<guide>
<header name="Glovers Bluff" id="1" walk="2 minutes walk" sun="North facing - all day sun" rock="Quartz arenite - vertical to overhanging - 10 to 15 m high" acknowledgement="by Christoph Speer" intro="Glovers Bluff is a small quartzite outcrop perched above the picturesque Weld River, beyond Huonville in the Weld Valley. What it lacks in height it makes up for in steep, technical and sometimes unusual climbing. The rock quality is generally of sound quality, but be mindful of loose rock outside of the cleaned lines. The cliffs appeal lies in its beautiful location and for something a little different during the long winters. Combined with some of the many attractions in the area, a nice day out can be had. Clear winter days are fairly common and the Northern aspect means its usually dry and warm. A pit-stop en-route at the Summer Kitchen Bakery in Ranelagh is highly recommended.<br/><br/>- Ruebens Falls (go to the end of the road instead of turning right into the access road to the bluff)<br/>- Tahune Airwalk (follow South Weld Road - turning left at the T-junction instead of right)<br/>- Trout fishing in the many rivers around here<br/>- Bush-walking on the nearby Weld, Hartz and Snowy Ranges<br/>- A swim in the beautiful Weld River below the crag." history="Christoph Speer investigated the cliff for climbing potential in July 2022 after discovering it years earlier whilst fishing in the Weld River. With help and guidance from Hamish Jackson, the main lines were subsequently developed over Winter 2022." access="The bluff is just over an hours drive South from Hobart. The road is 2WD accessible but is rough in places. It is a gravel road from Judbury onwards. If it has been windy, trees will sometimes fall over the road in the forestry area, so carrying a chainsaw is useful if you have one. Log trucks operate during the weekdays and the roads are narrow in places so take care en-route (use Ch. 40 to monitor truck movements if you own a UHF).<br/><br/>From Hobart:<br/><br/>- Travel to Huonville and then onwards to Ranelagh / Judbury (keep on the North side of the Huon River). <br/>- Follow Lonnavale Road all the way past Lonnavale and keep travelling along this as you pass over the Little Denison River. <br/>- From here, Lonnavale Road becomes Southwood Road. Keep following this road until you pass the timber processing facility, taking a right turn on a LH bend as you pass the facility (if you've come to a bridge over the Huon River you've gone too far). <br/>- Follow the road you turned into for about 10 minutes past a quarry until you cross a bridge over the Weld River. <br/>- From here, keep following this main road until you get to a T-junction where you will turn right.<br/>- Follow the road for about 5 minutes and take the first RH turn-off, which will take you to the top of the bluff (ending at an old quarry). If you missed the right turn you'll come to the end of the road at the start of the Rueben's Falls track, where an old forestry bridge has collapsed.<br/><br/>From the top of the bluff where you park the car, it's an easy walk around to the base of the cliff, heading left and around if looking out from the top of the bluff.<br/><br/>The entire forestry / conservation area the bluff resides in is frequented by recreational 4WDs, motorbikes and the occasional stolen car. Despite the secluded outlook and being-in what seems to be the middle of nowhere, it's recommended you lock your doors and keep valuables out of sight." camping="Informal camping on top of the bluff is possible, with the Rivers Edge Campground at Lonnavale (15 mins away) also possible and recommended for families. Be aware that you are in a reserve and fire restrictions apply. Please take your rubbish with you." autonumber="true"/>
<text id="22" class="heading2">Gear</text>
<text id="23" class="text">The crag has been developed with sport climbing in mind. However, where obvious trad routes or gear placements exist they have been retained, with the addition of one or two bolts where necessary. A rack of wires, a single rack of cams from BD 0.3 - 1 and a small rack of quick-draws is all you need to climb the routes here. Lower-offs exist above every route for ease of descent.</text>
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<text class="heading2" id="2">Main Wall</text>
<text id="3" class="text">This is the main section of cliff with the prominent overhanging wall at its base.</text>
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<climb id="24" stars="" extra="2Þ" number="1." name="Double Bluffin left exit" length="10m" grade="23" fa="Hamish Jackson, October 2022">Start up the overhanging twin finger cracks (finger sized cams and wires), then move out left past 2 bolts with some bouldery stemming, to third bolt (top anchor). Use second last bolt (w maleon) and anchor above to lower off.</climb>
<climb id="6" stars="*" extra="1Þ" number="2." name="Double bluffin'" length="12m" grade="24" fa="Hamish Jackson, Christoph Speer, October 2022">Take the twin finger cracks up the overhanging smooth wall (very good small wires and cams), until forced to step right and crank up steep wall (crux), before clipping last bolt on Prehensile, then on to anchors.</climb>
<climb id="5" stars="**" extra="4Þ" number="3." name="Prehensile" length="12m" grade="21" fa="Christoph Speer, Hamish Jackson, October 2022">Climbs the overhanging rib feature with the use of some nice technical footwork. DBB lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="7" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="4." name="Iron Fist in a Velvet Glove" length="14m" grade="22" fa="Hamish Jackson, Christoph Speer, October 2022">Fun jug hauling past the bulge leads to a sudden crux on smaller holds leading directly up the steep streaked face above. DBB lower-off.</climb>
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<climb id="10" stars="**" extra="5Þ" number="5." name="The Apprentice" length="14m" grade="19" fa="Christoph Speer, Hamish Jackson, October 2022">Great fun. The very steep line between the two cracks. Pre-clip first bolt and start in the big white scoop and bridge up to a good hold then trend right. Up the steep wall on jugs trending left, then crossing below the roof back to the right. Up direct after this to finish at the DBB lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="12" stars="" extra="" number="6." name="For Old Times' Sake" length="10m" grade="16" fa="Hamish Jackson, October 2022">The crack through the bulge stepping left to DBB lower-off. Takes a range of wires and small / medium cams. Be careful of loose rock (needs more cleaning).</climb>
</guide>
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