<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide guidestars="***" pagesize="500"><header
access="Ben Lomond is located about 50km south-east of Launceston. It shouldn't take much more than an hour to be at some of the closer crags, though with walks of up to two hours some are more suitable as weekend epics. Watch out for wildlife in the wee-hours, as the National Park is crawling with it. Anyone stupid enough to climb in the Carr Villa area during winter should note that they do not need to pay the entrance fee; this is for access via Jacobs Ladder to the ski resort. During summer there is no entrance station."
acknowledgement="by Matt Perchard, Roger Parkyn & Andrew Bissett (after previous work by Robert McMahon), originally published in Craglets."
history=""
intro="The cliffs of Ben Lomond provide arguably the best climbing in Tasmania. Anyone interested in the finer points of jamming can perfect their skills here, with soaring, unblemished cracks of various widths rising side-by-side. But beware, one of the problems of climbing here is gear related - it is not uncommon that you will require at least four pieces of identical protection, so perfect are the cracks - some are known to require a rack of at least fifteen friends! The other down-side is that some climbers also find some of the climbing a little boring, so unchanging is its nature. <br/>Being near one of Tasmania's premier skiing resorts (if there is such a thing), climbing is only possible during the summer months. For those inclined, winter climbing would certainly provide new problems - don't forget the ice screws! At an elevation of at least 1300m, the crags are very high (by Australian standards). Even in summer weather changes will occur very quickly, so don't forget your warm gear or be prepared to shiver. On warm summers afternoons though, this place is complete bliss. <br/>There are few facilities in the park, so bring everything - lunch, clothes and water (for some crags). Don't forget either some tape for your hands or bandages - the choice is yours! The best map of the area is probably the Ben Lomond National Park Map and Notes, available from most camping stores, though it's hardly necessary. <br/>The cliffs on Ben Lomond are widely considered to be in a no bolt zone. This is not the opinion of a mere individual, but the current consensus of the Tasmanian climbing community. In the future this situation may change so it should be considered an open topic for discussion (consensus climbing ethics aren't, after all, carved in stone). In the meantime please respect their current natural status; you are unlikely to run out of challenging climbs anyway."
name="Ben Lomond" new="false"
rock="Alpine dolerite in precise columns, from 50m to 200m"
sun="Afternoon sun" walk="20-40 min"/><text class="heading2"
new="false">Strickland Corner</text><text class="text"
new="false">This buttress is above Strickland Corner, the first hairpin bend on Jacobs Ladder.</text><climb
extra="" grade="10" length="65m" name="Strickland's Ladder"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Behind the parking area at this corner is a short gully between the buttress and a tower on its left. Go up the gully a few metres and climb a 10m corner to gain a platform abutting the face. Get into the alcove above the platform and surmount a bit of an overhang. The remainder of the route is an easy 50m face bearing prolific holds. M. Douglas, I. MacDonald, April 1980.</climb><image
new="false" noPrint="false" src="ben lomond sketch map.png"
width=""/><text class="heading2"
new="false">Snake Buttress</text><text class="text"
new="false">The next buttress L of the Pavilion. Access as for Pavilion, but keep walking a few hundred metres L towards the next buttress, then up scree to foot of crag. Descend by walking down scree back towards the Pavilion.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Sweet Surrender"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Bridging L-facing corner up the centre of the cliff. Scramble up to grassy ledge at base to begin. Thoughtful bridging up a mossy crack past some tricky bulges to a semi-hanging belay below clean wall on the R. Second pitch is easy, or else climb FKIADD (a much better idea). FA: McMahon, Maddison.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="20m"
name="French Kisses in a Darkened Doorway" new="false" number=""
stars="">The intermittent crack system up the middle of the clean wall at the upper R of the crag. Climbed as a second pitch to Sweet Surrender. Awkward start and some tricky, technical moves. FA: Maddison, McMahon.</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Local Loser</text><text class="text"
new="false">Directly above Carr Villa is a small but steep little cliff known as Local Loser. It is clearly visible above the Scout Hut, at the top of the scree slope, a short twenty-minutes walk away, and is well worth the effort. The cliff is also pleasantly sunny.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="ben lomond local loser.png" width="">null</image><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="30m"
name="Black Act">Follow the groove on the left of the cliff to the ledge below the 30° roof. Power up the leftward leaning crack up through the roof and finish. I.Thomson, R.McMahon, Jan/78.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="45m"
name="Local Loser">The first route on the cliff. Follow the flakes in the corner left of the overhands. Move out left over dinner-plates under the roof, finishing up the corner leading out right. R.McMahon, B.Easter, Mar/73.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="45m"
name="Vitrac">On first ascent this was a pretty serious lead - new protection makes it better protected these days. Climb the obvious corner, with some difficult thin sections. R.McMahon, 1973.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23"
name="Maltese Falcons">Climb the overhanging face, mostly on layaways and sloping pockets. Supposedly one of the most technical routes on the mountain. J.Smart, Jul/80.</climb><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">The most prominent reference feature is the super-dihedral with a fused crack. This is not (yet) a climb. Hidden Secrets starts about 5m left of this. </text><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="40m" name="Hidden Secrets"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start at the right end of the large boulder standing out from the base of the cliff. Climb up the corner system, over the bulge, then traverse right. Climb upwards when you get to the famous "creaky hold". Belay on the large ledge. Colin Rees.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="26" length="45m"
name="Small Change and the Big Time" new="false" number=""
stars="">Up face R of the big blank corner, climbing seams. FA Adam Donoghue 2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="40m" name="Born Loser" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Climbs a series of left-facing corners left of Local Winner. The FFA took five 8m screamers from the crux over two attempts before cracking it. G.Narkowitz, Jul 1984. </climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="35m"
name="Local Winner">Climb the corner, then break out right onto the face - don't go up the next corner. The face has adequate (although spaced) protection and leads to a prominent undercling. Move slightly right again, then up to finish. G.Narkowitz, R.McMahon, Jul/83.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="45m"
name="Lapus Lazuli">Begin in the cleft on the right of the cliff and strike out left up the face. Ordinary climbing with a poxy finish; definitely not "the classic of the cliff". McMahon, Thomson, Jan/78.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="35m"
name="Spirit of Place">Start behind the pinnacle of rock (which is not shown on the topo). Bridge up until you can gain the thin finger crack, then follow the line to the top. G.Narkowicz, Feb/84.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="35m"
name="Woffal">Climb straight up the cleft. Again, one of those climbs more reminiscent of caving than climbing; this is not what you come to the Ben for. McMahon, Burnett, K.Smith, 1973.</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Bullfighter Buttress</text><text class="text"
new="false">Left of Frew's Flutes is a columnar cliff of immaculate precision which is no more than 60m high, called Bullfighter Buttress. The climbs look much harder on sight than they are in fact.</text><text
class="text"
new="false">On the approach to Frew's Flutes you pass below a compact buttress facing the carpark with two prominent corner crack lines. Both are grade 17, and share a convenient rope/tape abseil point at the top. They are a good intro to the area if you want to test your jamming skills and are not yet up for one of the longer routes further along.
By the way, the descent off Robin's Buttress / Frew's Flutes comes down the gully in front of these routes (there is also another gully between Bullfighter and Robin's Buttress).</text><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Robin's Buttress</text><text class="text"
new="false">The crag of Frew's Flutes and Robin's Buttress provides the most consistently hard cliff on the mountain and the most regular columnar cliff in the state (Australia?). Varying in height from 30m to 180m it is close to a 1km long. The distinct face on the L is named Robin's Buttress after English climber Robin Thomson who, fresh from Yosemite, pioneered many of the exhausting jam cracks in 1978.</text><text
class="text"
new="false">The rock is wholly sympathetic in frictional texture but unrelentingly steep. Note that a high degree of fitness is required, even on the easiest routes.
The climbs on Robin's Buttress are approached by traversing R across the scree from Carr Villa. Stay up high to avoid the bands of scrub (personally I think it's quicker to cross the scrub first to avoid the scree - Ed.). It is approximately 30 minutes walk from Carr Villa to the buttress. On reaching the "saddle" under the big cliff, look up and you'll hopefully see the penis of rock (aka "the donga") at the base of the cliff proper. This is where Rajah and the like start.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="ben lomond robins.png" width="">null</image><climb extra=""
grade="22" length="" name="Back to the Womb" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The brushed finger crack in the descent gully. Tony Dignan, Mark Moorehead.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length="45m" name="Rock-a-Bye Baby"
new="false" number=""
stars="">A route on the left, diminutive edge of the buttress. Some face climbing and a flaring, thrutching chimney. (Alright, I said they were all classics; this is the exception that proves the rule, so read on. - Ed). R.McMahon, H.Smith, 1977.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16"
name="Farewell the Trumpets">Located just left of Rissorgimento. R.McMahon, J.Smart, Jul/80.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length=" " name="Rissorgimento" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Located left of the main difficulties of the cliff. R.McMahon, M.Broadbent, J.Fantini, Jul/80.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length=" " name="Darkness Visible"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Climb up through a couple of v-shaped roofs. D.Ng, Mar/90.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="90m" name="Necromancer" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The second line left of Defender of the Faith. "A real flirtation with death". Destined to be a classic if someone can be bothered abseiling to clean it.
1) 25m 19. Bridge and jam up the flared corner with the black scoops in it. Layback over a small roof, then hand jam to belay on top of the square-cut pillar.
2) 45m. Bridge up the corner to the 1m roof, with small runners for protection.
3) 20m. Turn the roof on the left, then continue up small layaways (the crack blanks out) and face climb 10m to a blank corner. A bit of a death lead (laybacking on a loose flake 7m from your last runner), till the hand-crack and salvation.
G.Narkowitz, Hyland, Feb/84.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="" name="Black Celebration"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start as for Necromancer.
1) 25m. As for Necromancer.
2) 50m 22. Climb straight up the twin crack system. Take lots of #7, #8 & #9 stoppers and ½ and ¾ camalots.
D.Ng, D.Vision.</climb><text
class="text"
new="false">Descent from the following routes is possible by traversing across to the gully on the left and down climbing. There used to be a rap station between Rajah and Barbe Di Vendetta but this was removed in 2007, in the interests of keeping Ben Lomond bolt free.</text><text
class="text"
new="false">It is possible to rap off a number of the routes after the 'main' pitches (with double ropes) by slinging chockstones and horns. However, despite the reputation of the top section of the cliff being a total pile of choss, a number of the more popular routes stay relatively solid to the end; for example, Rigaudon and Ramadan. If you rap off, don't trust any existing tat blindly, and don't count on your old tat being there next time you do a certain route.</text><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="25m" name="Die Nadal" new="false"
number=""
stars="">A long and sustained hand crack up the wall 15m left of Defender of the Faith, finishing at its belay. Take lots of #1 and #2 (Camalot) sized cammers. The name is pronounced as per German ie "Dee". Up the chimney for 10m to the ledge on the left. Rest. Rest again. Rest yet again. Follow the crack and go for it. T.Dignan, M.Moorhead.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="85m" name="Defender of the Faith"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start 5m left of Rajah in a spacious alcove (as for Rigaudon).
1) 20m 18/19. Up the offwidth as for Rigaudon, to the same belay ledge.
2) 35m 22. Climb the line left of Rigaudon. A fantastic long and sustained pitch. Although the route follows a crack, most of the climbing is on face holds. Very well protected; small cams and nuts are useful.
3) 30m 18. To the top.
S.Parsons, R.Staszewski, P.Bigg, Jan/81.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="10m"
name="Governor of the Realm">Climb the thin direct start to Defender of the Faith. Protection in RP's. R.Wells, P.Steane, Feb/94.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="80m" name="Rigaudon" new="false"
number=""
stars="">"A line of ferocious purity that would have Comici speechless." Start 5m L of Rajah in a spacious alcove.
1) 20m 18/19. Climb the off-width until it becomes wide enough to get inside and chimney (crux pitch for most climbers; non-crux for masters of off-widths). Place gear high up in Ramadan before starting if you're not feeling brave (note: the official term for this is 'cheating', but it's better than smacking into the ground). There's gear higher up in the chimney, once you get inside the beast.
2) 50m 20. Jam and bridge up the dihedral above (there is a belay ledge just beyond the 50m mark).
3) 10m 18. To top.
Don't miss the awesome hanging belay! R.McMahon, I.Thomson, C.Larque, Jan/78.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="80m" name="Ramadan" new="false"
number=""
stars="">A striking line, and again, a good beacon to get bearings off (when you find it). This is Rigaudon's neighbour, the recessed column with a flaring corner. Strenuous and sustained.
1) 45m 19. Start from the same alcove where Defender and Rigaudon start. Climb the finger crack to the right of Defender. The crack gradually widens to near off-width. Exit out right via a flake/crack at about 35m (or continue directly up the crack) and climb up to the second belay of Rajah. This is a long and strenuous pitch.
2) 35m 18. Continue straight up through the (problematic) bulge, the hand/fist crack, before easing as the rock becomes friable towards the top.
Thomson, McMahon, Jan/78.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="80m" name="Rajah" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Each of the three pitches on this route are superb, and together they form one of the loveliest 18's in the state. Start off the 'donga', below the 15m hand crack on the left.
1) 15m 18. Climb the hand crack to the large ledge on the left. Take plenty of 2½ to 3½ friends.
2) 30m 18. The hand crack continues, with one difficult section where it becomes off-width (though you can skimp out to the right), to another great belay ledge atop the Ramadan pinnacle.
3) 40m 18. As for Ramadan.
Lockwood, I.Thomas, Mar/78.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length="20m" name="Rajah Eliminate"
new="false" number=""
stars="">A variant start to Rajah, ascending the technical finger-crack to its right. Originally climbed with two rests, but later cleaned. Robert Staszewski, Karen Sippel, Jan/81.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length="80m" name="Rajah Variant Finish"
new="false" number=""
stars="">At the 45m mark, cross the face of the column (exposed) into Rigaudon and finish up that climb. I.Thomas, B.Maddison.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length="88m" name="Poetic License" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Starts 1m right of Rajah. The first crux pitch of 23m bridges and laybacks the thin crack to a ledge. The second of 45m ascends over blocks, then the short curving crack (right of the nasty chimney/offwidth) to a ledge. Continue up the wide crack to a stance above the block roof. And the final third pitch of 20m bridges up the twin cracks to the top. M.Colyvan, N.Smith, Feb/83.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="" name="Roger Casement" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Climbs straight up the widish crack behind where the abseil used to go. Start not far right from Rajah and climb up to the rusty piton. Head on up, finishing up the off-width. Maddison, McMahon, Apr/80.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19"
name="Swallow">Unknown. R.McMahon, D.Stephenson.</climb><text
class="text"
new="false">About 60m R and on the same level are the following.</text><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="75m" name="Dangerman" new="false"
number=""
stars="">A true classic. The obvious bridging/laybacking problem. Start on the left of the block, about 5m left of Master Blaster.
1) 21. Laybacking, stemming and jamming up the crack systems to a cosy belay perch (level with the bollard on Master Blaster. "The calf workout from hell".
2) 18. Continue up the line.
3) 16. Wander to the top via the line of least pox.
P.Bigg, S.Parsons, R.Staszewski, Jan/81.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="100m" name="Master Blaster"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Possibly the most amazing route at the Ben. Again a good climb to get bearings off, with its notable soaring first-pitch crack for 40m, with a resilient small bush at 10m.
1) 40m 24. The straight crack, going from tips lay-backs to a fist crack. The crux is down low. It is possible to rap off a spike/bollard at 25m, where the best part ends.
2) 20. Continue up.
3) 17. Straight-forward to the top.
R.Staszewski, S.Parsons, P.Bigg, Jan/81.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="95m" name="Aquilla" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The finger-crack in the corner left of Barbi di Vendetta and right of Master Blaster. The crack is often wet, hence its black appearance on the first pitch. "If Rigaudon would leave Comici speechless, then this would turn him to religion".
1) 25m 21. Steamy stemming up the dihedral. A finger crack provides some security. Belay at the ledge on the right wall (similar to the Barbe Di belay). Wires are useful as the column is offset, making placing cams a bit iffy.
2) 25m 20. Continue up the crack to belay behind the detached block. Purists will prefer doing pitches one and two together, thus ensuring that characteristic Ben Lomond full-body-fuck.
3) 20m 19. Follow the continuation of the crack through the bulge (difficult), then wind your way up to the top
J.Fantini, M.Ling.</climb><text
class="text">Between the corner of Aquilla and the hand crack of Barbe Di Vendetta is a thin crack, which I think has been aided.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="75m"
name="Barbe Di Vendetta">The most varied route on the buttress and the most sympathetic to the (normal) climber who has an aversion to marathon jamming pitches (originally a half-hearted climb and named Traffic Jam). A good warm-up. Start in a definite hand crack on the left of a column and right of Aquilla.
1) 30m 18. Climb straight up the crack, with superb jams, past three steps.
2) 30m 18. Jam up the corner, through an awkward small roof, then on to belay.
3) 15m 16. Climb up the faces at the top. As usual the quality of the rock deteriorates with height.
Rosebery, Morris, Kennedy, 1977.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="70m"
name="Barbe Di Vendetta Variant">On the second pitch, go out right onto the face of the column, instead of continuing up the crack. Lockwood, McMahon, I.Thomas.</climb><text
class="text">Traverse right for another 20m from the base of Barbe Di Vendetta, round a steep 4m wall to the large comfortable ledge at the base of Rigor. This is known as the El Crap Tower.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17"
name="Rigor">Start around the corner from Barbe Di Vendetta. Jam up the crack into the off-width; jam up the offwidth into the chimney; jam up the chimney to the face... up this to a ledge, then return to offwidth dis-technique to the roof. Hokey-pokey right, up the chimney, jam crack. Hokey-pokey right, up the wide crack and on to the top. Follow that? S.Parsons, N.Smith, Dec/80.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="100m" name="Climbers Variant"
new="false" number=""
stars="">I'm not quite sure where it goes. Pitches of 20, 24, 22 and 15. P.Bigg, R.Staszewski, S.Parsons, Dec/80.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="100m"
name="Quietly Unimpressed">Again details are sketchy. Pitches of 18, 18, 23 and 14. P.Bigg, R.Staszewski, S.Parsons, Dec/80.</climb><text
class="text">Traverse right for another 200m and an obvious line will confront you ...</text><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="80m"
name="Rondeau">A most striking line, and a good climb to get your bearings off. This has to be the best/most obvious looking line. From a distance it appears to be a single spearing crack up the centre of a recessed column 60m high (though it is in fact a triple crack system).
1) 50m 20. Climb straight up the line to a large ledge. Take plenty of gear (especially big stuff but the whole size range will go in). Alternatively use a hanging belay; this will reduce the calf-burn from the continual stemming but isn't really in the spirit of the climb (and may make it feel like an 18).
2) 30m. Keep going up the friable rock near the top.
C.Larque, I.Thomson, B.Kennedy, Jan/78.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="90m"
name="The King of Kings & The Social Leppers" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Also known as "King of Heaven".
1) 40m 24. 7m right of Rondeau climb the open corner direct to some good finger-locks and monster rock-overs, to a scary flaky finale.
2) 10m. Scramble up right over blocks to belay below an open corner.
3) 20m 24. Bridge widely up the twin cracks in the corner with poor protection to a scary finish.
4) 20m. Up easily.
Gerry Narcowicz & Nick Hancock, Feb 2005. </climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="85m" name="Grim Reaper" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Just around the arête to the right of Rondeau is a line up the face.
1) 20m 22. Climb the groove on the left. After 17m, traverse right at the roof, boldly and with difficulty across two columns to a large ledge.
2) 40m 21. Climb down a meter, then traverse back left. Pull over the roof on finger locks and into an unrelenting crack. Awkward flared jams for 25m finally ease before some 'good' moves to the belay.
3) 20m 17. Move slightly left and ascend the groove on the arete, with the usual loose rock.
A.Collins, G.Narcowicz, R.McMahon, Jan/85.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Last of the Independents Ridge</text><text
class="text">This is the steep ridge-line just right of Rondeau which separates the two dominant buttresses of Robins Buttress and Frews Flutes.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="" name="Blast From the Past"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The lefthand direct start to the ridge. R. McMahon, H. Mohler.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length=""
name="Ass, Gas, or Grass; Nobody Rides For Free" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The righthand of the parallel lines up the start of the ridge. R. McMahon,H. Mohler, P. Cullen.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Cullen-Mohler Variation"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The obvious alternative finish to the ridge. P. Cullen, H. Mohler.
There are a couple of routes on the west face of the ridge.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="15m"
name="Francesca">The first line along from the ridge is pretty fused. Start at the next on along, jamming your heart out. R.McMahon, B.Cameron, Feb/85.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="25m"
name="Luciana">Climb the next crack right from Francesca, with jams and layaways. M.Ling, B.Cameron, R.McMahon.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="60m"
name="Suddenly Last Summer">Start below the notch between the second and third pinnacle right from the low point of the ridge.
1) 25m 19. Bridge up the corner.
2) 35m 18. Layaway up the lefthand crack, until the rock craps out, finishing up the groove. Poor pro. Either climb up left to the ridge, or follow the chimney and drop down the slabs a few meters to an abseil.
R.McMahon, G.Narkowicz, Jan/85.</climb><text
class="text">The cliff is then broken by a distinct gully separating the main part of Frews Flutes from the Last of the Independents Ridge.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="45m"
name="Collins' Climb">Next line left of Solidarity. Start up the easy corner, which becomes harder with layback/bridging. Finish up the face. A.Collins, R.McMahon, G.Narkowicz, Jan/85.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="55m"
name="Solidarity">Start 10m right of the gully, just right of the cleft at half-height. Climb the chimney past some boulders, then follow the jam crack and three distinct corner systems straight up. M.Ling, G.Narkowicz, R.McMahon, Nov/84.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="50m"
name="Zanskar">Start 6m right of Solidarity and 6m higher. A great looking line. Start up the crack on the left, with finger locks, and thin jams, continuing up the protruding edge. After the ledge, climb the precarious flake before finishing as for the last corner of Solidarity. G.Narkowicz, M.Ling, R.McMahon, Nov/84.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="45m"
name="Gdansk">Start just right of Zanskar. Bridge up the recessed column (with a crack on the right), before moving into the chimney (crux) and following this. Jam up to shocking rock and even worse pro. G.Narkowicz, M.Ling, R.McMahon, Nov/84.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="52m"
name="Riders on the Storm">Start just right of Gdansk, on the ledge. Climb the face and the hard finger crack. Again as the rock goes off so does the pro, until the off-width roof and the final crack to the summit. G.Narkowicz, R.McMahon, Dec/84.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="65m"
name="Stick Chick">Start down lower than the previous lines and to the right.
1) 35m 17. Follow the easy crack past a ledge and the wide crack.
2) 30m 16. Follow the easy crack and groove.
R.McMahon, G.Narkowicz, Jan/85.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Frew's Flutes</text><text class="text"
new="false">A further 200m right of Robin's Buttress are the cliff's of Frews Flutes. They provide amongst the best climbs on the entire mountain - very steep, very sustained and very, very mind-blowing! They are a bit harder to find though, unless you have a personal guide.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="90m" name="Late for Sky" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Begins up a short offwidth left of the west facing buttress. The first pitch is predominantly bridging. The second is the crux, which is quite hard and with few positive holds. The third crux pitch is as for 35mm Dream. B. Maddison, R. McMahon, 1977.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="90m" name="35mm Dream" new="false"
number=""
stars="">On the far left of the main wall, climb the third crack right which should be facing west. The second pitch of face climbing solves a problem that was pending for years, completing Late For Sky begun many years previously. Access from below is hideous - dense scrub and awkward dodgey "scrambling" up blocky terrain. B. Maddison, P. Mills, P. Morris, Jan/79.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="100m" name="Accursed Land"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start at the jam crack between 35mm Dream and Powerdive. The grade blandly camouflages the 100m desperate fight against gravity. B. Maddison, J.Smart, Jul/80.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length=" " name="Powerdive" new="false"
number=""
stars="">A line up right of 35mm Dream. Climb up until forced left onto the nose. Continue on up.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="75m"
name="Powerdive Eliminate">Instead of moving left on the first pitch, go straight up through the small roof. The crack thins to finger locks and bridging, with the crux up high. Good pro. G.Narkowicz, M.Tierney, Jan/85.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="100m" name="Warsaw &apos;81"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Thin east facing corner right of 35mm Dream. A bit of a classic. B. Maddison, E. Lees.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22"
name="This Is The End">The next line right of Warsaw '81. Scramble up the first 100m to the cliff proper.
1). Follow the hand crack.
2). Continue up the crack.
3). Crux bridging up the thin corner/face.
4). Scramble on up towards the summit.
R.McMahon, M.Ling.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="30m"
name="Michel De Notre Dame Direct">A more direct start of pitches 1 and 2 of This is the End.
1). Climb up right of the corner for 5m, then traverse left into it. Jam up past the ledge, then climb the great crack-line up the face above, laybacking past a couple of roofs, and finishing at the ledge.
2). As for pitch 3 of This is the End.
3). As for pitch 4 of This is the End, or go up the easy gully.
R.McMahon, G.Narkowicz, Sep/84.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="100m" name="El Shaddai" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Thin twin crack system up prow of buttress R of 35mm face, directly R of Warsaw 81. Large bush 20m up.
1) 45m 22 Thin finger locking.
2) 15m 18 Handcrack.
3) 40m 18 Twin handcracks for 30m then loose rock for 10m.
Gerry Narkowicz, Alex Wilson, 29/12/2000</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="120m"
name="Gaebolg">Left of Rock-a-day Johnny is the ridge taken by Cuchulain and on the left side of this is a prominent, beautifully geometric pillar. Left of this pillar is another one. The climb follows the east facing corner on the left side of this pillar. Pitches one and two are as for Cuchulain. The third is the crux of desperate finger-locks which later ease to hand-jams. The fourth pitch continues up the crack until tottering shards force a retreat. Nevertheless, the climb is regarded as complete. Lockwood, I.Thomas, Mar/78.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="150m"
name="Stylistic">Climbs the lefthand corner of the bridging problem just to the left of Cuchulain. From Gaebolg go around the column to start. At the top of the crack, traverse right to join the last pitch of Cuchulain. K.Carrigan, S.Parsons, Apr/82.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20"
name="Abu Nidal">Takes in the line immediately left of Cuchulain.
1). Start up the thin knuckle-crack, up past some holes and small roofs.
2). Continue up with caution.
3). Finish as for the last pitch of Cuchulain.
M.Ling, Nov/86.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="130m" name="Cuchulain" new="false"
number=""
stars="">(Also known as Cahoulan). Left of the "amphitheatre" is a eastward facing proud corner on the right-hand edge of the main wall. It begins halfway up the cliff, is very square and extends for about 45m. A classic climb.
1) 30m 12. Scramble up.
2) 30m 16. Keep scrambling.
3) 35m 20. Absolutely fantastic jamming up the corner to the top of the column (and a possible rap).
4) 35m 19. Step into the crack (hard) then follow the snaking crack up the easiest possible line of awkward bridging and jamming.
R. McMahon, N. Lockwood, I.Thomas.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="130m" name="Conchubar" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Another classic crack. The next corner right of the Cuchulain corner, up the righthand edge of the corner.
1) 30m 12. As for Cuchulain.
2) 30m 16. As for Cuchulain
3) 35m 21. Ascend the corner, through various widths to the top of the column, belaying as for Cuchulain.
4) 35m 19. As for Cuchulain.
R. McMahon, P. Mills, Maddison, I.Thomas, Jan/79.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19"
name="Conchubar Direct Finish">The obvious finish to the climb. S.Parsons, P.Bigg, Dec/78.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="45m"
name="Fantini's Offwidth aka Pipeline" new="false" number=""
stars=""
value="Climb the "hideous" west-facing offwidth, up past a specially made tube or two (if they haven't fallen out or been removed, that is). J.Fantini, 1980's.">Climb the "hideous" west-facing offwidth, up past a specially made tube (there used to be two, but one has fallen out or otherwise vanished). J.Fantini, 1980's.</climb><text
class="text"
new="false">To the right of Conchubar is a great looking amphitheatre high up the main wall with a series of spearing cracks (and some less than vertical toward the bottom). There must be a swag of routes up here, but only one is known about. Descent from these routes is best by walking down the first suitable gully in the Heathcliff direction (about 300m from where you top out) - this is very easy and much quicker than the standard descent gully. You should come down directly in front of the main buttress of The Rocks.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" src="RADJface-lines-new1600.jpg"
width="800"/><climb extra="" grade="21" length="170m"
name="Leandler" new="false" number=""
stars="">Thomson's great route up the Rock-a-day Johnny face. Start directly below two small triangular roofs, below the righthand end of the "amphitheatre".
1) 20m 10. Scramble up till 10m below the roofs (or climb short crack on buttress with big bush on R).
2) 45m 19. Climb the crack, past the roofs.
3) 25m 21. Continue straight up the finger crack above, with tenuous finger-locks. At the top of the finger crack, find the easiest way rightwards. Belay on a large ledge
4) 30m 19. Climb the left facing corner about 3 crack-lines to the right of the previous pitch.
5) 20m 18. As for the last pitch of Rock-a-day Johnny.
R.Thomson, B.Kennedy, Jan/78.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="170m"
name="Knockin' on Heaven's Door" new="false" number=""
stars="">The baby Steck-Salathé of Tasmania, aka "The Bresnehan-Rollins". This cute little excursion heads straight up the guts of the Laendler Face, linking a series of prominent features. Take some big cams and put on your shuffling shoes. Start about 30m R of Laendler at a NW-facing crack splitting the front of a column.
1) 30m 17. Up the crack (hands then offwidth then squeeze chimney) to ledge. Up wide crack above with chockstones to ledge on L (with big leaning block).
1a) 8m 16. Downclimb L to ledge below the detached pillar. Use fixed wire to protect the second.
2) 32m 17. Chimney, wriggle and squeeze up behind the tower and then bag its summit. Pull onto wall on R (huh?) and up to belay ledge.
3) 22m 16. Up the obvious gash above, which is visible from the moon. Belay off to the L on bushy ledge below wide crack.
4) 28m 19. Up handcrack to bottomless offwidth. Hop into this then cruise on up to the same belay as Laendler/RADJ.
5) 25m 18. As for Rock-a-day Johnny. Up recessed L-facing corner on R to niche, move L and up to ledge, then up short crack on L to block belay.
6) 25m. Scramble to the top.
Descend is best by walking down the first suitable gully in the Heathcliff direction (about 300m from the top of the route) - this is very easy and much quicker than the standard descent gully. You should come down directly in front of the main buttress of The Rocks.
Dean Rollins, Jake Bresnehan (alt.), 18-11-2008.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="180m" name="Rock-a-day Johnny"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Ascends the ridge on the right of the cliff (ie. the skyline as seen from the car park); a great adventure and considered somewhat of a classic, though why is anyone's guess; huge and varied with a fine crux last pitch bridging and jamming up twin cracks. Apart from the last pitch and a short grade seventeen section on the second pitch, the climb is fairly 'cruisy'. The first route on the Flutes. R. McMahon, R. Frew, Jan/74.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false">Moustache Tower</text><text
class="text"
new="false">The tower a few hundred metres R of Frew's Flutes.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" src="moustache-lines-new1000.jpg"
width="500"/><climb extra="" grade="19" length="75m"
name="Haggis" new="false" number="1."
stars="">Originally graded 17.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19"
length="75m" name="Ancient Empty Street" new="false" number="2." stars="">A companion line to Haggis. Another proud line up this modest tower. Start in the cave chimney at the front of the tower.
1) 30m 16. Chimney up until possible to pull onto main wall. Move R past spike and up to belay below R of two cracks.
2) 25m 18. A tricky start guards the textbook hand crack.
3) 20m 19. As for Haggis. Good climbing up the deceptive R-leaning crack to the top.
Descend off to the R: squeeze through gap to mossy ledge. Abseil from ledge to big spike slightly uphill (30m), then from spike to gully floor (25m).
Jake Bresnehan, Dean Rollins (alt.), 19-11-2008.</climb>
</guide>
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