<guide>
<header name="Fluted Cape Area" id="1" walk="" sun="" rock="" acknowledgement="" intro="The eastern side of South Bruny Island is fringed by spectacular, massive, dolerite sea cliffs, rising up to 200m high. The area is extremely exposed to the wind and waves of the Tasman Sea and access is generally difficult. Two areas have been climbed on to date but there is massive potential for future exploration." history="" access="Take the turn off to Adventure Bay (C630) to reach Fluted Cape and the Bruny Stacks access boat ramp. The walking track begins at East Cove, the southern most part of Adventure Bay Beach. <br/>Park entry fees apply and passes are available from the D'Entrcasteaux Visitors Centre at Kettering, or at registration booths at the Neck and the Lighthouse Road (Mable Bay).<br/>Follow the Grass Point track to the open grassland at the end of the point (ignore the first sign you pass on the R to Fluted Cape) before turning back south to climb steeply up past the cliff tops (signposted).<br/>On the way up, heading south and after passing a solitary pillar on the left, there is a steep dirty descent gully about 100m before the big Parched Pillar cliff. The surrounding cliffs are vertical and up to 150 m high and there are many excellent lines here, though the rock is often suspect. Inspection on abseil is advised.<br/><br/>For access details for the Bruny Stacks, see route descriptions below.<br/>" camping="There is free camping at Neck Beach, Cloudy Bay and Jetty Beach, or you can pay to camp at the Adventure Bay Holiday Village." autonumber="true"/>
<text class="heading3" id="63">Fluted Cape</text>
<text class="text" id="68">These descriptions are taken from the first ascent descriptions.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Quick Drink" number="1." stars="" id="69" fa="I. Snape, C. Cole, 15 Jun 2001.">Good clean finger crack on the RHS of the descent gully (facing the cliff).</climb>
<text class="text" id="70">Further round, there are a series of prominent lines that cut the main wall. Two of these lines, close together, run up the centre of the wall. With the removal of much loose rock, the face has yielded two interesting and pleasant excursions up this spectacular face.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="18" length="100m" name="Bombs Away Dreambaby" number="2." stars="**" id="71" fa="R. MacMahon, N. Deka, Nov 1989.">Takes the LH of the two lines. The scene of a massive amount of cleaning to unearth the route. Well-protected and consistent throughout its length. Scramble up to the base of the line and start at the base of a LH facing corner with a handcrack about 10m high with a small roof halfway up the corner. <br/>1. 35m. Up to the top of the corner, step R onto a ledge, straight up the crack above and then bridge and jam up the cracks above to belay at the base of the groove where the crack appears to widen. <br/>2. 40m. Straight up the crack (not as wide as it appears). Continue through the roof with the chockstone and then up the crack past the ledges to belay above the last roof which is adjacent to a tree. <br/>3. 50m. Trend L and meander towards the top of the cliff.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="100m" name="Thin as a Lark's Skull" number="3." stars="" id="72" fa="L. Closs, D. Bowman, 1978.">The route follows the right hand line. Start by scrambling across at the foot of the wall to a small corner directly below the line. <br/>1. 20m. Move left, then right over large angular blocks to a substantial ledge with a small bush at the base of a square cut cleft capped by a large overhang. <br/>2. 20m. Hand jam up crack in left corner of cleft in roof. Move right and (crux) cross the overhang. Belay after a further 3m. <br/>3. 25m. Continue up the obvious groove/chimney. Exit left at the top to scrubby ledge at the base of a deep square cut gully. <br/>4. 20m. Ascend gully - more difficult than it appears. <br/>5. 15m. Climb up to sloping roof on left. Cross wall below the roof to very exposed position on rib. Climb crack to top (Aid used on first ascent to cross wall, subsequently freed.)</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="13" length="54m" name="Casuarina Chimney" number="4." stars="" id="73" fa=" L.J. Wood, A. Bowden, 4 Aug 1975.">Gain access to the base of the obvious cliff line by traversing south over a steep ramp of bush and broken rock. Pass under the main wall, an inset section of more broken rock and a vague rib running up to a prominent pinnacle. Ascend left (south) of the rib to the base of the cliff line. The route is about 10m left of the crack which separates the pinnacle from the main cliff. <br/>1. 35m. Climb the chimney over a chock stone and an overhang to a large ledge. <br/>2. 20m. Climb the obvious crack to top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="139m" name="Blowfly" number="5." stars="" id="74" fa="L.J. Wood, A. Bowden, 1 Oct 1975. FFA: L. Closs, D. Bowman, L. Woods, 1975.">Traverse across scrubby ground at the base of the main wall. To the left of the main wall is a section of more broken rock with some vegetation on it. Start near the base of the crack which runs up the right hand side of a clean slab. There is a bush (probably a massive tree by now!) at the base of the crack. <br/>1. 23m. Reach the crack from the left. Climb the crack to a step right onto the corner. Move round the corner and up to a scrubby gully to a ledge at the top of the crack. <br/>2. 23m. Traverse left past a small projecting flake and large tree into a corner with a jammed block below a small overhang. Climb the corner and obvious continuation of the line to a stance behind a large detached block. <br/>3. 20m. Climb the chimney to an awkward overhang at about 13m and the continuation of the line to a stance at the base of a corner with twin cracks. <br/>4. 33m. Move right into a deep chimney, climbing the right wall, past several large trees to a step left onto a large jammed block. <br/>5. 20m. Ascend a couple of metres to an awkward bulge and move up to the right hand crack (a sling was used for aid on FA)until a step right into a crack is possible. Climb this to two small trees at the right hand end of a sloping slab. <br/>6. 20m. Cross the slab to a large ledge and ascend the obvious line at the back of the ledge to the top of the cliff.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="15" length="143m" name="Parched Pinnacle" number="6." stars="" id="75" fa=" L.J. Wood, P. Robinson, 21 Dec 1976.">"Varied climbing and exhilarating situations in magnificent surroundings" Start at the base of Blowfly. Pitches 1,2 and 3 are shared with Blowfly but take a more direct line. <br/>1. 23m. Climb the crack in the slab direct to a ledge with a large tree. <br/>2. 20m. Move left to a corner with a jammed block on top. <br/>3. 23m. Up the continuation of the line past an overhang to a stance at the base of a square cut corner. <br/>4. 27m. Crux. Jam to the top of the corner and move up diagonally left to the gap at the base of the pinnacle. <br/>5. 17m. Chimney up between the pinnacle and the main face until the two merge. Flick a nut into the continuation of the line above and use this to gain the gap at the base of the detached portion of the pinnacle. Easily to the top of the pinnacle. <br/>6. 13m. Cross to the main face and move diagonally right over a few loose blocks. Turn the corner, step down and climb a finger crack to a large ledge. <br/>7. 20m. Finish up the obvious line at the rear of the ledge.</climb>
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<text class="text" id="76">The next two routes are on an even more obscure buttress which is about 30mins. walk south of the main cliff. The buttress is just before the next major cliff (unclimbed) along the coast. On the face of the buttress are two opposing corner cracks, the one on the R ending at a roof at about 20m.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="30m" name="Sohrab" number="7." stars="*" id="77" fa="N. Deka, D. Stephenson, Sep 1989.">Takes the LH line. Climb the crack for 6m, through a small roof and into a shallow corner. Up this until it ends, step L and up crack to finish.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="20" length="30m" name="Rustum" number="8." stars="" id="78" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Sep 1989.">The RH line. A bold route in the upper reaches. Climb the hand-crack in the corner up to the roof. Further L above the roof there is a crack to gain (crux) which is then followed to the top.</climb>
<text class="text" id="79">Details of the following routes are not yet known but further information would be gratefully received!</text>
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Aquabat" number="9." stars="" id="80" fa="S. Parsons, D. Bowman, R. Wells, 1978.">Details unknown.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Vanity" number="10." stars="" id="81" fa="S. Parsons and P. Bigg, 1978.">Starts near Aquabat, crosses this line to a 20m traverse, under clinging to difficult off-width hand crack up wall above.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="82">The Bruny Stacks</text>
<text id="98" class="text">Adventure climbing doesn't come any better than this!<br/>Access to the stacks is difficult and only possible when there is little or no swell. From the Adventure Bay launch ramp, set a course north round Penguin Island and Green Point and then south heading past Fluted Cape towards Cape Connella. The Stacks are located about 6 km down the coast (GR 307966) and a landing can be made at the base on either side, depending on the prevailing swell. However, there is little shelter and no mooring. Obviously, given this remote location, and the notoriously changeable weather, climbers should be prepared for a prolonged stay in case they are marooned (!), and should consider taking radios/emergency beacons.</text>
<text id="97" class="heading3">The Monument</text>
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<text class="text" id="84">Photo of Monument is courtesy of Joe Shemesh and Bruny Island Charters.</text>
<text class="text" id="85">The Monument, rearing out of the sea and topped by a coronet of blocks, is a spectacular finger of rock, about 45m high and apparently precariously balanced. Opposite on the mainland is the smaller pillar, the Fickle Finger (of Fate).</text>
<climb extra="" grade="16" length="32m" name="Veni Vidi Vici" number="11." stars="**" id="86" fa="Phil Robinson and Tony McKenny, Glen Kowalik (Skipper) and Jane Monaghan (First Mate), May 2008.">A climb that was a long time in the making, over four years from when it was first mooted! The wave- cut platform that forms the base is littered with fallen blocks which attest to both the ferocious force of the wind and storm waves and to the quality of some of the rock. A helmet is strongly recommended. Start in the centre of the north face, taking the middle line with a small roof at mid-height. Climb the short wall and then follow the crack to the loose roof. Move R to a wider crack, which is climbed for a metre or so until moves can be made L over the roof and back into the crack. Continue up to the "cave" high on the R arête, step L and climb the main face to finish between the blocks of the coronet. The large block to the R seems most stable for an abseil descent.</climb>
<text id="99" class="heading3">The Fickle Finger</text>
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<climb id="96" stars="**" extra="" number="12." name="Allesandro the Dauntless" length="30m" grade="16" fa="S. Bischoff, D. Darren, Nov 2016.">A perfect micro adventure. Launching boat from Tinderbox, the first ascent was climbed in four hours car to car. The route takes the line of least resistance to the summit and is mostly of excellent rock with enjoyable climbing. The summit however is barred by some extremely dubious rock, which one must levitate past. Simul rap from top with care.<br/></climb>
</guide>
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