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<guide><text class="heading1" new="false"
number="null.">Mount Roland</text><text class="Editor"
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number="null.">by Matt Perchard & Andrew Bissett, originally published in Craglets 6.</text><text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">Rysavy ridge is included in this guide because it is a classic, long climb at a moderate grade. There are numerous other routes at Mount Roland, a few of which are listed here. Allow a full day to complete any of these climbs (for the standard Rysavy, approximately six hours for the climb and two for the descent). </text><text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">To find the route get to Gowrie Park, near Sheffield in the State's central north. Drive along the main street (heading towards Cradle Mountain) until you see Rysavy road on your left. Drive along Rysavy road until the road ends and you reach a farm house (about 1km). The farm is owned by Steve Brown who pioneered the original line and subsequently bought the property. His home phone number is 64282465 and at present he is more than pleased to have climbers on the crags. However, the present tenant of the farm has a rottweiler ... so it is probably best if people contact Steve first. Walk up a track past the farmhouse and sheds towards the ridge, which can be seen at 144o magnetic from the gate. Head up the left hand side of the cleared paddocks for as far as you can. At the top of the paddock is a large pile of rocks. A line of marking tapes and cairns start here and head straight up (still 144o MAG) to the base of the climb (Note: There seems to be various routes up to the crags. Others have gone up to Silverridge Resort, parked at the top, located the line from the topo and thus a bearing, and then headed up through the bush. It's up to you to decide which route to follow - all part of the experience).</text><image
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width="800">null</image><climb extra="" grade="8" length="190m"
name="Kestrel">Left of Slab Crack is an edge bordering the deep gully. The climb takes this and the steep upper sections. F.Dutton, J.Richardson, Mar/77.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="12" length="90m"
name="Slab Crack">Start on the wall left of Jubilee and below the most prominent slabs.
1. Ascend the loose rock to the ledge below this (or solo from the right). Climb the crack, then jam left across the wall to belay atop.
2. Climb the small pillar, move left, then climb the slabs above. Belay at the bushes on the ledge.
3. Move to the lefthand end of the ledge, and climb the slabs, the crack through the overhangs. Continue to a small tree, then right to another crack. Up this to another wall, and belay in the gully.
4. Finish up the chimney.
S.Brown, R.Hamilton, 1977.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="150m"
name="Jubilee Wall">From the start to Rysavy Ridge walk left for 10m or so, until below the overhang (which appears detached).
1. Climb the slabs to a thin crack. Up this to a small stance.
2. Up to the roof, traverse left and belay on top.
3. After a move or two left climb the superb slabs above to a bush covered ledge.
4 & 5. From the right-hand end of the ledge, climb a short slab and follow a crack through the overhang. Continue up the walls and chimneys to the large ledge. Descent is down ledges to the right and abseils to the gully floor (Kestrel is about 50m to the left and the two routes never get within cooee of each other).
T.McKenny, S.Brown, Aug/77.</climb><text
class="text">All of these routes finish above the steep slabs at the top. Descend by climbing up towards the notch, crossing the slabs, and then descending.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="45m"
name="The Roof">Start atop any of the three previous routes.
1. Climb the crack that splits the block on the left. Finish up the short chimney.
2. Scramble on up. (F.Dutton)
Descend by abseil then traversing to the notch. T.McKenny, G.Marshall, 1978.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="140m"
name="The Wandering Jew">Climb the descent route from the above routes, past the solitary gum, up the scrub, and to the crack up the slab. Traverse left to belay on the wall just right of The Roof. Avoid the crack and continue right across the wall, to gain the slab and finish. Descend as per that route. J.Richardson, R.Hamilton,1978.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="11" length="350m"
name="Rysavy Ridge">The climb is fairly straight forward - you simply follow the path of least resistance up the ridge. Having said this it is NOT easy to escape from the top 100m or so of the ridge, the exposure is tremendous and the gear could be considered sparse if grade 11 is around your limit. At the top of the ridge scramble/ abseil down about 25m to the first abseil proper. A small tree is what you're after, but look for the slings other parties have left behind (you may need to replace these) to guide you. Four or five abseils should see you back at the bottom. S.Brown, J.Wood, J.Richardson, T.McKenny, Feb/77.</climb><text class="text">There are a few routes to the right of Rysavy, none of which are considered to be of quality worthy of inclusion - until consensus proves to the contrary.</text></guide>
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