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<text class="heading3">Carp Bay Point</text><text class="description">This headland lies midway between Cape Tourville and Sleepy Bay. It can be seen from the light house as the point with the rock shelf extending into the sea. A rock pinnacle is also visible on the ridge line. To get there drive approx., 200m past the end of the bitumen section of road, at the top of the hill when approaching Cape Tourville. You'll find a disused vehicular track (it's a bit hard to spot, but if you go under the power lines you've gone too far) on the right. Follow this track as it winds its way roughly towards the coast. When it ends, follow the ridge towards the coast, staying on its crest. The ridge becomes narrower the further you proceed.</text><text class="Discussion">The next three climbs are located on the detached piece of cliff between the main ridge and the rock shelf to the east. The best approach is to drop down to sea level off the end of the ridge line (you'll now be on the Wineglass Bay side of the detached cliff) and work back around to the south. Alternatively you can approach the top via the most obvious means (be careful). There are no lower-offs on the climbs, so you need to carry enough gear to set a belay rap.</text><climb name="Cracked Princess" stars="" grade="14" length="15m" number=""> At the eastern tip of the cliff line, just past a zawn, is a steep prow. This route climbs the wide crack to its L, on good face holds. Nick Hancock, Sophie LeRoux, Feb 02.</climb><climb name="Span King" stars="**" grade="26" length="15m" number=""> The desperate flared crack in the prow via two U-bolts. Nick Hancock, Feb 02.</climb><climb name="Slappy Queen" stars="**" grade="24" length="15m" number=""> The vague open groove just to the R, via three U-bolts. N.Hancock, S.LeRoux, Feb 02.</climb><text class="Discussion">The next three climbs are at the right hand end of the cliff line that faces Cape Tourville. Best approached by dropping down that side of the ridge at the midden. It's then easy enough to follow the rock shelf to the climbs. Sheffield Steal is probably the easiest to locate, just look for the bolts.</text><climb name="Powder Monkey" stars="" grade="20" length="20m" number=""> Around 10m left of Snow Blind is an easy looking, left trending diagonal line. Follow this to a few tricky moves at the top. Rock and gear not great. A.Bissett, K.Robinson, 2002.</climb><climb name="Snow Blind" stars="" grade="20" length="30m" number=""> Twin corners immediately left of Sheffield Steal. Climb through the rooflet and continue up the corners, moving right to join the top of Sheffield Steal at its last bolt. Andrew Bissett, 2002.</climb><climb name="Sheffield Steal" stars="*" grade="22" length="30m" number=""> Towards the right side of the cliffs, and just left of a big jutting roof, is an undercut arete with seven U-bolts. Nice technical climbing. Again no lower-offs so get some-one to second you, or down climb to the top bolt and lower off this (not recommended) or fix a rope to a tree, clean the route and enjoy the long walk to retrieve your rope. Nick Hancock, Nov 01.</climb><text class="heading3">Cape Tourville</text><text class="description">This is the steep, large cliff below the Cape Tourville lighthouse. From the lighthouse, drop downhill and about 150m southwest (towards Sleepy Bay). Scramble down and abseil from a variety of places, depending on what area of the cliff you intend climbing on. Alternative access is possible (but considerably longer) by walking down several hundred metres to the north of the lighthouse. Getting to the main face is rather difficult this way. People reckon the rock gets pretty manky on some of the upper pitches.</text>
<text class="description">The following three climbs can be found at a new area at the far L hand end of the Cape Tourville cliffs, about 50 metres before they swing south towards Carp Bay Point. Follow a cairned and blazed track from 50 metres west of the Bluestone Bay turnoff from the Cape Tourville road. Eventually the path ends in a creekbed overlooking a high pillar just to the R, and a cairn atop a lower orange-topped buttress down L.</text><climb name="Painkiller" stars="**" grade="24" length="40m" number="">1. 25m 21 Climb a thin crack on the R side of the seaward face of the high pillar, then move L and pull over a roof into a v-groove. Climb this to a big ledge. 2. 15m 24 Follow the flared R trending crack to below the final tower, then climb the finger crack above on good locks. Nick Hancock Doug McConnell, February 2003.</climb><climb name="E" stars="***" grade="25" length="25m" number=""> The thin flake crack, past a big horizontal break, leading to twin cracks up the orange wall below the cairn. Doug McConnell Nick Hancock, February 2003.</climb><climb name="Sister Morphine 2" stars="*" grade="3" length="15m" number=""> Climb the arete just right of a box shaped alcove 25m R of E. Doug McConnell Nick Hancock February 2003</climb>
<text class="heading3">Delta of Venus Wall</text><text class="description">Stumble onto Delta of Venus wall from the southern end of the Cape Tourville crags. It is first viewed as a square wall rising from the water across a zawn, streaked with vertical cracks.</text><climb name="Cumquat" stars="" grade="18" length="23m" number=""> R.McMahon, J.Fisher, Mar 95.</climb><climb name="Slippery Helm" stars="" grade="21" length="23m" number=""> J.Fisher, R.McMahon, Mar 95.</climb><climb name="Budgie Seed" stars="" grade="18" length="23m" number=""> R.McMahon, J.Fisher, Mar 95.</climb><climb name="Delta of Venus" stars="" grade="19" length="23m" number=""> J.Fisher, R.McMahon, Mar 95.</climb><text class="Discussion">The remainder of the climbs are found on the main Cape Tourville walls. Sugar Crumb Arete is the first climb encountered as you move right from Delta of Venus wall.</text><climb name="Sugar Crumb Aret" stars="" grade="16" length="100m" number="">Turn right off the road 50m before the lighthouse along a clear path through burnt out scrub and down to a clear area on the cliff edge. There is an obvious arete where the cliff makes a right angled bend. Abseil down the big, grey, less steep, southern face for 45m onto a wide sloping ramp. Continue to abseil and scramble carefully down to about 15m above sealevel, where it is possible to walk round to the northern side of the arete until difficulties increase and the climbing starts. 1) 15m. Continue traversing then go up a short corner onto the top of the large prominent rib. 2) 30m. Leftward up the ramp until it meets the arete. (a direct start to here seems likely). 3) 35m. Around left up the wall on various cracks then right onto the arete and up a loose section to a large ledge leading off to the right. 4) 15m. A short but spectacular finish. Step directly up and traverse left on delicate holds to a jam crack and then up this to the top. Phil Robinson, Glen Kowalik, May 78.</climb><text class="heading3">Clichy Face</text><text class="Discussion">To the right where a blocky pillar is found on a more compact wall.</text><climb name="Quiet Days in Clichy" stars="" grade="18" length="80m" number="">1) 25m. Traverse across face, heading right to blocky pillar buttressing the lower part of the cliff. An excellent traverse, with a pocket of large quartz crystals half way across. 2) 43m. Through a bit of an overhang and straight up crack on face - steep, strong and exposed. Gain large ledge before last steep face. 3) 12m. Very steep face to finish (crux). R.McMahon, B.Maddison, 1979.</climb><climb name="Rue de Remarque" stars="" grade="18" length="65m" number="">The big corner to the right of Quiet Days in Clichy. 1) 45m. Jamming and bridging. 2) 20m. Finishes up steep face to the right of finish for Quiet Days in Clichy on exceedingly temporary rock. J.Fantini, B.Maddison.</climb><text class="Discussion">Across the little intervening zawn the main cliff begins.</text><climb name="Givern" stars="" grade="17" length="170m" number=""> Just left of a very imposing corner (Rue Montparnasse) is a more subtle line on the face. Some good face climbing on the first pitch. The second pitch is virtualy the same as for Rue Montparnasse and is rather scrubby, finishing on a steep clean piece of rock. R.McMahon, Carys Fantini, 1980.</climb><climb name="Rue Montparnasse" stars="" grade="17" length="70m" number="">1) The excellent corner The crux section is a little bit of rounded off-width but is bridgeable. 2) Substandard. Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb name="Only the Foolish Mourn" stars="*" grade="18" length="75m" number=""> Move right from Rue Montparnasse until a gap requiring climbing is reached. Start with a bridging move here and head up and right to a classic corner - hand crack. Follow this to 5m from top where blocky face is climbed. N.Smith, R.McMahon, May 81.</climb><climb name="Cape Crumbles" stars="" grade="16" length="90m" number="">Directly below the lighthouse, just left of the big central zawn. 1) 20m. Climb short corner of easy crack to left. 2) 40m. Up ball-bearing rock of corner crack system above. 3) 30m. Up even baser rock of gully corner above. Disgusting. D.Stephenson, L.Kriwoken, Feb 87.</climb><climb name="The Link" stars="" grade="16" length="20m" number=""> This is the route that traverses right from about 5m up the Rue Montparnasse corner and with a downward move connects with the platform at the foot of the main face. R.McMahon, N.Smith, M.Ling, 1980.</climb><climb name="Porpoise" stars="" grade="21" length="90m" number=""> A superb corner. Left of the main overhangs up a scooping corner. M.Colyvan, J.Fantini, 1980'ish.</climb><climb name="Tour de Force" stars="" grade="22" length="25m" number=""> Crack at the right of the main platform with a hard start. Up to the roof. J.Fisher, R.McMahon, Mar 95.</climb><climb name="Antioch" stars="" grade="18" length="16m" number=""> The crack left of Byzantium. Up to the roof. R.McMahon, J.Fisher, Mar 95.</climb><climb name="Byzantium" stars="*" grade="19" length="27m" number=""> From Rue Montparnasse traverse right via The Link onto the main ledge below the main overhangs. Starts towards the left end of the roof. Up the obvious handpockets to finish under the overhangs to the left. Traverse (lead) down left to exit. R.McMahon, N.Smith, M.Ling, 1980.</climb><climb name="High Energy Plan" stars="" grade="22" length="30m" number=""> A one pitch route which abseils from under the rooves. D.Fife, Phil Steane?</climb><climb name="Goodbye Tiger" stars="" grade="18" length="30m" number=""> Right of Byzantium toward the right hand end of the overhangs. Up a series of cracks to the crux, which is really wide bridging between two ribs. Finishes under roofs, abseil off. R.McMahon, N.Smith, 1979.</climb><climb name="Heartbreaker" stars="" grade="21" length="90m" number="">Right of Goodbye Tiger. 1) 42m. Rounded crack to the roof. Turn on right, trying not to get lodged into off-width through subsidiary roof. The crack upwards is good, to ledge below big off-width. Traverse left, move up and turn corner right on underclings (hard), up the slab corner ,traverse right on slab to belay. 2) 20m. Traverse back left again to corner, up this then belay.</climb><climb name="Tour de Farce" stars="" grade="19" length="70m" number="">Good route, avoids shit rock typical of rest of cliff. Start at the obvious hand-crack on the steep wall left of big corner just left of central zawn. 1) 35m. Climb crack to horizontal break. Avoid continuation in off-width above by stepping left 5m, up overlap, and back right on slab to belay. 2) 25m. Short chimney, above (or shallow corner just to the left, better) to face above climb this to belay on ledge. 3) 10m. Left and up corner to top. D.Stephenson, S.Bunton, Apr 88.</climb><climb name="La Grande Epoqu" stars="" grade="20" length="100m" number="">Australia's greatest sea-cliff route? Probably not Up the recessed, bulging face right of the main face with the roofs. 1) 33m. Up the crack and through the roof. Then crack slants right then traverse right to semi-hanging belay. 2) 27m. This pitch traces a great question mark with the belayer anchored to the cliff as the dot. Straight up - a desperate traverse into crack on right. Up that for about 10m then traverse left into what looks like a cave from the ground. 3) 40m. Straight up or through the rooves to the left (easier). J.Fantini, R.McMahon, Dec 80?</climb><climb name="Acts of Piracy" stars="" grade="20" length="90m" number="">A terrific route sadly marred by the off-width. At the right hand end of the overhangs. 1) Series of hand-cracks (beautiful pockets mainly) leading to a nasty off-width crux, then belay. 2) Series of flakes leading to the top. Evelyn Lees, N.Smith, P.Cullen, B.Maddison, Jan 82.</climb><climb name="Queen of Swords" stars="" grade="20" length="95m" number="">1) 20m. Easy to bottom of corner. 2) 36m. The corner is an offwidth horror show with some wire protection in thin crack on right. 3) 7m. Very difficult up and left onto ledge to gain belay. 4) 25m. Straight up and long traverse out left. 5) 7m. Nice corner to finish. J.Fantini, R.McMahon, Dec 80?</climb><climb name="Folies Berger" stars="" grade="17" length="100m" number="">The last continuous line on the right of the cliff. The start is gained by walking north from the lighthouse down to the base of the cliffs, and then south. Start above the chasm by stepping left into the crack. 1) 50m. Step left into the crack, straight up this into a leaning corner and then a short steep crack to belay on a small but comfortable ledge. 2) 30m. Traverse left for 5m then up the face following a thin crack and ledges that come up and to the right and into a swallows nest of crumbling granite. 3) 20m. Straight up unstable ground to finish. N.Deka, F.Moon, Dec 80.</climb><climb name="Rotten Plum" stars="" grade="13" length="100m" number=""> The first route to be climbed at cape Tourville. In, 1977 Glen and Basil ventured round from the north at sealevel until blocked by the first of about four big zawns. The approach proved to be a pleasant traverse over easy slabs. They climbed a promising line about 50m north of the zawn and started up a ramp on good solid granite. But the second pitch was a nightmare of rotten rock and sand filled cracks. G.Kowalik, C (Basil) Rathbone, 1977.</climb>
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