<guide guidestars="**"> <text class="heading1">Mount Brown</text> <text class="Editor">by Marcel Jackson (from Craglets 6 Edn)</text> <text class="intro">The cliffs around Mt. Brown provide a substantial range of climbing in an exciting setting. Like half of Tassie's southern coastline, the rock is dolerite, but despite its location directly between Cape Raoul and Cape Pillar, there is not a column to be seen. Huge weathered sheets of featured rock form towering overhanging walls on the west side, while to the east the same formations make even larger slabs. The steep walls have a heap of potential for some really fantastic cranking, and have already yielded a healthy harvest of classic sport climbs. </text> <text class="intro">Climbs of most grades, styles and angles exist in relative abundance but arguably the best aspect about this area is the atmosphere. There are few experiences as pleasant as sitting on the warm rocks at Land's End in the late afternoon sun watching the Gannets dive. Even the evil 170m cave cliff of Mt. Brown glows orange and succumbs to the magic. On the other hand there are few experiences as dramatic and ferocious as the Paradiso when the sea gets up </text> <text class="intro">Turn onto the Nubeena road at Port Arthur (a right turn in the road next to the petrol station) then take the first left, about 200m further on. Drive all the way through to Safety Cove and continue on to the car park at Remarkable Cave. A signpost marks the start of a formed track leading towards Mt Brown. For the Parrot Shelf and Paradiso cliffs turn off this track to the right at a small sandy creek (after about 30 minutes). The Parrot Shelf cliff (top) is a short walk from here and the Paradiso another five minutes. </text> <text class="intro">To access the southern end of Dauntless Point (about 15 more minutes), follow the track past the sandy creek until it starts to head left. Head a little to the right of the saddle between Mt. Brown and Dauntless Point toward a black dead patch near the base of the hill. From here head up to the saddle where upon easy walking with an excellent outlook may be had up along the eastern edge of the cliffs to the highest point. The cliff edge may be followed the whole way to the end of the point, with a rough track providing access through scrubby sections. </text> <text class="heading3">The Parrot Shelf Cliffs</text> <text class="Discussion">Of all the cliffs climbed at Mt. Brown, the Parrot Shelf cliffs are the smallest. However they offer the quickest access and a good collection of quality little routes in a pleasant position. The cliff is in two sections, with the lower left hand half being susceptible to waves in rougher weather.</text> <climb name="Low Road" stars="*" grade="16" length="18m">Clean rock, good pro, marvellous position. Destined for permanent classic status Start at the extreme left end of the lower ledge, just on the edge of the sea cave. Step left off the ledge into the crack and then continue to the top. S.Hamilton, B.McMahon, Nov 94. </climb> <climb name="Lost Sheep" stars="*" grade="12" length="18m">The first crack system right of Low Road. G.Jordan, Sep 96.</climb> <climb name="Better Than It Looks, Three Stars" stars="" grade="16" length="18m">You'd have to be suspicious of a name like that (Ed.) Crack system with three small roofs, 2m right of Lost Sheep. A bit thrutchy. N.Duhig, G.Jordan, Sep 96. </climb> <climb name="Wanker Diver" stars="*" grade="12" length="15m">Climbs the juggy wall 10m right of Low Road. Continue up slab when jugs run out. G.Phillips, S.Ford, Jul 95.</climb> <climb name="Pib and Pog" stars="*" grade="16" length="15m">Up the superb pockets and flakes 3m left of Geronimo. Cruxes are at the ground and at the N.Duhig, G.Jordan, Sep 96.</climb> <climb name="Geronimo" stars="***" grade="20" length="15m">The steep, eye-bolted wall. Excellent climbing up the overhanging wall on large waco jugs. Climb past a cam and 3 eye-bolts to finish at the ledge with rap station. S.Edwards, R.Eberhard, G.Phillips, Jul 95. </climb> <climb name="First Launch" stars="**" grade="20" length="15m">This lies 3m right of Geronimo. Thin face moves to the S.Ford, Jul 95.</climb> <climb name="Diller" stars="" grade="15" length="12m">At the extreme left of the upper ledge, several large blocks can be seen precariously balanced at the top of the cliff. Climb the arete below on its left face, passing the balanced blocks very lightly at the top. Not to be attempted by heavy people. M.Stuver, J.Corbett, Jul 95.</climb> <climb name="Open Cut" stars="" grade="15" length="12m">The next line to the right of Diller. Jam up on the left then bridge and exit via the narrow crack out right. P.Jackson, A.Vincent, Nov 94.</climb> <climb name="Lay Line" stars="**" grade="21" length="12m">An aesthetic line. Takes the arete (climbed on the right face) 1.5m right of Open Cut. Balancy moves to good runners at the horizontal, then up the arete and hairline crack (crux) with very small wires. Finish pleasantly past the roof on the left. M.Jackon, H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 94.</climb> <climb name="Black Cockatoo" stars="**" grade="18" length="12m">Another good climb. The thin shallow line immediately right of Lay Line. H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Jul 95.</climb> <climb name="Cirrostratus" stars="" grade="17" length="20m">Climb the first 3 metres of Octopussy, then hand traverse left along obvious horizontal crack. Finish traversing at Open Cut and climb this to finish. D.James, L.Rollins, Mar 96.</climb> <climb name="The Gift 12m" stars="**" grade="20" length="12m">Arete left of Octopussy. Ben Raymond, Mike Raine 9/2/04</climb> <climb name="Octopussy" stars="*" grade="14" length="12m">The prominent thin chimney between Black Cockatoo and Polly. Better than it looks R.Eberhard, S.Edwards, Aug 95.</climb> <climb name="Do Worms Eat Finger Tape?" stars="*" grade="18" length="14m">Climb the gently overhanging scoop just right of Octopussy then finish up easier crack above. Mike Raine, Ben Raymond 9/2/04</climb> <climb name="No Stove, No Key, No Telli!" stars="*" grade="20" length="14m">Climb the narrow face just left of Polly. Ben Sutton, Hat' Grey, 9/2/04</climb> <climb name="Polly" stars="" grade="8" length="14m">To the right of Octopussy is a narrow corner facing right. Climb up the crack and continue to the top with excellent pro. P.Jackson, A.Vincent, Nov 94. </climb> <climb name="True Grit" stars="*" grade="17" length="14m">About 5m right of Polly there is a rough, left facing flake up a face. Climb up to the flake (crux), step right into its curving continuation, then finish direct. B.McMahon, S.Hamilton, Nov 94.</climb> <climb name="Dog Barf Road" stars="*" grade="19" length="14m">Climb the scoop just right of True Grit, finishing as for True Grit. Ben Raymond, Mike Raine 9/2/04</climb> <climb name="Brimful of Asher" stars="***" grade="21" length="14m">Between Dog Barf Road and Kelpie is a fine face guarded by an overhang at 5 meters. Start below the center of the overhang beneath a large undercut hold. Boulder up to the overhang and surmount it boldly. Move up to twin horizontal breaks then make tricky moves up, then left to attain a standing position on small holds on the blunt arete. The top is just out of reach and gaining it provides a tricky crux. Finish slightly left. Mike Raine, Ben Raymond, 9/2/04</climb> <climb name="Kelpie" stars="" grade="16" length="14m">To the right of True Grit is a corner with a slightly imposing finger hand crack for its second half. Climb this (it is a little loose at the top). H.Jackson, M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 94.</climb> <climb name="New" stars="" grade="20" length="14m">D Grey, Jun 2000.</climb> <climb name="Cracker" stars="" grade="13" length="14m">10m to the right of Kelpie is a face with a steep overhang at about half height. Climb this then turn the bulge with ease. Continue up loose rock to the top. M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 94.</climb> <climb name="Indigo" stars="*" grade="16" length="12m">Climb the face 3m left of Zephyr to a horizontal break at 1 3 height. Follow thin vertical crack to the top. R.Eberhard, C.Phillips, Jul 95.</climb> <climb name="Zephyr" stars="" grade="17" length="12m">At the right hand end of the cliffs is a protruding nose-like feature about 2m up. Climb the pock-marked face to the left of this. R.Eberhard, C.Phillips, Jul 95. </climb> <text class="heading3">The Paradiso</text> <climb name="Shock Wave" stars="**" grade="21" length="13m">This climb lies about 45m from the left hand end of the cliffs. Follow 5 bolts up the overhanging arete (quite a pumpy little route). R.Parkyn, Aug 95. </climb> <climb name="Lost Souls" stars="*" grade="20" length="13m">Starts 4m to the right of Shock Wave and follows the overhanging corner, protection is available but hard to arrange. A testing climb up an obvious (but a little loose) feature. B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Sep 94.</climb> <climb name="Unzip" stars="" grade="16" length="13m">Climb the easier angled arete immediately to the right of Lost Souls. Start in the diagonal crack about 1m to its right, on less than perfect rock. H.Jackson, May 94.</climb> <climb name="High Noon" stars="*" grade="17" length="10m">Between Unzip and Winkle climb the face past 4 bolt runners to a rap station. An excellent warm up route. G.Phillips, Oct 95.</climb> <climb name="Sponge Bob" stars="*" grade="22" length="12m">Start in the wide crack right of High Noon (or climb directly up the face) step left onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB. E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004.</climb> <climb name="Winkle" stars="*" grade="15" length="13m">Takes the chimney 8m right of Unzip. Very pleasant, easy climbing. B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Sep 94.</climb> <text class="Discussion">To the right of Winkle the cliff becomes broken, but after 30m more routes begin.</text> <climb name="Borogove" stars="" grade="15" length="18m">Step over the left ledge of the puddle into an easy, right trending corner on excellent rock. Climb this to a ledge half height, then continue up the holey and slightly overhanging arete headwall above on jugs. M.Jackson, B.McMahon, Sep 94.</climb> <climb name="Stolopin" stars="*" grade="17" length="20m">Crank the initially difficult and steep face just right of the puddle. After the ledge at half height, continue straight up the face. The second followed up the overhanging arete to the right at the same grade. H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Sep 94.</climb> <text class="Discussion">At this point the cliff turns a slight corner and immediately becomes overhanging. This is where the fun starts. </text> <climb name="Super Charger" stars="**" grade="23" length="20m">First line on the overhanging wall. 6 bolts plus a .75 camalot, or similar, for high up on the route. G.Phillips, Sep 95.</climb> <climb name="Belly Of The Beasts" stars="**" grade="22" length="23m">About 4m to the right of Super Charger is a weakness up the overhanging face with a downward-pointing horizontal chimney feature at half height. Climb this with the crux entering the stance under the roof chimney with an excellent but difficult to protect lay back finish. S.Hamilton, B.McMahon, M.Jackson, H.Jackson, Nov 94.</climb> <climb name="Captain Napalm" stars="***" grade="25" length="20m">The line two metres left of Bagpipe. S.Edwards, May 97. </climb> <climb name="Bagpipe Remix" stars="***" grade="25" length="20m">Up the overhanging corner and through the roof (crux) 3m right of Belly of the Beasts. Six U's and a rap station. S.Edwards, Dec 96.A direct version goes up the face two metres right of the corner to join at the roof. "A much better way to do the route." S.Edwards, May 97. </climb> <climb name="Master of Disaster" stars="" grade="V3" length="20m">Not a climb but a traverse. Start by bridging in the Bagpipe corner then traverse right along the base of the wall to finish at Expendable Youth. "To be continued". S.Edwards, Aug 97. </climb> <climb name="Thunder Birds Are Go" stars="***" grade="24" length="25m">The bolted line about 6m right of Belly Of The Beasts. Climb steeply up the face to the third bolt, take a rest then blast up the steep overhang to the top. 6 bolts and a 2 and 3 camalot. S.Edwards, Aug 95.</climb> <climb name="Kraken" stars="**" grade="24" length="25m">Starts 2m right of Thunder Birds. Climb past 2 bolt runners and follow the crack to the large ledge. Shares the same finish as Thunder Birds past the last bolt. R.Eberhard, Oct 95.</climb> <climb name="Offender Of The Faith" stars="***" grade="24" length="30m">Another steep and sustained route about 5m right of Kraken. Climb to the roof at 4m then continue to the top. One piece of good natural gear before the first bolt. R.Parkyn, Oct 95.</climb> <climb name="Sultan Of Sweat 35m 24" stars="***" grade="" length="25">About another 5m to the right is another desperate problem the crux also being the roof at 4m. After this follow ten bolts to the top (with a camalot somewhere mid way as the exception that proves the rule). S.Edwards. </climb> <climb name="Expendable Youth" stars="***" grade="27" length="27m">There's no natural gear on this one. Be careful lowering off on a 50m rope. S.Edwards, 1998. </climb> <climb name="Retrograde Amnesia 35m" stars="***" grade="26" length="35m" extra="13B">Start 5m right of Expendable Youth. Climb the juggy rock to a rest, then climb on the right. Trend left under a diagonal roof to a groove. Thin moves up this to finish. Clip bolts 5-8 on a second rope or use long draws. Nick Hancock & Ben Ridder, Apr 04.</climb> <text class="Discussion">No climbs exist for the next 50m until the point where a massive corner feature can be seen.</text> <climb name="Dominion" stars="" grade="18" length="40m">At the base of the corner described is a relatively short overhanging wall. Start at the arete at the right hand end of this (about 12m to the right).1) 25m (17) climb the arete (crux) then follow the right trending ramp to a ledge. Trend back left up the crack and ledge system until the juggy rock near the corner is reached (about 5m below the roof).2) 15m (18) Move up right, across the face to reach the hollow at the right end of the roof. Continue up to a sloping ledge above the roof. Unfortunately the climbing, protection, and rock quality drop off significantly after this point, so the ascentionists abseiled off some gear at this point. Not recommended until an anchor is placed at the sloping ledge.M.Jackson, H.Jackson, Nov 94 (alt).</climb> <climb name="Six Bells Chime" stars="*" grade="16" length="25m">About 20m right of the start of Dominion, a rightward-tending diagonal can be seen about 12m up the cliff. Start immediately below the start of this. Climb the face (the first move is the hardest) to the base of the diagonal then continue along this to finish at the ledge. A sling abseil can be arranged on the far right of the ledge. M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Nov 94.</climb> <text class="Discussion">Below and to the right of the afore mentioned ledge is a right facing corner with two crack systems, one on the left wall, one the right (outward facing) wall. </text> <climb name="Blue Lotus" stars="*" grade="16" length="30m">Takes the left line, moving right into the corner at the top to avoid a large, loose block. Abseil from the ledge as for Six Bells Chime. M.Jackson, H.Jackson, Jun 96.</climb> <climb name="Chasing The Dragon" stars="*" grade="18" length="30m">Climbs the right line. Start about 2m right of the corner, climb a right facing flake which tends left to the line. Follow the line with small wires for pro, past a slight deviation left on the face, to regain the crack system after a metre or so. Continue up to the ledge as for Six Bells Chime to finish. S.Hamilton, B.McMahon, Nov 94.</climb> <climb name="Too Tall Oxen 30m" stars="***" grade="22" length="30m" extra="11B">Start just right of Chasing the Dragon, just before a water funnel. Climb the overhanging wall to DBB. A good warm-up for the harder climbs. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges, Dec 03.</climb> <climb name="Vena Cava 40m" stars="*" grade="" length="18">This vital line resisted a number of attempts by different parties before a sneaky solution saw it go easily.The very overhanging corner between Chasing the Dragon and Ilkley Roof, starting at the left of the wave washed platform that must be crossed to reach Aquaphobia etc. Avoid offwidth at base gracefully (inevitably a little run out without a five six Camalot), then follow steep corner. Awkward exit up headwall to belay at large ledge. Abseil from 2 wires in face above ledge. Hamish and Marcel Jackson, Oct 99. </climb> <text class="Discussion">From here the ledge drops away into a water funnel (which in bad weather can be quite dangerous) and rises on the other side to a big ledge.</text> <climb name="Ilkley Roof" stars="**" grade="20" length="25m">Takes the striking corner roof feature on the outward facing nose left of Aquaphobia. A second, runnerless, pitch can be done. B.McMahon, J.Fisher, 1996. </climb> <climb name="Random People 15m " stars="" grade="24/25" length="15m">Located in the middle of the crag between the main wall and Aquaphobia. FHs through rooflet down low (crux) then easily up featured face above to double ring lower-off past another 3 FHs and a 3 cam slot. The crux is quite out of keeping with the rest of the route. Neil Monteith 3.1.2006 (one rest due to slimy rock). I'm not sure if order cf. other routes is correct, Roger. </climb> <climb name="Team Caffeine" stars="**" grade="21" length="20m">The line of bolts to the left of Aquaphobia. Garry Phillips, Feb 04. </climb> <climb name="Show Time" stars="***" grade="26" length="25m">Climb Aquaphobia to the start of the traverse, then head direct. Sustained. Garry Phillips, Feb 04. </climb> <climb name="Aquaphobia" stars="***" grade="22" length="25m">This takes the first line on the left end of the brilliant huge right facing wall. Power up to the third bolt then do a delicate traverse right and up to a layback crack, finish at a rap station. This wall is so good, any climb on it would be an instant classic S.Edwards, Sep 95.</climb> <climb name="Don't Ride The Wild Wave" stars="" grade="22" length="25m">This climb starts 5m right of Aquaphobia (on the same face). Climb carefully to the second bolt then traverse up and left to finish up Aquaphobia. G.Phillips, Sep 95.</climb> <climb name="Deep Blue" stars="***" grade="25" length="20m">The line of bolts to the right of Aquaphobia. Features a hard start and a tricky finish. Cam Veal, Feb 04. </climb> <climb name="Carthage 28m" stars="*" grade="18" length="17">The bow shaped corner at the right of the beautiful face. Climb the corner with increasing difficulty with the crux midway up the overhanging section. Abseil from bushes at the ledge to escape. H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Nov 94.</climb> <climb name="Ad Parnassum" stars="" grade="16" length="30m">About 10m right of Carthage is another crack line (just left of the arete). Climb this, starting at the very base of the crack, with the crux passing through the small roof. Take care of the large loose block which must be passed to enter the final corner crack. Abseil from the bushy ledge. M.Jackson, B.McMahon, Oct 94.</climb> <text class="heading3">Hades</text> <text class="Discussion">Hades. This is not a climb but a cave. The huge mouth can be easily seen from the ledge beneath these last few climbs, but if you have time it's very rewarding to access its southern side (for example when visiting Land's End and the Furnace, or when swimming) since the slabs can be followed inside for about 50m. From here, deep in the bowels of the beast, it's apparent that the cave connects to the east side of the point (presumably the cave at Inferno) since water can be seen entering from around a corner at the back. </text> <climb name="Degrees South 70m" stars="*" grade="25 (22A0)" length="70m">An out-there location! This climb weaves through the awesome ground above the cave of Hades (the huge cave arch you can look into from the right end of the Paradiso cliffs. Can be done as 22 with some bolt pulling. 1) 15m 20 Ascend the interesting face to the belay on top of the pillar. 2) 35m 23 Continue up to the over lap and once over this traverse left and up to belay on large ledge. 3) 15m 25 (sting in the tail pitch ) Climb the fantastic over hanging wall above to exit to the right of the roof. Equipped: Garry Phillips 12/05. F.A. Garry Phillips and Alan Williams (alt) 27/12/05. Gear Required: Double Ropes, 15 quick draws, helmets and a 05 friend for pitch 2 if you want. Access: Walk to the top of the Paradiso and then head up hill and over the top on a small cairned track. From here you can either walk around the back or rap from the anchors to the base of the route. GPS coordinates for the rap station are (see below). REF 55 G UTM Description MB001 0569994 5216028 Slab where you turn off to go to anchors. MB002 0569966 5215989 Rap anchors for the multi pitch. </climb> <text class="heading3">Holy Smokes Wall</text> <text>Around the other side of the big cave, as if accessing the multi pitch 40 Degrees South there is a very steep over hanging wall. There are two routes on it. </text> <climb name="Holy Smokes" stars="**" grade="26" length="20m">Follow the very steep over hanging corner to the lip, then heel hook and mantle on to the slab and up to chains, exposed Garry Phillips December 05. </climb> <climb name="Project" stars="" grade="" length="">Right of Holy Smokes. </climb> <text class="Discussion">This next one isn't at Holy Smokes Wall, I think(?) RP. </text> <climb name="High & Dry " stars="" grade="20" extra="DWS" length="500m">Traverse right from Hades (p211, end) to Meadowbank (p213). Beaut climbing at the start with some serious sections at the right end of the Furnace. Nick Hancock Feb 03. </climb> <text class="heading3">The Furnace / Land's End</text> <text class="DiscussionNoIndents">Land's End is the area of cliffs at the southern tip of Dauntless Point, regardless of whether that cliff is on the east or the west face. The only access to these cliffs is by abseil (or by a very long swim) but do not be put off. The area is very pleasant (particularly in the afternoon) with good, safe ledges (between 1 and 15m from cliff base to edge) well above the waves on most days and some fairly easy climbs enabling a quick escape to the top if necessary.</text> <text class="DiscussionNoIndents">On the west face, the northern end of Land's End is marked by an abrupt change in the nature of the cliff. The strangely jagged featured rock suddenly switches to a very overhanging wall, the Furnace. While not as tall as The Paradiso, The Furnace is a little steeper still and should receive some more attention in the future. </text> <text class="DiscussionNoIndents">More northerly still, the ledge at the base becomes a mere hanging footpath, and the cliffs become easier angled and smaller. The one ledge is used to access all climbs on the western face. </text> <climb name="Nearing The End" stars="" grade="16" length="12m">Climb the left facing corner only a meter or so before the northern end of the ledge. M.Jackson, A.Vincent, May 95.</climb> <climb name="Haliaeetus" stars="" grade="15" length="12m">10m to the right of Nearing The End is a crack starting in a short, steep corner chimney. Bridge this then follow the easiest line. D.James, H.Jackson, May 95.</climb> <text class="Discussion">A thin ledge exists at the top of the steep wall of the Furnace. Since the climbing above this is only very slightly overhanging, the following two climbs are better done as two pitches each.</text> <climb name="Flesh Flounder" stars="" grade="24" length="25m">This steep climb takes the crack up the middle of The Furnace which has a small, sloping, hanging ledge at about 3m. Steep sustained jamming required. Finish up the easier wall above. J.Fisher, P.Steane, May 95.</climb> <climb name="Prayers on Fire" stars="*" grade="21" length="25m">Ascends the second last and last full length cracks on the right of The Furnace. Start below the left crack and climb up to the horizontal break. Traverse to the right crack and climb this until the left crack can be gained to finish the overhanging wall. Finish up the easier wall above. M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Feb 95.</climb> <climb name="Throne of Blood" stars="**" grade="18" length="30m">On the furthest right of The Furnace a short, steep layaway crack leads quickly to a slab above. Climb this then traverse diagonally right across the slab, to access the steep hanging corner high on the right (to the right of Pale Fire). Climb this corner to finish (easier climbing in an exciting position). M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Sep 94.</climb> <climb name="Pale Fire" stars="*" grade="19" length="28m">Starts just to the right of Throne of Blood and heads straight up the short corner, onto the slab and on up the steep left tending corner above (to the left of Thorne of Blood). Exit the top of this out left onto the face (crux) then up to finish. B.McMahon, M.Jackson, May 95. </climb> <climb name="Burnout" stars="*" grade="20" length="30m">About 5m left of Stone Biter. Head left up a right facing wall then around arete to the steep slab. Up to ledge then more easily to top. M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Nov 94.</climb> <climb name="Stone Biter" stars="***" grade="16" length="30m">At the top of the cliff and about 10m to the left of the upper corner of Serrator is a chimney feature, overhanging about 45( rightward. Climb grooves below this to ledge then into the chimney. The brilliant crux is stepping out onto the airy arete to exit the blocked chimney 1m below the top. Highly recommended. B.McMahon, M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Oct 94.</climb> <climb name="Serrator" stars="*" grade="17" length="30m">The clean, upper corner of this climb finishes at the last piece of the point which can be easily accessed by foot and can be distinguished by its fawn (instead of blue-grey) coloured rock. 1. (20m) Start in the corner roughly below this. Climb the corner then back left up groove finally to a difficult mantelshelf onto the big ledge. 2. (15m) Up the enjoyable corner. P.Jackson, M.Jackson, Sep 94 (Alt).</climb> <climb name="Carrighfergus" stars="*" grade="17" length="13m">Climbs the pleasant face about 5 metres left of Sinkiller. The wall is steeper and more difficult than it appears. B.McMahon, M.Jackson, May 95.</climb> <climb name="Sinkiller" stars="*" grade="20" length="13m">A short, very overhanging corner is the dominant feature of the right most part of this side of the cliffs. Climb easily up slabby rock to a ledge, then tackle the very overhanging (for Tasmania ) corner. M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Nov 94.</climb> <text class="Discussion">The following climbs are on the east face of Lands End and can be accessed by abseil only (this is easily done from the rocks at the southern most end of the point). Once down, one can scramble around without too much trouble, but no extensive ledges exist. This area has a wonderfully unique atmosphere. </text> <climb name="Marlin" stars="**" grade="14" length="30m">An excellent hanging groove leads up to the ledge at which Pale Fire and Sinkiller finish (one can scramble down to this). Start below the groove, at the south eastern tip of the whole point. Climb up to the groove, enter it (crux) and climb it A strong line. H.Jackson, D.James, Jun 95.</climb> <climb name="Selkie" stars="*" grade="13" length="30m">This climb takes the line down which the western abseil goes. Climb easily up through the small roof at about 8m then on to the top. The climbing is pleasant although the protection is sparse. P.Jackson, M.Jackson, Sep 94.</climb> <climb name="Seasick" stars="" grade="13" length="35m">Takes a wandering line around the roofs to the left of Persephone. Not very interesting but might make a good easy escape route. A.Vincent, M.Jackson, Jun 95.</climb> <climb name="Persephone" stars="" grade="16" length="35m">There are two 45( angle roofs about 15m right of Selkie. Start on the ledge down lower just past the second of these. Climb the easy corner then move onto the arete above the roof. Climb this arete and face to the top. A little contrived and with long runouts. M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Sep 94.</climb> <text class="Discussion">Meadowbank. A place. Moving further right from Persephone, the cliff becomes an area of easy rock and indistinct gully features which may be variously ascended at a standard of grade 2 or harder, providing unroped upward access for cautious, competent people. A large ledge roughly marks the north eastern boundary of Land's End. To the right of this the cliff steepens once more, eventually transforming into a dark sea cave. The following climb takes the diagonal directly above the lip of the cave, from the right. </text> <climb name="Ishmael" stars="" grade="15" length="50m">This route (and Volunteers Abroad) are accessed by abseiling off Meadowbank to a large, chossy ledge just R of Persephone. The attractive line 12m right of the abseil ledge. Beware of loose rock.1) 15m 11. Traverse Northwards from abseil ledge to an obvious cave ledge full of rounded, bulbous knobs. Belay.2) 35m 15. Climb diagonally up and left of the overhanging roof of the cave to good vertical spike. From this, go up pocket-filled wall with crack on its R, cross over Volunteers Abroad and climb directly to the top.S.Jarman, S.Bray, A.Passmore, Jul 97.</climb> <climb name="Volunteers Abroad" stars="" grade="15" length="105m">Traverses the strong horizontal line at half cliff-height, crossing above a huge cave and up the major corner L of Moloch. Loose and sparsely-protected.1) 45m 11. Traverse the hanging slab (20m above sea-level) towards a cave. Belay under roof, above south lip of the sea cave.2) 30m 15. Continue traversing, over the cave, then crank out on the R wall to exit from beneath roof. Belay on ledge around arete on R.3) 30m 14. Follow large corner with crack above, veering left onto slab to finish.H.Jackson, A.Roberts (alt.), Jul 97.</climb> <climb name="Moloch" stars="*" grade="15" length="50m">Abseil down the cliff about 20m north of the corner above the cave. From here scramble to the arete that forms the mouth of the cave.1) 27m. Climb the east face of the arete (sparse pro) to a very loose ledge.2) 23m. Traverse down left and around to the dark face above the cave. Follow the diagonal (spectacular but easy) heading up just before the corner is reached on strange rock (though a little loose).B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Oct 94.</climb> <climb name="Impalation" stars="" grade="15" length="45-50m">Takes the second arete north of Moloch. (There is potential for many very easy slab routes in this area but none would be very good due mostly to poor rock.)1) 40m. Up to a ledge about 5m below the top.2) 5-10m. Escape to the world above (loose and variable). Not recommended.M.Jackson, A.Vincent, H.Jackson, Sep 94.</climb> <climb name="Inferno" stars="***" grade="17" length="53m">A dark and evil classic. This takes the line up the face of the ferocious cave 150m north of Moloch. It is believed that this cave connects with Hades on the other side of the point. Once the cave entrance has been spotted (since it enters the cliff at an angle, it can be seen from the south only), set up an abseil rope (leave it fixed) to abseil down just north of the right arete of the cave (taking extreme care on the appallingly loose cliff top). Scramble round to a spike at the right of the cave entrance (about 3m tall and 7m above the water) to start.1) (48m) Step down left toward the cave and traverse to the triangular ledge. Climb up and left onto the overhanging face of the cave entrance and on up to the ledge (an awesome situation in non-calm seas ). Up the huge corner (initially a little loose) until an escape can be made right to the ledge just below the top.2) (5m) Escape to the loose cliff top. NB: Belaying at the big ledge half way up would give more balanced pitches.H.Jackson, M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Aug 94.</climb> <text class="Discussion">The following climb weaves through the impressive labrynth of roofs that cap the tallest part of the East face of Dauntless point.</text> <climb name="Dirty Equation" stars="" grade="16" length="80m">A disturbing climb with nauseating exposure. It has its fair share of loose rock at the scary bits. Start just below the left end of the cap roofs of the slab of Dauntless. To access, either climb the first pitch and a half of Dauntless OR abseil from the highest point of Dauntless point (about 45m abseil - 30m of which is in free space).(1) 5m, 16. Climb through the bulge forming the left end of the roof to belay on the face below the next overhang.(2) 40m, 15. A convoluted pitch to pass the next roof overlap. Traverse rightwards until the roof finishes, then traverse back left above the roof to belay about 5m above the previous belay.(3) 15m, 16. Climb up to the back of the next roof, then traverse left to the hanging arete (the technical and psychological crux). Climb the short hand crack up the arete to belay on ledge.(4) 20m, easy. Move along the ledge to the right then climb up easy ground to the top.Hamish and Marcel Jackson, '97.</climb> <climb name="Dauntless" stars="***" grade="15" length="105m">Another excellent adventure (wear a helmet). Although the rock on the slabs to the north of this climb is extremely poor, the rock on Dauntless is at worst adequate and at best brilliant. At the highest point of the Dauntless point, the east facing slabby cliffs are capped by numerous big roofs. Abseil immediately before (ie. to the north) the first of these down the edge of a very chossy slab for 50m. From here a second abseil can be made off the left edge of the slab into the corner and down to a significant ledge about 15m above the water. The rock takes on a different character from here.1) (40m) Traverse left into the next mammoth corner then up the slab, tending left of the first roof to belay.2) (20m) Traverse left along the horizontal to belay to the left the roof.3) (35m) Up the face to another huge roof then traverse left across to a ledge on the left arete of the face.4) (10m) Up easily to the top.H.Jackson, M.Jackson, Jun 94.</climb> <text class="heading2">Crescent Bay</text> <text class="heading3">South Veil Cliff</text> <text class="Discussion">The first climbs described here, at South Veil, are about 1 km SE from the south end of the Crescent Bay beach. </text> <text class="Discussion">On the southern side of the Veil Cliff another cliff extends out of view. Walk around the top of the Veil Cliff, scramble onto the wide platform and abseil to the series of slabs and ledges. Climbs described left to right.</text> <climb name="Chicken Shute" stars="" grade="16" length="15m">Several metres left of southern fury follow the crack and slab to a short flaring off-width. Think better of it and step right onto the ledge and finish up the left facing corner slot. Dave James Mark Allen, July 2002</climb> <climb name="Southern Fury" stars="" grade="15" length="15m">Bridge and lay back the right facing corner then hand jam the superb crack to the top. Dave James Mark Allen July 2002. </climb> <climb name="Northern brewery" stars="" grade="16" length="15m">2m right of southern fury a short crack leads to the left end of a ledge. Climb featured cracks and wall, traverse right below orange slab groove to the arete and top, Dave James and Mark Allen July 2002.</climb> <climb name="Excuse me while I kiss this guy" stars="" grade="16" length="15m">At a large short right facing corner flakes and delicate bridging lead to a ledge on the right and a further right facing corner and fist crack . An easier start would be to step a couple of metres right mantle then step back left. Ian Riley and Dave James July 2002.</climb> <climb name="Human Beans" stars="" grade="16" length="17m">At the next ledge right of Excuse me while I kiss this guy a RFC leads to easier ground. Climb the twin cracks and corner then continue to small RFC and layback to top. Doug Grubert and Ian Riley July 2002.</climb> <climb name="Sentient Beans" stars="" grade="16" length="10m">Right of Human Beans scramble to higher ledges then climb cracks to top of blunt arete. Doug Grubert and Ian Riley July 2002 .</climb> <text class="heading3">Veil Cliff</text> <text class="Discussion">Beyond the last point visible from Crescent beach lies a concealed treasure. Walking up hill one reaches a promontory looking over the main cliffs. This promontory makes a corner that is Stonespell. </text> <text class="Discussion">The next two climbs have their own little ledge. </text> <climb name="Shegold" stars="" grade="15" length="30m">Pretty sweet. The left leading line largely visible from the promontory. Abseil down Stonespell to the ledge at sea level (or just above spike). A couple of metres above the spike, the jug trail begins - follow it left then and up following the line to the small LF corner and on leftwards to a grassy ledge and the top. Dave James and Matt Jones, June 2002</climb> <climb name="Stonespell" stars="" grade="25m" length="15">The open book corner as made by the promontory. Abseil down the route to the small sea level ledge. Bridge directly up the corner. Dave James Ben Rhee and Tim Whelan, June 2002. </climb> <climb name="Fathom" stars="" grade="15" length="7m">The thin hand crack immediately left of ASCJ Tim Whelan Dave James 26 01 02</climb> <climb name="A Sister Called Jamaica" stars="" grade="17" length="8m">The arete at the left end of this small wall. Gear and holds found to the right of the arete. Dave James and Tim Whelan Jan 2002</climb> <text class="Discussion">It is straightforward in reasonable swell conditions to traverse right round to another ledge and the following climbs.</text> <climb name="Seagulp" stars="" grade="15" length="7m">Left of Bob the Kelp Kelpie two cracks lead to a rounded flake jug climb the left crack then the right at the flake Jan 2002</climb> <climb name="Bob the Kelp Kelpie" stars="" grade="14" length="7m">If you won't get wet feet step off the kelp onto the wall then mantleshelf. Dave James and Tim Whelan Jan 2002</climb> <text class="heading3">Playstation</text> <text class="Discussion">Don't blink or you'll miss it! The Playstation is situated about ten minutes walk along the boulder beach and shore slabs from the south western end of Crescent Beach. Whilst it will never be a world class climbing destination The Playstation makes for a pleasant alternative if the swell is up or there is a cold southerly at the other Mt Brown cliffs. Descent is simplest by down climbing at the southern end of the "cliff". </text> <text class="Discussion">Perhaps the most distinctive feature is a very neat and clean left facing corner some 4 metres tall to the left of this is some bouldering at a range of grades. The following climbs are described left to right from the corner.</text> <text class="Discussion">From the left end of the playstation wall another clifflet rises from sea level with an obvious horizontal break "Lets get horizontal".</text> <climb name="Tims Route" stars="" grade="16" length="7m">The left facing corner at sealevel which may or may not be splashed by the wet stuff. Tim Whelan Marcus Yong and Dave James Jan 2002</climb> <climb name="Lets Get horizontal" stars="" grade="16" length="10m">A fun traverse of the horizontal beginning higher on the slabs and finishing at the left end of the Playstation wall. Tim Whelan Marcus Yong and Dave James Jan 2002</climb> <climb name="Nintendo" stars="" grade="14" length="5m">The short wide chimney and right facing corner. Dave James and Christian Wehba May 2001.</climb> <climb name="Souper Mario" stars="" grade="15" length="5m">The crack system and over hanging block between Nintendo and Dreamcast. Dave James and Christian Wehba May 2001.</climb> <climb name="Dreamcast" stars="" grade="15" length="6m">The left facing corner and hand crack immediately left of Gameboy. Dave James and Christian Wehba May 2001.</climb> <climb name="Gameboy" stars="" grade="18" length="7m">Beautiful climbing up the arete to the right. Dave James and Christian Wehba (TR) May 2001.</climb> <climb name="Wet Wehbas Staircase" stars="" grade="12" length="8m">3m right of Gameboy a short right tending crack leads to the large and easy corner. Dave James and Christian Wehba May 2001</climb> <text class="heading3">Standup Point</text> <text class="Discussion">Standup point is the rocky point southeast of the north end of the Crescent Bay beach. Routes described left to right (as approached from Crescent Bay). Free-Range is a fairly distinctive face. </text> <climb name="Fuzzy Logic" stars="" grade="12" length="6m">10 m left and around the corner from Free Range. The short hand-crack. Dave James and Ben Rhee June 2002. </climb> <climb name="Free-Range" stars="" grade="14" length="10m">Climb the chicken heads to the ledge then step right to the short hand crack and top Tim Whelan and Dave James Feb 2002. </climb> <climb name="Udopian" stars="" grade="14" length="10m">Just a few metres right of Free Range. Jam and stem the open book corner and hand-crack, Dave James and Ben Rhee June 2002. </climb> <climb name="Parachute Girl" stars="" grade="15m" length="14">Start at the featured off-width 5m left of the square cave. Climb the off-width to the ledge then continue up the hand-crack and left facing corner. Dave James and Tim Whelan, Feb 2002. </climb> <text class="Discussion">I"m not really sure if the next routes are in the right order relative to the others [RP]</text> <climb name="Hippy Chicks In The Styx" stars="**" grade="22" extra="DWS" length="10m">The face and blunt arete. Nick Hancock Apr 03. </climb> <climb name="Blow Me Zoe" stars="*" grade="22" extra="DWS" length="15m">The blunt arete to the right of Hippy Chicks. Mike Robertson Apr 03. </climb> <text class="Discussion">The following climbs are perhaps 15-20m further north - towards Port Arthur.</text> <climb name="Axis of Weevil" stars="" grade="15" length="12m">2m left of Enemy of the Steak climb to a grass tussock and continue up the clean corner to the left. Dave James and Tim Whelan Feb 2002.</climb> <climb name="Enemy of the Steak" stars="" grade="14" length="10m">The open featured corner left of Smart Bong. Dave James and Tim Whelan Feb 2002.</climb> <climb name="Smart Bong" stars="" grade="15" length="10m">Two flakes about 1m apart on the middle wall layback and bridge. Tim Whelan and Dave James Feb 2002.</climb> <climb name="Suicide Plumber" stars="" grade="14" length="15m">Climb features to the large ledge then bridge up the impending corner. Tim Whelan and Dave James Feb 2002.</climb> </guide> |