<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide guidestars="*" pagesize="500" ><text class="heading1">New Guide</text><text
class="text">climb</text><text
class="text">Cataract Gorge - Shady Side</text><text
class="text">by Michael Fox</text><climb extra="Zig-Zag Track)."
grade="/"
name="For access/general details, see the section on the Cataract Gorge (Sunny Side"></climb><text
class="text">The popular walk up on the north side of The Gorge hosts a few good climbs for those hot sunny days that abound in Launceston. These climbs are described left to right due to the tyrannical nature of the chief editor. i.e from the restaurant downhill to the bridge even though most of you will be walking the other way. So if you start at the end of these descriptions and read back to here it will make more sense. The distances are measured in leisurely steps. If you are taller or shorter or in a hurry then adjust accordingly.</text><climb
extra="steps from the sign that says "Cataract Walk". Just step off the fence and onto the climb. DBB on top."
grade="160"
name="These first two climbs are above the track about"></climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Nymphogranuloma"
stars=" * ">The jamb crack 2m to the left of The Trap with a block in the crack at the top. Narkowicz, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="The Trap"
stars=" * ">Step off the rails and on to the black face with 4 FH, 70 steps on from the Prince of Darkness abseil point. Ng, 1991.</climb><text
class="text">The shonky looking bolts right of this climb are not a climb, they have been placed by the council to monitor rock movement. They should NOT be clipped for climbing purposes.</text><text
class="text">Prince of Darkness Area</text><text
class="text">70 steps downstream from The trap or 15 steps upstream of the stairs to the lookout is a light pole. Abseil down the sloping ledge beneath this to the platform 15m below</text><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="15m" name="King of Pain"
stars=" ** ">The upstream most of this trilogy of climbs. Climb the features to a hand crack at mid-height then continue on up the arête. Fox, Tierney, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Prince of Darkness"
stars=" ** ">The climb ascends the blocky crack in the middle of the buttress to a small roof then up a thin crack to the sloping ledge. McMahon, Narkowicz 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Queen of Salsa"
stars=" *** ">Start 2m right of POD and head up the ramp to the off-width which can be climbed with-out having to resort to any off-width techniques and then up the top face. Fox, Luna, DeCesare, 2001</climb><climb
extra="cracks on it." grade="2"
name="From the bottom of the stairs leading up to the look-out you can look downstream and up the hill to see a tall buttress with"></climb><climb
extra="" grade="25" length="15m" name="Dam It"
stars=" ** ">Thin face climbing around the left-hand crack. Chris Shepherd, 1985</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="15m"
name="Disgorge">The long crack on the right of the main face. Lamb, Narkowicz, 1982</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="8m"
name="The One That Got Away">A short finger crack, not visible from the walkway, on the right of the buttress opening up at the top. McMahon, Smart 1982.
140 steps from the stairs to the lookout are 2 huge pines on the uphill side of the footpath. Coming from Double Dozen Cliff it is also about 140 steps. The next climb is 10m behind pines.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="12m"
name="Anopheles">2 eye-bolts to finger crack and pro. Stick clip the first eye-bolt. Looks like it could do with another dose of agent orange. DBB. Fox, Tierney, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="climbs on it. Access via Anopheles or scrambling up on the right."
grade="2"
name="Up above this climb is a small buttress with"></climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="8m"
name="Ned">The hand crack on the left hand side. DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
name="Dirichnum Rectum">The thin crack opening towards the top on the blunt arête 3m right of Ned. DBB. DeCesare, Kearnes, 2001.</climb><text
class="text">Double Dozen Cliff</text><text
class="text">When you reach a large landing with a picnic table and seats then you've found the Double Dozen buttress. On the other side of the river is Gabriel Buttress. When the tide is out you can cross over from here. These are some of the best climbs on this side of the gorge</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="11m" name="Afternoon Delights"
stars=" * ">About 25 steps upstream from the main Double Dozen Buttress is a hand crack opening up to off hands at the top. DBB. Smith, Cover, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="11m"
name="Garbo">The left hand crack and corner. McMahon, Ian Green, 1973.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="11m" name="Double Dozen"
stars=" *** ">Boulder problem start to the steep crack then exit out right of the block at the top. Add a grade for the direct finish. DBB. Moorehead, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="11m" name="No Right Turn"
stars=" ** ">Up the thin double cracks on the right above the "booga" graffiti. DBB. Parsons, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="26" length="10m" name="It's in the Veins"
stars=" ** ">The bolted face 5m right of No Right Turn. DBB. Learmont, 1997.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="26" length="10m"
name="Future World">The line of bolts up the arete right of It's in the Veins. DBB Selby, 1998.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Pipedreams"
stars=" * ">Walk up the right side of Double Dozen Buttress and climb up the fixed rope to the old pipes. Follow these pipes to your right. All up it's 30m from Future World. Up pillar past 3 FH to a DBB. Fox, Jones, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="climbs on it. It is also 95 steps downstream from the Double Dozen Buttress The first climb is on the face looking upstream."
grade="2" length="12m"
name="Another 95 steps upstream from the hut with the funny looking concrete tree trunks is a slab that leads up to a"></climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="9m"
name="Moreheads Corner">Visible from the walk-way it is the left hand crack on the upstream face 4m left of the very thin twin cracks (which are waiting a first ascent). DBB way over the back. Morehead, Dignan 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Road to the Lost City"
stars=" ** ">Originally called Pipeline, but known by the above name for many years. It is 15m around the corner from Morehead's Corner and easy to identify now because the council has put cables over a potentially loose boulder at the top. Climb the left hand crack/corner then traverse right onto the black face past 3 bolts and the macrame. DBB. Ng and Vincent 1992. A direct start has been done at the same grade (for tall people) but doesn't add much to the climb.
Across the gully on the upstream side of the Road to the Lost City buttress is a single pillar. Access by scrambling up the gully on the left of Moreheads Corner and then heading left just before where the 2 pipes cross over.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Macu Picu"
stars=" ** ">The arete with 2 eye-bolts and wires. DBB. Fox, Tierney, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="Left Kohoutek" grade="/"
name="The Lost City"></climb><text
class="text">Access - either from the top of Road to the Lost City go 50m uphill and slightly downstream or scramble up the gully on the upstream side of Road to the Lost City, go past the crossed over pipes and then go right to walk along the single pipe for 30m. From here the buttress is visible 40m uphill and slightly downstream. Short climbs but worth a visit if you're in the area.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="8m"
name="Rose in the Dust">The off-width looking crack. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="8m"
name="Iliocostalis">The crack 2m downstream of Only the Wheel. DBB. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="9m" name="Only the Wheel"
stars=" ** ">3 bolts up the right hand arete. Ng, Vincent, 1992.</climb><text
class="text">Right Kohoutek
Head downstream another 50m from Left Kohoutek staying on the same level and crossing the head of a gully. Alternatively from the hut with the concrete tree trunks head directly up the hill for 60m.</text><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="8m"
name="In Cahouts">Climb the fused corner for 2m before moving out to the left arête for another 2m and then back to the crack. Sound contrived* Who knows I haven't done it. Fisher 1997.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="8m" name="Lazy Mahout"
stars=" * ">The arete right of In Cahouts with 3 FH and a 1 friend at the top. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="8m"
name="Rainy Day Woman">Pleasant crack climbing up the middle of the face. Selby, McMahon 1997.</climb><climb
extra="steps upstream from the hut with the fake cement tree trunks is the next climb. It is also 40 steps downstream from the ramp leading to Road to the Lost City."
grade="55" name="Now back on the tourist track"></climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="10m"
name="Gold 101">Climb up the easy face to a ledge with a DBB. These are actually to facilitate measuring of rock movement and were placed by council. Nice of them hey! Move right around the arete to a black face with a thin crack up it. Climb this then move left at half height to an easier crack to finish at a DBB. Narkowicz, 1983.</climb><climb
extra="steps downstream to be level with a small block of rock 10 m above the track with an off-width (grade 19 if you have to do it) up the right side."
grade="40" name="From the picnic shelter walk"></climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="10m"
name="Sanctity">A natural pro sports route* This route is yet to see an ascent placing gear on lead. Otherwise it's something of a hassle since you have to rap down to pre-place gear! Climb the face left of the off-width heading left at the top. Narkowicz, 1999.
30 steps further downstream is another small pinnacle with an even smaller conifer in front of it. It's possible to see the shiny hangers of this route from the track in front of Sanctity.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="9m" name="History Maker"
stars=" ** ">Great moves up past 4 FH to a DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="steps upstream from the New Move that lead to small buttress above the arêtes. Discovered by Narkowicz just after McMahon published the Cataract guide they destroyed once and for all the notion of a definitive guide book."
grade="35"
name="If you feel like a bit of a scrub bash you can now head up the footpads"></climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="8m"
name="Time for an Update">The finger crack up the left hand side of the buttress. Narkowicz, 2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="8m"
name="Another Poxy Route for the Next Edition">The very thin crack left of the chimney. Narkowicz, 2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="8m"
name="Stuff the Guidebook">Up the prow of the buttress. Narkowicz, 2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="8m"
name="One for the Appendix">Right of STG and left of the chimney. Narkowicz, 2000.</climb><climb
extra="steps on from History Maker you will reach a series of 3 pillars with bolted climbs going up the arêtes of each."
grade="115" name="Back down on the tourist track"></climb><climb
extra="" grade="25" length="9m"
name="Schizo">The same pillar as The New Move just sticking to the upstream face. Contrived but fun and the tourists won't know the difference. 2 FH to the same DBB as The New Move. Fox, Tiz, 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="9m"
name="Revival Arete /Telecum /The New Move"
stars=" *** ">Call it what you will just do it! 2 eye-bolts to a DBB. Narkowicz (solo), back in the Jurassic era.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="7m" name="Prohibitionist"
stars=" * ">The middle arete. 2 eye-bolts and a DBB. Fisher, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="27" length="9m" name="No Dams"
stars=" ** ">The downstream arete. 2 eye-bolts and a DBB. Chris Shepherd, 1985.</climb><climb
extra="steps past the last of the arêtes is Ivy Crack"
grade="15" name=""></climb><climb extra="" grade="23"
length="10m"
name="Ivy Crack">A thin crack that opens up to hand crack towards the top. It's climbability is often threatened by the encroachment of ivy. People have been threatening to clean it out for years. You could be the one. Fantini, Smith, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="steps downstream from Ivy Crack is a project up the bolted corner. Around the corner from this is the next climb."
grade="10" name=""></climb><climb extra="" grade="17"
length="15m" name="Six Agile Men"
stars=" *** ">Climb the corner or boulder up the arête 10 steps from FTA. Continue up the slab past a tree branch and 3 bolts to a DBB. Fox and 5 agile men, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="steps." grade="10"
name="Continue downstream for another"></climb><climb extra=""
grade="19" length="7m"
name="Fighting the Authorities">Up past 2 FH on the left of the arete. Same DBB as TMMT. Selby, 1999.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="25" length="9m"
name="The Magical Mousey Tour">Around the arête from FTA or 20 steps upstream from POTR. 2FH. Starts in the corner, under the roof. Up to clip the first bolt, then out left onto the face and up. DBB. Learmont, 1999.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="10m"
name="Path of the Righteous">More like "path of the idiotic". When concerns were raised about the poor bolting quality (protruding carrots and lack of lower offs) on this climb the first ascentionist saw fit to hack them off but not replace them with something better. If you really want to solo it (or better yet, if an altruistic individual retro-bolts it) the route starts 15 steps from FTA on an face left of a small roof around the arete from Heckle. Narkowicz, 1999.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="10m"
name="Heckle">The off-width that hits you in the face as you walk from the toll gate. 155 steps from the start of the bottom end of the track. For those interested in history McMahon thinks this may have been the first climb done in the Gorge. DBB. McMahon and McHugh, 1972.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m"
name="Elphin">The corner 3m right of Heckle. McMahon and a crow-eater, 1973.</climb><text
class="text">Above the Suspension Bridge</text><text
class="text">Access: See map. Council has also very nicely placed distance markers on the track starting at the Suspension bridge. These make handy guides to the climbs.</text><text
class="text">Ice Scream Buttress</text><climb
extra="FH this is Shiloh. The face on your immediate left is Zerubbabel and Spooksville."
grade="3"
name="Access: From the first bridge on the Duck Reach track stand and look at the cliff. Straight in front of you is an orange and black face with two FH. This is Ice Cream. Above this and slightly downstream is a large block with"></climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="8m"
name="Shiloh">Climb on the left of the arête past three FH. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
name="Zerubbabel">Climb the blank face to the horizontal break, which is only 16 if you have the reach, then continue up. Narkowicz, McMahon, 2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
name="Spooksville">The next route right up the stepped scoop. Originally done with a piton runner. Narkowicz, Bennet, McMahon, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Ice Cream"
stars=" ** ">Cause it tastes so good. By which ever way appeals to you climb on to the grassy ledge beneath the black and orange face with 2 bolts. Climb this to crack and then up to the DBB.</climb><text
class="text">There are obviously a few climbs possible in the amphitheatre right of Ice Cream. This next climb is on the pillar on the right and above the amphitheatre. Access either by climbing up to it or scrambling up from the upstream end of the bridge.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="8m"
name="Not By Might">Climb the face and thin crack protected by small wires. Requires a degree of commitment so may be beyond most blokes. Worth doing so you can get to the next two climbs which are must do's if you have an interest in the obscure. Narkowicz, McMahon, 2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="5m"
name="Treasures in Heaven">20m up hill from Not By Might is a pinnacle with one bolt. Take a wire as well. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="5m"
name="Disproportionate Destruction">20 m further up hill and upstream from Treasures in Heaven is another little boulder with 2 bolts. Use your ingenuity for the belay. Narkowicz 2001.
The 50 m of track from marker 4 contains some excellent climbing combined with easy access. A Prophet's Reward is visible from the track just before you get to marker 4. The crack and off-width on the left may look appealing but don't be mislead. Climb the bolts to the right instead. Best access is by scrambling up the track just past the marker.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="9m" name="A Prophets Reward"
stars=" * ">The only reward you'll get here is a good pump. Excellent climbing just beware of knocking anything down on to the tourist track and the unsuspecting public. Climb up past 4 FH to a DBB. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><text
class="text">Allodynia Buttress</text><climb
extra="is a large buttress. Access by climbing down off the bridge or walking across the gully from the downstream end of the bridge."
grade="4"
name="On the upstream end of the wooden bridge just after marker"></climb><text
class="text">Project 11m 27*
Up steep face then on to slab above. 3 U-bolts to a DBB.</text><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="10m" name="Supratentorial"
stars=" ** ">Up arete past 2 U-bolts to horizontal break (1/2 friend) then up thin crack past another U-bolt to DBB. Worth doing at 21 by pulling on the first bolt. Fox, Kearnes, 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="12m" name="Allodynia"
stars=" ** ">Climb up the face past the two eye-bolts to the horizontal break and the up the thin crack passing 2 more eye bolts. Keep going over the bulge past a U bolt to a DBB. Fox, Kearnes, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="12m"
name="Aldente">Step off the bridge onto the large hand crack and corner 2m right of Allodynia, or if you really must, go all the way to bottom to start.</climb><text
class="text">Big Blouse Buttress</text><text
class="text">Access: from the top of the stairs after Allodynia step over the fence and walk over to the she-oaks hanging over the cliff. There is a DBB which raps straight over Big Norm's Blouse.</text><climb
extra="" grade="23/24" length="10m"
name="Victim of Circus Pants"
stars=" *** ">Superb, pumpy climbing up the face from the ledge on the left of Big Norm's Blouse. Climb the crack on the right of the face then clip the first U-bolt and continue left past another 3 U-bolts to a DBB. DeCesare, Fox, 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Big Norm's Blouse"
stars=" * ">Although it's tempting to only rap to the ledge, and climb the face past 3 FH, you actually get better value if you go all the way to the ground and wack some gear into the crack at the bottom. Selby, 1999.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="15m" name="Lady Midnight's Daughter"
stars=" * ">The corner 2m to the right of Norm's Blouse which goes up to a flake/off-width. Actually climbs very nicely.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="8m"
name="Little Gerry's Knickers">Climb the twin cracks 4m right of Lady Midnight's Daughter to the ledge then step right at the FH and over the top.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="25" length="7m" name="Ground Zero"
stars=" * ">Not exactly clip or die with 4 FH and a DBB but good and powerful. Continue straight up the arete above Little Gerry's Knickers. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><text
class="text">Across the river (cross on weir) and down stream about 50m are two more climbs.</text><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="17m" name="Root and Kill"
stars=" ** ">Look for a flaring crack that blanks out after about five meters, spot the bolt above this and your there. The crack to the bolt, then right to gear, back left to another bolt then up past bulge to DBB. Bissett, Tierney, 1997.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="17m" name="Max the Killer Kelpie"
stars=" * ">Just right of R&K is a broken looking face. Climb this to a slot, then over the bulge to same DBB. Tierney, Bissett, 1997.</climb><text
class="text">The next two climbs are above Allodynia Buttress and best accessed by scrambling up the slope 10m past the top of the stairs after Allodynia.</text><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="6m" name="Fat Alex"
stars=" ** ">Another exercise in curiousity value. Visible from the track as pinnacle on the skyline 40m above Allodynia Buttress. 2 FH, the first can be tricky to reach. Single bolt belay on top. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="8m"
name="Glory and Power">From the top of the stairs an orange buttress with a FH on the face is visible 40 m uphill and slightly upstream. Climb the crack up to the first FH then up to the horizontal break (1.5 cam) then move left to the 2nd FH. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="8m" name="Glory With-out Power"
stars=" * ">From the second horizontal break of Gloey and Power move right and continue up past a FH. Less contrived than GAP especially if you don't have the reach for the 2nd bolt. Fox, DeCesare, Bissett, 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="10m"
name="Finger Frolic">Line of four left trending eye-bolts visible 10m up the hill when standing at marker 5. Johnson, Sam, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="12m" name="White Water Arete"
stars=" ** ">Excellent climbing and a great discovery by young Alex. At marker 5 turn and look downstream at the river. You will see 3 FH on the edge of a pinnacle 20m away. Scramble down to the base then climb up past 3 FH and a 3 cam. DBB. Wilson, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="8m"
name="Max Steel">30m past marker 5 if look up between the boulders you will see an orange face with 3 FH on it. Best access is to scramble up 10m back. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="7m"
name="Howard's Shield">Sound's like some kind of IUD. 150m past marker 6 there is a lump of rock very close to the track. On the right side is 3 FH. The first FH can be clipped by climbing the ledge on the left. Heck so can the second. Worth doing if you're there. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="9m"
name="Day of Infamy">At marker 9 head up hill for 40m. The face with 1 FH is just visible from the track. Climb past FH to thin crack. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><text
class="text">The Gallows</text><text
class="text">Access: 50m past marker 10, just before the track steepens to go up the switch back, jump over the fence and go down to the river. From here walk upstream for 100m. Hangman's Noose is the very obvious prow.</text><climb
extra="" grade="26" length="12m"
name="Hangman's Noose#">Up over the roof past 4 FH being careful not to impale yourself on the 3rd one. DBB way over the back. Matt, 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="12m" name="Last Chance#"
stars=" ** ">Either traverse in from the left or the right or go straight up it the river is down. The face with 4 FH 3m right of Hangman's Noose, meeting it at the same DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="14m"
name="Reprieve#">Up the blocky chimney and then up the left hand crack.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="14m" name="The Gallows"
stars=" ** ">Same start as Reprieve but take the right hand finger crack. Narkowicz.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="12m"
name="The Gibbet#">The hand crack 3m right of The Gallows.</climb><text
class="text">Second Basin Terrace</text><text
class="text">10m downstream from marker 14. Jump over the fence and you should see some DBB on the edge of the tier 2m below. Rap off these to the ledge 10m below.</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
name="Utterly Meaningless">From the main ledge go left on to the grassy ledge and then climb the thin corner. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="8m" name="Ecclesiastes"
stars=" ** ">Climb the sharp arete with 3 FH to the DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="10m"
name="Fear God and His Commandments"
stars=" ** ">Excellent climbing up the bolted corner then traverse right to finish up the overlap and crack passing more iron mongery and a fixed wire. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="10m" name="Remember Your Creator"
stars=" *** ">Improbable climbing up the blunt arete past 4 FH. Worth pre-clipping the first one. Hard to avoid moving right in places but worthwhile if you can. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="9m"
name="Bonfire of the Vanities">The thin seam up to the crack 2m right of RYC. Fisher, 2001.</climb><text
class="text">The Black Face</text><text
class="text">Lots of ways to get to this face which has got some of the longest and most enjoyable climbs in the South Esk. The quickest way is to park at Duck Reach and walk back down the river on the track till you get to marker 15. 60 steps down river from there you should see a tree with a chain around it (provided some well meaning idiot hasn't removed it). Alternatively you can walk up from the First Basin and 60 steps past marker 14 see the same tree. Or if you want to be different you can walk in from the Denison Grove car park. This has the advantage of taking you past the Retirement Village cliff. Abseil from the tree to the base of the cliff which is 35m. There are 2 rap stations on the ledge 10m down if you don't have an extra rope.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Cop That To The Max"
stars=" ** ">If you rapped in from the downstream rap station you would have passed directly over this climb. Scramble up slab to broken crack then move left to slab. Up past FH to off-finger crack in the corner and up to DBB. Scramble up right on grassy ledges then climb the crack which leads back to the rap tree. Hyland, Tristram, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="25m"
name="Rampaging Roy">The same start and the same finish as CTTTM. Up slab to broken crack but then blast straight up thin twin cracks to join CTTTM at the off-finger crack. DeCesare, Fox, 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="25m"
name="H.G. Nelson Memorial Route"
stars=" *** ">Once again start up the slab as for Cop that to the Max but continue right to the thin corner with 5 FH. Fox, DeCesare, Tiz, 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="23m" name="Club Buggery"
stars=" ** ">Start 3m to the right of Cop that to the Max. Up downstream facing corner past 2 FH then continue up broken crack system past 5 more FH to DBB. Fox, DeCesare, Tiz, 2002.</climb><text
class="text">Retirement Village</text><text
class="text">From the carpark at the top of Denison Grove walk down the path to the Duck Reach track. After about 200m you should see a big cairn on your right. Head across to this and then continue down to the pipeline. Walk along this for 20m and you will be at the top of the Retirement Village.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Dementia"
stars=" * ">The obvious off-width with a hidden finger crack on the inside. Luckily no fist jamming is required. Up this to the ledge and then continue up thin crack and face to DBB.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Senescence"
stars=" ** ">The face 2m right of Dementia. Up past 3 FH and some cams to a DBB. Fox, DeCesare and Nichols, 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="7m" name="Ungraceful Retirement">The hand crack to the ledge and DBB</climb></guide>
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