<guide pagesize="500" version="3">
<header access="From the Ferry terminus (timetable published daily in the Mercury) drive south on the B66 past the Neck to the road junction where the C630 turns off left to Adventure Bay. For the Lighthouse Cliffs, continue as far south as you can, via Lunawanna, to the Lighthouse. Parking is available close by (approximately 2hr from Hobart if coordinated with the car ferry). NB The gate to the lighthouse area is closed from 4.30pm till 9.30 am. For Fluted Cape and the Bruny Stack, turn left on the C630 and drive to the south end of Adventure Bay Beach and boat ramp. <br/>Park entry fees apply and passes are available from the D'Entrcasteaux Visitors Centre at Kettering, or at registration booths at the Neck and the Lighthouse Road (Mable Bay)." acknowledgement="By Tony McKenny (With additional contributions from P. Robinson, I. Snape and B. Baxter)" history="" intro="South Bruny Island has a number of stunning sea cliffs that are relatively easily accessible from Hobart. The rock is dolerite, ranging from the off-vertical cliffs of the Lighthouse area, to the soaring, and largely unclimbed, vertical corners, faces and stacks on the east side. Like all coastal cliffs, routes may need some cleaning before use but generally the rock is good. However, the top of most cliffs is loose and unconsolidated and needs particular care. As great a danger is probably wave action, particularly when a southerly is blowing, although most cliffs explored so far have at least some climbs accessible at any state of the tide. There are still many lines and crags to be explored but the drive from Hobart, and the cost of the ferry fare, may deter the masses." name="Bruny Island" rock="Vertical to slabby dolerite" sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="10-30 min" id="1" camping="" autonumber="false"/>
<text class="indentedHeader" id="2">Camping: The nearest campsite to the Lighthouse area is a couple of kilometres before the lighthouse at Great Taylors Bay, on the right down Jetty Road (signposted). Bush toilets are available but bring your own water.Accommodation was also available in the old Lighthouse Keepers Cottages but is closed till new tenants are found (Oct 2012). For Adventure Bay, there are numerouse B and Bs available, and camping at the Adventure Bay Camp Ground: accommodation can be heavily booked in the summer season.</text>
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<text class="heading2" id="4">Quiet Bay</text>
<text class="text" id="5">Follow the open ridge top through the burnt areas (2002) N. W. from the Lighthouse gate and scramble down the steep slope to the Bay. About 30 minutes.</text>
<image noPrint="true" src="Cliff on Quiet Bay.jpg" width="" id="6" height="443"/>
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="45m" name="Lest We Forget" number="" stars="*" id="7" fa="T. & J. McKenny, 25 Apr 2003.">Excellent crack climbing, death on a stick finish. Start by soloing round to the left onto the large ledge. May be difficult in a high sea. The climb follows a sinuous groove at the left hand edge of the ledge, where the kelp starts. Belay back on the dry part of the ledge. Step across to the bottom of the crack, trying to keep your feet dry. Straight up the crack to the top. Ideally you would place a bolt here and abseil off: more likely you will fight your way through vertical crud to the top, wishing fervently you were somewhere else. (It may be preferable to belay at half height to give you enough rope to get through the crud at the top).</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="15" length="70m" name="Jingerbread Haven" number="" stars="" id="8" fa="K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, 22 Apr1979.">Interesting climbing marred by loose rock. Start approximately 10m from the water, an obvious black overhang 8m above. 1. 35m. Climb the crack passing the overhang on the left. Follow the line past a huge loose block to a jam-crack (crux) which leads to a ledge on the left. 2. 35m. Climb crack for 3m, traverse right under a projecting rock to easier but steep unconsolidated ground on a vegetated slope (sounds dreadful!).</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="9">Courts Bay</text>
<text class="text" id="10">Two cliffs, one 32m high and the other 50m, have been visited here but other smaller buttresses would also probably yield some climbs. The rock is unusual for dolerite as the cliffs are all off-vertical, providing less strenuous and gentler climbing than is typical for this type of rock.</text>
<text id="100" class="heading3">Accompaniment Crag</text>
<text id="101" class="text">Access as for Curry Cliffs.<br/>Just before Curry Cliffs proper, there is a small outcrop at the cliff end of the bouldery beach. This is Accompaniment Crag. There are 3 short but worthwhile trad lines for a bit of fun. Can walk off with care - back and down left. <br/><br/> <br/><br/></text>
<climb id="102" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Poppadoms on The Side" length="" grade="15" fa="Neale Smith, Andrew Davies, Sarah Franzen , 14 July, 2020">On the left hand end of the outcrop. The left trending finger crack. Small cams and a small stopper or 2 - a little awkward to arrange. <br/> <br/></climb>
<climb id="103" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Mango Chutney" length="" grade="12" fa="Andrew Davies, Sarah Franzen, Neale Smith, 14 July 2020">The main crack line up middle of outcrop - good pro and pleasant climbing.<br/></climb>
<climb id="104" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Coconut Cream" length="" grade="11" fa="Sarah Franzen, Andrew Davies , 14 July 2020">The shallow groove on right. Pro in crack just right of the groove itself.<br/><br/></climb>
<text class="heading3" id="11">Curry Cliffs</text>
<text class="text" id="12">Walk up towards old lighthouse and head off left across the paddocks just after you pass the generator sheds, towards the new solar powered lighthouse. Cut down to the bay on the right (Courts Bay) and follow the shoreline back west to the crag. This cliff cuts the beach at right angles and features a series of shallow, gentle-angled square cut grooves. A prominent feature is a short broken ramp about 6m up, almost above the high water mark. There is a fixed abseil point above Tandoori - the old tat has been replaced by a 316 stainless steel chain in January 2016. As with all rap stations, please inspect before use. Unless absolutely needed, please refrain from leaving additional tat in other places on the top of the cliff.</text>
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<climb extra="" grade="12" length="30m" name="I'll Make Nutmeat Out of You" number="1." stars="" id="14" fa="Dave James and Matt Jones, Jan 2002.">Traverse left from Lifespice for 10m to a line beginning where there is a pale coloured rock-scar.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="11" length="25m" name="Shovels of Cumin" number="2." stars="" id="15" fa="Dave James and Matt Jones, Jan 2002.">From the high water mark, traverse left for 2 metres under an overhang and follow the cracks to the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="14" length="27m" name="Lifespice" number="3." stars="*" id="16" fa="Dave James and Matt Jones, Jan 2002.">Bridges up the open corner to the left of the ramp and finishes up the obvious hand crack that splits the top of the buttress. Good climbing.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="10" length="25m" name="Tandoori" number="4." stars="" id="17" fa="L. Wood, P. Bigg, 20 Jul 1976.">Climb to the ramp and ascend the crack that leads from its right hand end to the top of the cliff.</climb>
<text class="text" id="18">(The two short cracks to the left of Tandoori have been climbed at around 10 - 12 by Bill and Patrice Baxter, Feb. 2004.)</text>
<climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Chilli, Chilli Sauce" number="5." stars="**" id="19" fa="T. McKenny, P. Robinson, 13 Mar 2004.">The narrow arête right of Tandoori. Great position with blankish sections at the top where 'pro' can be found in the Tandoori crack immediately to the left.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="13" length="26m" name="Tiqa" number="6." stars="" id="20" fa="L. Wood, P. Bigg, 20 Aug 1976.">The open groove immediately to the right.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="26m" name="Steamed Rice" number="7." stars="***" id="21" fa="I. Snape, C. Cole, 16 Jun 2001.">The wide arête on the right. Classy climbing.</climb>
<text class="text" id="22">The next climb is the open book corner (about 1.5m wide).</text>
<climb extra="" grade="12" length="22m" name="1.5 Groove" number="8." stars="" id="23" fa="C. (Basil) Rathbone, C Strang, 28 Jun 1976.">Climbs the wide corner, bridging to the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="14" length="22m" name="Annapurna Special" number="" stars="*" id="24" fa="J. Mckenny, T. Meldrum &. T. McKenny, 16 Dec 2002.">Climbs the twin cracks in the left hand side of the corner to the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="12" length="22m" name="Shish Kebab" number="9." stars="" id="25" fa="L. Wood, P. Bigg, 20 Jul 1976.">A narrow groove immediately to the right of the 1.5m Groove.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="12" length="22m" name="Lassie" number="10." stars="" id="26" fa="T. McKenny, V. Van de Vusse, P. Robinson, 13 Mar 2004.">The dirty-looking crack on the right, which is surprisingly not too bad a climb.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="12" length="22m" name="Nosy Goreng" number="11." stars="" id="27" fa="P. Robinson, C Rathbone, 19 May 1979.">Left of "Shezan" (the prominent V groove) is a wide shallow 'chimney'. The groove on the nose immediately left of this, initially very loose but has been cleaned.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="12" length="22m" name="Stackless" number="12." stars="" id="28" fa="P. Robinson, T. McKenny, 13 Mar 2004.">The crack on the right side of the shallow chimney, immediately left of Shezan.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="15" length="20m" name="Shezan" number="13." stars="" id="29" fa="L. Wood, P. Bigg, 20 Jul 1976.">The classic V groove with an obvious hand jam crack running through an area of red rock.</climb>
<climb id="88" stars="" extra="" number="14" name="Piquance" length="10" grade="16" fa="D. James, K Malakoff, 05/04/2014">Thin but widening crack several metres up hill and right of Shezan, on right wall of small alcove. Using second thin crack on right for assistance.<br/></climb>
<text class="text" id="30">The ridge of Curry Cliff leads down to a point where the following small climb is located. Either traverse round over the water from Lifespice, or climb one of the standard routes and scramble down from above. The following climb is to the right of the small gulch.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="15" length="9m" name="Skullduggery" number="" stars="" id="31" fa="Dave James and Matt Jones, Apr 2002.">At the lefthand of the ledge is a left facing corner and leaning hand crack. A touch awkward.</climb>
<text class="text" id="32">The Bench. Between the Curry Cliff and the High Court Cliff are two small buttresses; the second, 'The Bench', nearer the big cliff has two routes. Descend to the left via a large block.</text>
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<climb extra="" grade="15" length="15m" name="Lets Get Personal" number="1." stars="" id="33" fa="Dave James and Rhiannon Arkins, Apr 2001.">The corner nearest the sea. The sloping corner leading to a colourful face then belay on prow.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="6" length="14m" name="Guilty Your Honour" number="2." stars="" id="34" fa="Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.">The corner up and immediatly right of LGP.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="35">High Court Cliff</text>
<text class="text" id="36">Situated 5-10 minutes walk south of the lighthouse. From the lighthouse, follow the track down toward Courts Island for a hundred metres and then head diagonally left to a steep bushy gully leading down to the base of the crag. Alternatively (and probably better), from the top of the gully follow the cliff top round to the right and down through bushes to a cairn. Descend via a 50-metre abseil from some apparently solid boulders above Ocean Highway. The rest of the cliff top is unsafe.</text>
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<climb extra="" grade="18" length="50m" name="All in Good Tide" number="1." stars="***" id="39" fa="P. Robinson, S. Scott, 5 Feb 2004.">On the waters edge, a sky rocketing 50-metre pitch, a classic, must do, climb. Climb the two thin cracks, approx. one metre apart, in the open corner. Take plenty of small/medium cams and nuts... it's a long way!</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="50m" name="It's All in the Mind" number="2." stars="**" id="40" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, 29 Oct 2006.">The arête immediately right of "All in Good Tide" and left of Ocean Highway. A direct line straight up the buttress. Atmospheric, a bumper climb.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="14" length="50m" name="Ocean Highway" number="3." stars="*" id="41" fa="C. Rathbone, P. Robinson, 19 May1979.">The next corner crack to the right. A fine direct crack line.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Out of the Shadow" number="4." stars="" id="42" fa="P. Robinson, M. Steane, 14 Apr 1979.">1.5m right of Ocean Highway, the obvious corner crack. Move onto the buttress at the very top to avoid the vegetation.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="14" length="50m" name="Shadow Variant" number="5." stars="" id="43" fa="M. Steane, P. Robinson, 13 Apr 1979.">Approximately two thirds of the way up Out of the Shadow, step right and follow next line up loose blocks to the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="50m" name="Anty-Falaxis" number="6." stars="*" id="44" fa="S. Scott, P. Robinson, 5 Feb 2004.">Next line right, twin cracks followed by a long intimidating V-corner, which is climbed with help from the crack on the left.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Meteor Showers" number="" stars="*" id="45" fa="P.Robinson, C.Hewer, K.Robinson, 21 Mar 2009.">Start R of Anty-Falaxis at twin cracks. Climb the wall between the cracks to a ledge, up the V-corner to a thin crack and carefully to the top. The climb is followed by a 10m scramble.(i.e. 60m total). Like most of the routes here, it is probably best to belay to a fixed rope left before the climb, as there are few anchors at the top of the cliff.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Philadelphia Sidewalk" number="7." stars="" id="46" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Oct 1978.">At the bottom of the grassy slope is a large blankish section of the cliff with three thin cracks. Climbs the obvious line to the L of these, bridging up a groove.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="16" length="50m" name="Quintessence" number="8." stars="***" id="47" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, C. Hewer, 16 Mar 2008.">The left of the three thin lines. Nice clean line, position and climb.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="18" length="50m" name="Philadelphia Freeway" number="9." stars="**" id="48" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Oct 1978.">Up the centre of the three cracks. Turn the bush a few metres from the top by stepping R into the next line. A good looking line.</climb>
<climb id="87" stars="*" extra="" number="" name="Revival of the Fittest" length="50m" grade="15" fa="P.Robinson, C.Rathbone 4/2013">The thin crack R of Philadelphia Freeway (PF).<br/>Harder at the start. High up, to avoid grass in the corner, move L onto the wall and climb the crack immediately R of PF.<br/>As with all climbs on this cliff, take care with loose rock at the top.<br/></climb>
<climb extra="" grade="15" length="40m" name="Wish You Were Here" number="10." stars="" id="49" fa="M. Steane, P. Robinson, 14 Apr 1979.">Approximately 8m uphill from the foot of the mud slope are twin cracks, 60cm apart, up a corner. When the cracks run out, move onto the left buttress.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="12" length="40m" name="Easter Aftermath" number="11." stars="" id="50" fa="P. Robinson, M. Steane, 14 Apr 1979.">Further up the hill (10m) are two open "chimneys". The route takes the left-hand one. Belay at base of the crack on the left, beneath the chimney. Up the crack for 10m to grassy ledge, then bridge up chimney to exit past bush at top.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="51">Courts Island</text>
<text class="text" id="52">A short walk down the ridge southwest from the Lighthouse leads to the causeway across to Courts Island, which hosts a mutton-bird rookery. At low tide you can walk or wade across (about 50m) but difficulty may be experienced at high tide or in rough sea. Check at the Keepers Cottage if in doubt.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="53">East Cliff</text>
<text class="text" id="54">After crossing the causeway walk south (left) along the shoreline towards the cliffs. Approximately 100m from where the cliffs meet the sea is an obvious short, clean line consisting of twin cracks. Looks harder than it is!</text>
<climb extra="" grade="12" length="60m" name="Belay in the Burrow" number="" stars="" id="55" fa="P. Robinson, K Bischoff , 21 Apr 1979.">1. 20m. Up twin cracks to belay on ledge above jammed blocks. 2. 40m. Follow broken rock and vegetated slope to top. No belay except for mutton-bird burrows. Use a threaded sling or rope. (May be better to abseil from top of first pitch).</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="56">Ocean Buttress</text>
<text class="text" id="57">Walk over to the far southern tip of the Island. On the southeast side of the tip, above a deep gulch, are some impressive looking cliffs, rising from a shore platform. The routes may be best viewed from the N E side of the gulch. Probably best to abseil down the loose choss from the very end of the point to the wavecut platform and then scramble back round to the east towards the gulch, preferably at low tide and/or calm sea.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="12" length="45m" name="Shearwater" number="" stars="*" id="58" fa="P. Robinson, K. Bischoff 21 Apr 1979. (Probably the line of Canute climbed by J. McKenny, T. McKenny 16 Dec 2002)">Walk round shelf into the gulch to a small but distinct triangular roof at about 3 m, at the widest point of the shelf, just before it ends. The climb starts 2m to the left, up the obvious crack. Bridge and jam to the top, passing a ledge on the left at half height.</climb>
<text class="text" id="59">The cliffs on the seaward side north of the gulch are reached by abseil to a shore platform (facing N E)</text>
<climb extra="" grade="15" length="40m" name="Tidal Temerity" number="" stars="" id="60" fa="C. Rathbone, P. Robinson, J. Wills-Johnson, K. Bischoff, 19 May 1979.">Follow a clean narrow corner for 30m to the ledge. The crack closes near the top. From the ledge climb easily to the top.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="61">East Coast</text>
<text class="text" id="62">The eastern side of South Bruny Island is fringed by spectacular, massive, dolerite sea cliffs, rising up to 200m high. The area is extremely exposed to the wind and waves of the Tasman Sea and access is generally difficult. Two areas have been climbed on to date but there is massive potential for future exploration.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="63">Fluted Cape</text>
<text class="text" id="64">Take the turn off to Adventure Bay (C630) to reach Fluted Cape. The walking track begins at East Cove, the southern most part of Adventure Bay Beach. There is free camping at Neck Beach, Cloudy Bay and Jetty Beach, or you can pay to camp at the Adventure Bay Holiday Village.</text>
<text class="text" id="65">Park entry fees apply and passes are available from the D'Entrcasteaux Visitors Centre at Kettering, or at registration booths at the Neck and the Lighthouse Road (Mable Bay).</text>
<text class="text" id="66">Follow the Grass Point track to the open grassland at the end of the point (ignore the first sign you pass on the R to Fluted Cape) before turning back south to climb steeply up past the cliff tops (signposted).</text>
<text class="text" id="67">On the way up, heading south and after passing a solitary pillar on the left, there is a steep dirty descent gully about 100m before the big Parched Pillar cliff. The surrounding cliffs are vertical and up to 150 m high and there are many excellent lines here, though the rock is often suspect. Inspection on abseil is advised.</text>
<text class="text" id="68">These descriptions are taken from the first ascent descriptions.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Quick Drink" number="" stars="" id="69" fa="I. Snape, C. Cole, 15 Jun 2001.">Good clean finger crack on the RHS of the descent gully (facing the cliff).</climb>
<text class="text" id="70">Further round, there are a series of prominent lines that cut the main wall. Two of these lines, close together, run up the centre of the wall. With the removal of much loose rock, the face has yielded two interesting and pleasant excursions up this spectacular face.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="18" length="100m" name="Bombs Away Dreambaby" number="" stars="**" id="71" fa="R. MacMahon, N. Deka, Nov 1989.">Takes the LH of the two lines. The scene of a massive amount of cleaning to unearth the route. Well-protected and consistent throughout its length. Scramble up to the base of the line and start at the base of a LH facing corner with a handcrack about 10m high with a small roof halfway up the corner. 1. 35m. Up to the top of the corner, step R onto a ledge, straight up the crack above and then bridge and jam up the cracks above to belay at the base of the groove where the crack appears to widen. 2. 40m. Straight up the crack (not as wide as it appears). Continue through the roof with the chockstone and then up the crack past the ledges to belay above the last roof which is adjacent to a tree. 3. 50m. Trend L and meander towards the top of the cliff.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="100m" name="Thin as a Lark's Skull" number="" stars="" id="72" fa="L. Closs, D. Bowman, 1978.">The route follows the right hand line. Start by scrambling across at the foot of the wall to a small corner directly below the line. 1. 20m. Move left, then right over large angular blocks to a substantial ledge with a small bush at the base of a square cut cleft capped by a large overhang. 2. 20m. Hand jam up crack in left corner of cleft in roof. Move right and (crux) cross the overhang. Belay after a further 3m. 3. 25m. Continue up the obvious groove/chimney. Exit left at the top to scrubby ledge at the base of a deep square cut gully. 4. 20m. Ascend gully - more difficult than it appears. 5. 15m. Climb up to sloping roof on left. Cross wall below the roof to very exposed position on rib. Climb crack to top (Aid used on first ascent to cross wall, subsequently freed.)</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="13" length="54m" name="Casuarina Chimney" number="" stars="" id="73" fa=" L.J. Wood, A. Bowden, 4 Aug 1975.">Gain access to the base of the obvious cliff line by traversing south over a steep ramp of bush and broken rock. Pass under the main wall, an inset section of more broken rock and a vague rib running up to a prominent pinnacle. Ascend left (south) of the rib to the base of the cliff line. The route is about 10m left of the crack which separates the pinnacle from the main cliff. 1. 35m. Climb the chimney over a chock stone and an overhang to a large ledge. 2. 20m. Climb the obvious crack to top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="139m" name="Blowfly" number="" stars="" id="74" fa="L.J. Wood, A. Bowden, 1 Oct 1975. FFA: L. Closs, D. Bowman, L. Woods, 1975.">Traverse across scrubby ground at the base of the main wall. To the left of the main wall is a section of more broken rock with some vegetation on it. Start near the base of the crack which runs up the right hand side of a clean slab. There is a bush (probably a massive tree by now!) at the base of the crack. 1. 23m. Reach the crack from the left. Climb the crack to a step right onto the corner. Move round the corner and up to a scrubby gully to a ledge at the top of the crack. 2. 23m. Traverse left past a small projecting flake and large tree into a corner with a jammed block below a small overhang. Climb the corner and obvious continuation of the line to a stance behind a large detached block. 3. 20m. Climb the chimney to an awkward overhang at about 13m and the continuation of the line to a stance at the base of a corner with twin cracks. 4. 33m. Move right into a deep chimney, climbing the right wall, past several large trees to a step left onto a large jammed block. 5. 20m. Ascend a couple of metres to an awkward bulge and move up to the right hand crack (a sling was used for aid on FA)until a step right into a crack is possible. Climb this to two small trees at the right hand end of a sloping slab. 6. 20m. Cross the slab to a large ledge and ascend the obvious line at the back of the ledge to the top of the cliff.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="15" length="143m" name="Parched Pinnacle" number="" stars="" id="75" fa=" L.J. Wood, P. Robinson, 21 Dec 1976.">"Varied climbing and exhilarating situations in magnificent surroundings" Start at the base of Blowfly. Pitches 1,2 and 3 are shared with Blowfly but take a more direct line. 1. 23m. Climb the crack in the slab direct to a ledge with a large tree. 2. 20m. Move left to a corner with a jammed block on top. 3. 23m. Up the continuation of the line past an overhang to a stance at the base of a square cut corner. 4. 27m. Crux. Jam to the top of the corner and move up diagonally left to the gap at the base of the pinnacle. 5. 17m. Chimney up between the pinnacle and the main face until the two merge. Flick a nut into the continuation of the line above and use this to gain the gap at the base of the detached portion of the pinnacle. Easily to the top of the pinnacle. 6. 13m. Cross to the main face and move diagonally right over a few loose blocks. Turn the corner, step down and climb a finger crack to a large ledge. 7. 20m. Finish up the obvious line at the rear of the ledge.</climb>
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<climb>75</climb>
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<text class="text" id="76">The next two routes are on an even more obscure buttress which is about 30mins. walk south of the main cliff. The buttress is just before the next major cliff (unclimbed) along the coast. On the face of the buttress are two opposing corner cracks, the one on the R ending at a roof at about 20m.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="30m" name="Sohrab" number="" stars="*" id="77" fa="N. Deka, D. Stephenson, Sep 1989.">Takes the LH line. Climb the crack for 6m, through a small roof and into a shallow corner. Up this until it ends, step L and up crack to finish.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="20" length="30m" name="Rustum" number="" stars="" id="78" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Sep 1989.">The RH line. A bold route in the upper reaches. Climb the hand-crack in the corner up to the roof. Further L above the roof there is a crack to gain (crux) which is then followed to the top.</climb>
<text class="text" id="79">Details of the following routes are not yet known but further information would be gratefully received!</text>
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Aquabat" number="" stars="" id="80" fa="S. Parsons, D. Bowman, R. Wells, 1978.">Details unknown.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Vanity" number="" stars="" id="81" fa="S. Parsons and P. Bigg, 1978.">Starts near Aquabat, crosses this line to a 20m traverse, under clinging to difficult off-width hand crack up wall above.</climb>
<image id="95" src="The Fickle Finger.png" height="900" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="The Fickle Finger" legendx="10" legendy="11">
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<legend>
<climb>94</climb>
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<text class="heading2" id="82">The Bruny Stacks</text>
<text id="98" class="text">Adventure climbing doesn't come any better than this!<br/>Access to the stacks is difficult and only possible when there is little or no swell. From the Adventure Bay launch ramp, set a course north round Penguin Island and Green Point and then south heading past Fluted Cape towards Cape Connella. The Stacks are located about 6 km down the coast (GR 307966) and a landing can be made at the base on either side, depending on the prevailing swell. However, there is little shelter and no mooring. Obviously, given this remote location, and the notoriously changeable weather, climbers should be prepared for a prolonged stay in case they are marooned (!), and should consider taking radios/emergency beacons.</text>
<text id="97" class="heading3">The Monument</text>
<image noPrint="false" src="Brunystack.jpg" width="" id="83" height="478">
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<text class="text" id="84">Photo of Monument is courtesy of Joe Shemesh and Bruny Island Charters.</text>
<text class="text" id="85">The Monument, rearing out of the sea and topped by a coronet of blocks, is a spectacular finger of rock, about 45m high and apparently precariously balanced. Opposite on the mainland is the smaller pillar, the Fickle Finger (of Fate).</text>
<climb extra="" grade="16" length="32m" name="Veni Vidi Vici" number="" stars="**" id="86" fa="Phil Robinson and Tony McKenny, Glen Kowalik (Skipper) and Jane Monaghan (First Mate), May 2008.">A climb that was a long time in the making, over four years from when it was first mooted! The wave- cut platform that forms the base is littered with fallen blocks which attest to both the ferocious force of the wind and storm waves and to the quality of some of the rock. A helmet is strongly recommended. Start in the centre of the north face, taking the middle line with a small roof at mid-height. Climb the short wall and then follow the crack to the loose roof. Move R to a wider crack, which is climbed for a metre or so until moves can be made L over the roof and back into the crack. Continue up to the "cave" high on the R arête, step L and climb the main face to finish between the blocks of the coronet. The large block to the R seems most stable for an abseil descent.</climb>
<text id="99" class="heading3">The Fickle Finger</text>
<climb id="96" stars="**" extra="" number="" name="Allesandro the Dauntless" length="30m" grade="16" fa="S. Bischoff, D. Darren, Nov 2016.">A perfect micro adventure. Launching boat from Tinderbox, the first ascent was climbed in four hours car to car. The route takes the line of least resistance to the summit and is mostly of excellent rock with enjoyable climbing. The summit however is barred by some extremely dubious rock, which one must levitate past. Simul rap from top with care.<br/></climb>
</guide>
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