the hard bits have good gear nearby, though the same cannot be said for the rest of the route.

1. 60mClimb the easy ramps/vegetation to the highest grassy ramp below the East Face (bollard belay).1. 55mDiagonally L up ramps for 5m. Up wall to the L of the ledge, with cryptic gear.2. 50mUp 5m then L and up 10m to the contact of steep white rock with the black rock. Diagonally R to find a ledge and bollard belay, approx. 25m below Bus-stop Ledge. This is shown 10 m too low on the East Face topo.3. 35m 20Traverse 10m L to small black cave. Up difficult overhanging finger crack (good gear) to top of R-leading corner. It is also possible to belay 4m below small black cave at a good ledge and good belay.4. 50mTraverse 15m L along obvious 'ledge'. Up leaning corner to ledge on L wall. (Note this traverse is marked too low on the topo. Actual ledge is the faint grey ribbon, trending downwards, just above the marked line.)5. 37mStep R round arête to large ledge. Up juggy wall and short, steep hand-crack to ledge below big black corner of Conquistador. Holiday gear.6. 38m 19Up 5m then L 6m. Up short, vague, bottomless corner with difficulty (good gear) and wall above for 6m. L for 7m then up corner to ledge R of deep cleft. Protection sparse.7. 40m 18From L of ledge up wall for 4m (crux). Step L and up corner. Pass small roof to gain ledge below black, mossy corner. Step up and R round arête. Traverse easily R to top of small chimney.

Peter Steane, Garn Cooper (alt), Feb 1988.

Lorax Pitch 3 Alternate - The Sucker Pitch

40 m22

Belay: Finish Lorax pitch 2 (the third pitch) on top of a 1 meter cubed boulder at base of a short section of chimney in the corner system. This is as shown on the topo.

3a.45m 22 Down climb 2 m and traverse left along foot ledge in slightly overhung ground for 6 m. Climb up to level with the belay and gear. Climb direct up gently overhung wall above with gear in crack. Rejoin the original crux pitch just before the black cave. A more direct traverse was climbed in the past but some holds for this have come off.

FA: A litany of suckers FFA: Ben Maddison? 2019

The Lorax-Conquistador Connection

55m19

A worthwhile link pitch-and-a-bit from the top of pitch 3 of The Lorax to pitch 9 of Conquistador. Start: climb the first 3 pitches of The Lorax.1. 45m 19Instead of traversing L head up R past some loose flakes and a terrific corner.2. 10mContinue up the neat little wall on the R to join Conquistador at the big long ledge.

Pete Steane, Colin Moorhead, Jan 1997.

Conquistador

★★★360m20

"Perhaps Australia's greatest climb, a serious undertaking" (in 1979, but its still serious!) Start: Line of weakness directly below the LH end of the big ledge halfway up the face. (See Figure 2).1. 36mBelay on big ledge beneath a steep corner.2. 36mClimb the corner and move slightly R to a good ledge and belay.3. 36mClimb slightly R and straight up to a good belay on top of a block in a corner.4. 15mMove up with difficulty on to good holds and then traverse L for 12m to another good ledge and belay.5. 36mClimb the wall directly above (steep) to a small piton belay in the wall.6. 42mClimb the corner above (very loose rock) and belay on "Bus Stop Ledge" (bivouac on first ascent).7. 27mFinger-traverse L for 5m to the start of the corner above. Climb corner and bolt belay 3m below the V-chimney (piton rests on this stretch on the FA).8. 36mUp the overhanging V-chimney for 24m then continue using mixed free and/or artificial techniques to a long ledge. Belay to piton.9. 36mMove along the ledge and layback up the corner to a big ledge at 24m. Continue climbing the corner above and move on to a small ledge on the R wall to piton.10. 42mStraight up then R and up the wall (delicate) to a small ledge on the top of a detached block. Traverse diagonally L for 6m on to a ledge and piton belay (in place).11. 24mCrux. Up to the loose blocks, and L then back R with improving protection. (Note: it has been said that this pitch is closer to 22 than 20. Aided at M5 on the FA).

C. Dewhirst, D. Neilson, I. Ross, 5-6 Jan 1972. FFA David Jenkins, Rohan Hyslop (alt), Lucy Collaery, Feb 1990.

Conquistador Variants

19,M1

1-4As for Conquistador to start of traverse on pitch 4.5a.Don't traverse 12m L but go straight up loose flakes to top of large flake directly below Bus-stop Ledge. PR.6a.Descend other side of flake for 3m and up groove for 13m. Traverse 6m L on ledges then up 5m to L end of Bus-stop Ledge.7-9As for Conquistador.10aTo avoid the final dripping overhangs, go diagonally R to a large grassy ledge below line of weakness through roofs. (Original final pitch is on L.)11aExtremely loose, wet and dangerous. ('Probably the worst pitch I've ever climbed.' Fantini.) Up blank corner above ledge. PR. Tension L to horrible corner. Up roof. Exit R on wet rock and huge loose blocks.

Simon Parsons, John Fantini (var), 29 Dec 1983 .

Death and Transfiguration

130m19 M1

Follow Fantini/Parsons variant of Conquistador (or other route/variant) until 6m diagonally R below Bus Stop Ledge.1. 40m 19Prominent line just R of belay, then step R round arête at chossy steepening at about 33m. Up, then back L to seat sized belay ledge. Mediocre belay.2. 30m 19Up 3m, then L to stance. L into corner, then up this (free at first, then rests and aid moves). Veer R to belay at chossy horizontal below many roofs, above and out from belayer.3. 15m(Aid equal crux) Reach up R to clip in situ #2 SLCD. Tension R round arête, then aid and easy free moves to ledge on R. Up 3m to horizontal, belay.4. 45mScuttle R to join North East Passage at beginning of its final pitches.

Peter Steane, Garn Gooper (alt), 25 Dec 1994.

Waterloo Road

★310m16

The first half of this route follows the corner between Terray's Tower and the East Face. (Figure 2.) The upper section of the route is on the edge of the East Face itself. There has been some discussion as to whether this part of the climb corresponds with the upper section of the North East Passage Route. As there is no practical way of resolving this issue, the controversy is best forgotten. The following description is from "Argus". This magnificent route follows the huge corner formed where Terray's Tower meets the East Face. It is in perpetual shade and is usually wet; the lower pitches tending to be grassy and mossy. The climb is sustained. Start: Climb up the greasy walls to the grassy ledge below the R end of the East Face. Move along this to the foot of the diedre.1. 48m 13Up the gully to the mossy overhang. Using the R crack jam and bridge around it and past two poor pitons in place (legacy of earlier reccy). Continue up the chimney past an abseil sling and up to a small cave at 33m. Move R to a ledge and piton belay (in place).2. 33m 15Bridge up past the mossy bulge (nut runner) and then move L around the overhang. Continue up the line to a nut runner and move up L around the overhanging nose. Climb up to a ledge on the R wall at 27m. Traverse delicately left (piton runner in place) and awkwardly up a small corner past a piton runner and up to a small ledge and nut belay.3. 27m 14Straight up the line above, past a ledge, then up more steeply past a chockstone runner to a very wet stance and chockstone belay below the mossy overhang with the jammed perlon sling.4. 30m 14Make an exposed move on to the R wall and continue the diagonal traverse up to the R. Move up to a ledge then climb diagonally up to the L (delicate) back into the main line. Continue more easily up to a small stance and nut belay at the foot of a wet chimney.5. 27m 13Climb the chimney, using the crack and facing right past a nut runner to where it narrows and steepens (nut runner). Bridge up on small holds and move up the L wall to a good ledge and block belay.6. 24m 15Climb up on bad, wet rock in the corner; then at 6m move onto the R wall (poor piton runner). Move up diagonally R on very small holds and enter the crack (nut runner). Jam up this to a chockstone runner and then layback around the slight overhang. Continue up the crack to the col behind Terray's Tower. An escape to the R is possible here.7. 30m 15Move easily down and to the R for 5m. Climb the strenuous narrow chimney to a small nut runner. Move up R to a small stance and bollard runner. Then L into the crack (loose holds). Jam up this to the overhang (piton runner). Jam past this and move L across the lip. Jam and chimney up the line, around the overhang to the top. Nut belay on big ledge.8. 26m 11From the R end of the ledge move up the obvious ramp to the L and then along the obvious easy traverse back to the R. Up a step to a good ledge and bad belays.9. 36m 16Very serious lead with no runners and poor belays. Move straight up above the belay quite easily, then straight up very delicately (crux) to a psychological belay on a small bush10. 36m 12No runners. Climb straight up for 8m then traverse R for 5m to a break in the wall above. Climb up this on sloping holds, then more easily on to a large grassy terrace and poor bollard belay. Scramble up wall behind to top.

C. Baxter, C. Dewhirst P, Stranger, J. Veasey, 12 February 1968

Waterloo Road Direct

★★300m16

A more direct and obvious finish to Waterloo Road. It continues the line on the wall to the L of Terray's Tower Col.1-5As for Waterloo Road.6. 15mClimb the wide crack in the LH corner to a large pinnacle. Belay on good ledge.7. 39mContinue straight up the line and belay on a large grassy ledge.8. 39mFollow the line straight up moving L on to a ledge at the start of left-curving crack. Belay.9. 45mFollow the curving crack to a large green ledge then another 50ft straight up the wall to top.

R. Pauligk, P. Canning (alt), 30 Jan 1972.

Napoleon

150m15

On the Waterloo Road side of Terray's Tower a number of cracks can be seen diverging R from Waterloo Road and running up to the top of the tower. "Napoleon" is the largest and furthest R of these.1. 36mAs for Waterloo Road.2. 12mClimb up and traverse right under large block. Belay on large ledge level with the top of block.3. 8mClimb wall and belay in base of chimney (cave).4. 33mClimb chimney and belay under roof.5. 36mTraverse right, climb wall and belay beneath small overhang.6. 18mStep right, climb juggy wall to top. Belay on block on top of tower.

P. Canning, A. Richardson, 1972.

The Ninth of January

★★160m19

Follows the obvious flake on the face until it traverses on to the arête. It starts at a R-tending crack in the gully R of Terrays Tower. Run out through the traverse. Still the best protected 19 on the massif.1. 16 40mUp crack for 15 m. Traverse 6 m L then up to below flake. Semi hanging belay.2. 19 25mCrux. Up flake and over bulge. Leave flake and traverse 7m L. Up and back R.3. 15 40mOver to arête and up to bushy platform.4. 16 55mL and up front of tower. Up bottomless chimney. Finish on top of the tower.5. 4 10mTraverse (walk) to back to tower. Abseil into gully to join Fleur-de-Lis for expedient topout. Alternatively, if you have time, join Waterloo Road at Pitch 7. This offers four more pleasant and well protected pitches.

Peter Steane, Garn Cooper (alt), 27 Feb 1986.

Ninth of January - Pikers Variant

25 m17

Makes the whole route 17 and frankly a lot less intimidating. Recommended variant for your average Arapilian. Belays are as for original.

2a. 17 25mUp flake and over bulge. Follow flake to where it ends, and place bomber thin-hands sized cams for a high runner. Down climb 2 m and traverse right 3 meters on flat holds. Climb up to barely above the high gear and finger sized cams. Continue up cracks/flakes and traverse back left to rejoin original line at the second belay.

M. Johnston; Je Roen 2019

Fleur-de-lis

★210m14

The route is on the north side of Terray's Tower, somewhere in the vicinity of the first section of the North East Passage. Start: In the second gully L of the Tahune Face are two chimneys. The climb starts at the foot of the L one.1. 33mCrux. Climb the chimney to where it starts to overhang. Traverse out along the L wall and make an awkward step around into the thin crack on the L . Jam up the crack to a small stance and spike belay.1a. 13Climb completely in the fine crack on the L wall of the chimney, more enjoyable than the gully.2. 24mContinue up crack for a few more feet and traverse delicately across the wall on the R into the chimney. Bridge up this to a good ledge and nut belay.3. 34mTraverse L over very loose blocks then up into the next line to the L. Climb up R on appalling rock to the arête. Piton belay here on the good ledge among the blocks.4. 34mMove up diagonally L into the chimney. Follow this around the huge chockstones to a ledge on the R. Swing across the line and pull up the thin crack on the L wall on to a bushy ledge. Move up a series of small corners a little to the L and past a small spike runner and up to a small stance and sturdy bushes for a belay slightly on the R.5. 24mTraverse 3m L, then up the superb wall on small sound holds to a big bushy ledge below the final section of Terray's Tower.6. 21mMove easily to the R along the bushy ledge to the foot of a prominent chimney.7. 30mFollow the chimney up past the huge chockstones and where it overhangs to the R, move onto the R wall (nut runner). Move up and finish the chimney over chockstone, and exit on the R.8. 12mStraight up to the col behind Terray's Tower. Traverse down to the R into the broad gully, and scramble up a hundred metres or so (past a cool arch) until the angle relents, then follow your nose to the walking track.

C. Baxter, J. Fahey, 15th Feb 1968. 1a) P. Jacobs, P. Treby, 1972.

North East Passage

300m16

The route description given below, taken from the late Tahune log, is vague but of considerable historic interest. Old pitons found in the upper reaches of "Waterloo Road Direct" in later years verify the ascent up the East Face. It was a remarkable effort considering the equipment of the times. General Description: To the north of huge chockstone in the second gully south of the col between Epaullette Ridge and the Tahune Face - the start is here. The chockstone is a prominent feature. The gully is usually wet. Climb up the RH side of the chockstone on an enormous 'curved flake'; then through a 'cave' formed by the chockstone and up on to the top of the flake. Then traverse (from quite high up) across to Terray's Tower. Climb to the summit of the Tower, at one stage using a crack below and to the L of the roofs. From the top of tower climb up face (East Face). Pitches are as follows:1. 18mOne tricky move.2. 24mEasy, but rock rotten. Through the 'cave'.3. 12mBear L from the cave and on to a wide terrace.4.Traverse (level) southwards around buttress above chockstone, into subsidiary gully.5.Continue traverse (level). Tricky.6. 30mStraight up north side of Terray's Tower. Wet.7. 24mContinue up to col behind Terray's Tower; involves a layback.8. 12mFrom col, move R, and up to belay stance.9. 36mClimb block at RH end. Traverse L to face.10. 27mStraight up to a good stance.11. 18mThe crux. Named 'F.B. Pitch'. Description - Neolithic belay. Continue up crack.12. 30mTraverse L across face, then up.13.To summit plateau.

R. Lidstone, P. Sands. Easter 1962. (The climb was started in the afternoon, so a bivouac was necessary after pitch 9.)

Tahune Face

Tahune Face topo by Gerry Narkowicz 138. The Ninth of January 160m 19 139. Tierry le Fronde 150m 16

Corner Left of Tierry le Fronde

1.As for Tierry le Fronde2. 17Diagonally up left to foot of corner (sometimes wet) and up it to niche.3.Exit left and climb crack and flake to grassy terrace.4. 18Up left to roof-crack (#4 SLCD). Up and over on right. Veer up.

L. Scott 1992.

Tierry le Fronde

★★★150m16

The left arête of the Tahune Face offers this superb and improbable looking climb with its bristling overhangs. Start: Scramble up for approximately 200ft in the first gully below and left of the Tahune Face, move left on to the top of a buttress below the face and beneath an obvious crack. Belay here.1. 30m 15Climb the wall to the start of a crack, continue up this to a belay on a loose ledge overlooking the gully between Terray's Tower and the Tahune Face.2. 24m 15Move up and around left, then straight up cracks to a small stance on arete. Continue straight up the crack for another 12m to a small ledge and a spike belay.3. 27m 16Sustained. Follow the line upward, through a small roof, then crack above to a belay on the arête just above a faint weakness that traverses left.4. 27m 16Back down 1m to then traverse left with difficulty for 6m then move directly up an easier series of walls for 15m to a good horizontal ledge. Move 6m right along ledge round nose to belay in comer, directly below line through roofs.5. 29m 16Climb up and right through the series of roofs to the Summit.

P. Stranger, C. Dewhirst, (alt), 15 Feb 1968.

TLF No Pants Variant

★25m22

Climbs the prominent roof crack, worth climbing for the technical movement with 130m exposure. Some loose rock and seep detract from the overall quality. Roof is visible on left side of arete above P3/4. From TLF P4 following the 6m rightwards traverse, climb direct up an easy corner gained before rounding the nose. Trend left to Hanging belay just below the roof crack. A bomber #3 protects the bouldery crux at the lip. Belay above roof and continue up well protected and easy off-width for 20m.

Michael Lehmann, Lachlan Short, Grace Bloom, 12 January 2021.

Tierry le Fronde Alternate Start

45m16

Alternative start: Climb the rock buttress immediately below the first pitch. A good 45m pitch which is better than the gully start. This pitch takes the more slabby R side of the buttress (where as the direct start takes front of buttress until half height, where it too joins the slabbier face).

Dec 1975

Tierry le Fronde pitch 4 Direct Variant

★25m17

Avoids the two traverses. 4a. 25m. Up overhang on arête and wall above.

Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 3 Mar 1984.

TLFDS.

Tierry le Fronde Direct Start

★65m19

From the very lowest point on buttress below Tierry le Fronde walk 10-15m R up scree slope past overhangs to prominent, brown, mossy ledge. Belay here.1. 40m 19Up L (no pro) to L side of roof at 5m (small SLCD under roof). Good moves past L side of roof to easy ground left of grassy slope. Head up to base of beautiful, smooth, slightly overhanging 5m wall split by vertical crack. Climb this (crux at top) to easy steps which lead to large ledge.2. 25m 10Step R on to arête and follow it tending L to top of buttress. From here walk 20m across top of buttress to start of Tierry le Fronde.

Dayle Gilliatt, Phil Dolan, 15 Feb 1989.

Bastards Benediction

★60m21

Climbs the nose of the 50 m high buttress at the base of TLF. Start 15m left of the toe of the buttress on top of boulder.1. 30m 17Rising traverse 5m right on good face holds to jug which can be slung for runner. Continue up shallow corners above and right onto arête with wires in thin crack. Crux of the pitch is here above reliable gear. Belay on good ledge on arête.2. 30m 21Traverse right around the corner below rooflet to purple C4 in horizontal. Head up through flakes to stance below rooflet. Traverse left under rooflet, to be turned on the left. Finish up corner above. This worthwhile second pitch can also be climbed from the first belay of TLF Direct Start. Takes a few micro cams.

M. Johnston, P. Pietruschka 2014

Cold-Steel Dawn

★★★97m18

Improbable at the grade. Good climb with impressive situations and atmosphere. Takes good gear. Climbs roofs and corners on L side of Tahune Face, and joins Tierry le Frond at start of pitch four. From start of Tierry le Frond solo small pinnacle to grassy ledge 10m above grassy terraces.1. 42m 18Up TF for 10m, then R line, passing L end of roof, to corner below overhang. Steeply R round arête, and up R to small V-slot below roof.2. 35m 18Step R on to wall. Up corner to next roof. Traverse L below roof (rope drag), and step round arête. Up to ledge. Up thin hand-crack to ledge at foot of L- leading ramp.3. 20mEasily up ramp to TF.

Doug Fife, Peter Steane (alt), Jan 1993.

Ground Rush

★★165m20

The first route entirely on the Tahune face proper. Finishes up the big corner through the roofs that cap the face. Start as for Cold-Steel Dawn.1 & 2. 77mClimb the first two pitches of Cold-Steel Dawn.3. 20mTraverse R a few metres and climb loose line to belay at roof just L and below main corner through roofs. You may find a fixed hex.The next two pitches involve 30 metres of climbing with a net gain of two or three verticle metres and about five horizontal metres. On future ascents it might be better to break out half way up pitch 1 to join the crux of pitch 2, thus eliminating the down-climb.4. 20mThe Colinstoisser Traverse. Traverse 4m right and place some runners. Climb down about 6m below choss. Diagonally up R on small face holds to horizontal (crux). Traverse R and go up to stance under roof at beginning of leftwards traverse.5. 8mTraverse airily L to foot of corner.6. 40mUp the corner for a few metres, then traverse R to ledge on nose. Up face and corner to top.

Pete Steane, Colin Moorhead (alt), 11 Jan 1997.

Deceptive Gully

120m12

Start: There is a large 100ft+ high block forming the base of the Tahune Face, directly below the roofs. Locate a shallow gully running up the southern end of this block (see Figure 2). Beware loose rocks.1. 48mUp the shallow gully.2.Scramble and walk to the right (north) over the top of the block to its northern end.3. 15mAscend the wide chimney (gully) running up the RH side of the Tahune Face, Belay in small alcove.4. 12mFrom alcove bridge upwards for a few feet, climb wall on right to a small nose. Swing leftwards around this and belay above. Alternatively keep up strenuous wet crack from alcove.5.Continue up past chockstones.6.Finish up neat wall on right to emerge on a broad platform abutting the northern edge of the Tahune Face.

J. Fairhall, M. Douglas, 1962.

Deceptive Gully Direct Start

120m14

Leads from the foot of the cliff directly to pitch 3 of original route.

V. Kennedy, P. Stranger, 1968.

Eco-Facist

★80m19

Arête, corner right of Deceptive Gully. 1. 35m. Up from 3m R of arête (near small King Billy pine), then L to arête. Arête until 3m below roofs, then traverse R 8m to small, sloping ledge, then up. Traversing in from DG would make grade about 15.

Peter Steane, Roxanne Wells (alt), 23 Jan 1995.

Shame of the Warrior

130m18

Takes the black chimney visible from Tahune Hut.1. 18m 18Up obvious crack to two bulges. Semi-HB at second bulge.2. 18m 18L under overhang. Up 12 m. R to large ledge.3. 16m 18Up chossy chimney to black hole. No 4 Friend belay.4. 40m 14Out R then diagonally L and up (good holds) to 30 m. R to ledge.5. 35m 16Up crack as it fades. Tend L to grassy ledge (little protection). On the same trip it is believed Hairsine and Walton may have climbed something else further R of SW but it doesn't appear to have been recorded.

Peter Hairsine, Richard Walton, 27 Dec 1987.

Inspector Clouseau

27m17

On first main buttress 80-100m East of North Col. Start left of vegetated cracks forming a V, directly below clean, right facing corner. Up to short, clean, right facing corner on L of overhangs. Up and step left to arête.

Michael Murphy, Mark Poustie, 2 Jan 1991.

Pleasant Dreams

★45m15

About 150 metres L of the North Col, viewed from the track up from Lake Tahune and slightly above the level of the Col is a lovely clean little face. To reach it, climb up the "new" walking track to the wooden signpost ("Summit-Lake Tahune") where the track steepens considerably. The start is about 25 metres toward the Col. 1. 45m. Up easily for 30 metres to an obvious one metre roof. Pass it on the L (crux). No runners after overhang.

Kim Robinson, Phil Robinson, 7 Feb 1998.

Robinsons Ramble

55m15

From the wooden signpost (approx 150-200 metres from the North Col) where the walking track steepens up to the Cap itself, walk up the track toward the summit for approx. 150 metres. There is a huge hanging Slab on the L with a short black wall under it.1. 30m 10Up the black wall for about 8 metres to the horizontal crack under the slab. (Straight up could be grade 25-ish?) Traverse L 15 metres across a rocky couloir to a ledge on the arête and belay around the corner.2. 25m 15Up ridge to a short steep crack(crux).

Kim Robinson, Phil Robinson (alt), 7 Feb 1998.

25kg Of Pain For 25 Seconds Of Pleasure

12m21

Overhanging rock a few metres above wooden signpost ("Summit-Lake Tahune"), approx. 25 metres left of ''Pleasant Dreams". The climb eases after the first 7-8 metres. 1. 12m. Up to the finger ledge, heel hook and go for it. Only one runner.

Kim Robinson, 7 Feb 1998.

North-West Wall

A large complex of faces, towers and buttresses. It has a sunny aspect. To reach the wall, go over the North Col and drop down towards Lake Gwendolen. Refer to figure 4.

Squeaky

★45m17

Head off from the North Col to ''La Grande pump". Before rounding the nose of a buttress to reach the ''Pump'' and ''Honeysuckle Divine'' there is a crack a few metres L of the nose. The crack faces the North Col and peters out after about 25 metres.1. 25mUp crack which is much steeper and more sustained than it looks. Some holds are hollow sounding. Good value.2. 20mEasier ground to the top.

Alan Williams, Vincent Day, 6 Feb 1998.

Honeysuckle Divine

33m15

Start: From the top of the North Col cliff is broken on west side by corner with blank face prominent. Wall on L of blank face is split by jagged crack which breaks L at 15 metres. Climb crack for 15 metres, move L (not easy) and climb continuation of crack which is overhanging and becomes off-width near the top.

J. Nelson, J. Grelis, 29 Dec 1977.

The Pawn of Doom

25m19

The flake 2m R of corner of Honeysuckle Divine. At rooflet at 10m head diagonally up L to join R-trending crack.

Colin Moorhead, Pete Steane 10 Jan 1997.

Topo by Gerry Narkowicz 140. La Grande Pump 60m 21

La Grande Pump

★★★60m21

Start R of Honeysuckle Divine and L of the roof which forms the L arête of an overhanging corner.1. 35m 21Bold and sparsely protected. Up R to vague curving flake and undercut arête. Up to hanging belay.2. 25m 21Up R of arête to white wall. Up this (exposed, spaced protection) to rest. L round arête and up (easier).

Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 4 Mar 1984.

The Enlightenment

★★48m21

The grade takes into account the wad-factor. It's the prominent diagonal line on the west-facing buttress above La Grande Pump. Start: Scramble/solo up R of LGP past the prominent L - leading arête undercut by the big overhung corner. The route takes the L - leading line a couple of metres R of the arête. 1. 48m. Step down and left from the belay, then up and follow line.

Pete Steane, Colin Moorhead, 10 Jan 1997.

Gwendolen Buttress (Ridge)

210m8

The first major buttress on the eastern end of the north-west wall (Fig 4). A long climb of nine pitches, and well broken with ledges and terraces. The route is separated from the Pillar Face by a deep couloir. It gives an excellent view of this face. About half-way up the buttress there is a large gendarme. This should be turned on the R. It has also been turned on the L (grade 13). The climb finishes on top of the steep, square shaped outcrop prominent from the North Col. The penultimate pitch is on a large prominent slab above arid to the R of the main spine of the buttress.

D. Cox, P. Sands, R. Hosking, Easter 1962.

Frog

50m16

Halfway along the north face of Gwendolen buttress is a faint suggestion of a crack line1. 25m 16Straight up the shallow crack system to a platform with a large horizontal crack (#3,#4 friend useful here).2. 25m 16Continue directly up bridging up a short overhanging corner then steeply up to flatten out to a platform just L of the vegetation.

David Rogers, Andrew Strickland, 29 Dec 1987.

Quatre-Vingt Huit (88)

85m16

The climb begins at a slightly protruding buttress 20m R of the large black gully crack about a third of the way across the N.E. Face from the North Col. A short buttress leads up to the start. There is a vegetated black crack on ?1. 40m 16Follow the front of the buttress for 20m until horizontal crack with vegetation is reached. Step R and finish the pitch laying back off the crack on the R of the front of the buttress. Walk up the steep ramp to belay beneath the overhanging corner.2. 45m 16Step R into the corner and bridge up for 10m to a vegetated ledge. ("bloody great pitch"). Move L and finish up the front of the buttress leading to the top.

David Rogers, Andrew Strickland, 31 Dec 1987.

Pillar Face

★★240m15

A complex face with many alternatives. (See Figure 4). Start: The gap between the lowest sweep of the Gwendolen Buttress and the base of the Pillar Face forms a rocky ravine. (Further R is Cox's Castle.) The climb commenced from the ravine not far to the L of the "Castle". The first 30m of face forms a noticeable convex bulge (crux). Climb for 15m, then traverse horizontally across bulge to the L, finally moving up again to a broad sloping platform at the top of the bulge (conspicuous hook-shaped patch of grass on RH edge). From platform continue vertically upwards for around 150m to the overhanging blocks barricading exit. A LH swerve in the line of ascent was made when a line of weakness through exit blocks was located. Note: Halfway up face is a peculiar line of pillars on a large platform.

D Cox, M. Douglas, 1962

Pillar Face Alternative 1

★★15

Across lowest platform on Gwendolen Ridge (buttress) On edge of drop into ravine leading down to Cox's Castle. Straight up.

C (B) Rathbone, P. Robinson, 1977

Pillar Face Alternative 2

★★15

10m L of 1977 start. Moves R on second pitch to join 1977 route then loses it again after comer pitch. Hard exit on RH side of Pillar Ledge (loose rock).

G. Kowalik, R. Mansfield, 1978

Cox's Castle

Comment from a 2011 party: “Probably worth mentioning that getting from Le Grand Pump to Cox's Castle is a quite a way downhill and best done by staying at least 100m away from the base of the cliff in the centre of the giant gully leading to the lake, then traversing over across a few bush choked streams to make it to the bottom of the cliff. It’s probably 20 minutes (?) further walk on from Le Grand Pump.

The Nargun

★85m20

Start just L of scoop on front (north) side of Coxs Castle, about 10m uphill from Electra. Possibly cairned. Descend as for Electra.1. 50mCrux. Steep, intermittent, curving cracks in orange rock (take R line if two fit this description) for about 25m. Easily L on ledges for 3m, then up easily (spaced pro), and up and R to L - leaning corner.2. 35mEasy corner to large ledge. Walk to R end. Up (spaced pro).

Peter Steane, Doug Fife (alt), 14 Mar 1994.

Electra

★★100m17

Excellent rock and bulk pro. Find lowest major roofs on front (N) side of Coxs Castle. Just L of roof is attractive corner. Possibly cairned.1. 40mLine to good ledge.2. 60mEasy, with alternatives possible.) L up juggy crack for 4m or so. Wander up towards big corner high above. Up corner to steep section with slightly schisty rock. R for 3m, then up easily. Finish up R-facing corner.To descend, solo down back of Cox’s Castle for 15m to highest point of terrace behind. Note, a subsequent party in 2011 found this solo dangerous and highly recommended an abseil. Next, sidle R to top of the Arches (the 50m wall below Solomon’s Sanctuary) and descend by 50m abseil. The party in 2011 also commented that it was quite a way across to Solomon’s Sanctuary, at least 200m including an exposed section, a sloping ledge with a big drop below, best done roped up. Following this they down climbed a little way on the Cox’s Castle side of the waterfall and found an old sling around a loose chockstone. This sling was replaced and they rapped about 40m to the ground. They also remarked of some serious bush bashing along the base of the cliff back to their bags. (Editor’s note: In light of this involved descent one wonders whether the easiest way down is to just rap the route)

Doug Fife, Peter Steane (alt), 22 Jan 1992.

Thus Spake Zarathustra

★★110m21

Zarathustra takes a line up the prominent west-facing buttress above Cox's Castle. A good sunny afternoon climb but leave yourself plenty of time to get off. Start about 2m R of lone boulder just behind Cox's Castle.1. 30m 18Second half of this pitch is run-out. Up the line for about 7m to overhang. Step L and head up to horizontal break just R of grass. R a couple of metres, then up on marginal protection to prominent diagonal line. Belay a little higher, about 5m below roofs.2. 20m 21Awaits a flash. Up R to thread runner on arête. Steeply up to RH end of roof. Step R onto arête and climb up a few more metres. Traverse spectacularly L on superb rock for about 10m to belay on small seat-sized ledge in horizontal break.3. 25mUp, L and then up again to base of ramp. Up ramp to L to arête of buttress. Climb north face to belay where rope drag dictates.4. 35mWander up and L-ish to top of buttress. Descent: It might be easier to rap off. Otherwise, continue scrambling and climbing up, up, up to top of buttress, and sidle round mountain to pick up the main track to the North Col.

Pete Steane, Nicki Sunderland (var.) 15 Dec 1995.

Solomons Sanctuary

180m12

A route behind the RH (west) corner of the Pillar Face, in a chasm-like gully. From the Tahune Log Book: "On southern side of North Col 50m on RH (far) side of Cox's Castle. Climb main wall and reach wide grassy terrace leading into Solomon's Sanctuary - a deep canyon cutting R into side of mountain. Four pitches on wall progressively harder, culminating in an overhanging layback crack for which pegs were necessary. Canyon Creek followed up under overhanging walls for several hundred feet to climb up 80ft waterfall and a large chockstone. Final pitch involves a traverse around the northern wall, which comes out on edge of summit plateau."

P. Sands, D. Cox, R. Hosking, Easter 1962.

Aesop's Fable

★45m18

Line beginning near lowest point of clean, 40m high N facing wall L of large chimney-gull with chockstone (and below larger walls) about 20m above the "bath" in Solomons Sanctuary. Start below large, hanging flake high on wall. Up, then L edge of flake. Up R to L end of roof, then L and up to grassy ledge. Belay anchors in short crack 5m up next wall.

Peter Steane, Roxanne Wells, 24 Jan 1995.

There is a natural bathtub in the creek which flows from Solomons Sanctuary, ideal for hot, sunny days. Beside this is a 45m abseil which leads to the base of a 50m white slabby wall. Above this is a terrace beneath some bigger walls and buttresses. The wall is 100m long and has some thin lines. It is distinguished by left-slanting arches. The following climbs are on this wall.

Deviant Imagination

★50m20

Follows L most weakness on wall, R of arch at L end. Near top move R to finish as for FS.

Maureen Gallagher, Russell Chudleigh, Mar 1984.

For Susan

★★50m20

The prominent crack R of Dl with the bushes low down and the overhang on the R at 3m.

Chris Baxter, Maureen Gallagher, 6 Mar 1984.

(Unnamed 1)

★★50m21

Line passing left end of overhang of main arch.

Russell Chudleigh, Maureen Gallagher Mar 1984

(Unnamed 2)

★50m22

Spaced protection. Up wall a few metres R of previous route, climbing overhang at weakness towards its L end. Finish up line directly above.

Mike Law, Russell Chudleigh, 6 Mar 1984.

(Unnamed 3)

★45m21

Between right end of R arch and waterfalls is an overhang low down. Start just L of this. Climb up, veering slightly L.

Russell Chudleigh, Maureen Gallagher, Mar 1984.

Fox n Socks

45m17

Start at cairn immediately R of previous route. Veer up R on overhanging arête, then face to ledge. Face-crack to next ledge and corner.

Maureen Gallagher, Russell Chudleigh, Mar 1984.

Culture Shock

★★★160m19

This and the next climb are on the Shining Wall, the buttress of highly polished rock just R of the Arches. The L end has two prominent L slanting lines. R of here the foot of the cliff is undercut. Just R is a small patch of scree. These two climbs start here. Solo up L to good ledge. Line heads up L below roof split by off-width. Superb, exposed climbing on lovely, orange rock.1. 45mFrom L end of ledge, climb up for 10m. Now up L towards small, grey ramp at L end of huge, orange roof. Thin on lip of slab about 6m below and just L of off-width, with undercut wall below. Up and L towards grey ramp. From start of this, drop below it and climb L on juggy wall to arête. Up to small alcove.2. 40mTake R alternative, up bulge. Continue on schisty but sound rock to good ledge below two grooves.3. 30mScary. Up L groove on poor rock and minimal pro, heading L to short, R-arching flake. Rock and pro improve greatly towards end of flake (there is only about 5m of really loose rock.) Up. Step L just above flake.4. 45mUp easily to big grassy ledge. Up flake-cracks on L.

Peter Steane, Doug Fife (alt), 16 Feb 1992.

Strange Attractor

★★130m19

Big juggy-looking corner above start of Culture Shock.1. 45mEasy climbing on excellent, sparsely protected rock towards corner.2. 40mFairly straightforward climbing up corner to about 7m below roof.3. 45mCorner and roof. Corner. Step R and head up easier-angled rock to small tree.

Doug Fife, Peter Steane (var), 21 Jan 1992.

On the N side of the lake is a cliffline, with the most obvious feature being the laid-back expanse of Surf Slab which is approached well down to the L.

Teetering Tower Ridge

★★78m12

From North Col, one can view a tower of rock, narrow at its base, on the ridge top R of Lake Gwendolen. The climb runs up the steep ridge leading to the tower then up the tower itself. An entertaining little climb with good situations. Start: Descend from the North Col toward Lake Gwendolen. Lower down, the Tower can be seen on the ridge immediately left of Surf Slab. Best approach is to climb the first pitch of Surf Slab (30m) then scramble horizontally L to foot of ridge.1. 42mClimb LH side of ridge for 5m, traverse R 3m then up to thin crack. Climb crack and slab above to belay on grassy terrace. (One can scramble off here.)2. 9mTraverse horizontally R to foot of corner.3. 27mClimb open-book corner (crux, also loose rock) and traverse R passing keyhole to wall overlooking Surf Slab. Climb crack on wall to top of tower. Note: Either climb or abseil down low side of Tower (8m). The tower has previously been climbed from this low side (easy).

M. Steane, P. Robinson, J. Burgess, 4 Mar 1979.

Surf Slab

★★69m12

Brilliantly white and in waves. On the northern side of Gwendolen Cirque well below the Lion's Head. There is a prominent bulging pillar among the first buttresses toward the lake. The slab lies below and on the Cap side of this. It is in two sections broken at 2/5 height by a grassy terrace. The lower section is easier. A cairn (1974) marks the start in the centre of the slab. Excellent climbing on small secure holds in great shiny white rock. Climb straight above the cairn veering in places to the grassy terrace above the second slab and walk off. Towards the top of the second slab is a slight flake crack. Up thin crack (crux).

I. Brown, M. Hutton (solo), 1974.

Board Shorts, Bored Shorts

Little is known about this route, but it appears to be at least as good as Surf Slab. Start in the middle of the foot of the slab climbed by Surf Slab. Take a direct line slab followed by a steeper section.

Maureen Gallagher, Russell Chudleigh, Mar 1984.

Breakfast of Champions

★30m17/18

Magnificently overhanging. More awkward than technical. Sustained. Start: The obvious big overhanging line under the nose of the Lions Head, seen clearly when approaching the North Col from Tahune. Scramble up from the North Col across and up into the big cave. Good nut belay on L, out of stonefall line. 1. 30m. Up to the big triangular block. Chimney out under it and up on to loose blocks. Bridge up to obvious traverse R . Across on shattered rock then hand traverse line to sharp nose. Up the line to top. (Double rope useful.)

I. Brown, P. Blunt, 22 Feb 1979.

Cyrano

40m11

Slab split by crack 50m north of North Col. Traverse R above this on slabby ledges. Up seam through bulge and overlap. Traverse R to arête. Up corner to Lions Head.

David Moten, Chris Holley, 8 Feb 1994.

The Eastern Arm

Sharlands Peak

The peak can be divided into two features consisting of huge 150m high pillars. From south to north these are Nicoles Needle and the Northern Pillar (Figure 5). Some magnificent though difficult routes are still waiting here.

Northern Staircase

180m10

On the north face of the Northern Pillar of Sharlands Peak. Start: The track from Barron Pass to Lake Tahune passes beneath a small gully lying between the Northern Pillar of Sharland's Peak and the small subsidiary tower adjacent to the pillar on the northern side. Locate this gully and scramble to it from the track.1. 30mUp slabby face on L of gully veering into gully at chockstone. Emerge on large platform (col).2. 30mEasy walk-scramble R to crack with chockstone on wall above.3. 21mClimb short wall then up over prominent chock stone (mentioned above) to small platform.4. 30mStraight up crest to top of minor pinnacle.5. 15mStep across gap between pinnacle and false summit of Northern Pillar. Climb to summit.6. 30mWalk and scramble towards final tower of Northern Pillar.7. 30mClimb face of final tower. Easy scrambling descent route down back of Sharlands Peak. Alternative Pitches: 2a. 18m 13. Instead of original walk pitch, climb wall on R via crack to large ledge. 3a. 21m 14. Up R wall via L - trending crack. Rejoins normal route on ledge above chockstone.

M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, A. Keller, 26 Dee 1967 (varied leads). Varian R. Mansfield, G. Kowalik, 1979.

White Needle - Philps Peak Area

The two outstanding features here are the high Gendarme Ridge and Scimitar Spur. The latter is approximately 450m in length and falls from the summit of Philp's Peak in a S.W. direction toward the Livingstone Valley (see Fig 5). It involves climbing of all grades. There are some very substantial cliffs falling away on its N.E. side. About halfway up the spur on this side there is a large (50m) gendarme called the Kriss. The best way of reaching the spur is to go over the summit of the White Needle (described below) and then to drop down towards the valley in the vicinity of the "Eagle's Beak". It can also be reached by going around the western base of the White Needle from the Barron Pass. However this involves a tedious scrub bash and is relatively slow. On the other hand, there is no exposure. The high route is mildly exposed.

The Gendarme Ridge

★★10

An enjoyable and straightforward high level traverse, the ridge being at about 4000 feet. Refer to Figs 5 and 6. White Needle 6. From Barron Pass scramble up through scrub to a steep wall with an overhang above it. Continue R of this through a gap and climb short wall on L to gain ridge. Straight up ridge for three ropelengths leads to a knife-edge ridge (4) and summit of White Needle. Alternatively, keeping L of the ridge from Barron Pass, there is a scrub clutching scramble to the top. There is said to be a nice rock climb up the western side of the White Needle, done by J. Peterson and B. Eklund, probably in 1961. Eagle's Beak 12m 6. The foot of this gendarme is reached by a walk over some low towers of no consequence from the White Needle. The hooked summit of the Eagle's Beak is clearly visible from the northern end of Lake Vera. Pikehead 30m 8. After the Eagle's Beak, several gendarmes of lesser interest are climbed. These are followed by a relatively large tower, pikehead. There is an unclimbed spur, Pikestaff Spur, dropping away to the west of this tower. There are two prominent gendarmes on this spur. Shark's Teeth - Three small towers with overhanging summits. Easy. Witch's Thumb 18m 8. A high gendarme providing a fine climb on small holds. The west face falls away for 30m. Witch's Finger 18m 8. A spectacular piece of rock also clearly visible from Vera. Its northern end overhangs in a grotesque curve. Ascend it by climbing the southern side. The west face is 50m plus. Little Federation 18m 10. After the "Finger" there are several small steps; then the 'Little Federation' which is the second last tower of the ridge and situated on an eastern curve in the Gendarme Ridge. The south face drops away vertically for 60m. Ascend it via the western corner. Abseil off summit. Last Tower. Easily climbed on its S.W. side. Then scramble up to summit of Philp's Peak. Time from Barron Pass to Philp's Peak: about six hours. The return trip can be made in a little more than one hour by using the western slopes below the gendarmes, then cutting up over the summit of White Needle.

First traverse P. Sands and M. Douglas, 7 Jan 1966.

Scimitar Spur

★500m12

Location: Philp's Peak. The main buttress running from summit of Philp's Peak towards Livingstone Valley in south-westerly direction. (Refer Fig 5) Access: From Barron Pass, over summit of White Needle; then drop down into valley from a point near the Eagle's Beak. Definite identification of the spur can be made by distinguishing the "Kriss" - a 50m gendarme on the north side of the spur - the Kriss is often difficult to pick up as its outline seems to camouflage itself in the mass of the spur behind it. 1. Attempt at direct line up crest of first step failed after 30m. 1967. 2. Up scrubby lead on north-west side of first step - this lead (30m) is fairly prominent and is just up from crest of the step. Then up vertical scrubby chimney just to the right. (30m) Continue up gully until top of first step of spur is reached. 3. Scramble and climb for about 10m (grade 6-8), crossing conspicuous semi-circular col on the way. Arrive at slab below central rib of spur. 4. Traverse across slab and around corner to L. 30m. 5. Up wall above (exposed) to gain crest of spur (30m). Nut runner. 6. Continue up crest for 30m to the head of the rib. 7. Scramble for a few rope lengths until halted by a barrier of walls. The wall appears to be difficult but can in fact be climbed easily (24m). 8. Scramble to next wall (24m). This wall can be avoided by walking around to R. 9. Final 60m overhanging wall to L of true line of spur was not climbed. Instead scrambled for 100m up gully to end climb. (Once on the spur, there is no simple escape.)

M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, A. Keller, 25 Dec 1967.

The Kriss

45m

Climbed from the col between it and the N.E. walls of Scimitar Spur. (Straightforward.)

J. Ewbank, A. Keller