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<guide>
<text class="heading1" new="false"
number="null.">Sow Spur</text><text
class="Discussion">About 500m north from the summit of Mt. Dove, and to the east of Dove Creek, is a prominent bulge of sweeping granite slab called Sow Spur. Park to the Coles Bay side of where the road crosses Dove Creek and walk straight to the cliff. If you're lucky you'll find a cairned route you'll arrive in about 25 minutes. You can descend from each end of the cliff, or use the gully above Poked, or downclimb the obvious vegetated line just right of Durham at about grade 6. The cliff is up to 60m high and faces due west.</text><image
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grade="V?" new="true"></problem><climb grade="Solo)" length="8"
name="The Trotter (Easy Solo" number=""
stars="**"> This line is the obvious crack splitting the pillar of Sow Spur. The way off is to downclimb it. M.McHugh, Robert McMahon C.Viney 1967?</climb><climb
grade="17" length="120m" name="Do As You Swill" number=""
stars="">Another psychodrama by the master. At the lowest point of Sow Spur, at a water streak where the track first meets the cliff. 1. 60m Climb the water streak, heading right when it does. When it disappears, continue up and rightwards, heading for a belay at the foot of a corner directly below a break in the wall above. 2. 25m Climb the corner then up to the roof. Through this, then up to the slab to belay. 3. 35m Step up onto slab and place a runner or two in the short crack. Move up and rightwards towards crack on the righthand edge. Climb to top. Joe Friend 1974.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="40m" name="House Of Straw" number=""
stars=""> Takes the line up the steep slab 3m left of The Crack of Pork. Tenuous and sustained face slab climbing, has your toes screaming for respite. With more traffic to remove the loose crystals this climb could be worth a star. Start below The Crack of Pork. Up the water worn groove below the main crack of The Crack of Pork for 3m. Traverse left to a bolt and follow the bolt line up the wall to the top, a crux at every clip as you wait for your feet to peel off. The second bolt needs a wire or a prebent hanger, and the top section is a wee bit run out. E.Peacock C.Reed Jan 91</climb><climb
grade="15" length="100m" name="The Crack Of Pork" number=""
stars="*">Move up the hill from the Trotter pillar to the right. After a large grey face two ramps appear going up to the right. Ascend slabs to the higher one and ascend 30 metres soloing the scrub or slabs to the foot of a wide crack in a corner overhanging to the left. Pretty worthless. 1. 20m Layback up corner, cross left into main line and ascend corner to tree. Alternatively (and better) climb the layback just right of the main line (grade 16). 2. 15m Ascend chimney to bush belay. 3. 33m To the right up wide twin cracks past overhang to belay. 4. 32m Continue easily to the the top. Robert McMahon Peter Jackson Apr 71.</climb><climb
grade="19" length="95m" name="Pourquoi" number=""
stars="*">Just to the right of the Crack of Pork is a pinnacle. Start on the face to the right of this pinnacle. 1. 15m Up slab and thin corner crack to the ledge. 2. 35m Move slightly left and up over bulge (aid) and continue up to overlap. Climb the face left of the main crack to a small ledge high on the left. 3. 23m Continue up slab on obvious line of holds to belay in the Crack of Pork. 4. 23m Continue to the top. M.McHugh, Robert McMahon Peter Jackson May 71.</climb><climb
grade="15" length="45m" name="The Pork Of Doom" number=""
stars=""> Revolting and potentially dangerous. The obvious gully on the opposite side of the great flake of the Crack of Pork. Up corner to tree, continue in right hand line. Robert McMahon M.McHugh May 71</climb><climb
grade="22" length="45m" name="Pigs Might Fly" number=""
stars="*"> A thin crux leads to an easier slab. Start at the arete immediately right of The Pork of Doom. Climb the arete, then the slab above (4 bolts). Al Adams Garn Cooper Jan 91</climb><climb
grade="20" length="42m" name="It Ain't Kosher" number=""
stars="***"> Possibly the best climb on the Hazards. Harder if you are short, and easier if you are long. 15m left of Pearler, at the steep arete. Climb the crack, then the crux, then the arete, then the face above. 2.5 Friend essential high up. 1st half: A.Adams, P.Steane G.Cooper Feb 87 2nd half: Doug Fife P.Cullen Dec 88.</climb><climb
grade="15" length="55m" name="Pearler" number=""
stars="">Sparse protection. Good climb. Go right past steep section to prominent layback flake. 1. 15m Up short wall to flake and up this to a ledge. 2. 33m Up left ridge to bollard spike then easily up to overhangs. Left to chimney crack then up crack to belay where possible. 3. 7m Up chimney to top. M.McHugh, Peter Jackson Robert McMahon May 71</climb><climb
grade="19" length="55m" name="Boaring" number=""
stars="">Sparse protection. Good climb. A few metres right of Pearler. 1. 45m Up right to a flake stance and face moves to a slight dish crack. Left to flake system and up left to base of wide crack. Up flake crack then trend left to good holds. 2. 10m Up right on slab with little protection. Doug Fife N.Ward Nov 82</climb><climb
grade="22" length="75m" name="Silk Purse" number=""
stars="*">Approximately 7m right of Boaring, up the steep slab. Some bolts were missing at the time of writing. 1. 50m Follow the bolts to the large ledge. Take some small wires or a cam for down low and a 0 quadcam for higher up. 2. 25m Up the slab more easily to the top. Garn Cooper Sam Edwards (alt.) 9 1 95</climb><climb
grade="15" length="25m" name="Porked" number=""
stars=""> Twenty meters right of Boaring, below a slight line up a short convoluted wall. Climb the wall. Al Adams Garn Cooper Dec 86.</climb><climb
grade="20" length="60m" name="Pigs In Space" number=""
stars="">Not well protected. Start below a tree 12m left of Stylised. 1. 35m Straight up to flake, up this then rightwards to horizontal break (crux). Easily up to belay on ledge. 2. 25m Straight up the slab above the chockstone (crux), then up the crack on left of wall (obvious line on wall toproped at 22. No runners). M.Sands D.Jenkins Jan 89.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="65m" name="Stylised" number=""
stars="">Start 40m right of Boaring. Obvious crack line up middle of slabs 20m left of Durham. 1. 45m Straight up crack past small roof to belay on huge boulder out left. 2. 20m Move back right to crack, then up to roof and exit out right. L.Closs, J.Friend Robert McMahon 1974?</climb><climb
grade="20" length="6m" name="Stylised Direct Finish" number=""
stars=""> Through the roof. D.Jenkins, M.Sands, R.Appel, R.Hyslop Jan 89</climb><climb
grade="17" length="50m" name="Dive Between The Whirling Blades"
number=""
stars="*"> Optional bouldery start via mantel to big ledge. Otherwise start off big ledge 3m right of Stylised. Stay roughly 3m right of Stylised for 35m, until crack fuses, then move right to next RP crack and ascend to belay. Garn Cooper Al Adams Dec 86.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="55m" name="Durham" number=""
stars="*">A boomer of a line and good fun. Start 60 metres right of Boaring below left trending stepped roofs. 1. 30m Up easily to horizontal crack. Layback and undercling left across this. Up thin corner (crux) then left again to hanging belay. 2. 25m Move left, then up crack and slab to top. Peter Jackson M.McHugh Dec 71</climb><climb
grade="17" length="45m" name="Durham Direct" number=""
stars="*">Directly below the big block at the end of the first pitch of Durham. An obvious thin line. 1. 25m Up short wall to wide ledge. Up to another ledge and the obvious crack which gets progressively thinner. Follow this to belay on the overlap above the small banksia. 2. 25m Continue up to the big block and climb the slab to its left. Continue up to the terrace. Peter Jackson N Duhig, Apr 86.</climb><climb
grade="16" length="85m" name="Black Pudding" number=""
stars="">Start 50m right of Durham at small corner on waterwashed wall. 1. 45m Straight up corner to belay above small roof. 2. 40m Continue to top. I.Lewis Kim Carrigan Jan 75.</climb><climb
grade="18" length="50m" name="Captain Goodvibes (Pig Of Steel)"
number=""
stars="**"> A first class climb, the top section is runout. Start 10 metres right of Black Pudding. Move up undercling layback flake until crack vanishes. Head up to overlap passing several good wire placements not visible from the ground. Turn the overlap easily and run it out to the next horizontal. Continue in this manner until you run out of rope and reach the top. Well protected up to the overlap, but run out and scarey above. Two rap bolts exist some 20m left of the finish of this climb. B.Kennedy, et.al. Jan 77</climb><climb
grade="17" length="50m"
name="Slab Of Pork (A.K.A. My Fair Lady)" number=""
stars=""> Start 5 metres right of the Pig of Steel. Up slab following intermittent thin crack to weakness in overlap at 30 metres. Surmount and continue to top. I.Lewis Kim Carrigan Jan 75</climb><climb
grade="14" length="50m" name="Piggies" number=""
stars=""> About 40m right of Black Pudding up Sow Spur. Up the thin corner running through two small roofs on the horizon. Protection good on the hard sections though poorer on those easier. Pleasant tree belay on right of large blocks. Exit right. C.(Ditto)Rathbone Phil Bigg Nov 76</climb><climb
extra="" grade="9" length="65m" name="Oink" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Takes the slab to the right of the Piggies corner. Start Just near Piggies. 1. 35m Follow a line of obvious holds up on to a system of ledges at about 8m. Move left for a few feet, then diagonally right around a smooth section of slab. At about 20m move right beneath a hanging corner, and climb onto a broken surfaced slab which overlies the smoother slabs on its left. Continue up to belay. 2. 30m Directly to top. G.Kowalik, R.Williams F.Dutton Oct 71</climb><climb
grade="21" length="10m" name="Time Tide Waits For No Man"
number=""
stars="***"> Climbs the west face of the perched boulder on the very top of Sow Spur, via 3 glued hangerless botls (no lower-offs). Nick Hancock Sep 01</climb><text
class="heading3">Lizard Rocks</text><text
class="Discussion">In the gully between Mt. Amos and Mt. Dove. Reached by continuing up the gully behind Gracelands for about 20 minutes.</text><climb
grade="15" length="25m" name="Lizard" number=""
stars="">Towards the right hand end of a grey cracked wall below a big ledge. 1. 15m. Up the wall on big holds. 2. 10m. Move to the right end of the ledge and swing up onto arete (crux) to the top. I.Lewis Peter Jackson Aug 72</climb><climb
grade="13" length="20m" name="Gizzard" number=""
stars=""> To the right of centre is a big bay on the left of which is a very deep chimney which can be walked through. Climb up the front of the chimney to the top. Poor protection. L.Wood Peter Jackson 1976</climb><climb
grade="18" length="25m" name="Melon" number=""
stars=""> Where the cliff starts to run back up the hill to the left of centre is a large smooth wall with a sloping powerful line blocked at the base by a small overhanging corner. Climb the face left and step right above the corner into the main crack line. Follow this to the roof. Step left and up (crux) to bottomless chimney finish. Abseil off tree. Doug Fife Peter Jackson 1980</climb><climb
grade="22" length="27m" name="Glucojel" number=""
stars=""> About 5m to the right of Melon is a smooth, steep wall with a crack reaching about 5m up. Climb this to its end, then stretch a long way right to the base of a second crack (crux). Lay up this until the cliff stops overhanging, then continue up the easy angled off-width. Marcel Jackson June 1994</climb><text
class="Discussion">Across the valley to the west of Lizard Rocks is an obvious ampitheatre of overhanging streaked rock with slabs to the right. These are easily visible from Lizard Rocks and are about 300m below the cliffs of Mt. Amos. The following climbs are situated on the slabs.</text><climb
grade="16" length="50m" name="Sternum" number=""
stars=""> About 5m left of Spitoon is an interesting slab with a short easy angled corner at its base. Climb this and then continue up the many parallel ribs of aplite to the top. Marcel Peter Jackson June 1994</climb><climb
grade="14" length="50m" name="Spitoon" number=""
stars=""> Takes the groove of water polished aplite in the middle of the face. Peter Jackson N.Ward 1984</climb><climb
grade="15" length="48m" name="Necrotising Fasciitis" number=""
stars=""> This is the black slab with vanishing aplite seam about 5m to the right of Spitoon. Pleasant and fairly easy slab climbing, though extremely runout at times. Marcel Peter Jackson June 1994</climb>
<text
class="heading1" new="false"
number="null.">Windy Hill</text><text
class="Discussion">This is the cliff just below the summit of Mt. Dove. It can be seen from Coles Bay. It has a North Westerly aspect and is often windy. To get there it is easiest to go via Sow Spur as there is a track of sorts this way. This takes about 50 minutes. The climbs are worthwhile.</text><climb
grade="22" length="20m"
name="Feel The Pain - As Baxter's Mum Straps It On" number=""
stars=""> You'll wish you were being chased around by a kinky freind when your hands feel the needle like granite crystals on this route. The first crack left of the arete (Out and Up) with a tree at about 1 3 height. Up easily to the sloping ledge at 3m, move right and then back left to turn the bulge and reach the tree. Follow the crack more easily to the top. Andrew Bissett Nick Hancock, Aug 01.</climb><climb
grade="16" length="20m" name="Out And Up" number=""
stars=""> Not so sporty. Poorly protected with suspect holds, but a great game if you've the stomach for it. Start at the left hand arete of the small cliff at the grey band. Climb up to the arete and the obvious hold. Cross over onto right hand face and follow the line of holds until you can go up the chimney.</climb><climb
grade="24" length="30m" name="Swearin In Bavarian" number=""
stars="***"> Between Out and Up and Blockheads is an awesome wall, with an open groove trending slightly rightwards. A tricky start leads to easier climbing into a steep groove. Undercling right and up, to a thin move right into a runnel. 3 U-bolts and good wires. N.Hancock K.Lawton Mar 02</climb><climb
grade="16" length="25m" name="Blockheads" number=""
stars=""> Move right from the above, past several lines and a large curving corner with a deep offwidth. There are some depressions and disconnected cracks in the face to the right, and then a prominent curving corner with a rough crack. Doug Fife N.Ward Apr 81</climb><climb
grade="18" length="25m" name="Himmel, Arsch Und Wolkenbruch"
number=""
stars=""> Much better than it looks. Start 2m right of Blockheads. The dead straight apparent offwidth. Climb the crack to finish near Indigo. G.Cooper Peter Steane Nov 86</climb><climb
grade="19" length="27m" name="Indigo" number=""
stars=""> Sustained, strenuous and airy. The second crack right of Blockheads. N.Duhig Peter Jackson Apr 86</climb><climb
grade="14" length="55m" name="Screw Gate Zebra" number=""
stars="">This line is a big diagonal starting just right of the turret. 1. 50m Diagonally right up to the base of a wide crack. Continue up line to horizontal break (crux) and continue to the start of a ramp leading right. Belay at end. 2. 5m Climb overhanging flake to the left and finish. Robert McMahon, M.McHugh Peter Jackson 1970</climb><climb
grade="18" length="65m" name="Mr. Damage" number=""
stars="">Entertaining. Crack on the left hand side of wall right of Screw Gate Zebra. 1. 45m Offwidth but mainly face climbing, right at thin overhang to a good stance. Continue up right, then left under flake. Belay on flake. 2. 20m Up and trend right to ledge. Continue across right under horizontal line then up small depression to large ledge. Doug Fife N.Ward Feb 82</climb><climb
grade="18" length="65m" name="Fine Line" number=""
stars="">Don't leave without doing this gem. In the centre of the face are 2 cracks. This is the left one. 1. 45m Climb blocks and crack to hole, continue up crack, face climb when crack closes. Belay at base of corner. 2. 20m As for Mr Damage. Doug Fife N.Ward Feb 82</climb><climb
grade="16" length="70m" name="Enkeffalin" number=""
stars="">Takes wall right of Fine Line. Little protection. 1. 30m Start as for Fine Line, go right below hole, then up face; right up ramp to belay. 2. 40m Traverse right, then up slab. Doug Fife N.Ward Apr 81</climb><climb
grade="17" length="80m" name="Spasiba Bolshoi" number=""
stars="">Runout. Has crux in common with Enkeffalin. The short crack a few metres right of Enkeffalin. 1. 30m Up crack, then step right and up over flake to 4m depression in face. Step out left of depression then straight up to strong diagonal and traverse along this to belay. 2. 50m Traverse left to surmount bulge to next diagonal ramp. Right along this and up steeper rock to a dead tree. Straight up the rock behind tree to belay. Garn Cooper Al Adams Mar 86</climb><climb
grade="17" length="75m" name="Snus Pozjalujsta" number="" stars="">A fine route. Start at the 4m corner crack which forms the left side of a large flake at the base of the right hand end of the cliff. 1. 30m Zoom straight up the water streak, stepping left after the small overlap at about 20m for a short distance, to the obvious right slanting diagonal. 2. 45m Climb the diagonal until a line of jugs heads out left. Along these and up the headwall. Alternatively a short crack can be climbed from the diagonal which eliminates the traverse. O.Nykvist Pete Steane Mar 8</climb>
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